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About sheperd80

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  • Woodworking Interests
    Carpentry, cabinetry, furniture, art, design, etc.

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  1. A few coats of an oil-based poly OR shellac will give you a durable, beatiful finish. Theres no reason to layer up all these finishes. Arm r Seal and Minwax Wiping Poly are practically foolproof for amazing results on walnut and have both proven quite durable for me. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
  2. Ill answer this from looking at my own work. I can see "amateur" in the design of most of my early pieces. Strange proportions, unnecessary embelishments, bad choices in grain selection and orientation. Small subtles misses that dont really look that bad individually, but detract from that "purity" i guess, that i wanna see in a piece of fine furniture. Also, any form of tooling marks like blade or router burn, sanding scratches, etc. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
  3. This is why i dont use hard maple for cabinet doors anymore. All wood does it but hard maple is the worst in my experience Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
  4. sheperd80


    Glad to see WTO back on tapatalk. Its a goofy app, but its the only way i really browse forums. Thanks to everyone who contributes! Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
  5. Go look at the tables at most steak houses. A row of boards glued-up with either end grain showing or a flat mitered frame surrounding it. Then its screwed to a steel base, and they dump epoxy on it. Thats commercial work for ya. I bet they were all built in a day with nothing but a tablesaw, chopsaw and a few clamps. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
  6. Looks good, keep em comin! Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
  7. Id say use brad nails and glue if youre not going for super fine cabinetry. At the quantity youre doing it could be a huge time saver. Make a simple square-up jig to keep parts square while nailing and youll fly through em. I just did about 20 drawers for a customers home with locking rabbets and dadoed in bottoms. It went pretty fast because once i setup the tools the parts batched out quickly. The locking rabbets and dados make glue up pretty easy, needing only a few clamps per drawer. But at 40 drawers this may slow you down significantly. I used premade drawer-side material from
  8. Gonna have to agree with the nay sayers. Sure it has that modern/rustic look people seem to like right now but its an all around poor design from stem to stern. It wouldnt take long for that to be a wiggly sagging mess unless theres ALOT of hidden steel. And even then... Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
  9. It looks like a somewhat involved build with the lower shelf construction, corbels and legs. At a glance i could see easily charging 1500 or more. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
  10. I know this isnt exactly constructive input, but i just wanted to go on record as probably the only person who didnt like having the hose and cord in this sleeve at all. I used it for about a month and took it back off. The sleave makes it pretty stiff. Sure its snags a little less but i still found myself having to divert the hose in one way or another, and position the vac right for each operation. And be sure to leave enough plug-it cord slack at the tool end. Certain tools like the OF1010 with the edge guide style dust catcher require a ton of extra cord to reach the end of the router
  11. This^ I dont build from other peoples plans, but if i did i would never just start cutting stuff to the listed dimensions. Especially not drawer fronts! Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
  12. You could always buy a bandsaw from home depot and return it when youre done. Normally i wouldnt recommend abusing a stores return policy, but i have no respect for home depot. They are the walmart of home improvement stores and deserve to be taken advantage of. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
  13. Most lacquers are pretty easy to get great looking results quickly. Imo its a great choice for production environments where quick turn arounds are essential. If youre spraying 2 coats on 50 cabinet doors in a spray booth, a few minutes to clean your guns is trivial. But if youre a woodworker in a small shop making a single piece of furniture it may not be worth it for you to deal with the fumes and the cleanup. For small trinkets i love using a good ol' rattle can lacquer finish. Beyond that it hasnt been worth it for me yet. Especially here in California where its getting harder and ha
  14. Congrats on succesfully invading the garage! I built basically the same thing youre talking about. The entire base is a cabinet. One side is all drawers that hold all my tablesaw accessories (inserts, miter guages, push sticks, featherboards etc) and a few drawers full of hand tools. I dont have a real woodworking workbench so this puts all the hand tools near my vise and hand tooling shop bench. The other side is shallow shelves that hold router table accessories and router bits (for the tablesaw extension router table) and glue-up related items. Its not the ideal setup but with my
  15. There are cases where this is true. Like you, i dont always agree with doing things the prescribed "right way" just because its what people say is right. But in this case it just doesnt make sense to do it that way. Were constraining our design sense logically here. Sure, the drawer will hold. So would screws through the face, or glued rabbets. But using an elaborate joinery technique in a backwards configuration like this just has no value imo, in fact it devalues the work. I get the discussion youre wanting to have, but this is not a good example. The thing about woodworking is i