sheperd80

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Everything posted by sheperd80

  1. A few coats of an oil-based poly OR shellac will give you a durable, beatiful finish. Theres no reason to layer up all these finishes. Arm r Seal and Minwax Wiping Poly are practically foolproof for amazing results on walnut and have both proven quite durable for me. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
  2. Ill answer this from looking at my own work. I can see "amateur" in the design of most of my early pieces. Strange proportions, unnecessary embelishments, bad choices in grain selection and orientation. Small subtles misses that dont really look that bad individually, but detract from that "purity" i guess, that i wanna see in a piece of fine furniture. Also, any form of tooling marks like blade or router burn, sanding scratches, etc. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
  3. This is why i dont use hard maple for cabinet doors anymore. All wood does it but hard maple is the worst in my experience Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
  4. Go look at the tables at most steak houses. A row of boards glued-up with either end grain showing or a flat mitered frame surrounding it. Then its screwed to a steel base, and they dump epoxy on it. Thats commercial work for ya. I bet they were all built in a day with nothing but a tablesaw, chopsaw and a few clamps. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
  5. Looks good, keep em comin! Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
  6. Id say use brad nails and glue if youre not going for super fine cabinetry. At the quantity youre doing it could be a huge time saver. Make a simple square-up jig to keep parts square while nailing and youll fly through em. I just did about 20 drawers for a customers home with locking rabbets and dadoed in bottoms. It went pretty fast because once i setup the tools the parts batched out quickly. The locking rabbets and dados make glue up pretty easy, needing only a few clamps per drawer. But at 40 drawers this may slow you down significantly. I used premade drawer-side material from my hardwood dealer. Its prefinished white birch, which comes 12" or 8" wide with 2 finished edges. In most cases you can rip the strips in half for 2 pieces with a finished top edge. It makes a pretty nice cabinet grade drawer and saves alot of time. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
  7. Gonna have to agree with the nay sayers. Sure it has that modern/rustic look people seem to like right now but its an all around poor design from stem to stern. It wouldnt take long for that to be a wiggly sagging mess unless theres ALOT of hidden steel. And even then... Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
  8. It looks like a somewhat involved build with the lower shelf construction, corbels and legs. At a glance i could see easily charging 1500 or more. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
  9. I know this isnt exactly constructive input, but i just wanted to go on record as probably the only person who didnt like having the hose and cord in this sleeve at all. I used it for about a month and took it back off. The sleave makes it pretty stiff. Sure its snags a little less but i still found myself having to divert the hose in one way or another, and position the vac right for each operation. And be sure to leave enough plug-it cord slack at the tool end. Certain tools like the OF1010 with the edge guide style dust catcher require a ton of extra cord to reach the end of the router handle. And this extra length was annoying on other tools. Also if youre just using youre CT as a vacuum, the cord is always there hanging around. I just have a few velcro straps holding them together now which are easily removed or adjusted for different uses. My 2 cents. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
  10. This^ I dont build from other peoples plans, but if i did i would never just start cutting stuff to the listed dimensions. Especially not drawer fronts! Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
  11. You could always buy a bandsaw from home depot and return it when youre done. Normally i wouldnt recommend abusing a stores return policy, but i have no respect for home depot. They are the walmart of home improvement stores and deserve to be taken advantage of. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
  12. Most lacquers are pretty easy to get great looking results quickly. Imo its a great choice for production environments where quick turn arounds are essential. If youre spraying 2 coats on 50 cabinet doors in a spray booth, a few minutes to clean your guns is trivial. But if youre a woodworker in a small shop making a single piece of furniture it may not be worth it for you to deal with the fumes and the cleanup. For small trinkets i love using a good ol' rattle can lacquer finish. Beyond that it hasnt been worth it for me yet. Especially here in California where its getting harder and harder to find. Researching on the web may lead to greater headaches than youll get from the lacquer itself. So many types, each with loyal advocates claiming their choice is the best. As mentioned above, youre just gonna have to try some. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
  13. Congrats on succesfully invading the garage! I built basically the same thing youre talking about. The entire base is a cabinet. One side is all drawers that hold all my tablesaw accessories (inserts, miter guages, push sticks, featherboards etc) and a few drawers full of hand tools. I dont have a real woodworking workbench so this puts all the hand tools near my vise and hand tooling shop bench. The other side is shallow shelves that hold router table accessories and router bits (for the tablesaw extension router table) and glue-up related items. Its not the ideal setup but with my limited space it puts what i need right where i need it. Eventually when i build a roubo type bench ill ditch the hand tool drawers for something else. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
  14. There are cases where this is true. Like you, i dont always agree with doing things the prescribed "right way" just because its what people say is right. But in this case it just doesnt make sense to do it that way. Were constraining our design sense logically here. Sure, the drawer will hold. So would screws through the face, or glued rabbets. But using an elaborate joinery technique in a backwards configuration like this just has no value imo, in fact it devalues the work. I get the discussion youre wanting to have, but this is not a good example. The thing about woodworking is its been mastered for millenia, so it can be difficult (not impossible) to poke holes in the established thinking, especially regarding joinery. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
  15. Thanks for the feedback Eric. I considered doing my most recent piece that way but it has alot of midfield dominoed 18" long butt-joints and would've been a pain to mask. Thankfully ARS is pretty forgiving so with careful application, sanding the finished case hasnt been too terrible. Have fun with your adventures in finishing! If you think shellac is a wormhole just wait until you get into the lacquers. Im sure youll enjoy the fast dry times of both after being a varnish guy. Start to finished finish in the same day, whaaaaa?!?!? That said, ive never seen a finish that makes me wanna eat the furniture like ARS does. Novice or not, it makes walnut look so delicious. But i see your point. You have plateau'd and need new challenges, good on ya. Share your screw ups here as you go! Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
  16. Shellac, eh? Its an interesting finish, aside from using it like primer ive only top coated with it a few times and found it more resilient than people seem to think. Recently discovered ARS though and am thoroughly impressed. Did u mask off the legs were they meet the foot and headboard rails, or just finish right on over it? And if its all finished are you just relying on the dominoes for strength or perhaps using epoxy instead of wood glue? Sorry for the 20 questions. This is an area that causes me issues. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
  17. Excellent in every aspect Eric, a true heirloom. Can you elaborate on the finish? What product? Did you prefinish any of it? Sorry if these were answered and i missed it. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
  18. I had trouble with this recently too, but with walnut. I hand picked some great looking rough boards and planed them down only to find that the sapwood "edges" i saw in the rough were actually 3" wide bands just below the surface. My only advice is look closely including the ends, analyzing whats going on with the grain to the best of your ability. And buy more than you need for a project. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
  19. Oh man thanks for the throwback! Best scene from that movie. "It was a nightmare." Lmao. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
  20. Wow beautiful piece, glad it got bumped. Nice work brian! Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
  21. Nice work as always Shane, this is gonna be a great piece! A clock has always been on my "maybe someday" list. Gotta love the 1010, such a versatile tool. I just wish it had the quick-connect base inserts like the 1400. You should make more vids. Your builds are always fast and high quality. And im pretty sure having way too much Festool is always a real crowd pleaser, just ask Mark 🤔. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
  22. @OP looks great i like the detail on the treads. The posts look great too. You just need to put some cap on that base. @Eric Fwiw the floor guys around here do alot of walnut floors and stairs but theyre almost always distressed. Youre probably okay if they dont see hard use and heels but id personally go with something harder. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
  23. Ive had mine about 2 yrs and had no problems. It works excellent on the jointer, planer, spindle sander and router table (depending on the operation). With no over the blade assistance its pretty weak on the tablesaw, but i cant rly fault the machine for that. The filter bag is a weak point but works until u can get a real filter for it. And of course a separator of some sort would greatly improve the whole system. After about a week of moving hoses around to your tools, youll want ducting. Its easy to install and not terribly expensive if you lay it out strategically. Overall i'd say its good. Its one of the few woodworking tools you can go cheap on and just upgrade over time. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
  24. Thats diabolical micks. Just curious, but why not just use the full piece for hardwood fronts? Too unstable in that vertical orientation? Anyway, beautiful work as usual.
  25. Lmao... Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk