Marcus Hand

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    General woodworking

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  1. Last year I bought a used Powermatic dust collector (it is the 3HP dual cannister one). I hooked it into my existing 4 inch PVC pipe system to get it up and running. It has been ok, but as you can imagine, not great. I’ve just gotten around to upgrading to 6 inch pipe. I’m trying to avoid using flex hose as much as possible. Ideally, I will only need to use it at the very end of each run, when I connect to the machines. The problem is that the footprint of the DC is already pretty big and if I run hard pipe right up to the DC, it makes the footprint even bigger. What I would like to do is run hard pipe down the wall and then have about a 2-3 foot section of flex hose that connects the pipe to the DC. How bad will this hurt the DC performance? Should I just figure out a way to run the pipe all the way to the DC?
  2. Thanks for all the help. In a related question, what is the proper way to refer to this kind of construction? I see it advertised as "butcher block", I always thought butcher block was end grain pointing up.
  3. The main length of the desk is 74" x 28". The small top is 30" x 24". The top is 2" thick cherry that is built edge grain (like a classic workbench top). The legs are 3" thick oak and the rails are 1" thick by 3" oak. Some good advice here.
  4. My son asked me to build him a desk. Based on what he has shown me that he likes, I created this rough design. I've already constructed the top, which is 2" thick edge-grain construction. I'm starting on the base and am now wondering if I need an apron. With the double rails, I didn't think I would need one, but now I'm doubting. Am I asking for trouble?
  5. Good point! I completely forgot about that. Some air probably gets in from the door not being air-tight, but not enough. I'll drill some holes to let more through.
  6. I bought a used JesseEm router table about a year ago. I couldn't stand to see all the wasted space!
  7. It has been great, much better than I was even hoping for. I'm in Florida and August is the worst month here. Last year at this time, it was nearly impossible to work out in the shop, except really early in the morning or late at night. Yesterday, it was in the 90's and super humid here. I came home from work at 4:00 and walked into a 77 degree shop. My 12 yr old daughter has started coming out in the shop and making things. She made a comment to my wife about how nice it was and that now that there is AC. That definitely made it worth it! My wife has been watching and comparing the electric cost to last year after the mini split and so far we haven't seen a noticeable difference.
  8. Thanks! I struggled with the drawers more than anything. The undermount slides seemed to have a lot of play in them at first and that was giving me headaches. Next time I think I might try the blum slides. They are pricey, though.
  9. Each LED reel has an end that has a female connection that will connect right to a transformer. I cut these off all but one of the reels, since I was stringing them all together. I also bought a cheap remote and it has a switch that goes between the transformer and the female LED connection. I only had to worry about dealing with the 22/2 wire connecting up the strips. It took me a few tries to get the hang of soldering (I had only soldered one thing before this), but I found it to be really fun. Now I want to put these lights everywhere! I also found that the sticking power of the LED strips wasn't always great. So I ended up putting the heavy duty 3M double sided tape on each end of each strip. That stuff holds really well.
  10. Yeah, the sections are all anchored to each other. I went from underneath on the bottom cabinets and connected heavy screws from the cabinets to the bookcases. Then I have some heavy duty L-brackets that I anchored to the studs, just in case. They probably aren't needed, but I get nervous thinking of wife being on the ladder.
  11. For the wiring, I bought 16 foot roles from Amazon (I think they were only $11 a role). They are made to be cut every 2 feet or so. I cut them into strips that fit on the back of the shelf overhang. To connect the individual strips, I soldered them together with 22 gauge wire. I ran the wire through a small hole between each shelf. On the ends, I drilled a hole in the bottom of the shelf to run down to the next level of shelves. They are all end up being connected together in one REALLY long line that gets connected to one plug. I think it took me about 3 nights to do it. Once I got the hang of soldering, it went fast. It probably took me 75% of the time to do the first set of shelves. My wife writes historical romance. Here is her latest book: She's actually working on a book where the hero is going to be a woodworker! ha!
  12. I did need to run a 240V. There are 120V units, but I think they only go up to 12000 BTU and they also still require a dedicated circuit. My garage doors are metal and face almost directly west. I did insulate them and that did make a big difference. Nothing else is insulated. I am also thinking about insulating the attic, but so far, I've been really happy with it. For the vacuum part, you will need a vacuum and a manifold gauge. For the vacuum, it needs to be R410a compatible. I bought the vacuum and gauge as a set. This is the one I got: I was most worried about the evacuation part, but it was actually one of the easiest parts. When you read about a lot of the DIY installs folks do, they seem to have the most trouble with drilling the hole in the wall and mounting the indoor unit. For woodworkers, this is probably one of the easier parts, since we know how to drill holes.
  13. The $1400 was just labor. If it had been everything, or even 2000, I would have let them do it.
  14. Thought I would follow-up on this. I bought the Pioneer 18000 BTU and installed it. It took the better part of two days to install, but it was not hard to do. Buying the unit and all necessary electrical connections and vacuum pump was right at $1200. The one quote I was able to get for installing it was $1400. Happy I did it myself and the difference in the shop is incredible. It was 97 degrees in the shop on the day I was installing it. Now I am woodworking in a "cool" 78 degrees! Here are a couple pictures of finished installation. I still need to go back and touch up paint, etc.
  15. My wife writes novels and this year her 10th book was published. She asked if I could build her a bookcase with a sliding ladder. I picked up the Rockler ladder kit when it was on sale and started building this monster at the beginning of the year. It feels like it took forever and I'm so happy to be done with it and moving onto the next (smaller) project. It was built where it looks sort of like a built-in, but it is stand-alone. She does not want to leave it when we move next. Some details: Baltic birch plywood with poplar hardwood I built it in 6 pieces and then moved those into the house. It can be disassembled relatively easily. It is 12 feet wide by 9 feet high. Painted to match the rooms trim with the back beadboard painted to match the wall. I ended up spraying latex using my Earlex 5500. I was expecting disaster, but it worked out so much better than expected. I realize that HVLPs aren't made for this, but what I discovered through research is that some latex paints (partically 100% acrylic) spray pretty well. The paint was the Sherwin Williams Pro Classic. Can't say enough good things about the Earlex. Undermount drawer slides. First time installing them for me and what a pain. Not sure I will ever use them again. I did not buy the Blum ones because of cost, but I also didn't get the absolute cheapos. The LED lights were really cool and I got to work on my soldering technique (A LOT!). Now I want to put these up in the kitchen. My wife is super happy with and as always a lot of good advice came from reading this forum.