Marcus Hand

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Everything posted by Marcus Hand

  1. Last year I bought a used Powermatic dust collector (it is the 3HP dual cannister one). I hooked it into my existing 4 inch PVC pipe system to get it up and running. It has been ok, but as you can imagine, not great. I’ve just gotten around to upgrading to 6 inch pipe. I’m trying to avoid using flex hose as much as possible. Ideally, I will only need to use it at the very end of each run, when I connect to the machines. The problem is that the footprint of the DC is already pretty big and if I run hard pipe right up to the DC, it makes the footprint even bigger. What I would like to do is run hard pipe down the wall and then have about a 2-3 foot section of flex hose that connects the pipe to the DC. How bad will this hurt the DC performance? Should I just figure out a way to run the pipe all the way to the DC?
  2. Thanks for all the help. In a related question, what is the proper way to refer to this kind of construction? I see it advertised as "butcher block", I always thought butcher block was end grain pointing up.
  3. The main length of the desk is 74" x 28". The small top is 30" x 24". The top is 2" thick cherry that is built edge grain (like a classic workbench top). The legs are 3" thick oak and the rails are 1" thick by 3" oak. Some good advice here.
  4. My son asked me to build him a desk. Based on what he has shown me that he likes, I created this rough design. I've already constructed the top, which is 2" thick edge-grain construction. I'm starting on the base and am now wondering if I need an apron. With the double rails, I didn't think I would need one, but now I'm doubting. Am I asking for trouble?
  5. Good point! I completely forgot about that. Some air probably gets in from the door not being air-tight, but not enough. I'll drill some holes to let more through.
  6. I bought a used JesseEm router table about a year ago. I couldn't stand to see all the wasted space!
  7. It has been great, much better than I was even hoping for. I'm in Florida and August is the worst month here. Last year at this time, it was nearly impossible to work out in the shop, except really early in the morning or late at night. Yesterday, it was in the 90's and super humid here. I came home from work at 4:00 and walked into a 77 degree shop. My 12 yr old daughter has started coming out in the shop and making things. She made a comment to my wife about how nice it was and that now that there is AC. That definitely made it worth it! My wife has been watching and comparing the electric cost to last year after the mini split and so far we haven't seen a noticeable difference.
  8. Thanks! I struggled with the drawers more than anything. The undermount slides seemed to have a lot of play in them at first and that was giving me headaches. Next time I think I might try the blum slides. They are pricey, though.
  9. Each LED reel has an end that has a female connection that will connect right to a transformer. I cut these off all but one of the reels, since I was stringing them all together. I also bought a cheap remote and it has a switch that goes between the transformer and the female LED connection. I only had to worry about dealing with the 22/2 wire connecting up the strips. It took me a few tries to get the hang of soldering (I had only soldered one thing before this), but I found it to be really fun. Now I want to put these lights everywhere! I also found that the sticking power of the LED strips wasn't always great. So I ended up putting the heavy duty 3M double sided tape on each end of each strip. That stuff holds really well.
  10. Yeah, the sections are all anchored to each other. I went from underneath on the bottom cabinets and connected heavy screws from the cabinets to the bookcases. Then I have some heavy duty L-brackets that I anchored to the studs, just in case. They probably aren't needed, but I get nervous thinking of wife being on the ladder.
  11. For the wiring, I bought 16 foot roles from Amazon (I think they were only $11 a role). They are made to be cut every 2 feet or so. I cut them into strips that fit on the back of the shelf overhang. To connect the individual strips, I soldered them together with 22 gauge wire. I ran the wire through a small hole between each shelf. On the ends, I drilled a hole in the bottom of the shelf to run down to the next level of shelves. They are all end up being connected together in one REALLY long line that gets connected to one plug. I think it took me about 3 nights to do it. Once I got the hang of soldering, it went fast. It probably took me 75% of the time to do the first set of shelves. My wife writes historical romance. Here is her latest book: https://www.amazon.com/Never-Trust-Pirate-Playful-Brides/dp/1250121698/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1498847661&sr=8-1&keywords=valerie+bowman She's actually working on a book where the hero is going to be a woodworker! ha!
  12. I did need to run a 240V. There are 120V units, but I think they only go up to 12000 BTU and they also still require a dedicated circuit. My garage doors are metal and face almost directly west. I did insulate them and that did make a big difference. Nothing else is insulated. I am also thinking about insulating the attic, but so far, I've been really happy with it. For the vacuum part, you will need a vacuum and a manifold gauge. For the vacuum, it needs to be R410a compatible. I bought the vacuum and gauge as a set. This is the one I got: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LKZJL6C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I was most worried about the evacuation part, but it was actually one of the easiest parts. When you read about a lot of the DIY installs folks do, they seem to have the most trouble with drilling the hole in the wall and mounting the indoor unit. For woodworkers, this is probably one of the easier parts, since we know how to drill holes.
  13. The $1400 was just labor. If it had been everything, or even 2000, I would have let them do it.
  14. Thought I would follow-up on this. I bought the Pioneer 18000 BTU and installed it. It took the better part of two days to install, but it was not hard to do. Buying the unit and all necessary electrical connections and vacuum pump was right at $1200. The one quote I was able to get for installing it was $1400. Happy I did it myself and the difference in the shop is incredible. It was 97 degrees in the shop on the day I was installing it. Now I am woodworking in a "cool" 78 degrees! Here are a couple pictures of finished installation. I still need to go back and touch up paint, etc.
  15. My wife writes novels and this year her 10th book was published. She asked if I could build her a bookcase with a sliding ladder. I picked up the Rockler ladder kit when it was on sale and started building this monster at the beginning of the year. It feels like it took forever and I'm so happy to be done with it and moving onto the next (smaller) project. It was built where it looks sort of like a built-in, but it is stand-alone. She does not want to leave it when we move next. Some details: Baltic birch plywood with poplar hardwood I built it in 6 pieces and then moved those into the house. It can be disassembled relatively easily. It is 12 feet wide by 9 feet high. Painted to match the rooms trim with the back beadboard painted to match the wall. I ended up spraying latex using my Earlex 5500. I was expecting disaster, but it worked out so much better than expected. I realize that HVLPs aren't made for this, but what I discovered through research is that some latex paints (partically 100% acrylic) spray pretty well. The paint was the Sherwin Williams Pro Classic. Can't say enough good things about the Earlex. Undermount drawer slides. First time installing them for me and what a pain. Not sure I will ever use them again. I did not buy the Blum ones because of cost, but I also didn't get the absolute cheapos. The LED lights were really cool and I got to work on my soldering technique (A LOT!). Now I want to put these up in the kitchen. My wife is super happy with and as always a lot of good advice came from reading this forum.
  16. I pulled the trigger on a Pioneer 18000 today. It has gotten good reviews and is significantly less than going with a Mitsubishi. The Mr. Slim is twice as much and doesn't come with the line set (another ~300). I'm going to continue trying to find an HVAC installer for the refrigerant part, but if I get to the end and I'm ready to evacuate, I'll probably just buy a vacuum pump and gauge set and give it a go. It feels like a bit of a gamble, but I'm willing to give it a try for some relief this summer.
  17. I've read through a few installation manuals and the big unknown to me is definitely the refrigerant process. My understanding is: Many of the units come with (or you can buy) the pre-charged line set. I believe these come flared, so that as long as you buy the right length, you won't have to flare them yourself. Creating a proper flare looks like it is probably the most challenging part of the whole process, but may be unnecessary for a lot of installs. Once you have everything connected, you hookup the vacuum pump and do the evacuation. That part actually looks straight-forward and I've read some say it is actually an easier part of the install. I think where things get tricky and you probably have to get an HVAC expert involved is when you have to add refrigerant. That looks like something you definitely would not want to do yourself, but in most cases it does not seem like you would have to ever add refrigerant.
  18. I'd be ok with buying the unit from the installer. That is the path I've been trying to take. I just can't get anyone to even call back or come out for an estimate. I'm not sure why, but seems like the HVAC companies have little interest in installing these things. It surprises me because I'd happily pay for the unit and $1000 for the install. From what I've read about my particular setup, it sounds like it would take one person 4-5 hrs to do an install. I wish I had a job where I could just pass up that kind of money.
  19. Hey Mike, I didn't buy one yet.. was wanting to make sure I could find someone to install first. I still can't find that dang sketchup file .
  20. I didn't think about looking at Costco. I don't see mini splits on their site, but it may be something only in stores. I'll take a look.
  21. I live in NE Florida and summers in the shop are beyond hot. We have a 3 car garage and my wife uses one of the bays. Over the winter I built a dividing wall between my shop and her bay. I insulated the wall. My plan was to get a mini split installed before summer. I didn't realize that it is near impossible to find a company around here that will install one. Every company I call has blown me off. The one company that did say they would come out and give me an estimate, never showed up. I'm now leaning toward just installing it myself. I'm comfortable doing most of the installation, including the electrical part, but the evacuation of the unit is what I'm concerned about. I've read through the instructions for the unit I am looking at and I think I understand how to do the evacuation. Anyone installed their own? Or have any advice on finding someone to install it? I've tried calling companies, putting an ad on Craigslist, etc.
  22. I'm nearing the end of a large bookcase/cabinet (12'x9') build that will be painted. My wife wants it to match the color paint that is used in our house for trim, which is an antique white color of Sherwin William's Duration Acrylic Latex. I tried to talk her into a color or color mix of GF Milk Paint. I sprayed my daughter's dresser with an Earlex 5500 and GF Milk Paint and it came out so much better than any brush/roller painting I have done in the past. I suck at painting with a brush and after the awesome experience with GF Milk Paint, I vowed to never use a brush again. I spent a little time trying to mix GF paint color to match, but couldn't get it quite right and it was becoming an expensive process. My understanding is that GF Milk Paint is actually an Acrylic paint. I saw this product at SW and was wondering if it would be sprayable with my Earlex: https://www.sherwin-williams.com/ProductDisplay?storeId=10151&urlLangId=-1&productId=13227&urlRequestType=Base&top_category=22209&langId=-1&catalogId=11055#helpful-info I was thinking that I could then just get SW to match the color. Any thoughts on if this would work? Or any other options there may be. It is really confusing reading about this stuff. Also, I wasn't even going to try spraying the Duration with my setup, but if anyone has had success with that or spraying a similar product, I'd give it a try. From what I've read, it just seems like the wrong paint for this. I hate painting furniture. Not really a fan of the way it looks or doing it, but my wife likes it, so...
  23. Thanks for all the advice. I checked yesterday and I can rent a 12" Makita from HD for a day. I don't need to make that many cuts, so I think that may be the best way to go.
  24. Like most of us, I have limited shop space and one tool I've never felt justified the space it takes up is a miter saw. Currently, I break down lumber with a jig saw and do all cross cutting on table saw with an Incra miter gauge or my shop made sled. I have a project that I am wrapping up that requires cutting long crown molding. I've cut shorter crown molding in the past on my tablesaw, but even with the short length it felt awkward. I'm looking at getting a miter saw and am trying to think through whether I should get a less expensive miter saw that will get the crown molding job done or if I should spent more and get a miter saw that I could integrate with my workflow. The cheaper saw I'm looking at is the Dewalt 12" single-bevel saw. Lowes has it for $220 and it should get the crown molding job done and then I would probably try to find a place outside of my shop to store it. The more expensive option would probably be the Bosch gliding miter saw. They have 10" and 12" options and are around $600. If I go the Bosch route, I would setup a permanent place for it in my shop and would want to use it for most of my cross cutting. My questions: I'm assuming the Dewalt is likely not going to be accurate enough to use as a final cut cross cutting option. Maybe this is bad assumption? If I go Bosch, any reason to get the 10" instead of 12"? The cost is comparable here and wouldn't be a consideration. With the 10" there are probably more blade options and I could use same blades as table saw. For those that use a miter saw in your workflow, do you consider it a must have now? Do you see it as a big improvement to how you work? Is it safe to break down rough boards with a miter saw? Before jointing rough boards, I always break them down to rough size with a jigsaw. It works, but can be bit of a pain.
  25. A couple projects ago, I built this simplified version of a similar jig to the one you've designed. It was my first project with loose tenons and I thought it would be a throw-away jig, but I've used it on two other projects since. In the picture, I've marked out my mortises on each piece, but I don't do that anymore. That was the first project I used it on and I was paranoid. Now, I just mark first piece, setup the jig and cut mortises. On my last project, I cut ~30 mortises one evening with it. Not as fast a Domino, but not bad! I built it off this design: http://thecraftsmanspath.com/2007/09/25/loose-tenon-joinery-budget-alternative-festool-domino/