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Everything posted by DruBokkens

  1. Does oil temperature have any impact on the gloss level in the finish? I wonder if cold oil on consecutive coats would aid in producing more gloss while mildly warmed-up oil less gloss? I guess I'll just have to experiment with it.
  2. By the way, warming the oil even mildly after the first coat makes no difference, correct? Binds with the previous coat just as well as with cool oil?
  3. I would, if not for the fact that wax requires constant reapplication. If I can improve penetration on the first coat of tung, it'll suffice until I can find a better way of doing it.
  4. Thanks for the info. I'll try the same temp since tung and BLO should be close enough in behavior. What is this, another one of your attempts to sabotage my mission?
  5. I'll definitely try warming it up.
  6. Yeah, I'll just stick with tung since I know it better. Does diluting really increase penetration? Because I've also heard it can be an impression while what you get is just less oil per coat, and only the solvent penetrates since the oil molecules stay the same size.
  7. I'm aware of the difference and I use 100% raw pure tung oil, as well as teak oil. The reason these two instead of stronger modern blends is that it's for wooden training weapons. Long story short, it needs to achieve a flexible satin finish that provides very basic "protection", only to keep most of the sweat from being absorbed, and to minimize atmospheric exchange of water. Reason I asked if it's possible to put tung over teak without running into major issues is experimentation. Normally I use just pure tung, but doesn't penetrate dense hickory as well as teak (as far as I know), so I'm considering experimenting with teak underneath as a conditioner and tung on top for the tactile reasons.
  8. Would it work to apply tung oil over teak oil? I'm wondering if it can pose problems like adhesion of two different oils to each other, unless it doesn't matter when both oils are curing oils, and tung will adhere to teak just as well as to itself?
  9. One question; do 3M 7500 series and Miller Electric work with longer beards, or too long means it won't seal? From what I've seen it can be hard to determine if the seal is full on some people, since they use smell tests, but would these two pass for wood dust particles with a mid-length beard?
  10. Could you guys recommend a decent mask for dust particle protection from hardwoods, especially hickory? It's for small work with hand tools and sanding, but I assume there are different grades of particle size that some masks will or won't filter. Not sure if the hardware store stuff is even worth spending a dime on...
  11. Has the same hardness as the rest of it. I wonder what could it be, then, from the tree growth point of view. Looks interesting, thanks to the fact that the board has a very rapidly increasing runout towards the end seen as getting darker, on the pictures. Maybe it was closer to the basis of the trunk.
  12. I'm pretty sure it's hickory, and I'm mostly sure it's pignut. Now that you mentioned possibility of rotten wood, do you guys think you could tell if these pictures suggest that problem?
  13. I've read somewhere that someone had a similar experience, but no details were provided or conclusions made. I got the wood from a family-owned mill and all of it seemed dry. One thing I can see is that the heartwood has dark outlines where layers are cut through, as if there's a dark grey layer between the rings but I don't know that much about it.
  14. Have you guys experienced a strong sour smell on hickory, basically identical to manure? I have several slabs of Shagbark, Bitternut and Pignut, and only the Pignut displays this thrilling quality. I should note it's in the heartwood only, so I wonder is it normal, or does it signify undesired transformations within the wood?
  15. One more important factor is altitude, correct? Does it affect curing time? I live at 5000ft and there is lower oxygen content in the air, which I imagine can affect the curing time, even in dry, hot weather and decent ventilation?
  16. I got an old, cotton white sheet at Goodwill, looks good, well-used and very little lint. Pretty big, should make a bunch of foot-by-foot rags.
  17. But can the colored fabric have any impact on the oiling, or none at all? I'm asking from your guys' long-term experience. In other words, when you buy a box of those, you don't get only whites?
  18. Somehow I didn't think about simply getting some at Goodwill and such. That reminds me, the t-shirts don't have to be white, right? Color won't hurt anything?
  19. True and wise. I'll get some at a Goodwill or some thrift store. Thanks for the advice. Case closed swiftly.
  20. Is there anything else at all that also works when I don't have any? Can't seem to find any definitive direction, other than old t-shirts, hence my question. Any thoughts on 50% cotton-50% polyester staining cloth? Utterly useless?
  21. Looking for an effective lint-free cloth for oil finishing, curious about your experience in this matter, gentlemen.
  22. Which is why I'm only ever going to use plain hickory from the true hickory group (shagbark, shellbark or pignut, usually where I live I only have access to shagbark in small amounts), which usually falls under L5-L6 specific gravity (.6 to .8) and that's all anyone really needs. I don't get the thing with buying Lignum Vitae from the last 4 remaining trees in the world, or like you said, using advanced technology to achieve adamantium-bound super-grain. The main reason I decided to make these on my own was not wanting to spend $400+ a piece . . .
  23. Now that's some great education here. Thanks a ton, guys (and for patience teaching the basics to a rookie). I won't make a big mistake and I'll just rub the sword with pure tung.