AJ_Engineer

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About AJ_Engineer

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  • Location
    Calgary Alberta
  • Woodworking Interests
    Furniture for the home as well as shop projects (to build more shop projects with [to build more shop projects with...])

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  1. Yep you need some x-bracing or diaphragm somewhere. X-bracing under the slide would be a good spot, or adding a plywood climbing wall to get up to the slide deck would work. Alternatively you could add some plywood to form a small roof down from the peak of the slide area between the two A frames. Nail it in often to the A-frames.
  2. Yeah will be royal mess to clean up, little bits sticking by static everywhere. I typically just use a big screwdriver or knife and break them into chunks that fit better in the trash bin.
  3. Yeah the duty rating should be on the nameplate for the motor. 5hp motor stands a good chance of 100% duty rating.
  4. Some jurisdictions may have issues with steps down to another enclosed living type space from the garage due to carbon monoxide issues. May be OK if you technically call it 'storage/more garage' but something to ask the building dept.
  5. Yeah this is what I was going to write up. Maybe keep the garage in the same location but add the workshop between the house and garage instead of the breezeway.
  6. Throw a firearm in the pelican case and check it (assuming you are traveling to a free state) and you can actually lock it. They'll work double time to find a missing gun if it doesn't get to your destination. Shipping will be expensive I imagine, but either way you're packing them in a hard case the same. It's been a long while since a checked bag of mine has gone missing or delayed.
  7. My 8" Powermatic jointer I have on a HTC base, as well as my bandsaw. One end drops on the floor fully and the other end is still on the fixed wheels. If you really push on it you can move it. If I had a concern I would probably cut down a hockey puck and use a crowbar to lift the base, slide the puck in, and drop it back down to put all 4 corners on the ground and not wheels. Something like that may also be an option for you.
  8. If that area around it is waste (the circle/oval you have marked out) you could try drilling straight down to intercept the bit in a number of locations to relieve the pressure. Use a standard twist drill and not a brad point for when you hit the stuck bit. Since the drill bit is now a loss you could also try a nail puller.
  9. Spax screws come with a bit in every box, and those work nicely. But I did pick up a cheap Ryobi set that seems to have every bit there is made to have a nice variety.
  10. Is there anyone in town that even sells Powermatic gear? I would like to consider a new PM2000B but it's hard to find to compare when I can get a PCS at Lee Valley or KMS.
  11. If it is less than 2 dozen or so I'd probably go with the bandsaw and cleanup with a spindle sander. More than that I'd do a long blank first, probably cut the cove first with the table saw, make one or two cuts with the blank on edge at the table saw to remove most of the waste on the convex side, run through a router table to get some of the roundovers, then cut into individual pieces. After that either bandsaw/spindle sander that outside curve or use a template and pattern bit in a router table. 1-5/8" wide is within the range of a reasonable pattern bit.
  12. I thought about the 700 with adapter vs 500, and wound up just getting the 500. I'm not going to be making any projects which truly need the 700 and it's a lot bigger than the 500.
  13. Insteon should have that. Smart switch + smart outlet. GE also has some Z-wave products I'm not as familiar with.
  14. General Finishes seems to have put out quite a few videos recently, also about some of their sprayable products and how to do that which has helped me.
  15. Condolences on moving to Ohio, from someone who grew up in Michigan. I did a cross-country (or rather, to another country) move last year with all of my tools. Although mine was with a professional moving company. They didn't do anything special with the tools, just loaded them on the truck and strapped them in place. I will second the option of picking up moving blankets at Harbor Freight, I did many years ago for random things and they work well. For your bandsaw, tipping it over should be fine, just protect it from scratches and maybe put something over it so you have a flat spot to stack other light things. You may consider taking the table off, that's usually easy to do. The drillpress, consider taking the head unit off. Generally they come off of the post fairly easily and now you won't have such a top heavy item. Throw the head on the pallet with your table wings. When I bought my drillpress that was how it came in the box, so you may be able to take it apart it fairly easily. Moving these things on their side in/out I would use a big pry bar to lift up the tool, slide a furniture dolly underneath, then move it out. Or spend a few bucks and hire some help for a few hours to load/unload. Dewalt planer I would take off the stand, idea is to reduce the high up weight of the tools if easy/possible so you are less worried about strapping things in. Overall just mind the weight distribution on the trailer to make sure you have the proper tongue weight, and since it's a rental double check the tires when you get it.