Robby W

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About Robby W

  • Rank
    Journeyman Poster
  • Birthday 07/24/1952

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  • Location
    San Marcos, California
  • Woodworking Interests
    Hybrid woodworker. I like making all most anything.

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  1. +1 for the Tage Frid books. That is where I learned fine woodworking. They are fun to read too.
  2. I have to disagree with this statement, although the answer may vary with context. I bought a Beisemeyer fence years ago and spent a couple hours installing and adjusting it. I set the cursor hairline so it accurately shows the correct setting. Now, I don't bother using a tape to check measurements. I set it by the cursor and go. It is accurate to less than a 1/64th, more than enough for normal woodworking. It was a game changer for me and really sped up my work. Having said that, you have to be sure that the supplied stick-on tape measure is accurate. Some of them are not and you will get weird results from them.
  3. For saws that use a T-square style fence, you can move the rails anyway you want. You might have to drill some holes or replace the tape, but none of that is hard. You can also just cut the 52 inch rails to 36" and shorten or remake the extension table.
  4. I have a couple of standard WWII and an option 1 WWII that.libes in my saw most of the time. It has a modified grind that gives a flat bottom cut and rips much better than a standard WWII. Crosscuts aren't quite as nice though. By the way, my saw is a 2hp saw and I only use full kerf blades. Never had a problem with then. I think it is important to use the proper blade for what you are doing. When I rip thick stock, I use a 30 tooth rip blade. When I am cutting plywood or melamine, I use an 80 tooth hi-ATB blade made for the job. Get one of the recommended blades for your first blade, but collect others as you have a need for them. I would stick with full kerf blades. Just match your feed rate to what the motor will take. And spend some time aligning your saw correctly. That will do almost as much for a clean cut as a new blade.
  5. I don't know what one is worth, but I have had the precursor Rockwell version of that saw for over 40 years. With a few tweaks it can be a really good saw. I replaced the low grade trunnion bolts with grade 5 bolts, with fixed the problem with the saw going out of adjustment. I changed the v-belt for a link belt and machined pulleys, which smoothed things out a bunch. I made new side tables and added a Biesemyer fence. Finally, the saw I got came without a motor, so I installed a 2 hp high service factor motor. It has been a great saw. If you are thinking "why did you spend all that money instead of just buying a better saw to start with?" Back then, a better saw was several thousand dollars, any my saw with all of the goodies was less than a $1000, stretched out over many years.
  6. Pretty sure the issue is on my end. I wonder if I got some swarf in the roller bearings. Someday, I'll tear it apart cans see what caused it. The jam caused the micro bevel setting to spin and gave made a rounded edge. Weird....
  7. I have had issues with the roller jamming on my Mk2 guide. I use it for oddball blades, but prefer my L-N side clamping guide for normal sharpening. It is faster and I haven't had any issues with it. Like OakStBeachBum, i made a set of stops on my sharpening board to set the angle. Very fast and repeatable.
  8. Use Johnson's Floor Wax. It is more non-slip. I used it into my tablesaw once. Big mistake! Nothing would slide properly.
  9. That design is basically the same as that used in the Delta RC33 back in the eighties. I have one and the motor is on the top. It takes a bit of muscle to crank it up and down, but keep the screws greased and it isn't bad. Nice part on my Delta: set the height locks and no snipe.
  10. Another possibility is catalyzed shellac, sold by VJ on It is impervious to almost anything. VJ will usually answer the phone and is a mine of shellac info for your questions. He sells really good shellac too.
  11. Buy it. You could easily beef up the base by adding a 4/4 x 6 inch or wider stretcher on the rear legs. Cut a small shoulder to create a tenon, then pocket mortices and use barrel nuts and bolts to fasten it I. Won't take more than an hour or so, but you will be surprised at how much it stiffens the base against racking.
  12. Fine Woodworking did a glue test and believe it or not, the polyurethane glues did not beat the PVA based glues. And all of that foam has zero strength. Poly glue requires a properly fitted joint to reach full strength. It is not a gap filling glue. And I definitely agree with you about the mess. Took me a week to pick it off my hands.
  13. I have too many sizes that I have collected over the years, but when I replaced my everyday chisels with premium chisels, I got 1/8, 1/4, 3/8, 1/2, 3/4 and 1 inch chisels. I use the 1/4 and 3/8's on dovetails, the 1/2, and 3/4 for general paring and the 1 inch for flushing things to the surface. I probably use my 1/2" more than any other. The 1/8" chisel is for nitpicky cleanup tasks. These chisels handle 90% of my woodworking tasks. the On top of those, I have a couple of skew chisels, a couple of Japanese chisels for fine dovetailing, a fishtail chisel, a set of mortice chisels.... Having Tool Acquisition Syndrome does not make this an easy write.... Hi, I'm Robby and I am a tool addict It doesn't help that Lie-Nielsen has there tool event less than two miles from house every February. I have actually started giving some away to friends that are starting out on their woodworking journey.
  14. My fence hasn't been off the saw in years. My large air compressor tank sits just to the right of my tablesaw and limits the length of things on the right of the blade. The very few times I take the fence off, I either put it on the crossbars of the base or set it on my workbench.
  15. A waxed melamine or laminate surface will allow wood to glide easily. When I am getting ready to do a lot of sawing, I get the Johnson's paste wax and apply a coat. Sheet goods and lumber just glide over the laminte surface of my out feed table when waxed.