Robby W

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About Robby W

  • Rank
    Journeyman Poster
  • Birthday 07/24/1952

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    San Marcos, California
  • Woodworking Interests
    Hybrid woodworker. I like making all most anything.

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  1. I use a series of smaller blocks in a drawer. I can make a new one in a few minutes when I need it and don't have any trouble tossing an old one that my bit collection has out grown. But that isn't going to work with your shelving idea. It is going to cost you a fortune to buy all of those inserts. An alternative would be to layout a grid and alternate 1/4" holes with 1/4" holes.
  2. Hi, Duck - I built a vertical storage rack to store my sheet goods. It will hold a dozen or more full sheets I one half, another dozen half sheets or 5x5 Baltic Birch ply and other partial sheets in the top. Works great. One thing to watch out for is be sure you can pull a sheet out without hitting something. It has worked out well, but I have found that writing the size of the sheet or piece on the edge so it is easy to see makes life easier. Many times I thought I had a full sheet only to find out it was a partial long piece. I tried the cart, but it took up too much space and it was hard to get sheets in and out.
  3. For a router table, I suggest the Milwaukee 5625-20 3 1/4 HP router. I have had the Porter Cable and like the Milwaukee better. To start with, it you don't want to by a router lift, you can remove the baseplate and mount it to the router table. You can adjust the 4625-20 from above the table with a supplied wrench, or you can remove it from the base and out it in a lift. I like the speed control better, (it is continuous, not stepped), and Milwaukee reliability is legendary. If I could afford it, I would get a cast iron router table top and out it on my own base. My router table is the left extension table on my tablesaw and the extra space is nice for both uses.
  4. I have a hunch that it might be your sandpaper. The Diablo paper I got once plugged up really quickly. They some Norton disks, or Klingspor.
  5. I bought some of those sleeves. Worked well for me.
  6. You can slow the shocking down by wearing a glove on your sander hand. I would still ground everything.
  7. Titebond III has been my go-to glue since it came out. I have had it with open joints for at least 10 minutes, even in warmer weather. Once you put it together, you have only a few minutes until it grabs. Once it does, you need a hammer to take it apart. I get really strong joints using it.
  8. The Ryobi sander isn't rated as very good. And the Diablo disks I tried definitely weren't very good. I would suggest a better sander and some good abrasives would help a bunch. Fine Woodworking rated the Bosch as very good. I like the Norton Gold and Klingspor disks. Both work well for me. Mirka is good too. If you need to start sanding at 60 grit, you probably needed to do other methods of surface prep first. 60 grit leaves really deep grooves that are hard to remove without having to remove a lot of material. Use a plane or card scraper to remove planing scallops and mill marks, then sand. I start with 120 grit, then 150, 180 and finish up with 220 for most things. Once you finish with 220 in the orbital sander, use 220 paper with a sanding block to sand with the grain and remove any left over swirl marks from the sander. This should go a bunch faster than starting with 60 grit.
  9. Yeah, the good old So. Cal Air Resources Board..... Grumble. I heard that Home Depot, Lowe's and a couple of other larger stores got fined $5 million each for carrying it as "glass cleaner" as a clever way to get around the ban. "... how long is your drive to NM or NV? " I have to go to Nevada soon for work. Guess I might have to drive to bring some back.
  10. I hope this hasn't been discussed before. Shellac is one of my favorite small project finishes, so I went down to the local big box stores to get another gallon of denatured alcohol to thin it out to a 2 pound cut. Imagine my surprise when I was told it isn't available in California anymore thanks to someone deciding that the thinner for the most non-toxic finish around was bad for the environment. What are others using for a substitute? I even checked the dedicated finishing stores. No luck there either. And we can't get Everclear stronger than 120 proof, so that is out. Interesting side note: One of the stores had Arm-R-All, something else I haven't been able to find in California.
  11. +1 for the Tage Frid books. That is where I learned fine woodworking. They are fun to read too.
  12. I have to disagree with this statement, although the answer may vary with context. I bought a Beisemeyer fence years ago and spent a couple hours installing and adjusting it. I set the cursor hairline so it accurately shows the correct setting. Now, I don't bother using a tape to check measurements. I set it by the cursor and go. It is accurate to less than a 1/64th, more than enough for normal woodworking. It was a game changer for me and really sped up my work. Having said that, you have to be sure that the supplied stick-on tape measure is accurate. Some of them are not and you will get weird results from them.
  13. For saws that use a T-square style fence, you can move the rails anyway you want. You might have to drill some holes or replace the tape, but none of that is hard. You can also just cut the 52 inch rails to 36" and shorten or remake the extension table.
  14. I have a couple of standard WWII and an option 1 WWII that.libes in my saw most of the time. It has a modified grind that gives a flat bottom cut and rips much better than a standard WWII. Crosscuts aren't quite as nice though. By the way, my saw is a 2hp saw and I only use full kerf blades. Never had a problem with then. I think it is important to use the proper blade for what you are doing. When I rip thick stock, I use a 30 tooth rip blade. When I am cutting plywood or melamine, I use an 80 tooth hi-ATB blade made for the job. Get one of the recommended blades for your first blade, but collect others as you have a need for them. I would stick with full kerf blades. Just match your feed rate to what the motor will take. And spend some time aligning your saw correctly. That will do almost as much for a clean cut as a new blade.
  15. I don't know what one is worth, but I have had the precursor Rockwell version of that saw for over 40 years. With a few tweaks it can be a really good saw. I replaced the low grade trunnion bolts with grade 5 bolts, with fixed the problem with the saw going out of adjustment. I changed the v-belt for a link belt and machined pulleys, which smoothed things out a bunch. I made new side tables and added a Biesemyer fence. Finally, the saw I got came without a motor, so I installed a 2 hp high service factor motor. It has been a great saw. If you are thinking "why did you spend all that money instead of just buying a better saw to start with?" Back then, a better saw was several thousand dollars, any my saw with all of the goodies was less than a $1000, stretched out over many years.