Robby W

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About Robby W

  • Rank
    Journeyman Poster
  • Birthday 07/24/1952

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    San Marcos, California
  • Woodworking Interests
    Hybrid woodworker. I like making all most anything.

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  1. My tablesaw is up against the overhead door in my garage. Since I live in the San Diego area, I can open the door most days and use the outdoors for my outfeed area. But the overhead door makes mounting a light over the saw for nighttime use impossible. I was always working in my shadow. I puzzled over this for awhile, and then my youngest son gave me one of the hooded LED lights from Rockler and the light came on (sorry, couldn't resist!) I used 3/4" EMT to make an arm that went up over my saw from the wall. I mounted a light socket on the end of the arm, then added a switch and cord to it. Viola! It works pretty well with the rest of the lights in my shop.
  2. I bought this brush on a lark, thinking it was interesting, but no big deal. When I got it, I was surprised at the quality of the brush. It has 3" long natural boar bristles that are just the right amount of stiffness - Stiff enough for general cleaning, but soft enough for delicate stuff too. I couldn't figure out where to keep it, so I drilled a small counterbore on the back and super glued an ND magnet in it. Now I can just stick it to the overarm dust collector on my saw and it is in easy reach. This brush has turned out to be really handy.
  3. I have a 4 HP vertical 80 gallon twin V cylinder compressor that is really handy when I need the air. I can run a spray gun without any strain. Nailers aren't any problem. Air tools aren't a problem. My venturi vacuum pump barely makes it break a sweat. I used copper pipe to plumb my shop and have three reels for the hoses. Having said all of that, there are drawbacks to a big compressor. While not loud like a diaphragm pump, it definitely isn't quiet in a deep thumping way. Most off the time, it doesn't even cycle while nailing a project together. And it takes about quite a bit of space. I have it tucked back behind my saw, so it doesn't interfere much, but I can't use the space on the wall behind it because it is too tall (almost 6 1/2 feet). Sometimes I wonder if I overbought, but other times I am glad I did. At least I never need to worry about having enough air!
  4. I believe the original machine used a bit with a hollow center, sort of like some plug cutters, to cut the drawer front. Plunge it in and you get the circular recess with the pin left in the middle. Index to the next location and repeat. The side would be a combination of a drilled holes and a cutter that left a half round shape. Not hard to do with a dedicated machine.
  5. I use a series of smaller blocks in a drawer. I can make a new one in a few minutes when I need it and don't have any trouble tossing an old one that my bit collection has out grown. But that isn't going to work with your shelving idea. It is going to cost you a fortune to buy all of those inserts. An alternative would be to layout a grid and alternate 1/4" holes with 1/4" holes.
  6. Hi, Duck - I built a vertical storage rack to store my sheet goods. It will hold a dozen or more full sheets I one half, another dozen half sheets or 5x5 Baltic Birch ply and other partial sheets in the top. Works great. One thing to watch out for is be sure you can pull a sheet out without hitting something. It has worked out well, but I have found that writing the size of the sheet or piece on the edge so it is easy to see makes life easier. Many times I thought I had a full sheet only to find out it was a partial long piece. I tried the cart, but it took up too much space and it was hard to get sheets in and out.
  7. For a router table, I suggest the Milwaukee 5625-20 3 1/4 HP router. I have had the Porter Cable and like the Milwaukee better. To start with, it you don't want to by a router lift, you can remove the baseplate and mount it to the router table. You can adjust the 4625-20 from above the table with a supplied wrench, or you can remove it from the base and out it in a lift. I like the speed control better, (it is continuous, not stepped), and Milwaukee reliability is legendary. If I could afford it, I would get a cast iron router table top and out it on my own base. My router table is the left extension table on my tablesaw and the extra space is nice for both uses.
  8. I have a hunch that it might be your sandpaper. The Diablo paper I got once plugged up really quickly. They some Norton disks, or Klingspor.
  9. I bought some of those sleeves. Worked well for me.
  10. You can slow the shocking down by wearing a glove on your sander hand. I would still ground everything.
  11. Titebond III has been my go-to glue since it came out. I have had it with open joints for at least 10 minutes, even in warmer weather. Once you put it together, you have only a few minutes until it grabs. Once it does, you need a hammer to take it apart. I get really strong joints using it.
  12. The Ryobi sander isn't rated as very good. And the Diablo disks I tried definitely weren't very good. I would suggest a better sander and some good abrasives would help a bunch. Fine Woodworking rated the Bosch as very good. I like the Norton Gold and Klingspor disks. Both work well for me. Mirka is good too. If you need to start sanding at 60 grit, you probably needed to do other methods of surface prep first. 60 grit leaves really deep grooves that are hard to remove without having to remove a lot of material. Use a plane or card scraper to remove planing scallops and mill marks, then sand. I start with 120 grit, then 150, 180 and finish up with 220 for most things. Once you finish with 220 in the orbital sander, use 220 paper with a sanding block to sand with the grain and remove any left over swirl marks from the sander. This should go a bunch faster than starting with 60 grit.
  13. Yeah, the good old So. Cal Air Resources Board..... Grumble. I heard that Home Depot, Lowe's and a couple of other larger stores got fined $5 million each for carrying it as "glass cleaner" as a clever way to get around the ban. "... how long is your drive to NM or NV? " I have to go to Nevada soon for work. Guess I might have to drive to bring some back.
  14. I hope this hasn't been discussed before. Shellac is one of my favorite small project finishes, so I went down to the local big box stores to get another gallon of denatured alcohol to thin it out to a 2 pound cut. Imagine my surprise when I was told it isn't available in California anymore thanks to someone deciding that the thinner for the most non-toxic finish around was bad for the environment. What are others using for a substitute? I even checked the dedicated finishing stores. No luck there either. And we can't get Everclear stronger than 120 proof, so that is out. Interesting side note: One of the stores had Arm-R-All, something else I haven't been able to find in California.
  15. +1 for the Tage Frid books. That is where I learned fine woodworking. They are fun to read too.