Robby W

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About Robby W

  • Rank
    Journeyman Poster
  • Birthday 07/24/1952

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    San Marcos, California
  • Woodworking Interests
    Hybrid woodworker. I like making all most anything.

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  1. Pretty sure the issue is on my end. I wonder if I got some swarf in the roller bearings. Someday, I'll tear it apart cans see what caused it. The jam caused the micro bevel setting to spin and gave made a rounded edge. Weird....
  2. I have had issues with the roller jamming on my Mk2 guide. I use it for oddball blades, but prefer my L-N side clamping guide for normal sharpening. It is faster and I haven't had any issues with it. Like OakStBeachBum, i made a set of stops on my sharpening board to set the angle. Very fast and repeatable.
  3. Use Johnson's Floor Wax. It is more non-slip. I used it into my tablesaw once. Big mistake! Nothing would slide properly.
  4. That design is basically the same as that used in the Delta RC33 back in the eighties. I have one and the motor is on the top. It takes a bit of muscle to crank it up and down, but keep the screws greased and it isn't bad. Nice part on my Delta: set the height locks and no snipe.
  5. Another possibility is catalyzed shellac, sold by VJ on shellacfinishes.com. It is impervious to almost anything. VJ will usually answer the phone and is a mine of shellac info for your questions. He sells really good shellac too.
  6. Buy it. You could easily beef up the base by adding a 4/4 x 6 inch or wider stretcher on the rear legs. Cut a small shoulder to create a tenon, then pocket mortices and use barrel nuts and bolts to fasten it I. Won't take more than an hour or so, but you will be surprised at how much it stiffens the base against racking.
  7. Fine Woodworking did a glue test and believe it or not, the polyurethane glues did not beat the PVA based glues. And all of that foam has zero strength. Poly glue requires a properly fitted joint to reach full strength. It is not a gap filling glue. And I definitely agree with you about the mess. Took me a week to pick it off my hands.
  8. I have too many sizes that I have collected over the years, but when I replaced my everyday chisels with premium chisels, I got 1/8, 1/4, 3/8, 1/2, 3/4 and 1 inch chisels. I use the 1/4 and 3/8's on dovetails, the 1/2, and 3/4 for general paring and the 1 inch for flushing things to the surface. I probably use my 1/2" more than any other. The 1/8" chisel is for nitpicky cleanup tasks. These chisels handle 90% of my woodworking tasks. the On top of those, I have a couple of skew chisels, a couple of Japanese chisels for fine dovetailing, a fishtail chisel, a set of mortice chisels.... Having Tool Acquisition Syndrome does not make this an easy write.... Hi, I'm Robby and I am a tool addict It doesn't help that Lie-Nielsen has there tool event less than two miles from house every February. I have actually started giving some away to friends that are starting out on their woodworking journey.
  9. My fence hasn't been off the saw in years. My large air compressor tank sits just to the right of my tablesaw and limits the length of things on the right of the blade. The very few times I take the fence off, I either put it on the crossbars of the base or set it on my workbench.
  10. A waxed melamine or laminate surface will allow wood to glide easily. When I am getting ready to do a lot of sawing, I get the Johnson's paste wax and apply a coat. Sheet goods and lumber just glide over the laminte surface of my out feed table when waxed.
  11. This is a little late to the party but if you are interested in spring pressure at different heights, take the spring to your local shop that builds racing engines. They should have a spring tester that will go up to some pretty high tensions. You could ask them to make you a chart showing spring tension vs installed height. This is a pretty standard thing for racing valve trains. My little dragster engine was set for 750lbs at a 2" install height and checked out close to 2000 lbs at .750 inches of lift.
  12. I have a couple of very good Japanese chisels that I routinely sharpened with waterstones. I recently converted my sharpening routine to use DMT Dia-Sharp plates, finishing with a 8000-10000 grit waterstone and a strop for the final finish. I was thinking about giving my old waterstones to a beginning friend, but then thought about my Japanese chisels. I remember reading somewhere the diamond stones weren't recommended for Japanese chisels. Does anybody have any experience sharpening Japanese chisels with diamonds? Pros? Cons? Thanks!
  13. Hi, Dylder - you can carry a limited number of tools in you carry-on. I routinely carry a screwdriver and other small tools. Mine beaks down because you are limited to 7" length. I suggest that anyone check with TSA before taking tools in carry-on. Ironically, I was told you can now carry box cutters, the thing used to hijack the 9/11 flights. And the world just keepson spinning....
  14. Hi, chashint - How loud is your PCS without a blade? That would isolate the saw mechanism noise vs blade induced noise. With the stops near the blade, it could be contributing heavily to the noise. I would be curious to know what it is like without the blade. Interesting that you are using the WW2 option 1 blade. I have one and love it. It rips so much better than the standard blade while still crosscutting adequately.
  15. The only matching I worry about is the bright shiny sharp edge on my tools. There is where I want them to match! "...anti-engineer jokes...." Hey, wait! I resemble that category too!