Robby W

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Robby W last won the day on July 11

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About Robby W

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    Journeyman Poster
  • Birthday 07/24/1952

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    San Marcos, California
  • Woodworking Interests
    Hybrid woodworker. I like making all most anything.

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  1. Robby W


    Betcha it has bad bearings.
  2. Step 3 of my reorganization required me to make a new cart for my planer that has storage in it to hold the setting gauge and spare blades for the planner. My planner is a Delta 22-650 13" 2 HP cast iron planer that they sold as a "benchtop" planer, but it is a seriously heavy beast that does a very good job of planing. I bought the planer back around 1982. The choices back then were this planer, the original Makita bench top unit or big floor mount planers that cost a bundle, even for a 12" planer. So I went with this one and haven't regretted it. Someday, I am going to fit it with a helical head. My original stand for it was built out of 2x4 stock and actually was pretty good, except for two issues. One, it was too short. I had to bend down to run something through it, which got hard on my back after awhile, especially if it was heavy 8/4 stock. Two, it didn't have any storage and the way I made it, which, while really sturdy, wasn't conducive to adding drawers big enough to handle knives and such. Because this planer is so heavy, I decided to make it out of hard maple, with mortise and tenon joinery. The casters I picked up for it are 6" urethane units rated at 375 lbs each, which gives a total of 1500 lbs - serious overkill, but they would allow the stand to roll over obstacles in my shop without tipping the stand over or the wheels going flat from standing in one place over time. The only bad part is that they don't lock, so I will have to use wheel chocks, especially if I move it into my driveway. It is on a slant and more than once I have had to chase a tool when it started rolling on its own. I started with a base made from 4" wide 8/4 stock with half lap joints at the corners. With the casters clamping though the joints and plenty of glue, the joints aren't going to fail. I routed the mortises for the uprights and got a reminder which way the bit drags the router on the first one. I usually use a hollow chisel mortiser, but didn't have a big enough chisel and bit. I also drilled the holes for the casters, as one of the bolts would be under one of the uprights and needed to be installed before glue-up. I also fabricated the upper ring in a similar fashion. Next I cut the tenons on the uprights on my tablesaw and fit them to the mortises. The uprights are a bit of overkill, but I wanted to make sure they didn't rack. With the large tenons and the extra width and thickness of the uprights, they should be plenty strong. Fin Finally, I glued the base together and bolted the casters in place . The last step in fabricating the stand was to install the drawers and bottom. I chose to install two drawers (not that much to store for a planer!). I enclosed the sides and back with gray 3/4" melamine MDF to match my other cabinets and the planer. I fab'ed two drawers from 1/2" baltic birch sides and 1/4" baltic birch bottoms. Butt joints and brads were my exotic joinery for the drawers. The drawer fronts are screwed on and I added the two pulls that match the rest of my cabinets. Three coats of Sealcoat shellac sprayed from a can I wanted to get rid of finished the maple parts. That completed the stand. In this picture, you can see my planer on the old stand in the background. The last and hardest step was to get the planer bolted on top. I got my son and grandson to help me lift it on. That planer has to weight something like 250 lbs! It is a back buster. We set it on the stand. I removed the drawers and reached under to mark the bolt hole locations, then rotated the planer 45 degrees so I could drill the holes. There was no way I was going to remove and replace that beast. After twisting the planer back in place, I installed the bolts and that finished that up. The bed of the planer ended up at about 30" from the floor, which is just about where I wanted it. It is oriented the way it is so that I will be able to get into the drawers when it is in its final location. I had to clean the planer up. A couple of years of sitting behind a lumber pile, plus some visits from the resident mouse family left it covered in dust and the cast iron table with a thin film of rust. I wiped everything down with mineral spirits. I decided to try some CRC 3-36 that Fine Woodworking recommended as a rust preventative from one of their tests. Turns out that Home Depot carries it. It is also a penetrating lube, so I sprayed the table down with it and remove the rust film and spots with some Scotchbrite pads and resprayed with the CRC lube. Worked well for that part and I haven't seen any signs of rust on it since. If you look on the left side of the planer, you will see a chip collection gadget I fab'ed up. This planer didn't come with a dust scoop and by the time I had a dust collector, they no longer sold them, so I made this out of 1/2" baltic birch scraps. \When I first built it, the hose came straight out of it and, while it worked pretty well, I was always fighting with the hose. So I changed out the hose fitting with a flanged elbow and that solved the problem. It's not very pretty, but it works pretty well, only missing a tiny bit from each board. One thing that I really don't like about my current shop is that I have to unbury the jointer and planer to use them, so I tend to not use them very much. I have this good gear, but because it is such a pain to get it out, I tend to not bother. With the new shop layout, both will have a permanent place and will be connected to the dust system. Since I have an automatic starter for my DC that turns it on anytime I start a dust producing power tool, all I'll have to do is open the blast gate to use a tool. I intend to locate the gates so they are easy to get to. If anyone wants to see how the automatic start gadget is connected and how it works, check out the August, 2000 issue of Fine Woodworking, page 66. It paid for my dust collection system. Next up are some storage improvements. Thanks for following this.
  3. Treeslayer and Coop - Thanks. I hope to post the first three steps this weekend. Don't want to do it too quickly as I tend to be kind of wordy - don't want to bore everybody. I have already finished the sharpening cabinet, as you see above, the drawers for my power tool cabinet and the planer cart. I am working on the DC improvements this weekend, but probably won't finish them until next weekend. Then things will slow down as I start the rest of the work, but I hope to post a progress report every week. This is kind of a dream come true for me as I have been wanting to do this for about five years.
  4. OK. Dinner is done. Country fried steak with homemade white gravy. Yumm! Step 1 was to build a new cabinet to hold my sharpening equipment, bandsaw stuff and drill press supplies like bits, etc. I needed it to be smaller than the old cabinet so it would fit in the space between my workbench and bandsaw, with the dust collection gear behind it. I had 34 inches of width to work with, and about 18" of depth. I needed to incorporate an 8" grinder, a 6" buffer and my Worksharp 3000, which one of my son's gave me for Christmas and I have found great for working out bad nicks and prepping new chisels. I even use it for the final honing on my beater chisels. I also wanted to incorporate a Wolverine sharpening jig that I have had around for a bunch of years, but never got around to mounting it. The lathe tool sharpening holder presented a problem because it is over two feet long. The grinder and buffer would barely fit in the 34", so I had to figure something out there. There was no way I could get the buffer, grinder and Worksharp in a straight line. After thinking about it for awhile I came up with an answer. (Ever wake up in the middle of the night with an "Ah, ha!" moment?) I decided to go vertical with some of the mounting. First, I built a lower cabinet with drawers sized to fit the stuff that was to go in it, especially one drawer that would hold my Forstner bit set that I got from Woodcraft - good set by the way. It is just a standard cabinet made with gray melamine sides, top and fronts. I used plywood for the bottom as it was going to hold quite a bit of weight. Dado joints on the vertical sides transfer the weight from the cabinet to the bottom and thus the casters. Here is a picture of the bottom: It is just a basic cabinet with ball bearing drawer slides. I used strips of oak I had laying around to trim the edges. The drawer pulls are from a batch my wife bought me for Christmas - They are one one fancy thing in my shop - matching drawer pulls. All of the drawer are just butt joints with glue and brads. The fronts are screwed on. Nothing fancy, very utilitarian. Then I added a top on it to hold the equipment. I mounted the grinder and Worksharp on the top of the bottom section and the buffer on the upright I added. Hidden behind the Worksharp is a Wen drill sharpener I inherited from my father. Here is the finished product: I did have one problem. I originally used some light duty casters from Grizzley. They were rated at 75 lbs each. If you look carefully, the front left caster had failed. I replaced them with this caster from Home Depot. I have gotten to really like these. They hold a lot of weight without flattening or failing. So that is the story of the first step. I am happy with the cabinet and its functions.
  5. Things are finally falling into place to I can redo my shop. I have healed my body enough to handle the work and gotten enthusiasm back up, so time to charge into the work. There are a bunch of things that need to be done to get this in progress. Here is a list: 1. Build a new cabinet/work surface to replace my old one. It was built on a rotating top and just never worked out, Plus, I need some of the space back 2. Add storage for storing odd and ends. I have a power tool cabinet that I built several years ago that was supposed to have drawers for this, but they never got built. 3. Build a new cart for my planer. The old one, while it worked well, was too short and lacked storage for my planer stuff 4. Make a stand for a Super Dust Deputy I bought years ago and reconfigure my dust collection system around it. All of this will reduce some of the clutter in my shop to allow me to do the next steps: 5. Physically rearrange the shop, putting things in their new place. 6. Route new ductwork to the tools in their new location. The new layout makes this pretty easy. All of the ducts will be on the floor. I use ABS drain pipe for my ducts and it has worked very well. I added a Wynn filter to my dust collector, but it plugs really quickly. Once I get the cyclone in the system to remove most of the waste before the filter stage, this should be as much of a problem. It has kind of bothered me that I have five times the filter area, but half the suction because it clogs so easily. Hopefully, this fixes the issue. I still have the old 1 micron bad just in case. 7. Build a new workbench. Since I am getting up in age (in two years I will be 70 and retiring from my "real" job), this will probably be the last workbench I will make, at least for me. It is going to be a mix of styles, with a trestle base and a Roubo style top. I am planning on using the bracing provided by the rails in my current workbench as it has worked very well. I am thinking about shortening it a bit so it will better fit in my shop. I rarely have anything longer than 6 feet, so that is my criterial. I purchased a Lie-Nielsen tail vise after trying one at their tool event that was held near me. I really liked it and it doesn't look too hard to install. No need for Condor tails or such For the face vise, I am still undecided. I really like my Record 9 inch cast iron vise I have had for years. But I want something better for dovetailing and working the ends of boards, so I am also considering a leg vise. Either way, I am going to make a Moxen vise for much of my joinery. Time will tell. The bench is going to be completely of hard maple. I have already started collecting boards for it. I am going to keep my old bench so I have a flat surface to collect crap on that isn't my really workbench. 8. Finally, I am going to build a new tool cabinet. I am thinking kind of a cross between the Mike Pekovich and Matt Cremona, with a dash of my own tossed in. I am going to do some marquetry on the front to memorialize some of the big events in my life. Should be fun and something to stretch my skills a bit. I have already finished steps 1, 2 and 3 and am working on 4 the next few weekends. I will post the results after dinner My wife says it is getting cold. I look forward to your comments and ideas on this ride.
  6. You could try storing your hand tools in a box or closed cabinet and putting a vapor emitter rust preventative in there with them.
  7. Also, check to be sure the key in the drive pulley didn't come out. I had that happen recently. Fix is easy if you can find the old key. Otherwise, you will have to find one and the big box stores don't carry them anymore. Maybe Ace or Tractor Supply. I don't have those here and had to wait for a bearing supply house to open.
  8. That is pretty fancy. When I got my chronograph, it was one of the first. It came with two IR sensors that you had to mount. Kludged up something with some 1 x 2 for scraps. Yours is a lot nicer. I'm jealous!
  9. I suppose you have already considered this, but I'd you have a reasonably sized air compressor, think about a venturi pump. I have one that came in a kit I bought from on of the online veneering sites. I think it was joewoodworker. Anyway, the kit cane with all of the fittings and electrical parts. I added a switch, cord, electrical box and a couple of pieces of 4" PVC pipe with end caps. It pulls down to 5" easily, plenty good for veneering. The air runs for a few minutes as the bag is pulled down. Then it cycles.once every few minutes for a 20 seconds and shuts off again. Works like a champ. No oil or other maintenance. My compressor only cycles every few hours (60 gallon tank).
  10. Robby W

    plunge router

    Is the bearing pressed into the housing? Or, if the bearing spun in its recess, it could be that it created a burr that is preventing you from removing it. Maybe a puller of some type would solve the problem. I am saying this without seeing or ever seen the router in question, so my advice may be worth what it cost you.
  11. Yep. I let him know when I receive it. Everytime I use a tool from others, it triggers the memories associated with it. Every once in a while, I find myself whistling a time my Dad used to whistle. It usually happens when I enjoying myself working in the shop. When I realize it, I usually say: " Hi, Dad"!
  12. Got another part of my Father's Day gift from my son today. These little drop shipments are like Christmas over and over again. Veritas from Lee Valley. Seems like it will work ok. Won't win any style points, but will mark lines 
  13. I need to find a place to get spalted maple. I want to use some for some drawer fronts when I build my new tool cabinet. Any ideas?
  14. When you glue the top up, be sure to have the grain running in the same direction so you can plane it without worrying about grain direction. I also suggest you use a slightly sprung joint so you don't get splits on the glueline near the ends of the top. I also personally prefer that all boards be oriented with the rings in the same direction. That way, you can take the cup out of the top with a single screw at the center. Finally, with a top that big and thick, buy some good beer to have around when you have to get your buddies to help you move or flip it. It is going to weight several hundred pounds.
  15. Got the first of my father's day gift from my younger son: 1/2" dowel centers, a replacement wheel for my marking gauge ( a Cub Scout dropped it when we were making pinewood derby cars) and some rust erasers. I have an old set of Freud chisels that I bought way back in the day and they have a patina on them that has built up over the years. I find these have been good chisels and still use them regularly for rough work, even though my primary set is now Lie-Nielsen. Now I just have to wait for the striking knife and coping saw blades.