nwhomesteader

Members
  • Content Count

    30
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

5 Neutral

About nwhomesteader

  • Rank
    Apprentice Poster

Profile Information

  • Woodworking Interests
    woodworking, what else?

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Those are way overpriced. The 50" are like $65 each and 24" are $52 each. Home Depot has those for $45 and $40 respectively. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
  2. Meh, live and learn. It's good project wood I think. I might make some outdoor furniture and sell it to recoup some cost. Sent from my SM-T800 using Tapatalk
  3. I vote table saw as well. It seems faster and more efficient for making rails and styles in my experience. I went with the dewalt dado stack since it had really good reviews and after owning it, I would agree with those reviews. It's s quality set. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002ZU6X4/ref=sr_ph_1?qid=1462123220&sr=sr-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=dewalt+dado Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
  4. I also vote for a 2 stage cyclone system. Buy once and be happy with it for life. Keep your eyes open for one on Craigslist and you can find a good deal. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
  5. I would say just do it right the first time if you can manage it. It's such a waste of time and money to put in something that you think is temporary and just to get by until you can do it the proper way. You say your machines are in need of upgrading but why add a dust collection system that is in need of upgrading too? That just adds to the headache later. I have about a 1000 square foot shop and my first dust collector will hopefully be my last. I checked craigslist daily and eventually found a 2hp Oneida cyclone system with a nice leeson motor for $900. I went to an hvac supply place and bought 6 inch 26 Guage ducting for way cheaper than you'd expect. I probably spent $300 for all the pipe and fittings for I think 5 drops. It's been a dream to have. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
  6. Well I'm glad to hear that because I bought...a uh, a lot.... I figure I won't need wood for projects for a while [emoji12]. Trying out some BLO and poly finishes. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
  7. He said it will sink. Sent from my SM-T800 using Tapatalk Then why did he put it on his boat? [emoji12][emoji13][emoji848] Hahaha, I thought the same thing. I know floatation is more about water displacement than the floatiness of the wood but it is fairly IRONic....see what I did there?.... Sent from my SM-T800 using Tapatalk
  8. Also I found out the "Malaysian mahogany" is a misnomer. It's actually Meranti from the shorea tree (aka Philippine mahogany, luan, tangile, almon, etc). Anybody ever work with this stuff? I could only find one retailer selling it. http://www.edensaw.com/MainSite/Store1/StoreProducts/ProductList/1130 They have it listed at $5.43 bd/ft. I got it for $1.00 bd/ft. All the stuff I bought is 8/4 by 6, 8, and 10 inches. About 20 feet long. Was it worth it or did I get hosed? Sent from my SM-T800 using Tapatalk
  9. He said it will sink. Sent from my SM-T800 using Tapatalk
  10. Sorry I made that sound confusing. There was primarily what he called "Malaysian mahogany" and the two pieces of this "iron wood" which was seperate from the mahogany (and much much heavier). The mahogany was stenciled stating it was a Malaysian export. The iron wood I imagine was an export from the same area. Here's a picture with the iron wood on top compared to the mahogany. Thanks for any info! My camera did a much better job showing the color of the "iron wood" next to the mahogany. Sent from my SM-T800 using Tapatalk
  11. *edited my confusing wording. I bought it from a guy selling a lot of Malaysian mahogany. He had two boards seperate from the mahogany which he called iron wood and said he used it for rails on his boat. He also mentioned he thinks it comes from eucalyptus, I don't think he's right. What I do know is that it's incredibly dense, heavy, and hard. I cut this piece off an 8 foot board so I could joint and plane it. The pictures don't do it justice but it's a deep chocolate brown. The piece is 2"x5.5"x 11" and weighs over 5 lbs. It's like picking up a chunk of aluminum. Sent from my SM-T800 using Tapatalk
  12. I'd say the price you're willing to spend is really a matter of opinion. You'll have guys on both sides. If it feels right and you are happy with it, snatch it up. Or you'll kick yourself later for not acting fast enough. Do you feel that the guy is being honest and the saw looks like it's brand new? Just look it over real well and ask the guy to make it a conditional deal that the saw runs with no issues when you get it home. If you can plug it in at your house without unloading it, I'd do that. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
  13. That sounds like a mill to avoid for sure. Luckily I haven't seen any of that with the guy I've been going to. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
  14. I hear ya, and my question was answered. I understand most people are not planing a board down to half it's rough thickness, lol. It makes sense and is what i was thinking. I will likely find lumber closer in dimension to my final desired dimensions or wait for the bandsaw (the last large piece of machinery I've been looking for to add to the shop). And here's the thing, I don't have a problem dropping cash on some nice lumber of a different species than maple for a project when I know exactly what I'm building and I'm more confident in my ability so I know I won't be wasting much or screwing anything up. In the mean time, I've got a good source for rough lumber, some in slab form and air dried, some dimensional and kiln dried, primarily maple. I'll be finding projects to practice different joinery and milling using the stuff I can get for decent prices and not be terribly upset if I screw a piece up. I appreciate the constructive thoughts and knowledge from those with more or different experience than me. Sent from my SM-T800 using Tapatalk
  15. You keep saying "3x the price" but you're probably comparing apples to oranges. The stuff that you're getting from Unkle Cletus's Bakyard Wood Stoar is not the same quality material that you'll get from a reputable dealer. But being cheap is not against any law, so suit yourself. However, it may be worth your time and effort to take a road trip a couple times a year and load up on real wood from a real source, despite the cost. Woodworking is more fun with material that isn't a PITA from start to finish. Garbage lumber means more milling, more waste, and more boards that won't stay flat. I'm not sure why you are being condescending here. "Uncle cletus..."? Nice. If it makes me cheap to want a good deal on lumber and not spending a day driving around then I guess I'm cheap. I drive for a living, id rather spend time at home. Did I say something that you took personal? Or is it just the anonymity of the Internet that makes people want to be rude? I also don't understand why just because a guy mills his own lumber and doesn't have a retail store with s4s lumber, that it's an inferior product. I have a jointer and planer for a reason, so I can surface rough lumber. I wouldn't buy "garbage lumber". Seems to me that a retail store would have more overhead to cover and hence charge more. I'm just getting back into wood working and I'm not looking for exotic hard woods where I'll spend a paycheck for one project. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk