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Everything posted by nwhomesteader

  1. Those are way overpriced. The 50" are like $65 each and 24" are $52 each. Home Depot has those for $45 and $40 respectively. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
  2. Meh, live and learn. It's good project wood I think. I might make some outdoor furniture and sell it to recoup some cost. Sent from my SM-T800 using Tapatalk
  3. I vote table saw as well. It seems faster and more efficient for making rails and styles in my experience. I went with the dewalt dado stack since it had really good reviews and after owning it, I would agree with those reviews. It's s quality set. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002ZU6X4/ref=sr_ph_1?qid=1462123220&sr=sr-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=dewalt+dado Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
  4. I also vote for a 2 stage cyclone system. Buy once and be happy with it for life. Keep your eyes open for one on Craigslist and you can find a good deal. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
  5. I would say just do it right the first time if you can manage it. It's such a waste of time and money to put in something that you think is temporary and just to get by until you can do it the proper way. You say your machines are in need of upgrading but why add a dust collection system that is in need of upgrading too? That just adds to the headache later. I have about a 1000 square foot shop and my first dust collector will hopefully be my last. I checked craigslist daily and eventually found a 2hp Oneida cyclone system with a nice leeson motor for $900. I went to an hvac supply plac
  6. Well I'm glad to hear that because I bought...a uh, a lot.... I figure I won't need wood for projects for a while [emoji12]. Trying out some BLO and poly finishes. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
  7. He said it will sink. Sent from my SM-T800 using Tapatalk Then why did he put it on his boat? [emoji12][emoji13][emoji848] Hahaha, I thought the same thing. I know floatation is more about water displacement than the floatiness of the wood but it is fairly IRONic....see what I did there?.... Sent from my SM-T800 using Tapatalk
  8. Also I found out the "Malaysian mahogany" is a misnomer. It's actually Meranti from the shorea tree (aka Philippine mahogany, luan, tangile, almon, etc). Anybody ever work with this stuff? I could only find one retailer selling it. http://www.edensaw.com/MainSite/Store1/StoreProducts/ProductList/1130 They have it listed at $5.43 bd/ft. I got it for $1.00 bd/ft. All the stuff I bought is 8/4 by 6, 8, and 10 inches. About 20 feet long. Was it worth it or did I get hosed? Sent from my SM-T800 using Tapatalk
  9. He said it will sink. Sent from my SM-T800 using Tapatalk
  10. Sorry I made that sound confusing. There was primarily what he called "Malaysian mahogany" and the two pieces of this "iron wood" which was seperate from the mahogany (and much much heavier). The mahogany was stenciled stating it was a Malaysian export. The iron wood I imagine was an export from the same area. Here's a picture with the iron wood on top compared to the mahogany. Thanks for any info! My camera did a much better job showing the color of the "iron wood" next to the mahogany. Sent from my SM-T800 using Tapatalk
  11. *edited my confusing wording. I bought it from a guy selling a lot of Malaysian mahogany. He had two boards seperate from the mahogany which he called iron wood and said he used it for rails on his boat. He also mentioned he thinks it comes from eucalyptus, I don't think he's right. What I do know is that it's incredibly dense, heavy, and hard. I cut this piece off an 8 foot board so I could joint and plane it. The pictures don't do it justice but it's a deep chocolate brown. The piece is 2"x5.5"x 11" and weighs over 5 lbs. It's like picking up a chunk of aluminum.
  12. I'd say the price you're willing to spend is really a matter of opinion. You'll have guys on both sides. If it feels right and you are happy with it, snatch it up. Or you'll kick yourself later for not acting fast enough. Do you feel that the guy is being honest and the saw looks like it's brand new? Just look it over real well and ask the guy to make it a conditional deal that the saw runs with no issues when you get it home. If you can plug it in at your house without unloading it, I'd do that. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
  13. That sounds like a mill to avoid for sure. Luckily I haven't seen any of that with the guy I've been going to. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
  14. I hear ya, and my question was answered. I understand most people are not planing a board down to half it's rough thickness, lol. It makes sense and is what i was thinking. I will likely find lumber closer in dimension to my final desired dimensions or wait for the bandsaw (the last large piece of machinery I've been looking for to add to the shop). And here's the thing, I don't have a problem dropping cash on some nice lumber of a different species than maple for a project when I know exactly what I'm building and I'm more confident in my ability so I know I won't be wasting much or screw
  15. You keep saying "3x the price" but you're probably comparing apples to oranges. The stuff that you're getting from Unkle Cletus's Bakyard Wood Stoar is not the same quality material that you'll get from a reputable dealer. But being cheap is not against any law, so suit yourself. However, it may be worth your time and effort to take a road trip a couple times a year and load up on real wood from a real source, despite the cost. Woodworking is more fun with material that isn't a PITA from start to finish. Garbage lumber means more milling, more waste, and more boards that won't stay flat.
  16. Oakville washington, you can google that. I've done a fair bit of searching on Google and there's one place that sells hardwood in olympia 45 minutes away at 3x the price. There's a hardwood mill in chehalis, 45 minutes the other way who only sells by the semi truckload. Then there seattle or port Townsend which are about 1.5 to 2 hours away, also 3x the price and way farther. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
  17. Yes it has 2 feed rates. I'm very happy with it considering most people say not to expect finish quality out of stand planers. I did find a good deal on a performax 22-44 so I added that to the arsenal. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
  18. Update: I got my knives back from being sharpened. There was less tear out on the figured stuff but it still wasn't perfect. I managed to pick up some straight grain ash though and I'm VERY happy with the results of the cut on that and a few live edge slabs. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
  19. Just an update, the guy did have some 4/4 for the same $/bd ft but only ash. I picked up 4 boards to start on face frames. Everything else he had in maple was either 6/4 and figured or thicker slabs. I suppose I'll wait till I get a band saw to get into any of that. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
  20. Like I said, if there's something closer to the size I need, I'll buy it. It makes no sense to me to drive an hour and a half, wasting time and fuel to go to a store which sells hardwood for $6+ per board foot with limited selection vs driving 15 minutes where this guy sells for $2.50 and has tons. Sent from my SM-T800 using Tapatalk I've actually been using them for bedding for my chickens and goats. Sent from my SM-T800 using Tapatalk
  21. He has some stuff that is kiln dried and that's what I got. Anywhere from 5-9" wide and about 6' long. He also has hoards of slabs that are just air dried. That makes sense about the boards moving a lot when milling off that much material, I did wonder about that. It's a strange concern for me because it's purely about feeling wasteful. It has nothing to do with cost. This stuff was about $2.50 per board foot. Well under hardwood lumber store prices. I think I'm go there tomorrow and see if he has anything thinner Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
  22. I have a good source for 6/4 maple but no bandsaw to resaw anything. I'm not sure the guy mills thinner than 6/4 with his bandsaw mill. Is it excessive and wasteful to mill 6/4 stock down to 3/4" for face frames? What do most guys start with? Seems like a lot of planer shavings and wear and tear on blades but I guess I have to deal with what I have available. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
  23. Good advice, I'll keep that in mind. I was excited to send some boards through it and figured fir 2x4's couldn't hurt it if I'm going to send hard maple through it. The planer did come with a metal jig for setting the knives which I'm guessing should make it pretty quick and simple. I also have a One Way multi-guage for more precision setting. I seem to go for excess (within reason) when it comes to buying machinery because I don't want to outgrow something. Buy once cry once right? That's why I went right for the bigger planer, cyclone dust collector, PM drill press, etc. So I might spring
  24. I agree, and they did that on the first board I sent through which was a new clean 2x4 to test. The planer was new and no hint of sawdust on it but I question the knives. I guess I'll send them to be sharpened. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
  25. The planer Here are some pictures of the lines and tearout. Sort of difficult to see in the pictures but very easy to see raised ridges in person. The wood was clean and kiln dried. I know I've read if it's too dry that could cause problems. I don't have a moisture meter. Also I'm running the gear box on the slow feed rate. I am using dust collection. It's a 2hp cyclone system Sent from my SM-T800 using Tapatalk