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About woodsmoke

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  • Woodworking Interests
    Furniture, carving, boxes

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  1. Not planning on any side grinding. I would just go with a new wheel, but a new one in the store produced a thud too. Could it have been dropped while stocking the shelf? My grinder is not home made and has guards. I did more googling and the 'ring test' seems wide spread and accepted. Having tested 3 stones and found all to have failed is disturbing.
  2. Well stated Eric.. Thanks to the re-size tip, let me try to post a couple pics of what I was suggesting as an interesting style. This is not the best example, but just something I made. Working from a 2" x 3" photo required a lot of card board mock ups until the proportions were ok (with me).
  3. Scandinavian became popular in the 1960's and was considered modern. It is simple, maybe considered 'stick furniture', with sculptured lines (not joints) , and usually walnut with oiled finishes. Japanese has similar lines and simplicity, but with twists such as a table top where the support is not immediately evident (floating), and components that support each other but at cross planes. Now I'm confusing myself. LOL Sorry. I'll try to find examples. Here is a table I made from a small photo seen in "readers projects" in FWW.. Sorry again, being new here I have not figured out how to get past a size limit on a photo. Maybe later I'll figure it out. At any rate, it would be nice if there was a mag featuring this type work to feed our imaginations.
  4. I have my first grinding wheel set-up. It is a cobbled together very old motor and arbor head with two stones. I'm refurbishing it for my use. I saw a couple of utube clips that warn about using cracked wheels and test them by suspending loosely on a screw driver shaft and tapping with the handle end of a second screw driver. A good wheel should ring. A bad, or cracked on, will sound like a thud. Well, I tested my two which went thud, and a new one in the hardware store which went thud too. Is this a valid test, or is the ringing/not ringing due to many other conditions? What do you guys do? I would like to avoid a disintegrating wheel at speed. LOL
  5. Right, that would work for you Lee. My interest is more with a Japanese/Scandinavian modern style. Light Japanese (not their heavy stuff) is really different and pleasing to the eye. Not many mags carry anything like that. Even hard to find on the web.
  6. I have stacks and stacks of old mags, but now have dropped all but FWW. Recently added Woodcraft's mag that sucked when it first came out, but has improved greatly. But then I know the editor and several of the contributors. They are 1st class woodworkers. Pop WW was one of my favorites, but like others have said here, it is on a down hill slide. I just sent in for a script to Woodsmith. My biggest complaint is that all projects with most mags seem to be Shaker, Greene and Greene, or Mission. What is with that? They seem to avoid anything with a curve in it.
  7. I have a work bench with a butcher block top. I coated it with high gloss "Rock Hard Table Top Finish". When wanting to re-flatten the top, I had to work hard with a belt sander to get it off. The stuff is like iron, and very high gloss.
  8. Sorry, the head rest is so well fared that it looks glued up, making slat installation a challenge. Now I feel like a dope. LOL
  9. How are the back slats (spindles) to be installed? I have one idea, but rather than state it, I'll keep quiet and just ask. I know the answer will make me feel like a dope. The sculpturing looks fantastic.
  10. Notice the brass 1/8" bar has a tolerance of +\- .oo8"? That nay not matter if the error is constant the whole length.
  11. Gotcha, Thanks Tom. When I get one cobbled together, I'll send a photo.
  12. That last sentence lost me. We need those batteries. LOL
  13. Eric, the solid carbide look aggressive . I will work with a cylinder burr for a start and maybe try a solid with more experience. I saw the Arbortect cutters demo'd at the Baltimore show. Very impressive and hungry. My first and second (only ones) were difficult to sand the concaved part. A scorp will be a help. Actually I won a bid on eBay for a hook knife tonight which should make a nice addition to the arsonal. Is the Foredom unit large enough for shaping a Maloof rocker? That may be in the future . Any thoughts on a Wecheer unit? Is it better than a Foredom? thanks Shaneymack for the burr list. Ron
  14. Thanks Tom. now I have the mental image of what you did. very clever. Nice work. i'm going to build one.
  15. I plan to carve kitchen spoons, with possibly other styles later. I have some carving knives/chisels, with others on order for hand carving (no hatchet/axe work for me). I am also thinking of using power tools such as Foredam to rough out the pieces. What grit Kutzall burrs work best on hard wood? And is the Foredom a good choice; model? Thanks