Phil B

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Everything posted by Phil B

  1. +1 to the more teeth is better camp. I use an 80T 10" on my TS for plywood and get pretty good results. For better chipout control there are 3 things you can do: plywood blade (60 or 80T on a 10" blade). zero clearance insert. scribe the keeper side of the kerf with a knife. Blue tape can help but I find it a bit of a nuisance. Another way to improve chipout is to use higher quality plywood like baltic birch.
  2. Actually, this is a very interesting topic to me. When designing something I first think about the application/use, then ergonomics (if they apply). Then I do a google image search to see what's out there. I agree with dknapp34 - narrowing it in a number of ways gets you better results (though maybe not what you were thinking). I've slogged through pintrest and houzz but google image seems to give me more bang for the buck - I can scan through that a lot faster and pivots/tangents are a lot easier. I've pretty much given up on houzz because it's just too much work to narrow down. Pintrest isn't that far behind. For example "contemporary table" google search, click on images and you get hundreds of images that you can scan through quickly. Related images will give you more in that vein. What I like is it's very quick to scan through. To me it's all about quickly sifting though volumes of ideas to get one or two that I can examine in more detail. Then, of course, I find something that looks really neat and come up with a design based on it that all sorts of fun build possibilities. Draw with Sketchup, get all the joinery figured out and my wife says "oh no, I just want something really simple".
  3. Oh, you pushed my hot button. Every online store and a lot of brick-n-mortars, too. It seems to get worse every year. Big banner "SAVE XX% NOW STORE WIDE", small print "some restrictions apply". In really, a LOT OF RESTRICTIONS APPLY, store wide. Their hope is you get so committed to the product that you complete the transaction anyway. And lately, I've been seeing "sales event" ads where it seems like the same old small discounts apply - nothing new. I guess they hope we are being stupid - "sales event" changes everything. So, I almost never shop based on "sale now" ads. When I want something, I go price comparing and then make a decision based on total cost. If it's not urgent, I'll just bide my time waiting a better deal. By the way, a trick. Register/log in, drop the item in your cart and then leave. They may send you a discount code or some other offer to get you to complete the transaction. Doesn't always happen but sometimes.
  4. A used DW735 usually goes for a pretty high percentage of its list price. 500 is not unusual, I've seen people trying to sell them on CL for $600. If you really want a 735, best to just buy it new. You'll get old waiting for a good auction price on that model. But then again, you never know. I've heard a story of a guy that got a DW735 still in the box from a widow for 250. If true, then the guy who bought it is a lowlife but deal do happen. I originally wanted a 735 and was keeping an eye on the local CL and auctions. Up came a Ridgid bench top planer that I picked up for $140. I figured it would hold me until a decent deal on a 735 came along. Instead, I found a 15" griz planer for $300 and change. Sold the ridgid for $200 (and he got a deal). I dropped a shelix into it and haven't looked back. The lessons? Patience is a virtue and buying used at the right time has little downside as long as you do your homework. Here's a blog that touches on this topic.
  5. Hi, there was a problem with 32 bit windows that Rob, the author, fixed. version 0.8.2 should run on all versions of Windows from XP forward. As to other requirements, if Windows runs, then pyRouterJig should run, too. Rob is very proactive in fixing problems so let him know and you'll probably see a new version pretty soon.
  6. Rob Lowrie created pyRouterJig, a really powerful application for making custom templates for the Incra LS positioner. I wrote this tutorial to show how to use it. Custom Box Joints using the Incra LS SystemBelow you will find a picture of a box made with a custom template. All the box joint fingers are the same size. The tutorial explains how to do that.
  7. @David, bwahaha +1 for FWW. Yeah, they do recycle projects, often bringing them forward for newer tools. I like their tips as well. It has to be hard coming up with something that has never been done before. Their tool reviews are worthwhile. Frankly, I like the ads as well. Let's me see what's out there. That said, the archive suggestion is a good one.
  8. Congrats. There is something oh so satisfying about going from a cramped little space to one that's a lot bigger. I went from two tiny bays that had a huge chimney in the middle to a 3 bay space. The old space was utterly clumsy to work in. The new shop was like heaven for a while. Then I got more stuff and now I think it's too small. Am spend a lot of time building storage and looking longingly at the rest of the building... Ha ha.
  9. It's pretty well accepted that a dado blade is a needed shop tool and I own one (DeWalt 8") but I have a different point of view. I've stopped using mine for a number of reasons: It's tedious and time consuming to set up. It takes a while to get it dialed in for a perfect dado fit. It ties up my table saw away while it's mounted. There are much faster and easier options for almost every use. Dados for cabinetry - I use an exact width dado jig with a router. No test cuts needed and I'm done before the dado blade would have been set up. Perfect fit, every time. Plus, I bring the tool to the work piece, not the other way around. That's a big deal for larger pieces. Tenons - I use what FWW calls "The Speed Tenon" with a standard crosscut blade on my table saw. Very fast and perfect tenons every time. Rabbets - router or router table depending on size of the work piece. Tying up the TS is a big issue for me. If I muff a dado and have to cut a new piece, not having the table saw available means I have to take the dado off, put the regular blade on, cut the replacement piece and then put the dado back on. I can't say I'll never use it but it's just not one of my go to tools.
  10. I got this from harbor freight and it works surprisingly well. All my incoming wood now gets a quick wave of the wand... Of course, just owning a metal detector means that nails and screws disappear...
  11. Me too but usually, some one else provides the nail. One time, it was Home Depot, generous souls that they are. (cut a new 2x4 with my SCMS, didn't hear anything but the cuts got downright bad. Traced it back, found half of a nail)
  12. Yeah, they're byrds. Congrats! That was one hellofva deal. The 15" shelix head is about $600 new and the 8" jointer is about $400. So just on those, you are $800 bucks ahead. The jointer is pretty simple. The planer a bit more complex.. I would first get the manuals - griz has them on their web site Now, inspect each cutter. Look for damage. Note if it's been rotated or not. I think the ones you showed haven't though It's hard to tell orientation from your picture. With the manuals in hand, take a look at the machines for obvious signs of wear and damage. On the planer, pay attention to the gearbox. Look for leakage. Then check to see how much oil is in the gearbox (use a qtip to see what the oil level is). Frankly, I wouldn't replace bearings unless you had another reason to go into the machine or are a great mechanic. Especially the planer - it's a bear of a job because some of them are in the gearbox. Once you get power, run the machines briefly, listen for anything other than smooth motor noises. I'm guessing since they came from a cabinet shop, they are likely in ok shape - shops tend to maintain their machines but you never know 100%. Then go through the adjust/alignment procedures given in the manuals. I bought a 15" griz planer at auction and dropped a shelix into it. Had to take the gearbox apart to do it but it's working great. I replaced the bearings but the ones I pulled were in really great shape. With the shelix you can plane highly figured wood and even knots. Oh, and invest in a metal detector - nothing ruins your day like running a screw or nail through the planer.
  13. I agree that some sort of plywood is best for this application. It's not that wood doesn't like heat (to a point) but rather wood expands and contracts based on it's moisture content. Warmer air can carry more moisture and you are moving a lot of air to cool the electronics. This could dry (and shrink) your wood pretty significantly. Also, the advantage of metal cases is that they help to conduct heat and wood is a fairly good insulator so you may need to move more air - kind of in opposition to your silent PC desire.
  14. Man, that's too bad. Minwax wipe on poly is my go to finish. Dries hard and clear. incredibly forgiving. Really brings out cherry and walnut. Also, it has very low odor so I'm not sure what kind of VOCs it has. I've yet to find a water based poly that comes close.
  15. second update fixed now. sorry for the problems.
  16. Worked yesterday but I get a 404 also. I'll check it out. sorry for the problem. quick update: Temp link for the windows version https://github.com/lowrie/pyRouterJig/releases Still haven't heard what the issue was. There is a small update coming soon but it's very usable now.
  17. If you own an Incra LS Positioner, you know the power of templates to make really precise box and dovetail joints. Now, you can design your own templates. The genesis of this came about because several of us wanted to make box joints where one finger was a saw kerf wider so that when we cut the top off the box, all the fingers would be the same size. Rob Lowrie, the author of the software, took it one step farther and made it possible to create arbitrary templates. These will work with any Incra positioner and even the old Join Tech IPM. It supports double and double-double joints. It also provides a template for making clamping cauls. Works on Macs and Windows. In the first picture you can see a wide double-double box joint, in the second picture a 1/4" box joint with one finger 1/8" wider and in the third a double box joint. These are just a small sample of the possibilities. And the best part? It's free! http://lowrie.github.io/pyRouterJig/ We will be providing some tutorials in the new future but the SW is pretty easy to use. Try it!
  18. Plus +100 on the magnetic switch. It's a very good safety upgrade. It would be a bad thing for the power go off in the middle of cutting something. It would be a lot worse if the saw started up when the power comes back, making for a potentially hazardous situation. Griz has a lot of choices.
  19. I have a PC 7518 motor, a JessEm Mast-R-Lift II (with the incra clean sweep rings), an Incra LS25 positioner and a wixey height gauge. It's in a table of my own design. I love love love this configuration. Super fast setup, precise height positioning, precise fence positioning. Amazing versatility with the Incra fence. With the new template creation software, Lots of cool joinery is possible. If my RT vanished tomorrow, I would get EXACTLY the same set up, even if the prices were doubled.
  20. A different perspective on making tenons. I have a griz tenon jig (basically a delta clone) that I got as part of a package deal of used tools. I tried to use it and hated every moment. For me, holding the board vertical was the worst. I dreaded making tenons. Then I saw the speed tenon. The griz now gathers dust and I don't even bother with using a dado blade. Set up is way fast and with a little care (uniform pressure against the fence) my shoulders are precise and aligned. I do cut a number of kerfs before cleaning the face of the tenon. I also try to remove small amount of material at a time. But the result is perfect tenons every time.
  21. I like the banding you did. I've made my own and used commercial. Will probably use commercial for the next one. Check out rockler, woodcraft and http://www.inlaybanding.com/ Lots of different choices.
  22. I've had several disc sanders and basically hated them all. Spins too fast - too aggressive wood removal, too small contact area and it's easy to burn your wood. About 6 months ago I got the ridgid oscillating belt sander for about $200 and it works wonders. Much more gentle removal and no burning of the wood. I can't say the sander is a super high quality product but it's good enough. Lots of little issues and I had to make my own dust extraction set up. I expect it will last a couple of years and then I'll just buy a new one. Yeah, ridgid has a "life time guarantee" but you really have to jump through hoops so I discount it in my mind to 0.
  23. I have that saw/fence and don't have the problem. I looked at the manual but didn't see any obvious adjustment procedures. I'd look at the fence adjustment plate (#200) to see if there is something that could be done there. Also, check to make sure the bearing pads aren't missing (#130). It's also possible that the holes for the cam pivot bolt (ref # 157) are worn or simply drilled wrong. Maybe shimming under the fence adjustment plate would do it. But, call them. My experience with Griz is they will take care of you. I'd like to hear what the fix is.
  24. The problem I have heard from combo planer/jointer owners is that setup time is an issue. For me, that would be a killer. To me, unnecessary set up time is "wasted effort". That's why I own separates - jointer and planer. My work flow with rough lumber is joint, plane, resaw, joint, plane, saw Sometimes I skip the first joint/plane cycle if the wood is pretty flat and clean to start with. Having to switch between jointing and planing on a combo would drive me nuts. That's why I avoid using a dado blade in the table saw - way too much setup time. And as to helicals, +100,000 I switched a 15" griz planer to a shelix and would never go back. It does a beautiful job on figured grain and doesn't assault my eardrums. It even does a sweet job on knots. My next planer will have one too. But watch out for that cheapo crop of HSS helicals that seem to be popping up. Better to save your coins for carbide.
  25. yeah, I agree that a curved front would look nice and actually thought about it. Even drew out plans in SU but wasn't super confident in my M&T joinery at that point so opted for a lower risk approach. I'm to the point now where I would give something like that a try. As for live edge - I love it though it seems to be quite popular these days. I worry about it being a bit of a fad. Slabs in my neck-o-the-woods are ridiculously pricey.