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About trialbyfire

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  1. I work for a general contractor in Texas on the project management side of things. And I can tell you for a fact, general contractors need more people that can drive a nail, set a form, hang a door, etc. At this point we would even love to have someone that is just willing to show up and work with out complaining. Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
  2. Thanks y'all. I don't think I'm gonna go with this design but always glad to read y'all's thoughts. Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
  3. While I don't think it would. I would like to pose this question to those of you that know a lot more about wood movement than I. The arrows indicate grain and you can assume each strip is 2" or 3" wide. The more I look at it the more it kinda rubs me the wrong way but it was fun figure out how to get a harringbone to go 4 directions. Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
  4. I watched Marc's videos on the steamer trunk for the first time this past weekend. I somehow missed them but I'm glad I watched them. What do you think was the hardest/trickiest part aside from forcing the mdf to bend to your will? Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
  5. @knotscott I didn't pick up the saw because the saw did t have a riving knife and because I dont have the money or time right now to run the required 220. And I'm still trying to get rid of my radial arm saw and other tools that didnt make the cut when I did my last purge. Anyone wanna buy a radial arm saw? Lol. Or does anyone know of a good cause/charity that takes used tools that still work? Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
  6. @knotscott I really like your setup. Would you mind telling me what you like and what you would do differently if you could? I've been mulling over putting a cabinet saw on wheels and marrying and router table to the end similar to what you did. Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
  7. Decided against picking up the saw. Thank y'all for your responses. Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
  8. Found this saw on Craigslist. Cabinet saws usually don't pop up often around me. Seller also sent me this picture of the label I would need to run 220 but that can be done. What are y'all's thoughts? Save up for a new one with a router table at the end (prolly one of the Jets) or jump on this grenade? From the pictures on cl it looks like it was used in a cabinet shop of sorts. Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
  9. I use the Gorilla Wood Glue. It gives me enough open time and isn't terribly runny. I actually like it better thank TB II. It seems to not slip as much, although given the opportunity to it will. Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
  10. @Da Hammer I have that saw as well and have the same plans as you (someday). What I had thought of was "sacrificing" the ~18" (I think) from the face of the fence to the tip of the slides and just making the counter deeper. Then use the areas to the left and right of the area taken by the saw as cubbies or shelves. This provides more storage and allows the saw to be used as you had planned. I hope I explained that well enough...[emoji19] it makes sense in my head. [emoji41] Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
  11. That's what I'm using to fix my mistake now and how I initially sharpened my chisels. Im pretty sure I was scooping interest of stroking. After I fix it I will definitely go slowing during my free hand tune ups. Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk If you're imagining it so am I lol Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
  12. This one is for the woodworkers new to hand tools like me. I have managed to dog-ear my 1/4" & 1/2" chisels. I most likely did this with over zealous and sloppy sharpening techniques. BUT! I have found a semi quicker way of regrinding the bevels true. I have found that if I make X number of swipes on my coarsest grit, then skip a grit and do X number of passes on that grit and continue to go back and forth. I make much faster progress than just grinding it out on my coarsest grit. Occasionally I will go up to a polishing grit to really check my progress as sometimes it's difficult to see just how much longer I have to pay for my sharpening sins. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong but I think this works because I am making the non-dog-eared portion of the bevel flatter by swapping to the less coarse grit which makes it easier to for the coarser grit to do its thing. Is that about right? Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk I made it this far in about 30-45 minutes. For reference the true area was only about half that size when I started the technique above. Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
  13. Your chairs are looking awesome per usual and they aren't even done yet. It may be a little early for this discission but how pointy at you going to leave the raised portion between the thighs? The way it looks now looks kinda cool but has a potential for a free prostate exam perhaps. Are you planning on just rounding it over like a saddle horn or more of a gently rolling hill? Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
  14. I work for a GC and on the job i just finished the cabinet guys refused to make a cabinet wider than 36" without being specifically told to. This was for shelf sag (nice clear maple 3/4 ply) and for the counter top span. I don't know if you have gotten this far in your design but they would make two 24" cabinets and screw them together. These cabinets would have 3"-4" pieces 'framing' the outline of each cabinet with corner supports and then they used ply under the entire top. To attach the top they liquid nailed and used slotted screws to the 'picture framing'. That is a commercial construction example but I have learned the things they do they do to limit their warranty calls. Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
  15. I use mine for breaking down material but I have used it several times for final cuts as well. The first time I used it I set it to the 'correct' measurement and when I double checked it against my line on the plywood I noticed the same thing mentioned by OP. I just don't use the out of whack scale and only use it for making a parallel cut to the fence edge. It can be kind of a pain lining up the blade on the correct side of my mark but with some lighting improvements and some practice/repetition it will make a parallel cut with minor effort. I would give 3/5 stars. Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk