Jordan Gatenby

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About Jordan Gatenby

  • Birthday February 27

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  • Location
    Orlando, FL
  • Woodworking Interests
    Luthier, furniture builds

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  1. I was using my Leigh Super 12 (for the first time). It's there a good video that shows how to add wedges to dovetails?
  2. Thanks all... I think the gaps look worse then they are due to the blow out. These were machine cut and my set up wasn't dialed in perfectly on this side - despite running through several practice pieces. There is no wiggle at all so, I'm guessing it is strong enough. Do you think it's worth adding some wedges?
  3. Hi All, I've just finished dovetailing a case that I will use at a tool cabinet. After dry fitting, some the the dovetails are gappy (others are dead on) and one corner of the case is out of square - about an 8th inch. It looks like one of the case sides bowed on me. Admittedly, this tool cabinet is a "learning project" but, I've added photos of the offending dovetails and out of square corner. Being this is shop furniture, I've not too concerned about the appearance but, do either of these issues create structural problem? I will store all of my hand tools in it and I'd rather not have them crash to the ground after a week or so on the wall. Thanks! Jordan
  4. Got it... when you say "a space you're living in" do you mean don't varnish in your bedroom or don't varnish is your house at all? thanks
  5. Hello! I am planning to use Epifanes Clear Varnish on an upcoming project. The directions indicate varnishing indoors is ideal. How nasty is this stuff? What kind of protection is needed? If I use it indoors, am I dooming me and my family to a future of horrible lung conditions ;-)? thanks, Jordan
  6. OK! glad to hear it is a crapshoot because I could not understand my only some had a solid connection. I'm thinking toggle bolt might be a better choice?
  7. Hello! I just installed a lumber rack in my garage into a cinderblock wall. 3 of 6 tapcons snugged up really well the other 3 are in pretty solid but they still spin. Is this lumber rack in danger of crashing to the ground at any moment or is what I have sufficient? Thanks! Jordan
  8. Hello, I've noticed in many TWW videos Marc's West System Epoxy has a dark caramel color. I just started using the same stuff and mine is pretty much clear. Is he using some kind of pigment or additive? I am filling some checking in some old cherry and I'd prefer to use something that matched the color of the board rather then clear. Thanks!
  9. Thanks! Is ripping on the table saw best? Any safety concerns with ripping a cupped board?
  10. Hello! I am working with a pretty wide old cherry board (about 10 inches). The board has a pretty bad cup in it, but I can't loose too much thickness. Does anyone have any method that could help here? Could ripping the board into smaller widths and doing a panel glue up help? I could make it a design element :). Thanks, Jordan
  11. Hello! I posted this question on the Guild FB page so, apologies if this is a repeat. I finally have the top on the base (nothing fastened yet). I noticed a fairly significant dip on the front part of the back slab only on the leg vice side. I ran a straight edge across the entire width in that area and estimate the dip to be 1/8th of an inch at the deepest point. The tail vice side is pretty flat. Here are my options as I see them. Bring the entire bench down by 1/8th to match the low point or shim. I experimented with some shims I have lying around and I am able to reduce the dip quite a bit by shimming the left upper short rail and the rear left leg mortise. It's a lot of shimming and I'm not sure if this is ill-advised and thought I should leverage the wisdom of crowds. As always, thanks for the advice!
  12. Thanks for the tips! What I ended up doing is taking a small chisel and shaving around the circumference of the hole to provide a countersink. It seems to have worked well
  13. Hello! I am installing the acetal bushing for the Benchcrafted leg vice in my bench. I am going to use 1/4-20 bolts for the installation (as Marc did) but the bolt head sticks a little proud of the bushing and the bushing's mortise. My question... how can I widen the space in the bushing that is meant for the screw head to accept the slightly larger bolt head? I have considered a file or countersink bit but, I am relatively new at this and could easily see myself ruining the entire bushing or worse. Any ideas? thanks!!