Curtis

Members
  • Content Count

    119
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

39 Neutral

About Curtis

  • Rank
    Apprentice Poster

Profile Information

  • Woodworking Interests
    Doors Furniture Cabinets

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Soffit rebuild and new gutters almost done. Excited to share some pics when I am done, so thanks again for the help above. Helped tremendously. Quick question, what is this corner return section is referred to (image attached)? It looks like a simple box with a gutter on it from below, but I have quickly realized its a little more complex from above with how it ties into the crown , siding and flashing. Previously the inlay gutter was simply covered in a piece of lead. But this area was a reason for some water intrusion in the original home. So hoping to try and do it right
  2. Tom, quick question if you happen to see this.....just wondering what you like to level the fascia board in reference to. i.e. drip edge, shingle line, window trim, siding? etc. I ran a laser level line just to see, and over 20 ft, the roof egde corner to corner, there is about 1 1/4" difference so definitely can't go off that Thanks again. I also changed a bit how I am doing the sub fascia. The rafter tails are pretty wavy, at each tail I am installing individual blocking (2x6 turned 90 deg, so i dont have to screw into end grain) at each rafter tail, that I can a
  3. Thanks guys! Really appreciate it. And Tom, yes the Fascia board or Sub Fascia and nailer should say 2x. Don't know why I put 1x, I think I meant that for the Fascia. It looks pretty straightforward, Im guessing I will spend most of my time getting up to the second floor scaffolding and always forgetting something and having to go back down :).
  4. Not exactly woodworking so hopefully off-topic is the best place for this. My 1910 home has original copper integral/inlay gutters but the molding that supports the gutter is rotting, the mitered corners are way open, and much of the soffits underneath have rot and decay and last summer we were the winners of a giant paper wast nest in the attic because of this. I am planning on rebuilding the soffits (while I home :). And was wondering if you guys/gals think my approach is sound? I will attach a drawing set. But basically I need to add a Sub Fascia so am planning to trim dow
  5. How do cabinet makers attach a decorative frame/panel end panel to the plywood carcass? Mine is a traditional shaker tongue/groove frame/panel door like build (poplar stiles and rails) with 1/4 birch ply as the panel. If I glue it, is there enough wood movement that it would start to break apart the top veneer of the plywood? Should I just "hang it" on the carcass, or nail? I have attach sketch up image. Yellow is plywood. Thanks for the help.
  6. Just wanted to update everyone. Ended up being ball bearing issue and since it was practically new, Supermax (ahem Laguna) is giving me a brand new one. Im glad I bought it from my local woodcraft as I went in, inspected inspected one on the floor , showed them a few videos and they were helpful in making sure the unit was replaced. So now just have to get this sucker up my basement steps and into the car and exchange it.
  7. This is my bet. I have tightened everything they asked me to tighten and it does it with paper on or off. My biggest concern is that the noise also comes with a wobbles which obviously would affect accuracy and consistency. Agreed, I want a new one. Guy from Suoermax on the phone wants me to try all these fixes, seriously....I have put 8 board feet through this.
  8. I'm guessing the drum is out of balance?. I noticed inside the drum there are small black weights stuck in there which I'm guessing were used to balance the drum? Does yours have much vibrattion when running ? Mine doesn't pass the nickel test. I can't hear the belt conveyor motor until I shut off the drum motor It does continue to rattle under load. And I am def old enough to have had a topps baseball card in my spokes Thanks everyone
  9. Okay, thanks. Ill check the set screws but I definitely just sent off the vid to Supermax (ahem Laguna).
  10. It was doing with the sandpaper in, i took it off to see if it was the paper, but it was still doing the rattle shown above.
  11. I know a few people on here have drum sanders and specifically the supermax's. I just picked up a 16-32 last weekend and it has a noticeable rattle. Is this sound troubling to those who have one...or normal? Thanks! Here's a link to a video of the rattle
  12. Hung a new door in an old frame this weekend that originally didn't have weatherstripping. I thought I would just pop off the stops, cut them back 1/2", run them through the table saw to create the needed 1/8" x 3/8" deep kerf cut....but then realized the stops and jamb are the same piece of wood !. Any ideas on the best way to cut a flush 1/8" kerf along the stop that's 3/8 deep. I was thinking to use my multi-tool, using flush cut bit make a groove and then use a grout attachment to widen to 1/8"? Anyone have better ideas??? Thanks !
  13. just a quickie Im finishing up a sapelle entry door project and final piece is the sill. Should I put kerf lines in the bottom?? I have seen some with , some without. The one closest to the edge im guessing is the drip edge and the ones throughout the body are for sealant to settle in?
  14. And the results are in...sold it three days after posting for 600. Ended up w a 8" grizzly w shelix and 76 bed for 800. 200 dollar upgrade. So not too bad. Thanks for the help everyone.
  15. This one just sold for 472$ in Georgia. Little rusty ....