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About Curtis

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    Doors Furniture Cabinets

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  1. Bunkbed update. Thanks for the help everyone. This sucker is rock solid. Main beam connections are joined using basically big Loose tenons. Mitered boxes are reinforced with 6mm dominos and were made from decent quality orange box store poplar ply. The larger partitions are framed inside with 2x lumber. Railing/stairs made from some CVG Doug Fir. Stairs are def not comfy to use, as noted above,,,but my wife liked the look of these stairs better and was worried about my daughter stair climbing comfort Finally, painted with Target Coatings EM6500 White. HVLPd. Its not really fine WW but I couldn't help but treat it that way.
  2. Hmm. I originally wanted to do this, but thought I would have to inset the weight bearing beam like an 1/8 to make, in effect, the mortise and I wanted it to be seamless....but your comment made me rethink, maybe it is just an open notch on the outside (like image attached)? ? the other reason for some meat in the beam is that i was gonna throw some big dominos in there that connect to the vert structures. thanks for the help!
  3. After calculating for wood movement, seems like width is not big enough to worry about but I should leave a small gap in height. ? Does this sound right? These calculations are for rel humidity New house does not have AC. Alder, red: will shrink 0.016 inches in thickness and 0.08 inches in widthFinal dimensions will be 1.984 x 5.92 ....
  4. Can I put a (big) loose tenon ( that is 2 pieces of 3/4 ply and 1 piece of 5/8 hardwood laminated together) into the open end of my mitered plywood box beam constructed of plywood. would the seasonal wood movement of the 5/8 hardwood be enough to cause trouble? the tenon is 2 1/8" thick x 6 5/8" x 4" inches deep. I am using these for connecting the main horizontal beams to the corner posts in the bunk bed. the boxes are now constructed using 6mm dominos every ten inches along the miter.
  5. Looooong miters. How would you guys or gals do long miters on 3/4 ply (as seen in the drawing, some are between 6-8ft)? All the member/ "boxes" for the bunk bed will have miter'd joints to keep seamless. I am going to use an angled loose tenon for structure. I am either going to run a groove the whole length or just use my domino and cut down my angle stock like mini angled dominos. Or should I get a lock miter bit? but for the long miters i have found the table saw fine, but a little wobbly because any movement in the sheet up or down, creates inconsistencies in the angle. but since its going to be sanded and painted, should be fine. more thinking about the larger sheets that are roughly 4x8 sheets with a mitered corners.
  6. Woah, good point. I never thought of that (wonder why Yeah, my 5x5 sheets at my yard is similar price. But for some reason the 4x8 sheets are sky high. They must be like A quality on both sides like you mention. I was in such shock I didnt ask why.
  7. After your comment, I thought, yeah BB would be real nice to that stuff. Use 5'x5' sheets all the time, called my yard, 125$ per sheet!!!!!!!! yowza. 45$ sheet HD poplar ply made in usa, here i come
  8. Thanks everyone for the advice, tons of help. After comments and thinking not only about the boxes, but also securing them to walls/ceiling and having some good meat to use my domino xl on, im going on a mix of 2x's wrapped in ply and some just ply boxes. im also doing keyed miter splines,,,,,bc ..overkill and i like using my flush cut saw im sure some things will change during instal. And the railing design in the pick is def against recs of consumer protection, so my top railing will cover the whole side and i may end up with two. for the safety po po's . of course, my daughter will be using it as a diving board no matter what i do, so hey.
  9. LOL, thats really what i have been wrestling with...what tool can i say i need....been looking at a shooting plane or no 4 smoother you know, to make everything smooth!
  10. Ive been given my next," keep my wife happy and letting me buy tools" project ! Built In bunk beds for the kiddos room. For the attached design, would plywood box construction be enough for this structure, or would you do a 2x4 framing wrapped in plywood? Thanks for the help! And back to your "real" woodworking And hey, the stairs and handrails get to have some decent joinery!
  11. Im trying my hand at making some window sashes. Material thickness is just under 1 3/4". Just wondering if anyone has preferred sash router bits they prefer. Ive been shopping around but not sure which have good lifespan and cut well. I was looking at whiteside and infinity but open to any suggestions. Thanks!
  12. Curtis

    Edge banding tape thickness

    Thanks for the quick reply. I think I will look for some unfinished. Hopefully all goes well Haven't used an iron since my wedding !
  13. I have to order some edge banding tape last minute for a project but need to build ahead before it arrives. What is the general thickness of something like this maple edge banding tape..1/8, 1/16? Thanks!
  14. Quick bump to this topic. Im making a single entry door and it is a frame/panel design. When you do the glue up, how do you prevent glue from the frame joints sneaking out into the corner near the panel, thereby seizing the panel? Or should I treat the panel in someway, wax or finish to prevent the glue from locking it tight?
  15. Definitely four season, Im in New England. So we will see how they hold up. They don't get direct sun which is good for not getting bleached but bad for drying out. Its weatherstripped inside and I will be adding an astragal with weather stripping soon for the middle gap. Im custom making adjustable bottom sills so the bottoms are sealed up as well. You can't see it but there is a mortised bottom sweep.