Curtis

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About Curtis

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  • Woodworking Interests
    Doors Furniture Cabinets

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  1. And the results are in...sold it three days after posting for 600. Ended up w a 8" grizzly w shelix and 76 bed for 800. 200 dollar upgrade. So not too bad. Thanks for the help everyone.
  2. This one just sold for 472$ in Georgia. Little rusty ....
  3. Aaaaaand, an 8 griz with helical, parallelagram 76 in bed pops up on clist now for 850. delta is going on the block tonight .
  4. I've been thinking of upgrading my jointer to get one with longer beds. I've been making more doors and would love an 84" in bed. Anyway, any ideas on what I could sell this for. Runs great. Has a 1hp motor, currently wired for 120v but can be rewired for 220 if needed. 8" wide. Thx
  5. Sweet, thanks guys. And I have been using Lexel based on wdwerkers rec when i was sealing windows last year so will use it for this too! Im ignorant on the differences between some caulk, what is Lexel vs silicone?
  6. A year later I am finishing the piece to my carriage door build project,,,finally installing the sills. Just wondering how people recommend attaching the sill to the concrete slab. The sill is 5/4 Sapelle. I was thinking of using an epoxy to seal the bottom, then just using silcone sealant and bolting it down using sleeve anchors. This way it would be removable if need be. There are two 93 inch long sills, 6 in deep.
  7. I don't know their gameplan (Rugby) but they definitely decided walk in buyers were a waste of their time, they don't bother to keep inventory, straight up refuse to post prices, and the guys in the yard don't know them and they cut way back on species offered. They also randomly have three stainless kitchen sinks in the middle of all the rough lumber stacks for sale. So weird. This was my go to because it was right on the way to/from work. And they used to carry fantastic 8/4 tight Clear vert grain Doug Fir that I liked making doors out of
  8. After moving to RI five years ago I quickly found and used a Downes and Reader in Stoughton, MA. Recently they were purchased by Rugby and their supply and prices are frustratingly erratic. I am looking for dealer/lumbar yard recs from anyone in the New England area. I am near Providence but work up in Dedham, MA. So anything near Boston or South of Providence works for me. I use mostly domestic hardwoods/softwoods and prefer rough as I do my own milling. Thanks for the help.
  9. Selling my Jessem Table Saw Guides - I used them for a specific project of long mitered rips on the TS that needed to be as accurate as possible. They worked great and I dont see myself needing that type of work in the future. They are in great shape, super clean, rollers still grippy smooth. The jig you see allows me to quickly remove it and reattach it to my table saw fence with magswitch magnets. It works on my Sawstop Biesemeyer fence. Gonna throw it on ebay in a week or two, but figure I would offer here first. 180$ Let me know if you have any questions. I am in RI. Curt
  10. Bunkbed update. Thanks for the help everyone. This sucker is rock solid. Main beam connections are joined using basically big Loose tenons. Mitered boxes are reinforced with 6mm dominos and were made from decent quality orange box store poplar ply. The larger partitions are framed inside with 2x lumber. Railing/stairs made from some CVG Doug Fir. Stairs are def not comfy to use, as noted above,,,but my wife liked the look of these stairs better and was worried about my daughter stair climbing comfort Finally, painted with Target Coatings EM6500 White. HVLPd. Its not really fine WW but I couldn't help but treat it that way.
  11. Hmm. I originally wanted to do this, but thought I would have to inset the weight bearing beam like an 1/8 to make, in effect, the mortise and I wanted it to be seamless....but your comment made me rethink, maybe it is just an open notch on the outside (like image attached)? ? the other reason for some meat in the beam is that i was gonna throw some big dominos in there that connect to the vert structures. thanks for the help!
  12. After calculating for wood movement, seems like width is not big enough to worry about but I should leave a small gap in height. ? Does this sound right? These calculations are for rel humidity New england...my house does not have AC. Alder, red: will shrink 0.016 inches in thickness and 0.08 inches in widthFinal dimensions will be 1.984 x 5.92 ....
  13. Can I put a (big) loose tenon ( that is 2 pieces of 3/4 ply and 1 piece of 5/8 hardwood laminated together) into the open end of my mitered plywood box beam constructed of plywood. would the seasonal wood movement of the 5/8 hardwood be enough to cause trouble? the tenon is 2 1/8" thick x 6 5/8" x 4" inches deep. I am using these for connecting the main horizontal beams to the corner posts in the bunk bed. the boxes are now constructed using 6mm dominos every ten inches along the miter.
  14. Looooong miters. How would you guys or gals do long miters on 3/4 ply (as seen in the drawing, some are between 6-8ft)? All the member/ "boxes" for the bunk bed will have miter'd joints to keep seamless. I am going to use an angled loose tenon for structure. I am either going to run a groove the whole length or just use my domino and cut down my angle stock like mini angled dominos. Or should I get a lock miter bit? but for the long miters i have found the table saw fine, but a little wobbly because any movement in the sheet up or down, creates inconsistencies in the angle. but since its going to be sanded and painted, should be fine. more thinking about the larger sheets that are roughly 4x8 sheets with a mitered corners.
  15. Woah, good point. I never thought of that (wonder why Yeah, my 5x5 sheets at my yard is similar price. But for some reason the 4x8 sheets are sky high. They must be like A quality on both sides like you mention. I was in such shock I didnt ask why.