Curtis

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About Curtis

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  • Woodworking Interests
    Doors Furniture Cabinets

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  1. Hung a new door in an old frame this weekend that originally didn't have weatherstripping. I thought I would just pop off the stops, cut them back 1/2", run them through the table saw to create the needed 1/8" x 3/8" deep kerf cut....but then realized the stops and jamb are the same piece of wood !. Any ideas on the best way to cut a flush 1/8" kerf along the stop that's 3/8 deep. I was thinking to use my multi-tool, using flush cut bit make a groove and then use a grout attachment to widen to 1/8"? Anyone have better ideas??? Thanks !
  2. just a quickie Im finishing up a sapelle entry door project and final piece is the sill. Should I put kerf lines in the bottom?? I have seen some with , some without. The one closest to the edge im guessing is the drip edge and the ones throughout the body are for sealant to settle in?
  3. And the results are in...sold it three days after posting for 600. Ended up w a 8" grizzly w shelix and 76 bed for 800. 200 dollar upgrade. So not too bad. Thanks for the help everyone.
  4. This one just sold for 472$ in Georgia. Little rusty ....
  5. Aaaaaand, an 8 griz with helical, parallelagram 76 in bed pops up on clist now for 850. delta is going on the block tonight .
  6. I've been thinking of upgrading my jointer to get one with longer beds. I've been making more doors and would love an 84" in bed. Anyway, any ideas on what I could sell this for. Runs great. Has a 1hp motor, currently wired for 120v but can be rewired for 220 if needed. 8" wide. Thx
  7. Sweet, thanks guys. And I have been using Lexel based on wdwerkers rec when i was sealing windows last year so will use it for this too! Im ignorant on the differences between some caulk, what is Lexel vs silicone?
  8. A year later I am finishing the piece to my carriage door build project,,,finally installing the sills. Just wondering how people recommend attaching the sill to the concrete slab. The sill is 5/4 Sapelle. I was thinking of using an epoxy to seal the bottom, then just using silcone sealant and bolting it down using sleeve anchors. This way it would be removable if need be. There are two 93 inch long sills, 6 in deep.
  9. I don't know their gameplan (Rugby) but they definitely decided walk in buyers were a waste of their time, they don't bother to keep inventory, straight up refuse to post prices, and the guys in the yard don't know them and they cut way back on species offered. They also randomly have three stainless kitchen sinks in the middle of all the rough lumber stacks for sale. So weird. This was my go to because it was right on the way to/from work. And they used to carry fantastic 8/4 tight Clear vert grain Doug Fir that I liked making doors out of
  10. After moving to RI five years ago I quickly found and used a Downes and Reader in Stoughton, MA. Recently they were purchased by Rugby and their supply and prices are frustratingly erratic. I am looking for dealer/lumbar yard recs from anyone in the New England area. I am near Providence but work up in Dedham, MA. So anything near Boston or South of Providence works for me. I use mostly domestic hardwoods/softwoods and prefer rough as I do my own milling. Thanks for the help.
  11. Selling my Jessem Table Saw Guides - I used them for a specific project of long mitered rips on the TS that needed to be as accurate as possible. They worked great and I dont see myself needing that type of work in the future. They are in great shape, super clean, rollers still grippy smooth. The jig you see allows me to quickly remove it and reattach it to my table saw fence with magswitch magnets. It works on my Sawstop Biesemeyer fence. Gonna throw it on ebay in a week or two, but figure I would offer here first. 180$ Let me know if you have any questions. I am in RI. Curt
  12. Bunkbed update. Thanks for the help everyone. This sucker is rock solid. Main beam connections are joined using basically big Loose tenons. Mitered boxes are reinforced with 6mm dominos and were made from decent quality orange box store poplar ply. The larger partitions are framed inside with 2x lumber. Railing/stairs made from some CVG Doug Fir. Stairs are def not comfy to use, as noted above,,,but my wife liked the look of these stairs better and was worried about my daughter stair climbing comfort Finally, painted with Target Coatings EM6500 White. HVLPd. Its not really fine WW but I couldn't help but treat it that way.
  13. Hmm. I originally wanted to do this, but thought I would have to inset the weight bearing beam like an 1/8 to make, in effect, the mortise and I wanted it to be seamless....but your comment made me rethink, maybe it is just an open notch on the outside (like image attached)? ? the other reason for some meat in the beam is that i was gonna throw some big dominos in there that connect to the vert structures. thanks for the help!
  14. After calculating for wood movement, seems like width is not big enough to worry about but I should leave a small gap in height. ? Does this sound right? These calculations are for rel humidity New england...my house does not have AC. Alder, red: will shrink 0.016 inches in thickness and 0.08 inches in widthFinal dimensions will be 1.984 x 5.92 ....
  15. Can I put a (big) loose tenon ( that is 2 pieces of 3/4 ply and 1 piece of 5/8 hardwood laminated together) into the open end of my mitered plywood box beam constructed of plywood. would the seasonal wood movement of the 5/8 hardwood be enough to cause trouble? the tenon is 2 1/8" thick x 6 5/8" x 4" inches deep. I am using these for connecting the main horizontal beams to the corner posts in the bunk bed. the boxes are now constructed using 6mm dominos every ten inches along the miter.