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Everything posted by Curtis

  1. Soffit rebuild and new gutters almost done. Excited to share some pics when I am done, so thanks again for the help above. Helped tremendously. Quick question, what is this corner return section is referred to (image attached)? It looks like a simple box with a gutter on it from below, but I have quickly realized its a little more complex from above with how it ties into the crown , siding and flashing. Previously the inlay gutter was simply covered in a piece of lead. But this area was a reason for some water intrusion in the original home. So hoping to try and do it right
  2. Tom, quick question if you happen to see this.....just wondering what you like to level the fascia board in reference to. i.e. drip edge, shingle line, window trim, siding? etc. I ran a laser level line just to see, and over 20 ft, the roof egde corner to corner, there is about 1 1/4" difference so definitely can't go off that Thanks again. I also changed a bit how I am doing the sub fascia. The rafter tails are pretty wavy, at each tail I am installing individual blocking (2x6 turned 90 deg, so i dont have to screw into end grain) at each rafter tail, that I can a
  3. Thanks guys! Really appreciate it. And Tom, yes the Fascia board or Sub Fascia and nailer should say 2x. Don't know why I put 1x, I think I meant that for the Fascia. It looks pretty straightforward, Im guessing I will spend most of my time getting up to the second floor scaffolding and always forgetting something and having to go back down :).
  4. Not exactly woodworking so hopefully off-topic is the best place for this. My 1910 home has original copper integral/inlay gutters but the molding that supports the gutter is rotting, the mitered corners are way open, and much of the soffits underneath have rot and decay and last summer we were the winners of a giant paper wast nest in the attic because of this. I am planning on rebuilding the soffits (while I home :). And was wondering if you guys/gals think my approach is sound? I will attach a drawing set. But basically I need to add a Sub Fascia so am planning to trim dow
  5. How do cabinet makers attach a decorative frame/panel end panel to the plywood carcass? Mine is a traditional shaker tongue/groove frame/panel door like build (poplar stiles and rails) with 1/4 birch ply as the panel. If I glue it, is there enough wood movement that it would start to break apart the top veneer of the plywood? Should I just "hang it" on the carcass, or nail? I have attach sketch up image. Yellow is plywood. Thanks for the help.
  6. Just wanted to update everyone. Ended up being ball bearing issue and since it was practically new, Supermax (ahem Laguna) is giving me a brand new one. Im glad I bought it from my local woodcraft as I went in, inspected inspected one on the floor , showed them a few videos and they were helpful in making sure the unit was replaced. So now just have to get this sucker up my basement steps and into the car and exchange it.
  7. This is my bet. I have tightened everything they asked me to tighten and it does it with paper on or off. My biggest concern is that the noise also comes with a wobbles which obviously would affect accuracy and consistency. Agreed, I want a new one. Guy from Suoermax on the phone wants me to try all these fixes, seriously....I have put 8 board feet through this.
  8. I'm guessing the drum is out of balance?. I noticed inside the drum there are small black weights stuck in there which I'm guessing were used to balance the drum? Does yours have much vibrattion when running ? Mine doesn't pass the nickel test. I can't hear the belt conveyor motor until I shut off the drum motor It does continue to rattle under load. And I am def old enough to have had a topps baseball card in my spokes Thanks everyone
  9. Okay, thanks. Ill check the set screws but I definitely just sent off the vid to Supermax (ahem Laguna).
  10. It was doing with the sandpaper in, i took it off to see if it was the paper, but it was still doing the rattle shown above.
  11. I know a few people on here have drum sanders and specifically the supermax's. I just picked up a 16-32 last weekend and it has a noticeable rattle. Is this sound troubling to those who have one...or normal? Thanks! Here's a link to a video of the rattle
  12. Hung a new door in an old frame this weekend that originally didn't have weatherstripping. I thought I would just pop off the stops, cut them back 1/2", run them through the table saw to create the needed 1/8" x 3/8" deep kerf cut....but then realized the stops and jamb are the same piece of wood !. Any ideas on the best way to cut a flush 1/8" kerf along the stop that's 3/8 deep. I was thinking to use my multi-tool, using flush cut bit make a groove and then use a grout attachment to widen to 1/8"? Anyone have better ideas??? Thanks !
  13. just a quickie Im finishing up a sapelle entry door project and final piece is the sill. Should I put kerf lines in the bottom?? I have seen some with , some without. The one closest to the edge im guessing is the drip edge and the ones throughout the body are for sealant to settle in?
  14. And the results are in...sold it three days after posting for 600. Ended up w a 8" grizzly w shelix and 76 bed for 800. 200 dollar upgrade. So not too bad. Thanks for the help everyone.
  15. This one just sold for 472$ in Georgia. Little rusty ....
  16. Aaaaaand, an 8 griz with helical, parallelagram 76 in bed pops up on clist now for 850. delta is going on the block tonight .
  17. I've been thinking of upgrading my jointer to get one with longer beds. I've been making more doors and would love an 84" in bed. Anyway, any ideas on what I could sell this for. Runs great. Has a 1hp motor, currently wired for 120v but can be rewired for 220 if needed. 8" wide. Thx
  18. Sweet, thanks guys. And I have been using Lexel based on wdwerkers rec when i was sealing windows last year so will use it for this too! Im ignorant on the differences between some caulk, what is Lexel vs silicone?
  19. A year later I am finishing the piece to my carriage door build project,,,finally installing the sills. Just wondering how people recommend attaching the sill to the concrete slab. The sill is 5/4 Sapelle. I was thinking of using an epoxy to seal the bottom, then just using silcone sealant and bolting it down using sleeve anchors. This way it would be removable if need be. There are two 93 inch long sills, 6 in deep.
  20. I don't know their gameplan (Rugby) but they definitely decided walk in buyers were a waste of their time, they don't bother to keep inventory, straight up refuse to post prices, and the guys in the yard don't know them and they cut way back on species offered. They also randomly have three stainless kitchen sinks in the middle of all the rough lumber stacks for sale. So weird. This was my go to because it was right on the way to/from work. And they used to carry fantastic 8/4 tight Clear vert grain Doug Fir that I liked making doors out of
  21. After moving to RI five years ago I quickly found and used a Downes and Reader in Stoughton, MA. Recently they were purchased by Rugby and their supply and prices are frustratingly erratic. I am looking for dealer/lumbar yard recs from anyone in the New England area. I am near Providence but work up in Dedham, MA. So anything near Boston or South of Providence works for me. I use mostly domestic hardwoods/softwoods and prefer rough as I do my own milling. Thanks for the help.
  22. Selling my Jessem Table Saw Guides - I used them for a specific project of long mitered rips on the TS that needed to be as accurate as possible. They worked great and I dont see myself needing that type of work in the future. They are in great shape, super clean, rollers still grippy smooth. The jig you see allows me to quickly remove it and reattach it to my table saw fence with magswitch magnets. It works on my Sawstop Biesemeyer fence. Gonna throw it on ebay in a week or two, but figure I would offer here first. 180$ Let me know if you have any questions. I am in RI.
  23. Bunkbed update. Thanks for the help everyone. This sucker is rock solid. Main beam connections are joined using basically big Loose tenons. Mitered boxes are reinforced with 6mm dominos and were made from decent quality orange box store poplar ply. The larger partitions are framed inside with 2x lumber. Railing/stairs made from some CVG Doug Fir. Stairs are def not comfy to use, as noted above,,,but my wife liked the look of these stairs better and was worried about my daughter stair climbing comfort Finally, painted with Target Coatings EM6500 White. HVLPd. Its not really fine WW
  24. Hmm. I originally wanted to do this, but thought I would have to inset the weight bearing beam like an 1/8 to make, in effect, the mortise and I wanted it to be seamless....but your comment made me rethink, maybe it is just an open notch on the outside (like image attached)? ? the other reason for some meat in the beam is that i was gonna throw some big dominos in there that connect to the vert structures. thanks for the help!
  25. After calculating for wood movement, seems like width is not big enough to worry about but I should leave a small gap in height. ? Does this sound right? These calculations are for rel humidity New house does not have AC. Alder, red: will shrink 0.016 inches in thickness and 0.08 inches in widthFinal dimensions will be 1.984 x 5.92 ....