Hammer5573

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Hammer5573 last won the day on October 25

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About Hammer5573

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    Male
  • Location
    Wheeling, WV
  • Woodworking Interests
    Federal period furniture construction

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  1. I really like the colors...! Great job Chet
  2. I went ahead and used the TB II and so far looks like a good choice. I was getting a lot of bleed-through when I used the Cold Press glue; didn't notice any with the TB II
  3. Mick, The project that I’m currently working on is pretty large. Would the TB hide glue give me enough open time to complete the veneer application..?
  4. I've been doing a lot of wood veneering the past few years and I've been disappointed with some of the results. I vacuum press my projects and attempt to follow the procedures outlined the experts in the field; however, I've noticed that some of my projects have unglued areas (i.e small bubble-like areas) in the veneer. I'm starting to question whether the Tite-Bond Cold Press glue that I've been using might be the problem? Prior to this I always used Tite-Bond II and I didn't notice these defects. Is it just me or has anybody else had similar problems?
  5. Thank you.. and that's right Chestnut, the veneer is glued to MDF and the veneer on the lower front rail is backed by two layers of balsa then glued
  6. Thanks gentlemen...it really means something coming from "pros" like you
  7. By the way, those aren’t ripples in the veneer, it’s just the figure of the wood grain
  8. I saw this table in PW about six years ago and finally got around to building it. The original plans were for a bow front; however, I elected to make a straight front. It’s made of Sapele with Bubinga Burl veneer. The construction is typical mortise and tenon except the upper front rail which is dovetailed. The biggest challenge was to incorporate the curved veneers into the lower rail. I’ve learned to back my inlays with balsa which makes the inlays more rigid and easier to outline before inlaying.
  9. Hammer5573

    Sapele Wood

    Thanks for the advice; I'll go the blonde shellac route
  10. Hammer5573

    Sapele Wood

    I had considered applying a coat of waxed shellac, sanding it down, then applying a French polish..?
  11. Hammer5573

    Sapele Wood

    Since we're talking about Sapele, I would like to know if it requires a grain filler before finishing..? Sapele is a sub-species of Mahogany and according to the Janka hardness scale Sapele is around 1500 whereas African Mahogany is much lower. I've always used a grain filler on my African Mahogany projects but the grain on the Sapele that I currently working with is much more dense (I think that its quartersawn). I'm assuming that grain filler is not required; am I correct..?
  12. I followed your instructions gee-dub and that seems to have corrected the problem. Thanks for the advice..!
  13. Sounds like great advice! I'll let you know how it goes
  14. Looks like to corners are digging. I can't take a picture because I discarded it
  15. i guess they could better be described as deep track marks up to .25" wide...?