• Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Hammer5573 last won the day on February 25 2019

Hammer5573 had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

68 Good

About Hammer5573

  • Rank
    Apprentice Poster

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Wheeling, WV
  • Woodworking Interests
    Federal period furniture construction

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I’m looking for figured cherry veneer for my current project. I’d like to get either burled or crotch but I can’t seem to find any. Joe Woodworker is my usual go to guy but I can’t find any on his site. Any suggestions?
  2. I'm making progress with the the spice box; the carcass is completed. The instructions indicate that the drawers are joined with half-blind dovetails. The drawer sides are 1/4" thick and the drawer fronts are 3/8" thick. Has anybody ever made half-blinds on drawers this small; any suggestions...?
  3. NOW I see it...! Looks like there is another stub on the back side also (doesn't say anything about it in the narrative)..? In the narrative it suggests using a router to shave the tails down to 3/8" . Another other ideas..?
  4. The description says that there are “4 tails” to be cut. So from what all of you are telling me, I should cut four tails then instead of removing the shoulder I should leave a 1/4” stub...?
  5. The photos below are taken from a May/June 1997 edition of Fine Woodworking for a Pennsylvania Spice Box.I cant make sense of the left side of the bottom tailboard. It says to cut the tails then shave them down to 3/8” thickness. I understand that part, but I don’t understand where it says to “Trim 1/2” off end”. What end..? Normally this “end” would be cut away when making the tails...??? I’m sure that it’s simple but I can’t figure it out?
  6. In response to Mick's response, "I would normally use veneered drawer fronts for a piece like this for the very reason you're asking about". The doors are veneered and the substrate is plywood. The only wood is the bead molding around the door. The drawer fronts are veneered but the substrate is poplar. I did this because I couldn't dovetail plywood or MDF. I appreciate the suggestion about the book; it will be on my purchase list.
  7. Here’s a photo of the drawers and side door. I know the tolerances are tight but it’s really humid in my shop and I fear that when the seasons change the wood shrinkage will be excessive..?
  8. I'm currently building another federal style sideboard. As you know, federal style drawers and doors are encased with bead molding around their circumference and this is then inset into the sideboard carcass. The weather in my area has been hot and humid for an extended period of time the wood (cherry) that I'm using has been kiln dried and seasoned to these weather conditions for many weeks. I'm allowing about 1/32" clearance around the drawers and doors assuming that this would be as thick as the wood would become. Do you think that this is a sound assumption...?
  9. "I've been veneering many of my projects for an number of years now and I've noticed that I frequently see glue spots (refer to photo) on the veneer once I remove them from the vacuum bag. The glue seems to be weeping through the veneer..? My procedure when veneering is to apply cold press glue to the substrate, attach the veneer, cover it with a piece of door screen and place it into the vacuum bag. I've noticed this problem occurring on open grain species, especially Mahogany and Walnut. Does any one else have this problem; any suggestions..?
  10. Thanks for the great responses. I chewed on it for a while and donated it to the wood burner bin
  11. I'm completing work on a walnut jewelry box with an oval shaped inlay on the lid. Apparently I didn't notice that I removed too much material from one end under the inlay before the glue up. Now the inlay doesn't sit level, one end is noticeably deeper (about 1/16"). I'm planning to French polish the box and before I start over making a new lid I was wondering if I could use thick, uncut shellac to level it out ….?
  12. The wood was cut about 2 weeks ago...is this too long..?
  13. I recently obtained a large amount of white oak and ash. I want to minimize the cracking that occurs on the ends and I remember seeing posts about different products that are designed for this. Can anyone recommend a good product..?