Hammer5573

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Hammer5573 last won the day on February 25

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About Hammer5573

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    Apprentice Poster

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Wheeling, WV
  • Woodworking Interests
    Federal period furniture construction

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  1. Hammer5573

    Gorilla Glue

    Who am I to question FWW but I’ll bet they didn’t compare PU with PVA on a bent lamination; no contest
  2. Hammer5573

    Stringing, Fluting, Beading and such

    Chip, Look up Rob Millard on YouTube. He’s a great Federal woodworker and part of his video about making fan inlays is posted. You can purchase the full video for a nominal fee on his website. I use his techniques with a few modifications.
  3. Hammer5573

    Gorilla Glue

    I’ve been experimenting with using more Gorilla glue on some of my projects because it’s bonds so much stronger than yellow glue. I’ve heard all of the complaints about it ( foaming, messy, impossible to remove if I gets on wood surface etc); however, now that realize that these can happen I prepare ahead for them. I use newspaper to cover all the work surface, I selectively wet the areas that I want to glue ( water activates the glue), I apply the glue SPARINGLY, and I apply blue masking tape all around the joint. I’ve done some pretty radical bent laminations recently using this glue and haven’t noticed any creep afterwards. I’ve even used it on a long legged mortise and tenon federal table that I completed without any problems. I still mostly use yellow glue but I do think that there is a place in woodworking for Gorilla glue
  4. Hammer5573

    Hepplewhite Sideboard

    Definitely outta my pay grade..!
  5. Hammer5573

    Need Some Help Here

    Installed a magnet....
  6. Hammer5573

    Stringing, Fluting, Beading and such

    Chip, It’s great to hear that us “Federalists (federal style woodworkers)” have another dedicated student of this style. No federal piece would be complete without the addition of an Oval Fan inlay (the holy grail of federal inlays; see below). I’ve made more than I care to count and I still don’t feel comfortable making them; however, if you would like a few tips on making them (learned from numerous screw ups) let me know I’d be happy to assist
  7. Hammer5573

    Stringing, Fluting, Beading and such

    Chip, As someone who owns about every stringing and inlay tool ever made I think that I can make a few suggestions. When I’m doing straight line stringing I’ve learned to use a Dremel fitted with a good base and guide ( my favorite is the Veritas; it’s pricey). The biggest challenge is finding a bit that is the same diameter as the string thickness. I purchase my bits from Precision Tools. I use Latta’s radius cutter for curves; however, you gotta be careful because the blade on the cutter is pretty thick and creates a wide groove and can cause tear out. This is a problem if your string is thin.
  8. Hammer5573

    Dewalt 735 helical cutter

    Has anyone tried a helical cutter on a Dewalt 735? How often do you rotate the cutters?
  9. Hammer5573

    Getting Rid of Grain Filler Swirls

    Thanks for the response Ace. I did a “light scuff” only. I see where your going with this and it makes sense. Should I have used a more aggressive sandpaper besides doing a more aggressive sanding of the surface...?
  10. Hammer5573

    Getting Rid of Grain Filler Swirls

    I’ve been using water based grain filler on my mahogany projects recently. I’ve noticed that the filler has left visible swirls when finished. I allow the filler to dry for 30-60 minutes and wipe it off. I also sand the surface lightly w/ 320# paper. I mix wood dye with the filler and I’m afraid of using more aggressive sandpaper fearing that I’ll remove some of the dye. I finished the project with 3 coats of shellac; sanding between each coat. Any advice appreciated...
  11. Hammer5573

    Happy Daughter, Happy Wife

    I’ve done a number of curved and bow fronts, I guess it’s because they’re so challenging (at least for me). I use 3/16” plywood for the door and drawer front cores. I use Gorilla glue for the bowed laminations and non-visible structural components because it’s very strong and there is no spring back. I’ve learned that you can’t use it liberally like yellow glue and that you have to anticipate the foaming that occurs when it cures. I apply a backer veneer for the veneered surfaces unless they’re made of MDF. I attach smal pieces of hardwood to both ends of the plywood drawer fronts using biscuit and Gorilla glue and use my Leigh jig to make the dovetails used to attach the drawer sides. The most difficult part was rabbiting the rounded bead mounding surrounding the curved surfaces. I used a table router and jig to do this; however, my first attempt cost me the tip of my finger (learned the hard way..!). Im sure that I could learn a lot more and welcome your informed responses
  12. My daughter and her husband just purchased a home in Fairfax Va. and wanted some federal style furniture to add to her collection . I just finished what I hope will be the final two pieces.
  13. Hammer5573

    Need Help Finishing My Bow Front

    Got it finished. I think it turned out all right. I used baking soda mixed with distilled water and used multiple applications to darken the legs. If I build another one I’m going to orient the grain of the center section of the apron vertically so there will be a better match with the legs.
  14. Hammer5573

    Need Help Finishing My Bow Front

    Thanks Chesnut for the advice because that’s been my concern all along. Is there a protocol for applying the Halogen light?
  15. Hammer5573

    Need Help Finishing My Bow Front

    I’m in the process of finishing a bow front chest. I veneered the cabinet sides and front apron with African Mahogany ( ignore the drawer fronts because they are a different species). I also used the same species for the legs (8/4).I compared the veneer with the 8/4 for color match prior to milling and I was satisfied . The legs are now much lighter in color and don’t match the veneer. I know that Mahogany darkens with age and assume that the legs will darken; however, should I try to match the legs using extra applications of the wood dye that I’m planning to use or will they even out if I leave them alone?