Hammer5573

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Hammer5573 last won the day on February 25 2019

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About Hammer5573

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    Apprentice Poster

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Wheeling, WV
  • Woodworking Interests
    Federal period furniture construction

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  1. "I've been veneering many of my projects for an number of years now and I've noticed that I frequently see glue spots (refer to photo) on the veneer once I remove them from the vacuum bag. The glue seems to be weeping through the veneer..? My procedure when veneering is to apply cold press glue to the substrate, attach the veneer, cover it with a piece of door screen and place it into the vacuum bag. I've noticed this problem occurring on open grain species, especially Mahogany and Walnut. Does any one else have this problem; any suggestions..?
  2. Thanks for the great responses. I chewed on it for a while and donated it to the wood burner bin
  3. I'm completing work on a walnut jewelry box with an oval shaped inlay on the lid. Apparently I didn't notice that I removed too much material from one end under the inlay before the glue up. Now the inlay doesn't sit level, one end is noticeably deeper (about 1/16"). I'm planning to French polish the box and before I start over making a new lid I was wondering if I could use thick, uncut shellac to level it out ….?
  4. The wood was cut about 2 weeks ago...is this too long..?
  5. I recently obtained a large amount of white oak and ash. I want to minimize the cracking that occurs on the ends and I remember seeing posts about different products that are designed for this. Can anyone recommend a good product..?
  6. Yes....as much as I appreciate Derek’s advice, I prefer a heavier saw in my hand. As I mentioned in my initial post, I have a Cosman crosscut saw and do like it. I guess it’s just user preference. I do appreciate all of the great information that all of you experts have given me.
  7. I have the Veritas but it’s too light; I like a heavier saw. I’m thinking that it’s either the Gramercy or the Cosman
  8. I’m looking to purchase a new dovetail saw soon and was looking for some input regarding the brand that people prefer. My son gave me a Rob Cosman crosscut saw for Christmas and I have to say that it is an awesome handsaw; however, it’s pricey. I do like the fit of the handgrip on the Cosman saw. I have a Veritas dovetail saw but I’m just not sold on the design. Any input would be appreciated.
  9. I have a Dewalt 735 and I installed a helical cutterhead and , aside from replacing the brushes, I’ve never looked back. I was purchasing the Infinity cutting blades and they were definitely lasting longer than the Dewalt but the helical head produces a cleaner product.
  10. Thanks to all of the responders! I should have specified that the problem that I experience is racking. I know that a drawer that's wider than it is deep predisposes it to racking; however, I've never seen a sideboard whose dimensions allowed for anything else. I like the suggestions that Chestnut and CurlyOak made and I'm going to incorporate them into my design. P.S. I keep lots of paraffin in my shop
  11. I’m building a federal style sideboard with three drawers. The drawers will be flush mounted and 22”x14”x 3.75”. The carcass is made of poplar, the drawer glides, guides and kickers are also made of poplar. Ive always had trouble building drawers that slide smoothly. I’m thinking that lve been making the drawer tolerances are too large? The relative humidity where is live is low at this time of year. How much tolerance should I allow?
  12. Apparently I'm not the only woodworker interested in precision routing. Take a look at the delivery time on the Incra Precision Router Tool
  13. As I said previously, I'm hoping that I can prevent the snipe that was occurring on the outfeed end of my cuts due to the fence being uneven and the wood falling of the guide bearing. I've been using harder woods lately and I'm planning to use some of the really hard exotic stuff soon. I'm hoping that I can make small progressive cuts quickly and avoid dulling the bits and burning the wood. I may be all wet in my thinking but it was a fun project..!
  14. I've always enjoyed using my router table but I would get frustrated because I wasn't able to make small precision adjustments and because I would consistently get sniped on the outfeed end. I once purchased a higher end router table with a split fence and it was a disaster. I made so many modifications to the table that it wasn't recognizable. I made a number of attempts to make a router fence that could be adjusted in a very precise manner while moving evenly on both sides as it was adjusted. I just couldn't make one that I was satisfied with so I decided that instead of moving the fence to make the adjustments that I would move the router instead. I fabricated a frame made of 1x1x1/8" tubular steel and made a router carriage attached to the frame using premium drawer glides and a basic crank mechanism. The deck is 1 1/2" thick covered with a piece of Formica that I obtained from a local cabinet shop. The fence is made of 3/4" thick extruded aluminum and can be easily removed by loosening two knobs. The dust collection box is attached to the bottom of the router carriage and the box and the drawer fronts are veneered with paper-backed teak that I had leftover in the shop. So far, the trials a promising.