Hammer5573

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Hammer5573 last won the day on February 25

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About Hammer5573

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Wheeling, WV
  • Woodworking Interests
    Federal period furniture construction

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  1. I’ve always wondered if seasonal wood movement in furniture would be lessened if both sides of the wood had some type of a wood sealer applied...(I’m assuming that if the wood were completely sealed it would not be effected by humidity changes)?
  2. I’ve used wood dyes on previous federal projects but I don’t like that I must apply dye before stringing because it limits how must I can sand the wood after stringing. For my next federal style project I’m planning to use epoxy instead of wood as the stringing material. Does anybody know if wood dye can be applied AFTER the epoxy stringing without coloring the epoxy..?
  3. My son just surprised me with some Leopardwood for Fathers Day. I just checked it out on the hardness scale and noticed that it’s harder than Hickory. Has anyone out there worked with it? Specifically, how difficult is it to hand/machine plane? Is the grain consistent? Are there wood finishes that work better than others?
  4. Who am I to question FWW but I’ll bet they didn’t compare PU with PVA on a bent lamination; no contest
  5. Chip, Look up Rob Millard on YouTube. He’s a great Federal woodworker and part of his video about making fan inlays is posted. You can purchase the full video for a nominal fee on his website. I use his techniques with a few modifications.
  6. I’ve been experimenting with using more Gorilla glue on some of my projects because it’s bonds so much stronger than yellow glue. I’ve heard all of the complaints about it ( foaming, messy, impossible to remove if I gets on wood surface etc); however, now that realize that these can happen I prepare ahead for them. I use newspaper to cover all the work surface, I selectively wet the areas that I want to glue ( water activates the glue), I apply the glue SPARINGLY, and I apply blue masking tape all around the joint. I’ve done some pretty radical bent laminations recently using this glue and haven’t noticed any creep afterwards. I’ve even used it on a long legged mortise and tenon federal table that I completed without any problems. I still mostly use yellow glue but I do think that there is a place in woodworking for Gorilla glue
  7. Definitely outta my pay grade..!
  8. Chip, It’s great to hear that us “Federalists (federal style woodworkers)” have another dedicated student of this style. No federal piece would be complete without the addition of an Oval Fan inlay (the holy grail of federal inlays; see below). I’ve made more than I care to count and I still don’t feel comfortable making them; however, if you would like a few tips on making them (learned from numerous screw ups) let me know I’d be happy to assist
  9. Chip, As someone who owns about every stringing and inlay tool ever made I think that I can make a few suggestions. When I’m doing straight line stringing I’ve learned to use a Dremel fitted with a good base and guide ( my favorite is the Veritas; it’s pricey). The biggest challenge is finding a bit that is the same diameter as the string thickness. I purchase my bits from Precision Tools. I use Latta’s radius cutter for curves; however, you gotta be careful because the blade on the cutter is pretty thick and creates a wide groove and can cause tear out. This is a problem if your string is thin.
  10. Has anyone tried a helical cutter on a Dewalt 735? How often do you rotate the cutters?
  11. Thanks for the response Ace. I did a “light scuff” only. I see where your going with this and it makes sense. Should I have used a more aggressive sandpaper besides doing a more aggressive sanding of the surface...?
  12. I’ve been using water based grain filler on my mahogany projects recently. I’ve noticed that the filler has left visible swirls when finished. I allow the filler to dry for 30-60 minutes and wipe it off. I also sand the surface lightly w/ 320# paper. I mix wood dye with the filler and I’m afraid of using more aggressive sandpaper fearing that I’ll remove some of the dye. I finished the project with 3 coats of shellac; sanding between each coat. Any advice appreciated...
  13. I’ve done a number of curved and bow fronts, I guess it’s because they’re so challenging (at least for me). I use 3/16” plywood for the door and drawer front cores. I use Gorilla glue for the bowed laminations and non-visible structural components because it’s very strong and there is no spring back. I’ve learned that you can’t use it liberally like yellow glue and that you have to anticipate the foaming that occurs when it cures. I apply a backer veneer for the veneered surfaces unless they’re made of MDF. I attach smal pieces of hardwood to both ends of the plywood drawer fronts using biscuit and Gorilla glue and use my Leigh jig to make the dovetails used to attach the drawer sides. The most difficult part was rabbiting the rounded bead mounding surrounding the curved surfaces. I used a table router and jig to do this; however, my first attempt cost me the tip of my finger (learned the hard way..!). Im sure that I could learn a lot more and welcome your informed responses
  14. My daughter and her husband just purchased a home in Fairfax Va. and wanted some federal style furniture to add to her collection . I just finished what I hope will be the final two pieces.