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Everything posted by Hammer5573

  1. Thanks a bunch; that’s kinda what I was thinking…!
  2. I’m attempting to reproduce a small table for a friend. It requires corner dados (see illustration) for the installation of two lower shelves. I’ve never done a corner dado installation in the past and I’d welcome any advice on the best way to cut the angled dados (dado set, router, saw and chisel etc)?
  3. That makes sense. Maybe I'll try it sometime
  4. Has anybody ever heard of using a small door hinge mounted to the drawer blade above the drawer as a stop..? I read this somewhere but I can’t remember how it was done..?
  5. If you do an additional vertical cut down through the pin or tail that your trying to remove it will let you insert a wider blade and give you more space to turn the saw 90 degrees
  6. I seen where some people use powdered lime when finishing, could this be why it's used...?
  7. How do you apply the base? Will it cause streaking if it's not applied properly?
  8. Sorry....I wasn't thinking when I mentioned (above) only cutting the base of the pin sockets. This suggestion also works when cutting the bases of the tail sockets on the pin board (I guess that I'm used to cutting half-blinds only).
  9. (Finished..!) I really like to work with cherry; however, I don’t like the brownish-yellow color that it turns after I French polish it. I’m putting it in a sunny area to promote the aging color change. Does anybody have any ideas to speed up this process?
  10. I agree with pkinneb, I use a fret saw because it's smaller and can be turned 90 degrees easier than a coping saw. I assume that you're referring to cutting the base of the pin sockets on the tailboard? If this is case, I've also learned that making additional vertical relief cuts through the middle of the material being removed from the pin sockets improves my ability to turn the sawblade 90 degrees.
  11. Sorry guys...I mis phrased the question. The question is how you limit the drawer from pulling completely out of the cabinet? In the past I've used a small, narrow piece of wood screwed to the inside back of the drawer which can be rotated upward to stop against the outer drawer blade as I pulled the drawer out; however, I can't use this type on my latest project.
  12. I’m just curious to know what kind of drawer stops you’re using when making drawers? I’ve seen a few different types but I’m always looking for new ideas.
  13. Awesome job.....exceptional joinery...!
  14. Thanks guys. I'm afraid my hand carving skills are non-existent.
  15. A friend of mine asked me to reproduce this table. The basic design is simple; however, I don’t know how to reproduce the profile along to top edge. Has anybody seen this before..?
  16. About 1 1/2 years ago I decided that I was going to learn to cut dovetails by hand, especially half-blinds. I would go out into my shop and cut a couple 4-5 times a week. I also watched some of the masters cut them on YouTube. Although I've never made the "perfect" one yet, I'm surprised at how much I've improved. It's a good feeling to know that I acquired this skill and I encourage you to learn this skill.
  17. I didn’t even think of checking David Boeff’s channel (duh). Thanks Ronn..!
  18. I’m considering installing a single Chippendale style drop bale drawer pull in the center of each drawer on this project. I’ve never installed one of these on a curved drawer front. The radius is 1 13/16: 15”. Has anybody done this before..?
  19. Thanks Guys, your advice is greatly appreciated......!
  20. I just purchased a Grizzly GO 817 and it requires a 120"blade and I'm looking for a 120" x 3/4" 3TPI. I would prefer a Timber Wolf if possible? Is 120" an unusual size?
  21. I just purchased a Grizzly GO 817. I really wanted to buy the Laguna 1412, but the soonest that it would be shipped was April 30 and i need to get moving on some projects. I wanted to buy an American made product but that was almost impossible. I settled for one made in Taiwan (a least it's not mainland China).
  22. UPDATE I’ve got the quarter columns, the top and the upper drawer completed. I’m waiting for my new bandsaw to be delivered so I can finish cutting the rest of the drawer fronts.
  23. I’ve been making dovetail joints for a while now and I’m usually satisfied with the results; however, my pins are wider than the ones that I see in contemporary furniture. I’ve attempted to make them with the more narrow pins that are so popular today but I have trouble marking the tail margins on the pin board because my marking knife won’t reach into the narrow pin socket deep enough. I know that Rob Cosman sells a marking tool, but I’m sure that there are other tools being used. What are people using to to this..?