Hammer5573

Members
  • Posts

    247
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2

Everything posted by Hammer5573

  1. Is it necessary to use a veneer backer when using MDF as the substrate ? If so, does this veneer need to be oriented perpendicular to the finish veneer ?
  2. THANKS TODD......ESPECIALLY THE PART ABOUT THE SHOP TEMPERATURE..!
  3. I did try it on a test board and no problems thus far; however, I'll take your advice and wait a couple of days. Thank you
  4. I applied a water based wood filler (Crystal Lac) to my mahogany project yesterday. How long do I need to wait before I apply the spray on sealer? I read that I need to wait a while in order to allow the solvents in the sealer to dissipate?
  5. Is there a good way to protect inlays when applying a tinted wood filler (The project is made of Mahogany)?
  6. The project that I'm currently working is made of mahogany and it has inlays. Can the inlays be masked with tape when I apply wood filler
  7. What about using filler on cherry?
  8. I'm considering building my next project using black walnut. Would it be of any benefit to use a grain filler on this type of wood?
  9. The top of this piece is 61"x20"....is wiping feasible or should it be sprayed?
  10. Water based powder.. i haven't mixed it up yet
  11. I've never used a wood dye before. I've done a lot of reading about it and understand that streaking can be a problem if it's not applied properly, especially if the incorrect type of applicator is chosen. I've also seen a number of recommendations regarding what type of applicator to use (industrial paper towels, cloths etc). Does anyone have any suggestions about which type of applicator is best to prevent streaking or is streaking caused by something else.
  12. Thank you...any preference for Unibond vs DAP...?
  13. I've been laminating curved drawer fronts using 1/8" plywood in a custom mold. Ive using Titebond II or hide glue. I leave them in the mold for 24 hours before removing. I repeatedly check the contour when I remove them from the mold and it's correct ; however, the next day the contours change. Any idea what I'm doing wrong??
  14. A friend recently acquired an old piece of furniture and wants to know what type of joint this is...?
  15. Call me stupid...but I'm having trouble getting my 3-hole veneer tape to stick to the veneer? I dampen the tape, apply the the veneer, and heat it with an iron but it still doesn't stick. Any recommendations?
  16. This is an addendum to my previous posts. I spoke with my son, an engineer, who advised me that as long as the vacuum bag makes contact with both sides if the curved item being veneered the pressure is equal and the curved item will not break. I tried this on a curved drawer front and it worked great. Please refer to the attached image as proof.
  17. Thanks fellows.. I'll take your advice and use the platens
  18. Thanks for all of the suggestions! I never even considered cracking the door due to vacuum pressure. The door is constructed of 6 layers of 1/8" plywood bonded with hide glue. Would this make any difference in its risk of cracking.
  19. I'm building a federal style sideboard with inwardly curved doors. I want to vacuum veneer the concave surface of the door with crotch mahogany. I need to know whether I should place the door directly into the vacuum bag or should I construct a contoured platen and sandwich the veneer between the door and the platen. All suggestions appreciated ?