Hammer5573

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Everything posted by Hammer5573

  1. Has anyone seen the woodworking performed by the Vietnamese cabinet workers on YouTube? I stumbled across these videos a couple of weeks ago and I'm amazed at the products that they produce under the crudest of conditions. They also use some of the most exotic wood species that I've ever seen. If you're interested in seeing them type "Woodworking Craftsman" in the YouTube search bar.
  2. I'm about to purchase a CAD program to assist my woodworking projects. I'm computer literate but I haven't used any of these programs for furniture design. Can you give me some suggestions for a hobby woodworker...?
  3. I really like the colors...! Great job Chet
  4. I went ahead and used the TB II and so far looks like a good choice. I was getting a lot of bleed-through when I used the Cold Press glue; didn't notice any with the TB II
  5. Mick, The project that I’m currently working on is pretty large. Would the TB hide glue give me enough open time to complete the veneer application..?
  6. I've been doing a lot of wood veneering the past few years and I've been disappointed with some of the results. I vacuum press my projects and attempt to follow the procedures outlined the experts in the field; however, I've noticed that some of my projects have unglued areas (i.e small bubble-like areas) in the veneer. I'm starting to question whether the Tite-Bond Cold Press glue that I've been using might be the problem? Prior to this I always used Tite-Bond II and I didn't notice these defects. Is it just me or has anybody else had similar problems?
  7. Thank you.. and that's right Chestnut, the veneer is glued to MDF and the veneer on the lower front rail is backed by two layers of balsa then glued
  8. Thanks gentlemen...it really means something coming from "pros" like you
  9. By the way, those aren’t ripples in the veneer, it’s just the figure of the wood grain
  10. I saw this table in PW about six years ago and finally got around to building it. The original plans were for a bow front; however, I elected to make a straight front. It’s made of Sapele with Bubinga Burl veneer. The construction is typical mortise and tenon except the upper front rail which is dovetailed. The biggest challenge was to incorporate the curved veneers into the lower rail. I’ve learned to back my inlays with balsa which makes the inlays more rigid and easier to outline before inlaying.
  11. Hammer5573

    Sapele Wood

    Thanks for the advice; I'll go the blonde shellac route
  12. Hammer5573

    Sapele Wood

    I had considered applying a coat of waxed shellac, sanding it down, then applying a French polish..?
  13. Hammer5573

    Sapele Wood

    Since we're talking about Sapele, I would like to know if it requires a grain filler before finishing..? Sapele is a sub-species of Mahogany and according to the Janka hardness scale Sapele is around 1500 whereas African Mahogany is much lower. I've always used a grain filler on my African Mahogany projects but the grain on the Sapele that I currently working with is much more dense (I think that its quartersawn). I'm assuming that grain filler is not required; am I correct..?
  14. I followed your instructions gee-dub and that seems to have corrected the problem. Thanks for the advice..!
  15. Sounds like great advice! I'll let you know how it goes
  16. Looks like to corners are digging. I can't take a picture because I discarded it
  17. i guess they could better be described as deep track marks up to .25" wide...?
  18. I recently purchased a Woodcraft cabinet scraper thinking that the ergonomics (I'm an Ergonomist by profession) make more sense than using a card scraper. The problem is that when I'm trying to use it I'm often gouging the wood surface. I assume that it's either because I'm using it improperly or I don't have it adjusted properly. Can anyone give me some advise...?
  19. I guess I’ll call it my “Jog Jig”
  20. I know that many of you are well versed in cutting dovetail joints and have developed you own ways of cutting them. I noticed that one of the biggest causes of error when I cut them was trying to properly align and accurately mark the outline of the tails on the edge of the pin board. I made a simple clamp using two piece of scrap wood and two toggle clamps. It’s made the accuracy of my cuts much better.
  21. I’m looking for figured cherry veneer for my current project. I’d like to get either burled or crotch but I can’t seem to find any. Joe Woodworker is my usual go to guy but I can’t find any on his site. Any suggestions?
  22. I'm making progress with the the spice box; the carcass is completed. The instructions indicate that the drawers are joined with half-blind dovetails. The drawer sides are 1/4" thick and the drawer fronts are 3/8" thick. Has anybody ever made half-blinds on drawers this small; any suggestions...?
  23. NOW I see it...! Looks like there is another stub on the back side also (doesn't say anything about it in the narrative)..? In the narrative it suggests using a router to shave the tails down to 3/8" . Another other ideas..?