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Everything posted by Hammer5573

  1. The description says that there are “4 tails” to be cut. So from what all of you are telling me, I should cut four tails then instead of removing the shoulder I should leave a 1/4” stub...?
  2. The photos below are taken from a May/June 1997 edition of Fine Woodworking for a Pennsylvania Spice Box.I cant make sense of the left side of the bottom tailboard. It says to cut the tails then shave them down to 3/8” thickness. I understand that part, but I don’t understand where it says to “Trim 1/2” off end”. What end..? Normally this “end” would be cut away when making the tails...??? I’m sure that it’s simple but I can’t figure it out?
  3. In response to Mick's response, "I would normally use veneered drawer fronts for a piece like this for the very reason you're asking about". The doors are veneered and the substrate is plywood. The only wood is the bead molding around the door. The drawer fronts are veneered but the substrate is poplar. I did this because I couldn't dovetail plywood or MDF. I appreciate the suggestion about the book; it will be on my purchase list.
  4. Here’s a photo of the drawers and side door. I know the tolerances are tight but it’s really humid in my shop and I fear that when the seasons change the wood shrinkage will be excessive..?
  5. I'm currently building another federal style sideboard. As you know, federal style drawers and doors are encased with bead molding around their circumference and this is then inset into the sideboard carcass. The weather in my area has been hot and humid for an extended period of time the wood (cherry) that I'm using has been kiln dried and seasoned to these weather conditions for many weeks. I'm allowing about 1/32" clearance around the drawers and doors assuming that this would be as thick as the wood would become. Do you think that this is a sound assumption...?
  6. "I've been veneering many of my projects for an number of years now and I've noticed that I frequently see glue spots (refer to photo) on the veneer once I remove them from the vacuum bag. The glue seems to be weeping through the veneer..? My procedure when veneering is to apply cold press glue to the substrate, attach the veneer, cover it with a piece of door screen and place it into the vacuum bag. I've noticed this problem occurring on open grain species, especially Mahogany and Walnut. Does any one else have this problem; any suggestions..?
  7. Thanks for the great responses. I chewed on it for a while and donated it to the wood burner bin
  8. I'm completing work on a walnut jewelry box with an oval shaped inlay on the lid. Apparently I didn't notice that I removed too much material from one end under the inlay before the glue up. Now the inlay doesn't sit level, one end is noticeably deeper (about 1/16"). I'm planning to French polish the box and before I start over making a new lid I was wondering if I could use thick, uncut shellac to level it out ….?
  9. The wood was cut about 2 weeks ago...is this too long..?
  10. I recently obtained a large amount of white oak and ash. I want to minimize the cracking that occurs on the ends and I remember seeing posts about different products that are designed for this. Can anyone recommend a good product..?
  11. Yes....as much as I appreciate Derek’s advice, I prefer a heavier saw in my hand. As I mentioned in my initial post, I have a Cosman crosscut saw and do like it. I guess it’s just user preference. I do appreciate all of the great information that all of you experts have given me.
  12. I have the Veritas but it’s too light; I like a heavier saw. I’m thinking that it’s either the Gramercy or the Cosman
  13. I’m looking to purchase a new dovetail saw soon and was looking for some input regarding the brand that people prefer. My son gave me a Rob Cosman crosscut saw for Christmas and I have to say that it is an awesome handsaw; however, it’s pricey. I do like the fit of the handgrip on the Cosman saw. I have a Veritas dovetail saw but I’m just not sold on the design. Any input would be appreciated.
  14. I have a Dewalt 735 and I installed a helical cutterhead and , aside from replacing the brushes, I’ve never looked back. I was purchasing the Infinity cutting blades and they were definitely lasting longer than the Dewalt but the helical head produces a cleaner product.
  15. Thanks to all of the responders! I should have specified that the problem that I experience is racking. I know that a drawer that's wider than it is deep predisposes it to racking; however, I've never seen a sideboard whose dimensions allowed for anything else. I like the suggestions that Chestnut and CurlyOak made and I'm going to incorporate them into my design. P.S. I keep lots of paraffin in my shop
  16. I’m building a federal style sideboard with three drawers. The drawers will be flush mounted and 22”x14”x 3.75”. The carcass is made of poplar, the drawer glides, guides and kickers are also made of poplar. Ive always had trouble building drawers that slide smoothly. I’m thinking that lve been making the drawer tolerances are too large? The relative humidity where is live is low at this time of year. How much tolerance should I allow?
  17. Apparently I'm not the only woodworker interested in precision routing. Take a look at the delivery time on the Incra Precision Router Tool
  18. As I said previously, I'm hoping that I can prevent the snipe that was occurring on the outfeed end of my cuts due to the fence being uneven and the wood falling of the guide bearing. I've been using harder woods lately and I'm planning to use some of the really hard exotic stuff soon. I'm hoping that I can make small progressive cuts quickly and avoid dulling the bits and burning the wood. I may be all wet in my thinking but it was a fun project..!
  19. I've always enjoyed using my router table but I would get frustrated because I wasn't able to make small precision adjustments and because I would consistently get sniped on the outfeed end. I once purchased a higher end router table with a split fence and it was a disaster. I made so many modifications to the table that it wasn't recognizable. I made a number of attempts to make a router fence that could be adjusted in a very precise manner while moving evenly on both sides as it was adjusted. I just couldn't make one that I was satisfied with so I decided that instead of moving the fence to make the adjustments that I would move the router instead. I fabricated a frame made of 1x1x1/8" tubular steel and made a router carriage attached to the frame using premium drawer glides and a basic crank mechanism. The deck is 1 1/2" thick covered with a piece of Formica that I obtained from a local cabinet shop. The fence is made of 3/4" thick extruded aluminum and can be easily removed by loosening two knobs. The dust collection box is attached to the bottom of the router carriage and the box and the drawer fronts are veneered with paper-backed teak that I had leftover in the shop. So far, the trials a promising.
  20. I would like to thank everyone who offered suggestions regarding my planer problems! I waxed the deck, cleaned the rollers, replaced the brushes and checked the electrical input. No problems with the electrical input found. I have to say, that it works as good now as the day that I purchased it. I was able to plane hickory this weekend without any problems (using common sense and took small bites each time). I can't say which upgrade helped the most, but it really doesn't matter as long as it works. Thanks again....!
  21. Thanks for all of the insights..! Some of these things never crossed my mind. In response to some of your questions: 1. I run the planer on the slow speed 2. The planer is more than 3 years old 3. I haven’t cleaned the rollers. What is the best way to clean them..? 4. I’m going to purchase new brushes (looks like I can get them for under $30). 5. My son is an electrician so l’ll be enlisting his assistance. Thanks again for all of the comments..!
  22. I’ve recently noticed that my Dewalt tabletop planer has been shutting down frequently. I replaced the cutter head with a helical head and I’m aware that it takes more power to operate this type of cutter head; however, I was recently planing some 7” wide poplar making 1/32 to 1/64” cuts and it consistently shut down. I also noticed this happening with some 5” wide cherry. Is this a sign that more serious problems are on the horizon..?
  23. I just tried to get a Dewalt 20 v XR and it said that the promo code didn’t apply
  24. I just tried to get a Dewalt 20 v XR and it said that the promo code didn’t apply