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Everything posted by Hammer5573

  1. I’ve been experimenting with using more Gorilla glue on some of my projects because it’s bonds so much stronger than yellow glue. I’ve heard all of the complaints about it ( foaming, messy, impossible to remove if I gets on wood surface etc); however, now that realize that these can happen I prepare ahead for them. I use newspaper to cover all the work surface, I selectively wet the areas that I want to glue ( water activates the glue), I apply the glue SPARINGLY, and I apply blue masking tape all around the joint. I’ve done some pretty radical bent laminations recently using this glue and haven’t noticed any creep afterwards. I’ve even used it on a long legged mortise and tenon federal table that I completed without any problems. I still mostly use yellow glue but I do think that there is a place in woodworking for Gorilla glue
  2. Chip, It’s great to hear that us “Federalists (federal style woodworkers)” have another dedicated student of this style. No federal piece would be complete without the addition of an Oval Fan inlay (the holy grail of federal inlays; see below). I’ve made more than I care to count and I still don’t feel comfortable making them; however, if you would like a few tips on making them (learned from numerous screw ups) let me know I’d be happy to assist
  3. Chip, As someone who owns about every stringing and inlay tool ever made I think that I can make a few suggestions. When I’m doing straight line stringing I’ve learned to use a Dremel fitted with a good base and guide ( my favorite is the Veritas; it’s pricey). The biggest challenge is finding a bit that is the same diameter as the string thickness. I purchase my bits from Precision Tools. I use Latta’s radius cutter for curves; however, you gotta be careful because the blade on the cutter is pretty thick and creates a wide groove and can cause tear out. This is a problem if your string is thin.
  4. Has anyone tried a helical cutter on a Dewalt 735? How often do you rotate the cutters?
  5. Thanks for the response Ace. I did a “light scuff” only. I see where your going with this and it makes sense. Should I have used a more aggressive sandpaper besides doing a more aggressive sanding of the surface...?
  6. I’ve been using water based grain filler on my mahogany projects recently. I’ve noticed that the filler has left visible swirls when finished. I allow the filler to dry for 30-60 minutes and wipe it off. I also sand the surface lightly w/ 320# paper. I mix wood dye with the filler and I’m afraid of using more aggressive sandpaper fearing that I’ll remove some of the dye. I finished the project with 3 coats of shellac; sanding between each coat. Any advice appreciated...
  7. I’ve done a number of curved and bow fronts, I guess it’s because they’re so challenging (at least for me). I use 3/16” plywood for the door and drawer front cores. I use Gorilla glue for the bowed laminations and non-visible structural components because it’s very strong and there is no spring back. I’ve learned that you can’t use it liberally like yellow glue and that you have to anticipate the foaming that occurs when it cures. I apply a backer veneer for the veneered surfaces unless they’re made of MDF. I attach smal pieces of hardwood to both ends of the plywood drawer fronts using biscuit and Gorilla glue and use my Leigh jig to make the dovetails used to attach the drawer sides. The most difficult part was rabbiting the rounded bead mounding surrounding the curved surfaces. I used a table router and jig to do this; however, my first attempt cost me the tip of my finger (learned the hard way..!). Im sure that I could learn a lot more and welcome your informed responses
  8. My daughter and her husband just purchased a home in Fairfax Va. and wanted some federal style furniture to add to her collection . I just finished what I hope will be the final two pieces.
  9. Got it finished. I think it turned out all right. I used baking soda mixed with distilled water and used multiple applications to darken the legs. If I build another one I’m going to orient the grain of the center section of the apron vertically so there will be a better match with the legs.
  10. Thanks Chesnut for the advice because that’s been my concern all along. Is there a protocol for applying the Halogen light?
  11. I’m in the process of finishing a bow front chest. I veneered the cabinet sides and front apron with African Mahogany ( ignore the drawer fronts because they are a different species). I also used the same species for the legs (8/4).I compared the veneer with the 8/4 for color match prior to milling and I was satisfied . The legs are now much lighter in color and don’t match the veneer. I know that Mahogany darkens with age and assume that the legs will darken; however, should I try to match the legs using extra applications of the wood dye that I’m planning to use or will they even out if I leave them alone?
  12. I’m planning to apply grain filler to a mahogany veneer project that I’m completing I was told that I would be wise to apply dewaxed shellac before applying the grain filler. Is this true.?
  13. To be honest I don’t know what I’m going to make but it definitely will be something for indoor use
  14. My well intentioned son purchased a large roll of paper backed teak veneer for me for Christmas. Although this wouldn’t have been one of my choices, I want to try to use it on some type of project. I thought that I read that teak can’t be finished with traditional wood finishes? It seems to have a oily type of finish on it? Can anyone advise me on what type of finish to use?
  15. Would there be any advantage to applying furniture wax over a shellac surface..? Would this damage the finish?
  16. I’m seeing a lot of cheery like this in the lot that I was given Can anyone tell what kind this is? Are the black lines “fruit lines”?
  17. I’m making a jewelry box for my granddaughter but I’ve never made one where I profiled the sides. Now I can’t figure out how to install a latch. Any recommendations on type of latch and vendor would be appreciated
  18. Thanks for the responses. Based on your instructions I assume that, on a Federal style project, that I should: 1. Apply garnet shellac 2. Apply stringing and inlays 3. Apply clear shellac is this correct...?
  19. I’m planning to finish my next federal style project with garnet shellac. I’ve used shellac numerous times but I’ve never used this color. Is there anything untique to using this type of shellac?
  20. Can anyone tell me if planing strips of MDF 6” wide from 3/4” down to 1/2” would damage my planer knives? I can’t buy 1/2” where I live and I need them for a veneering project.
  21. I'm curious to know how many of you use full sized drawings when building your projects ? I rarely use them but I've seen them recommended by many authors. Do you make your own drawings or is there someplace where they can be printed (if not already supplied by a designer)?
  22. Is it my incompetence or is it next to impossible to hand plane cherry without tear out? I've tried using block planes and finish planes and I've attempted to plane in various directions trying to follow the changing wood grain without success. I guess I'm stuck with using the ROS. Any suggestions...?
  23. I've been using more thin kurf tablesaw blades recently. The problem that I'm having is that the Riving knife on my Grizzly 1023 is thicker than the saw blades, causing some of my rip cuts to stop mid-cut. Does anyone else have this problem ? Does anyone have any solutions?