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Chestnut last won the day on August 6

Chestnut had the most liked content!

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About Chestnut

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    Master Poster
  • Birthday 04/15/1988

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    : Minnesota
  • Woodworking Interests
    Cabinets. Furniture, Household.

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  1. Glue lines sometimes do that. I think it's less wood movement and more related to the glue.
  2. Indoor humidity swings in MN are 15% winter to 65% summer so that swing would happen twice a year at least.
  3. T1-11 siding, stain it, paint it, just poly. I don't think there is a wrong or right way to go. What ever you do trim it out. My shop has plywood and the edges are exposed and it really doesn't look nice. it's not an inviting space, though that's also not my intention. Some day I'd like to make it a nice inviting space but i have the rest of my life to accomplish that. Right now I want to build furniture.
  4. These 2 seem to contradict to me. If this was me I'd probably bust out the HVLP and spray it with something. That said spray can lacquer is a 2nd option to that. Otherwise I'd stick with a wiping poly / danish oil of some sort. The wiping finishes won't do much for sealing the piece like you mentioned. That said none of the other finishes will seal the wood to the point that they stop moving either. The best thing you can do with finishing is NOT #4. That's a surefire way to stay frustrated for ever. Practice is huge for finishing. I don't think i ever started to figure it out until i just did a lot of tests to see what works and what doesn't work.
  5. From my limited experience with boat folks they don't call polyester resin "epoxy". I called polyester resin epoxy and got corrected, quickly. This study was just covering various clear epoxy resins and hardeners. It appears that the hardener has a larger impact on performance than you would think. West System 207 performed well but 206 was awful. It sort of covered Gluing epoxy (WS 206) vs glassing epoxy (WS 207). The glassing hardener performed far far better. There were no polyester resins in the mix. This is why I've said multiple times, if someone is considering buying a a large quantity of epoxy specifically west system, get the 207 hardener. It's 98% as strong as the other hardeners but maintains it's clear far better and has more uses overall. The one main drawback is cure time. I don't consider that super critical for hobby work where the epoxy can be done in the evenign to come back to the following day. Don't worry about being too lazy there is way to much information on that website to digest in one sitting.
  6. Is it too late to try and just return all of the grizzly parts and go with the byrd head and possibly be done with any headaches that may come up? This sounds like a less than ideal experience and it's been interesting to follow.
  7. Test I read a while back. It degrades and has a life span of around 2-3 years upon full sun exposure. There is more information on epoxy on that site than you ever wanted to know.
  8. Defiantly true. I think i may have mentioned it in the post but the pictures do not to the color difference justice. It'd have looked off even with finish. I sometimes check with denatured alcohol or mineral spirits just to see what the finish will do for that reason.
  9. From what I've read the electric motors have an edge in power over the gas ones. If i were doing a mill that was stationary I'd probably go electric.
  10. Chestnut

    We're fine

    Good to hear that there weren't any damages or issues.
  11. I had a good weekend of work. After assembly of the case, I worked on the bottom shelf and prepping material for the doors. For the bottom shelf I wanted to use walnut but had some less than optimal material to use. It's kinda hard to see in the picture but it's very obvious in person. I used some boards that were very very light in color. They were probably victims of over steaming to blend heartwood and sapwood. The small board on top is the color of the rest of the external material. I glued 2 wide boards together with a narrow board in the middle, it just worked out visually the best this way at least to my eyes. There was one portion that needed some epoxy to fix a knot hole. This should add a bit of character to the bottom. With epoxy taking so long to fully cure I started working on prepping material for the doors. I still have a substantial amount of shorts that i got from a craig's list score. One would think that the shorts would be full of unsuitable material but the opposite is the case. The shorts had great color and contained a lot of rift sawn material that will work perfectly for door rails and stiles. The material is very rough though which makes it difficult to determine grain and color. After jointing one face and planing the opposite paralle. I found that one piece that i thought would work out great ended up having really wild grain and sub optimal color. Luckily i had another piece that could fill it that matched quite well. When selecting material for the rails I wanted to have some continuity in grain. I couldn't get a continuous piece all the way across the top and bottom, but I was able to get 3 pieces that had a flow that almost made it look continuous. After I had everything cleaned up so i could see the grain I selected parts that worked well and assigned every part a position on the door. I have more milling to do so I marked them all on the end grain to ensure I could keep everything strait.
  12. Frank That is a tough situation that's great that your family stepped up and is working to make things better. It's not easy to do. Don't feel selfish, I'd bet he is getting more out of the interactions that you think.
  13. Gotta love the smell of fresh asphalt. Got lucky with a 70 degree day. Paving when it's 90 is brutal.
  14. I can't remember the strip width but my thought if i did it would be to slice up 8/4 material.