Chestnut

Supporters
  • Posts

    8379
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    159

Chestnut last won the day on October 6

Chestnut had the most liked content!

4 Followers

About Chestnut

  • Birthday 04/15/1988

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Minnesota
  • Woodworking Interests
    Cabinets. Furniture, Household.

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

Chestnut's Achievements

Master Poster

Master Poster (3/3)

  • Helpful Rare

Recent Badges

6.2k

Reputation

  1. So i had the blade mounted on the saw. I would just inspect each tooth of the blade on both sides to find anything that stuck out. When I found something I used a diamond plate and working with the plate parallel to the band would remove the protrusion. Make sure not to touch the front of the tooth or the narrow part as that is ground a specific way to keep the blade running true.
  2. Just some questions per your comments because I'd like to try and help. What's up with the fence? Also what are you uncomfortable with? Also if your RK isn't leaving a smooth finish you might need to inspect the blade. I've had 2 that had solder whiskers that I needed to smooth out. More often than not I have a difficult time discerning the sawn edge of a board vs a jointed edge. I used a diamond plate and went from very rough to glass smooth.
  3. Don't limit it to just rough stock. It'll rip milled stock just as easily and quickly.
  4. Yes full scale mock ups will go a LONG way in helping visualize the proportions. Also i was guessing at dimensions just based off the thumb in the picture. I know my thumb is dang near a perfect inch wide. I end up using my thumb to measure things more often that I probably should... Not sure if i mentioned this in my post, make sure to use a rugged hardwood. Hickory, Elm, white oak, ash, any dense hard wood that resists splitting.
  5. Chestnut

    Bending wood

    That's a right radius for almost any bending of KD wood. If it were me I'd personally use bent lamination for something like this. If you don't want to do many thin plies find the thickness that you can bend with steam and then laminate them together to get the thickness you need. Or find some air dried wood. That can't be too hard in PA there are a lot of trees in that state.
  6. I really like that design and look. I'm not sure where you are concerned about strength but TVs are light. The 200 lb gorilla using the tv stand to hang a picture on the wall would be the largest load and i wouldn't think twice about it with your design. IMO your designed legs look to bulky and big. I strongly feel the design and look benefits from being delicate and light. A 1.5" leg tapered down to 1" would both be extremely stout and help the visual. As long as you kept grain run out to a minimum a 1.25" leg tapered to 0.75" would look pretty good and be more than strong enough as well. Ideally those legs would come from perfectly rift sawn material. Using 8/4 material you could rotate the blank inside the board to ensure proper grain orientation. In this post i showed some parallel clamp connectors, if you have parallel clamps. https://www.woodtalkonline.com/topic/29353-8-drawer-dresser-in-walnut/?do=findComment&comment=384638 Details on how I made them here. https://www.woodtalkonline.com/topic/29353-8-drawer-dresser-in-walnut/?do=findComment&comment=384753 The options above are suitable but I find myself in the situation where I need an extension more and more often and I use these a few times a year now. My only modification to them would be to glue on a top so the clamp bar is boxed on all 4 sides. It would just make them a bit easier to use.
  7. What are you using for a bag? It looks different from a trash bag I might find in a store. I've always mentally pushed back on the bags as unnecessary but i am getting sick of having to empty out my dust can. Oh also how does the bag impact the seal between the bin and the lid? I know from experience any air leaks there would dramatically increase the fines that get sent to the filter stack.
  8. My house was built in 1991 originally sold for $105k and is 2300 finished square feet. A house down the street similar to ours with a 0.3 acre corner lot sold for $486k. So while i think that house sold for a lot given the market around here they got a good deal.
  9. I do all of my hardwood rip cuts on the Bandsaw with the resaw king. I started working that way when i realised i was cleaning up table saw rip cuts on my Jointer. Might as well lose less wood due to the wider kerf and have a bit more safety. After 2.5 years of a lot of use I'm sending the RK off for sharpening.
  10. Nice work. I really like how the color of the bench? turned out and how it's complimented by the bowl.
  11. All WB poly does batter with thicker coats. Lay it quick and thick but not so much that it will run or drip. Then don't touch it. Sometimes the faster and more slopy the better... With in reason.
  12. I'm pretty sure it was acrylic hobby paint but i have no idea tbh.
  13. The resaw king lives in my 14bx band saw and it's hard to convince me to change it. For other blades i have a few 1/4" 3-4 tpi blades for small work. Outside those two I don't see much point. Oh DO NOT use the snodgrass method to tune the resaw king. From what I've been able to determine it puts all the strain on the gullet of the blade. For carbide blades this is the part of the band that has been hardened by brazing on the carbide teeth and it leaves the blade brittle and prone to snapping if all the tension is concentrated there. I've gone to putting the crown more towards the rear of the blade and I haven't snapped a blade in nearly 3 years now. I was breaking one every 6 months before.
  14. Probably from old fashioned IT guys but the company I currently work for and the company I used to work for both still do daily server backups to tape. Mind you the tape drives and tape reels were a hair smaller, Ok like 10 fold smaller, but my point is tape is still used.
  15. I've done oil poly -> paint -> water poly. Just make sure to scuff the surface well and give the oil poly a good long cure.