Chestnut

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Chestnut last won the day on May 26

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About Chestnut

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    Master Poster
  • Birthday 04/15/1988

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    : Minnesota
  • Woodworking Interests
    Cabinets. Furniture, Household.

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  1. I'm hoping that you go over that in detail that sounds super interesting. Is this epoxy different than the bartop stuff sold in box stores? I've seen many tables done with that stuff that look hazy from scratches after a few years.
  2. It has it's own built in mobile base. It doesn't have swivel casters but is generally easy to move around on concrete surfaces. Also keep in mind the 15% off sale is through may 31 only so don't miss that.
  3. A couple of door stops? I'm assuming you want to keep it mobile so if you can't take it off the permanent wheel best thing would be to block it in place with a wedge or 2. They wouldn't have to be commercial stops you could just use a couple wedges that are shop made. I keep the wedges from when i create tapers on legs for purposes like this all the time.
  4. That looks like a good effective setup. Lee valley self cleaning blast gates are really good and fit well with SDR35 pvc. I'm not sure if that's what you used. Do you have a blast gate at each tool? I've always wanted to buy an anemometer but never did because all it would really do is satisfy some curiosity but not really tell me much that I really need to know. I'd end up using it to do duct experiments spending time fiddling with things that probably should be left alone.
  5. Are you having a company install the countertops or are they something you are making? Punch line ask the professional they generally know and helped me out when I did my cabinets in my last house. It depends on the material you are using.
  6. This is something that you would have to make yourself. You could also look into a local WW guild and see if a member would be willing to resaw plys and sand them. A cabinet shop might be willing to do the same if you find one that does specialty work. The bending ply is going to be cheaper in the long run I'd bet.
  7. I'd probably use a block plane to clean up the end and adjust it square. I used a track saw to trim the ends of my Roubo bench and marking out all the way around and cutting from both sides got me close enough to be able to clean it up with a block plane. It depends on the tolerance you are shooting for and the use case i guess.
  8. @wtnhighlander No not at all it did cross my mind because my turbine HVLP doesn't work if the tip crusts over so i have to keep it clean. I think because there is ~2,500 psi behind the tip it blasts anything that dries out of the way. The sprayer spent multiple long periods between sprays while i had to move ladders, reposition, or do edging touch ups i wouldn't doubt if there were 2 hours breaks at times. I had to cover the paint pail to keep the top from skining over. The big downside is the waste for small projects. You are guaranteed to waste at least a cup of material every time you clean the sprayer. It's less so for the amount in the pump and spray house as that can be recaptured easily. Mostly it's just what sticks to the outside of the pickup hose. It's also very difficult to use small quantities. Less than a pint of paint in a 1 gallon can or less than a quart in a 5 gallon pail and there isn't enough for the sprayer to work. For detailed hard to coat objects the waste would be worth it. I wish i had this when i coated my firewood rack.
  9. Bah don't worry about being on topic. Yes it was quite thick, maybe not quite pancake batter, well maybe depending on how thick you like your pancakes. It honestly seemed a bit thinner than the Zinnser 123 primer I was using but not really any thicker than the interior paints i use. The big difference is there is zero sediment in the paint. I ran 15 gallons through the sprayer and didn't have a single tip clog and there was barley anything that got caught by the internal filters. I can't compare to BM paints I've steered away from any thing other than sherwin williams after Tom King posted about having poor luck with some other paints a while back.
  10. Thanks. Here land is cheap and winter sucks, the 3 stall was an absolute requirement when we were looking. I don't think any of my vehicles have spent more than a few days in a row outside. Though what is smaller in your neck of the woods? This house is 2,300 ft^2 finished with ~800 ft^2 unfinished (my basement shop). Most of the main floor has 10-12 foot ceilings. Which is on the smaller side for houses here.
  11. I find that awfully misleading. Comparing the quality and character of furniture made in our shops to a retail example it's very easy to save a lot of money. It doesn't make sense when comparing to Ikea garbage but then it's not really an apples to apples comparison. In pricing my work I've found that I've paid for my tools bits blades everything twice over. That's comparing handmade solid wood furniture to similar hand made solid wood furniture. This is of course if i work for free. I always work for free with the person billing my time is myself.
  12. Figured I'd post this here, painting is near complete. I have a couple windows in the back of the house but I don't mind painting those so much. I started washing the house May 14th. Here is the before. And After Soffits fascia gutters downspouts were all painted white with an airless sprayer. All aluminum parts were primed with the recommended primer from Sherwin Williams and painted with Emrald. I painted the downspouts outside but rain forced me to move them inside to finish drying. The sprayer i bought (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0026SR0FW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1) really made all of this easy. Painting gutters, soffits, fascia, and garage doors by hand would have been a nightmare and taken forever. The big garage door took about 10 min. The little door took the same time but I had to tape the locking handle. To help manage over spray i used cardboard shields. You can see them on the bottom of the door above. I used some handheld as well to protect the brick. This allowed me to paint very very close to surfaces and never have to tape or mask of areas. I also painted our front door. I took a low angle picture to highlight the spray quality. There was some orange peal but not awful. I could have laid down a better finish with my HVLP but that would have required a different paint and the results are good enough for a front door. Beats brush marks or roller texture. Total time in days to this point is 9 but rain really got in the way and extended the project a good 2 days. I'm looking forward to getting back to furniture, though the outside time was really nice. Maybe I'll find some landscaping to do this summer.
  13. I don't know about that. Have you seen how much those guys want for painter's tape these days? I need to get a box from my friend that works at 3M they sell it for $0.50 a roll to employees.
  14. Hum the one time that i did veneer I sanded off the veneer tape per a recommendation from a Member who too a few classes on veneering. A hard pad sander with 220 grit removed it quickly with minimal worry about sanding through. I also wonder how much did you wet the veneer tape before you applied it? I was working with genuine mahogany so the pore structure was the same and didn't have any glue get in the pores.
  15. Don't have to stock multiple tapes and you have varying sticky power depending on the tape you go with aka easier and cleaner release.