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Chestnut last won the day on August 24

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About Chestnut

  • Birthday 04/15/1988

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    : Minnesota
  • Woodworking Interests
    Cabinets. Furniture, Household.

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  1. So you have a front slab a rear slab and resin in between? If that's the case I'm not sure that the domino in the resin would add anything other than being a potential eyesore if you can see it through the resin. A large reason for the domino in the wood on miters is end grain is not an ideal glue surface and can suffer strength consequences as a result. Resin doesn't have the same properties and epoxy along the 2 joining surfaces of the resin would be similar to a long grain glue joint in wood. I would make sure that the resin glue surface had plenty of rough texture for the adhesive to get a good bite between the 2 surfaces and forgo any sort of reinforcement. As far as cutting joinery in resin. There is no reason the domino won't cut a perfectly decent mortise in it. Resin acts similar to a dense tropical hardwood with minimal grain and the domino works just fine on that material. I could get deep in the weeds on mechanics of materials on why joinery in resin wouldn't be as effective as in wood but I'm sure no one wants to read about that. Just know that woodworking joinery in resin/plastic/cured epoxy will not work as well as the same joinery in wood. I would agree with this. I would make shop stock much wider than the festool stuff and make multiple plunges close together to make a wide slot. As i mention above I'd keep the woodworking joinery in the wood and would just use epoxy on the resin edges.
  2. Oh yeah didn't think of that.... yeah don't mix aluminum and concrete. Come tot hink of it what benefit does concrete have for a router table top? MDF or melamine would be cheaper, easier to make and use, flatter and more accurate, and probably more durable in the long run. As I've said MANY times to home owners, there are 2 types of concrete pavement. Concrete pavement that has cracked and concrete pavement that is going to crack.
  3. Rough up the outside of the T track with some sand paper to provide some tooth and it's likely the concrete will grab it and hold it in place. Concrete isn't the greatest adhesive but it's high compressive strength and ability to mold to shapes usually allows it to hold stuff in place quite well. If they come out you can always epoxy them in after the fact. Epoxy usually adheres to concrete and aluminum well. Worst case you could always drill holes through and use flat head machine screws to hold the track in place.
  4. This is the product that I used. I might buy a package of the 5mm size to just have some around. They could be useful for pins in some other applications. As a note these are true metric sizes and the metric drill bits I have fit perfectly. Metric drills bit are always useful to have around.
  5. Festool syslite Kal II. Because i already have the 18V batteries. Alternatively it's one of the few tool lights that also has an internal battery so you don't have to use it with your tool battery. The odd shape and various angles on the light are quire useful. it also sports a tripod mount and hook, and a gigantic price tag (it was considerably lower when i bought mine). Doing it again I might be enticed by this But the internal battery of the Kal has some good value that has to be considered.
  6. My 16-32 has been great. The machine shouldn't shake that much something is out of balance on the drum or there is an issue with the sand paper. I'd see if you can inspect inside the drum to see if there is build up or check to see if the balancing weights have detached. Stepping though your video frame by frame it looks like the imbalance is on the paper clasp side. There should be a weight on the drum to off set the weight of the paper clip.
  7. Fully cure and cure to handle are 2 different things. I've used tung oil that cured to not leave residue on cloth in 8 hours. Yes it took 2 weeks to get full cure but that's the same with most curing finishes including polyurethane.
  8. Knocked out another quick project. Hazel needed a bow holder. I used some carbon fiber rods that I bought to repair my fishing rod. It turns out I only needed half of one of the 10 I bought. They are nice and rigid and take sanding well so I used them as pins for a holder. Used a keyhole bit to mount this too the wall. And then filled it up.
  9. If the finish is gone there isn't any cleaning it. Wood is a porus surface and I don't really know of any cleaner that will "clean" it. If it were me I'd clean the floor with some denatured alcohol to get the detritus off the surface and use some flooring paste wax. The wax will help give the porus wood something to hold that isn't dirt and maybe make it look a bit nicer. In the future when the floor is sanded the paste wax won't really impact that.
  10. I also forgot to post about the mail box support I made. I made this right before we went to the hospital for delivery. One of my neighbors gave me the bright ideal to combine our 4 individual posts in to a group post to clean up our mail box area. So i bought some treated timbers and went to work. The main brace extending out is attached to the post with a through tenon. I extended the through tenon backwards about 12". The cross braces the mail boxes sit on are a half lap joint secured with screws. The entire post is quite sturdy. I left about 36" of post to go below grade. It was a quick fun project.
  11. It was a day or two agao but they are all blending together. Dusted off the climbing gear for deer hunting and did some practice with my cousin. We climbed a few of the trees in my backyard just to make sure that we still knew how to and wouldn't make mistakes come fall. While at it I tied off the pole saw and trimmed some branches. This picture makes it look like my cousin is hovering in mid air. Even with my feet 25 feet of the ground my exceptional 5 foot 6 inch stature and 12 foot pole saw, there were still quite a few unreachable branches. The crotch in the ash (left) and Elm (more center) are roughly 20 feet up. These trees would make some wonderful lumber some day in the very distant future.
  12. I got some real shop time for the first time in 6 weeks. The first thing on the bench was to make some extensions for the handle for the wagon stroller. The axle for the wagon runs across the back and while pushing you hit your feet on the axle often. Megan asked for a fix so I figured this was the easiest way. I made the extensions on the lathe from some Elm. I cut down a tree years ago and cut blanks to make rolling pins. I made 1 rolling pin that gets decent use and a 2nd was never requested. The elm should be strong enough to pop wheelies still with the stroller. It should make it easier giving the pusher (me) some more leverage.
  13. How do you differentiate between the buck and doe? Is the doe just a little bit smaller? I've always enjoyed making the little reindeer. I probably have 10-15 scattered around my house. I'm sure with the little one around I'll be making more in the future.
  14. Funny the doctor literally just told us that exact same thing.
  15. I have a cheap drill press chuck from amazon and a 4 jaw i feel they are an and buy not an or. There are some drilling operations that are just easier to do on the lathe but are difficult with out the 4 jaw. She triggered tanitus worse then my trim routers. She's turning a corner 6 weeks is this Friday and from all reports that's when things improve. Night times so far are her best periods so I'm getting a good 7 hours of sleep each night though it's between 8pm and 7am....