Chestnut

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Everything posted by Chestnut

  1. OK i'm confused because the Euro guides look identical to carter guides. Am I missing something? I always thought euro guides were the ceramic guides.
  2. My only knock on magnets is they have magnetized my tools so they then pull towards other metal tools. Though it doesn't stop me from using them either.
  3. I like the PM1000, it'll work well for you. Being a 1.75hp saw I don't' feel limited by it. Make sure to have good sharp blades that fit the situation. If you are trying to cut 2" thick hardwood a 20T ripping blade is a MUST. Nice part on the PM saws is blade changes are nice and easy as they have an arbor lock. Something i recently found out not all saws have.
  4. If you have questions please ask. I wish I could show you in person as it helped me a lot to learn but we don't live that close to each other.
  5. This isn't a review of a specific product but more of a review of a product idea. I bought some of these magnetic shelve things off amazon to use as storage on machines. Most of our machines are steel and magnets stick well to them. I always loose pencils tape measure ect, and always have the Allen wrenches and other accessories that you need to adjust things. Before i used the parts treys which work but they made the Allen wrenches rulers and other steel parts magnetic which became slightly annoying. The shelf is a much better idea as it allows me to also hold non-magnetic objects close at hand. I have one on the front of my table saw that holds the adjustment tool for the incra miter gauge my table saw nut wrench and some allen wrenches for various jigs ect. I also have one on my bandsaw that is more centrally located that has a ruler in it (it's below the edge) a bunch more allen wrenches. and has more tape measures that are in plain sight. They have a weight limit and won't be able to hold a TON of weight but some hand tools rulers and a couple tape measures aren't half of what they can hold.
  6. I have a lot of the 6" jorgensen clamps pre-sell-out and have loved them and use them a ton. the 6" is probably my most used clamp in the shop i have them everywhere. Before they sold to Great Star or which ever Chinese company they were $8-10 each. I should go get a pack, it'd be interesting to compare them to the older ones.
  7. Oh also big benefit to cutting them after the fact is you don't have to worry about tear out doing the cross grain cuts with a circular saw. There is no guarantee that veneering oversize and cutting to fit won't chip out.
  8. I'd have the drawer fronts cut to size with the dovetails done. It might be more tricky to get the veneer trimmed after the fact but you have a huge advantage of not having to worry about messing up the drawer front, which probably won't happen. For trimming the veneer i wouldn't use a flush trim bit. That's like taking a 48" bar chain saw out to cut a twig. If you've used veneer you should be aware that it's thin and cuts very well with a utility knife. If you were unaware veneer cuts really well with a utility knife . I'd do a practice board with maybe a similar veneer or a scrap piece. Attach it to the small board and then very lightly use the board as a strait edge and cut through the veneer. The key here is to NOT try and make the cut in one pass. For long grain work a fellow forum member taught me to use very very light pressure down and heavy pressure against the strait edge to score the veneer. The strait edge in your case is the drawer front. Then progressively apply a bit more pressure to cut the rest of the way through. This should take roughly 4-5 passes. It sounds tedious but it goes quite fast. This helps prevent the splintering. For end grain you want to try and prevent blowing out when you complete the cut. I suggests making the end grain cuts first. They are similar to the long grain cuts with the exception that you want to make partial length cuts starting towards the end of the cut working your way forward. So if you are pulling the knife towards you start on the corner closest to you and work your way away from you. Again with the light pressure down but good pressure against the strait edge or your drawer face. You again want to take about 5-6 passes. What this does is it severs the grain first in the place it's most likely to blow out allowing you to more forward more towards the area that there will be more grain support. If the veneer starts to split I'd stop and assess and proceed with even less downward pressure. If the veneer ends up a bit proud of the surface at this point I'd call that a win and use some very light sanding to flush it up completely. I don't think there is anything helpful, but this is a project i did with veneer.
  9. I appreciate G&G from a woodworking stand point and I think the BIG difference is tastefully done and over done. Some of the stuff that is made like Darrell's Fremont dresser or that bench that Marc made not that long ago look good to me. Then there are other G&G pieces that have 50x too many ebony plugs and it seems like the creator just went overboard. It's like comparing the amount of sequence, glitter, feathers on a Vegas showgirl compared to a regular lady. One has none or an appropriate amount they other has way WAY too much, but it catches your eye.
  10. I don't have a combo machine and I'm glad that I didn't purchase one. Carrying something that heavy into my basement would have sucked! If i didn't have a basement shop I'd have bought one.
  11. One thing that is nice with moble bases is if any sort of maintenance or repair needs to be done. I had a set screw come loose on my jointer and it was very easy to fix. It was the first time in 2 years I'd moved the thing.
  12. Did you catch the lawsuit in 2015 he filed against every maker of table saw for" conspired to boycott SawStop’s safety technology and corrupt a private safety-standard-setting process". The original case and appeal were both dismissed. It was interesting though. He seems like he's more interested in doing lawyer things than table saws. Just in case you missed it the above is a link to the US courts document.
  13. Interesting. Yeah videos are good. I like books tough as i can flip back to a specific tool or section quickly and i can get the information faster than some one can speak it. A 2 min video showing me how a tool works would be good too. I can't focus for some of the 45 min + tutorials though. I end up playing around and figuring out most of the stuff and then have to endlessly search for the stuff i didn't find. Just a warning, like Ross mentioned FreeCAD is free and will always be free. Fusion360 is on the whims of Autodesk. If they get bought out and the company that buys them decides they no longer want to provide storage for your files you are SOL.
  14. This is true. The meat cutting band saw method is pretty interesting as well. It's been posted around. If it were me I'd create a system that has a brake on the blade and then make the user dip their fingers in nano bots. Track the nano bots and when ever they get with in a 1/4" of the blade activate the brake. Only because nano bots and woodworking would be an awesome pair.
  15. Man makes me hungry for a hotdog.... got one in the fridge for lunch This is an awesome system, defiantly improves on what Bosch did let alone the sawstop system. The blade destruction and brake system was ok for a first iteration but I'm almost slightly disappointed after seeing this that Sawstop stopped innovating. Hindsight makes this seem like the next logical step. I'm goign to continue to be irritated I'll never get a slider into my shop.... too big and too heavy.
  16. @Mark J Have you tried https://f360ap.autodesk.com/courses I'm not criticizing any of the software either. I'm just pointing out that Fusion360 is intended to be perpetually free for people that are using it for hobby use or commercial use that makes less than $100k/year. Autodesk, despite their other failings, is good at putting their products in the hands of individuals for free. @wtnhighlander My comment may came off as critical at FreeCAD, wasn't my intention. From my first 100foot view of using it for about 2 min it seems awfully capable but appears to have a steep learning curve. I personally found fusion to be a little bit less steep (like 0.5%) but I've been using Autodesk products, much to my displeasure, for a large part of my life . Personally i think strait up AutoCAD 3D is the easiest and fastest way to do what you want but I can't find a way to get you that software for cheap let alone free.
  17. https://www.autodesk.com/campaigns/fusion-360-for-hobbyists Trimble never all of a sudden charged. They bought the software from google and then monetized it. Autodesk is a pretty decent company and will keep fusion free for startups under $100k and hobbyists and students. They know they can't make money off of the little fish at $400/year.
  18. Well it seems like they are really gunning after Fusion360, and well that is also free so....
  19. That wouldn't work for me. I have to install programs quite often. There are a ton of public domain hydraulic modeling programs that get random updates. I got FreeCAD installed I'm gonna see what this is all about.
  20. I wonder if i'll get in trouble if i download FreeCAD to my work computer.....
  21. Beings that we are having grinder discussions. Low speed grinders show up a lot for sharpening tools. Is there a point to have a high speed grinder around if I'm never going to do metal work? Could i use the low speed grinder for other grinding tasks like sharpening my mower blade or taking a 1/4" off of a screw?
  22. And Megan just doesn't understand why I don't really care to have a dog when we have a house full of carpet...
  23. I feel like a shovel is a good tool for lathe work in that case . Maybe the vacs have gotten better in the last 5 years, all i remember is being about to go for about 30 min and then becoming the center of a dust cloud trying to clean the filter. Maybe i was doing it wrong. Yes they are expensive, had that opinion, bought one used for a good deal. Then realized their benefit and bought another one. Chips go to my collector, my floor sweep gets used a ton and is really nice. For the festool bags i dump them out 4-5 times before tossing them so getting multiple uses is nice. It's easier to dump one of those bags through a 37mm hole than it was cleaning one of the old vac filters. I had a dust deputy and the space those things take up is miserable. It's far and away worth the extra $200 to not have to drag one of those units around. Make fun of me if you like, i used to think all festool was over priced BS, now i only think a good portion of the tools are overpriced BS.
  24. I hate to be that guy, but i don't think i could go back to a regular utility vac after running a CT vac. Cleaning pleated utility vac filters is a misery i never want to to ever again. I'd consider running a bagged utility vac but it doesn't seem like they are set up to handle it very well.