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Everything posted by Chestnut

  1. That is an excellent idea. I'll have to look into those files. I've used metal ones before but i always feel like I'm doing something wrong there.
  2. Most people really don't know what their property boundaries are don't they? This is really weird.
  3. I'm awful at complete thoughts. Painting isn't going to be fun at all. On the plus side I've only found 1 rotten board so far.
  4. So frame and panel construction isn't the most exciting so i skipped some of the repetitive parts and skipped to the fun parts. Sides together and long rails cut brings us here. The stock for the horizontal dividers is sitting on top. I cut it to length accounting for 1.25" tenons and dovetails. After cutting to length I cut the shoulders on one end. This allowed me to dimension the exact location of the other shoulder from the project. The tenons aren't the exact same length as a result but it doesn't matter much if one is 1.2" and the other is 1.3". After the shoulders were cut i cut a dovetail onto the ends of the top divider. After a bit a chopping the tail was cleaned up and it was time to scribe the socket on top of the leg. I used a forstner bit to remove the waste and then diligently worked my way back to the scribe line with chisels. They aren't perfect but after working In i got a tight fit and it locks the legs together really well. The lower horizontal divider will have a twin tenon. I cut these at the bandsaw. The tenons are 3/8" with 1/4" in between and 1/8" on either side. I make sure to stay away from the baseline. After cutting the bulk at the bandsaw cleanup with a chisel to the baseline is pretty easy. Tenons first is a bit more tricky than mortise first but it makes layout somewhat easier in a way. I clamped a board to two faces of the leg and then scribed around the outside of the tenon. After scribing the lines, i removed the bulk of the waste with the drill press and chiseled to the lines. On the long grain portions i made sure that i kept the chisel as square to the face as I could as that is where the good glue connection comes from. Fit like a glove. With the horizontal dividers done now it's on to the vertical dividers.
  5. Started pressure washing the house today. There were some areas where paint flaked off but it wasn't terrible. Painting the exterior isn't going to be much fun... I only found one rotted trim board.
  6. From Q: Are your filters washable? A: No, we do not recommend washing. Our woodworking filters are cleaned-down from the outside with about 60 PSI of compressed air. Just use your blow-off nozzle.
  7. I don't think that you should wash it with water. It depends on the filter type as Frank said. Even if it's spun fiberglass I'm not sure that washing with water is a good thing. If your pleated filter is the paper type you never will get it completely clean but that's ideal. The particulates that build up in the filter help increase the overall filtration. It's at the cost of airflow but this should be accounted for in the design of the collector. The period of this is called seasoning and you may have read references to it before. If you washed a paper filter it may well be ruined. If it's working now i wouldn't wash it again. My method for cleaning the filter is a leaf blower. Take it outside and blow in 1 end and out the other. Compressed air blowing from the outside in is another way to help loosen material. The goal is to remove the large buildups of dust not necessarily make it look "new" again.
  8. Even if it's thinner and not representative it may give you some information on how much sanding abuse the top can take. Typically the veneer even of a different quality or species will be the same thickness.
  9. Clean up with mineral spirits indicates oil based stain. Make sure it gets enough time to dry. 48 hours is safe if the piece isn't sitting in 75 degrees and 35% RH.
  10. Is the bottom of the top the same as the top of the top? I'd flip it over and test how to achieve the results you desire on the bottom before you attack any visible surface. Specific products would be extremely important. If you applied a minwax oil based stain 3 hours is no where near long enough. 24 hours minimum possibly 48 hours when cool and damp. With oak conditioner is rarely necessary unless it's providing a specific look you are going for. It will reduce how much stain is absorbed and could be cause the issues you are seeing on the legs. The conditioner also prevented the stain from absorbing into the wood on the top and could have contributed to the lifting that occurred when you applied the poly. To fix the issue you are likely to have to stand back to bare wood. Now beings that you are going to stain and finish again you may not need to go back all the way to 100% bare wood. Some of the pores in oak are quite deep and to remove all previous stain may bring you dangerously thin on the veneer. With tests on the bottom you may be able to remove say 80% of the stain or just enough that the area between the large pores is clean, and reapply. This is possible because you aren't changing colors. TEST TEST TEST. Only by testing in a hidden spot can you be sure. It will also tell you how much you can sand and if you go through the veneer you won't be ruining the top. Stripping may be an option as well but I'm unfamiliar with it.
  11. Finished the woodworking side of the card box. At some point it'll get a sprayed finish (probably brown) and w ill have cards written on it. Not to bad for my first hand cut dovetails.
  12. I have 2 #3s actually i put a bid on 1 not expecting to win and did. The other one had a non standard tote and knob. I should make better ones (these ones wobble and aren't very nice to use) and use it as a scrub plane. The Hock iron would probably work really well for that type of work as the steel would be softer to rework. I don't care to use the Stanley irons as if I ever upgrade and stop using them it'd be neat to have the original unmodified iron to go with the plane. That and they are kinda thin and soft as well...
  13. I don't think that anything was damaged honestly. There must have been some blemish 100 years ago when it came out of the factory. I found a post somewhere that claimed in WWI era they were sending all the tools that met spec out to military contracts and the "damaged" or "Imperfect" ones were sold to employees. What ever cause it to be flagged damaged was probably coverd by rust and I probably removed. It works great. I do regret getting the O1 hock cap and iron though. The first time i used it the blade developed a nick even though i was planing clean wood. I haven't been using it since as a smoother because the nick leaves an imperfect surface. I should have gotten the PMV-11 cap and Iron like I wanted to originally. I really like the size though, it fits my hands well and is versitle. The narrower iron compared to a #4 makes it a bit easier to push.
  14. Yeah. Though i have to admit the movie wouldn't be near as good nor entertaining without the over the top accent.
  15. Ya you betcha. I grew up with the accent. Movie is pretty cringe worthy in how much they over emphasize the accent very few people's accent is that thick.
  16. That's warmer than some of my walks to class when i was going to school in Fargo.
  17. No i upgraded to the 15" Powermatic HH planer last October. the 735 is a good machine though. There are aspects of It that I miss and some aspects I don't. Good luck. Hope you stay warm becuase i'ts not goign to be a nice weekend i don't think. Your mean, i can't get anything from my yard the 12-15 deer that roam through eat everything in sight.
  18. The problem is the person that is supposed to be keeping an eye on it.... Seeing that fresh planed surface roll out of the planer is way more exciting than watching a bin fill... .
  19. Too full for comfort....
  20. There is a huge stand of 500-600 mature tress near La Crosse, WI. I think it's the largest mature stand of American Chestnut. ACF has been using the stand for research for years i believe. I've been meaning to visit it during spring bloom sometime.
  21. What town in SD did you hunt near? I need to go phesant hunting sometime. I've always meant to but ...never got around to it when i lived in ND.
  22. My guess is hallow chisel mortiser free standing machine. I got my shipping notification for 4 American Chestnut trees. I'm kind of excited to see what happens.
  23. I was working 14 hours a day from home. I didn't get any woodworking done in the last 6 weeks it feels like. I've been back in the office since Monday and i swear my productivity took a noose dive. Boss doesn't see it that way so i guess that's all that matters.
  24. So wood will oxidize of sorts when unfinished. It gives it a slightly grey appearance. It appears your issue is that the whole door would need to be sanded evenly before finishing. The door you already have finished would need to be sanded back to raw wood. I worry with the engineered doors how they are built and if there is a thin veneer on top of particle board. If that's the case be careful sanding removing too much wood will remove the oak veneer leaving ugly spots.
  25. I never expected the clamp to work so well. I bought one as part of a set of something and they really are good. I always thought it was kinda fiddly but it's good to know the cloth strap ones are worse.