Chestnut

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Everything posted by Chestnut

  1. Ok i like that. I might just get a pair of those when i buy that 9' track and keep it in my garage. I'll mount it to the back of m garage door. Brilliant!!!
  2. I've gravitated away from making templates as i hate template routing. If i do make a template to keep curves consistent I'll make them out of 1/4" mdf but i really only use them for a pencil line. Then i just saw close to the line and clean up with hand tools. So it depends on how you work. I've never made nor used a story stick. I can see how they'd be useful but I usually just end up using project parts. Why use some other wood when the project material will work all the same and leaves less waste.
  3. The change is so slow and minuscule that i doubt you'll notice it. It's not like 19 years 355 days you'll be ok with the color but at 20 years your going to say "nope too light time to go". But no it doesn't really bother me. Most of what i make is cherry so it's only going to get better looking as it ages. Walnut gets a lot of hype and for good reason it's a beautiful wood and is wonderful to work but i think the fact that it ages lighter is one of the very few drawbacks one other being the price with the final one being that it tends to have more knots than cherry. The other thing is i tend to celebrate that wood changes color instead of dread it. I love natural processes and think that if this is how nature designed it, i'm happy to be along for the ride.
  4. Hum i don't think that you mentioned that FreeCAD was free....
  5. That's good to hear that after 2 checkups everything is well. I can't imagine how scary that must be. As far as the wood working class i feel i must say pic or it didn't happen . I hope you get a chance to go back and finish what you started. I also hope that you can share a picture with us of the end result.
  6. Combine is what you are looking for. It's a tool that is used to subrtract a solid from another solid. Fur turnings revolve is your friend and combine (subtract or cut) is how you'd remove the portions in the quadrants like you typically do.
  7. That board doesn't look like oak to me but it's hard to tell. The fastest method is smell. When cutting the wood there is a very obvious difference between them. Good clean end grain pictures are the most accurate. As far as value it all depends on if you can find the right buyer. Also how clean you can get the boards would be a big factor as well. If they are caked in dirt and full of nails not many people will want to buy.
  8. The polyurethane glues will stick to anything but i think scraping the finish off is your best bet as well.
  9. I had the 745 which is the newer version of this saw and i assume there are some minor differences but on the whole they look similar. I made mine work fore a few years while i build a fair amount of furniture and some kitchen cabinets so they are capable. They are essentially a circular saw motor attached directly to an arbor. Mine had little run out and decent enough power as long as i used think kerf blades and didn't feed to fast. Make sure the fence hasn't been damaged as it's difficult to use anything but the one that is on it. You might be able to get replacement parts but if a bracket is damaged or something major is bent it'll be a nightmare. If there isn't any apparent damage it's probably ok but make sure not to over pay on the used market. People tend to value their possessions a lot higher than if it isn't their own. It is made in Germany it can't be that bad..... those Germans know a thing or two about engineering i hear.
  10. It's full across the back row and i have another tree yet to cut down that my neighbor wants to get rid of. I'll probably have it full and still have some overflow. Luckily i don't heat with wood only gas so this is just for recreational fires.
  11. I was going to vote cherry it's a good medium color and pairs very well grain and texture wise with walnut. The are a match made like lamb and tunafish.
  12. So how many board feet total, just W.A.G (wild a** guess) it? I was worried about my self but now you make me feel a lot better. I estimate that i'm somewhere between 1,000 and 1,500 BF. I also want to get into chainsaw milling very soon. I've almost pulled the trigger on a 661 multiple times but know i need a 15" planer first. Though the wood does have to dry a long time so maybe the chainsaw is the better first buy.... bah decisions!
  13. Got it finished and in place. I used flood cwf-uv finish because i got it free and why not. Starting to get it filled up.
  14. Beautiful work i also like the touch of sapwood in the bottom. That must be cow pee walnut the color looks awesome. Hope the flavor doesn't come through .
  15. Thanks to @Chip Sawdust and @Tom King for their contribution to the thread. I added their suggested books, Chip recommended some that fell outside the scope of this thread and called to attention that i should start a thread that covers construction techniques so sometime in the future I'll tackle that as well in the same format as this one. I also have some PDFs of books, old books that might be public domain. PM for more details. REFERENCE POST
  16. Paul where did you get your ammonia? Did you get it locally or order online?
  17. Hey hey hey i only forgot glue that one time.... well and that other time.... I think i should have worded that a bit differently. I bet they are nice with a track saw but i have had decent luck with a shorter square. These kenix ones are nice because they have a thick blade. https://www.amazon.com/Kinex-4034-12-020-Machinist-Square-0-0008/dp/B079R8BVYW/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=kinex+square&qid=1565872081&s=gateway&sr=8-4 My draw to the WP stuff isn't the size but that they make it from material that doesn't rust. I have to go through and wax my squares just like my planes and cast iron. Speaking of that i really should wax everything again it's been a while.
  18. I wish i had easy access to a bunch of QS sycamore. I've always thought it was a pretty wood but haven't found a source for it and it doesn't grow locally. My favorites are below. Chestnut, but i haven't made anything from it because i only have 3 boards and well.... it's not like the tree is really around any more.... Redwood Birch is another favorite for both secondary wood and using figured stuff for primary wood. I also have some Chokecherry that is pretty interesting to work with.
  19. It'd be interesting if the cut out all the bells and whistles and just made them blank if they could sell them for a lot less. All that CNC milling and laser etching measurements has to take a long time to set up and will increase waste that they have to make up for and is it really useful? A big square like these would be nice and there aren't a lot of options but at the same time my 10"x7" square gets the job done. I don't feel that my furniture is falling apart because i used a $25 square over a $250 one.
  20. I think the hand tool cabinet will come first. I need to get a new planer, and the roubo is a milling heavy project.
  21. If you do solid wood, movement becomes something you should worry about with the shelves. The best way would e a sliding dovetail or a breadboard style connection to the side panel. The bookcases i made a year ago were solid wood and have a very open feel to them. They have held up very well over a full year of humidity changes. 1 thing i consider is that good quality plywood doesn't necessarily save money over hardwood but it's easier to use for some situations.
  22. Thanks for the detail on the chisel holder. I swear I'm going to make a hand tool cabinet one of these days.
  23. That's a good idea for lifting the bench up. Part of me worries that the dominoes in the softwood will eventually fail but maybe not.
  24. I'd try one first but it does come in 3 sizes. It does clog like some of the cheaper bits but a light tap usually clears it unlike the cheap ones. I usually only use #8 screws so i will only buy one.
  25. I can't remember where i posted them. I should probably make a dedicated post.