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Everything posted by Chestnut

  1. The machine is extremely easy to work on. When i replaced the standard head to HH on mine I was elated the attention to detail that was taken in the design to make the machine easy to assemble from the factory and easy to work on. I respectfully disagree. The noise reduction was huge.It went from foam ear plugs with ear muff style over top to just using some reusable 20 DB plugs.
  2. The LN one is leaps and bounds ahead of the WP one. You can attach plates to sharpen short irons as well as skew irons. Also SS > Aluminum. The amazon one does suck, sucks alot, but it works good enough for the once every 3 years when i need to reset an angle on a plane iron.
  3. Well if i ever get around to figuring out tinting maple I'll like it a lot more..... Naa air dried. It was pretty green yet, doesn't bother me i have enough stash that i can dry my own lumber. For air dried I'd rather pay less and dry it myself. Gives me the ability to make sure that it's weighted right and that it's dried slowly. I just wanted to get a rise out of you. It was mill run lumber so it was ungraded and was kinda junk. After waste it came to about $4/bf and i had to dry it myself.
  4. It's not my fault you live 1,000 miles away. I'd be there to help buy a 16 hour drive is a rough commute just for discounted lumber. Plus i don't know that you'd want to compete with Minnesota prices . I bought some walnut for $2 / BF.
  5. Chestnut

    Used SawStop

    If you hired you'd want to find a company that moves gun safes but they are probably goign to use the machine you linked. At that weight even the typical stretcher style i use to move table saws would be iffy. I'd do it because 215 lbs a person isn't that terrible when you have good hand holds but I'm young and dumb.
  6. Angles up to 12-13" wide i can get with a miter gauge on the table saw. Beyond that i feel that marking out and sawing to the line is more accurate. Also the way i work exact angles isn't necessary. If i needed 2 45 degree miters to make a 90 degree corner I'd get close have the parts over sized and then trim the critical edge square after the fact. if it's 47 and 43 who cares no one is going to measure it and tell me my miter is slightly off.
  7. Can't help but think that one could save them selves a lot of money by just using the guide this product was designed off of? Or practice free hand sharpening 99.999% of the time the angle doesn't matter.
  8. Isn't the big benefit of a track saw being able to mark out points and connect them with the cutting edge of the track? I'd just do the math on the angle, make to marks and throw the track down. The benefit of this is over longer distances your accuracy increases where as with something like this over longer distances inaccuracy gets exaggerated.
  9. Chestnut

    Used SawStop

    I still and always will advocate for completely disassembling a table saw to move it. This device seems like it would help a lot after it's disassembled.
  10. No. You want to be on the higher end of that sizing anyway. It's going to have more restriction on air but will separate the fines out better. Also the cyclone is sized to the motor HP out of convince. A cyclone should be sized based off the amount of air that moves thorough it. On my 3 HP system when i shut down all the blast gates and just have my table saw port open the cyclone isn't receiving enough air to effectively separate fines. The power of the motor running the impeller doesn't matter. What the power of the motor allows you to do is to reduce restrictions (hard pipe, larger pipe, more ports open, venting outside, ect) and flow more air. A smaller power motor will become overloaded and will eventually burn out. In our dust collection systems the induction motors only pull as much power as they need so when you have a ton of restrictions and it's only flowing 350 CFM it's only using 1/2 HP. If the motor is 5 hp it's still only using 1/2 HP because it's only moving 350 cfm. Now if you open things up and move 1050 CFM you'll need 1.5 HP. So the motor will pull current equal to 1.5 HP. {numbers for example purposes only they are not realistic numbers} 350 CFM equates to 5 fps air velocity inside the cyclone if you increase the amount of air to 1050 CFM that velocity will be 15 fps. Because the cyclone is spinning the air in a circle the dust gets flung against the wall of the cyclone and because of the cone shape gravity pulls it down the edge of the cone into the dust bin. The lighter the particle the faster the velocity you need. What this means. Well there isn't much point to upgrade to a 2 HP blower if you don't use the 2hp of it. How do you know how much you use? Get an amp meter and measure how much draw your current system has. As you modify and upgrade that draw will increase or decrease. It can also tell you if the stuff you are changing is having an impact. It also doesn't seem you are willing to change your setup so I'm not sure how much improvement you will see. If you want to make the situation better you will have to hard pipe and install blast gates and wyes ect. The above and below are why I said if it's a problem with your neighbor it's easier to just talk to your neighbor. I don't know this stuff that well. I've only had a couple classes in fluid dynamics and most of that revolved around incompressible fluids (water). Could get into the weeds on how ideally you'd want a blower that is designed to pull a bit higher vacuum and doesn't flow as much air to be able to force the air through the system better. And how each blower impeller is going to have it's own pressure map that looks something like what is below and that they are all different and won't necessarily flow the same amount of air with different restrictions. But until you can read the image below i wouldn't worry to much about it. The other thing is good luck finding these for woodworking dust collectors......
  11. This is why i'm updating the main post so that way we can be our usual selves and the information is still easy to find. So no worries and carry on.
  12. It's called quit your day job.....
  13. Purchased.... for $4 i'm sure i'll get something useful out of it.
  14. There are a lot of ideas floating around. I think a few pictures would probably help. We can make a lot of guesses but that doesn't tell us the story.
  15. I could keep bumping it to the top or another option is to politly ask if it could be pinned or stickyed?
  16. Ebay is a great idea. I linked to amazon because they often sell used books as well for really cheap. Also it's a stable link so someone (probably me) can read about the book. in the future. Yes exactly what i was looking for. I'm wondering if i shouldn't add some text about the book and then leave the handle of the person that recommended it. If any one is not ok with getting taged in the post let me know and i'll remove it. I'll leave the quote anonymous.
  17. Man this reminds me of my childhood swing set. Most parents would think "better make it low to the ground so when they climb on top they wont' get hurt". My dad's method was to build ours 12-13 feet tall so we were to afraid to climb on top. I wanted to put 20 feet because that's how I remember it. He made it from cedar 6x6s for legs and laminated 3 2x8s for the beam across the top. It never moved because each post was 5 feet in the ground and then had concrete poured around each leg..... I think it had room for 4 plus the slide.
  18. I just cleared up some space in my shop that oddly enough is the perfect size for a lathe.......
  19. I started this because it was pointed out to me that this could be a good reference spot if someone else has questions like this. So throw stuff out there and lets see how much information we can compile. I'll update this post with links ect This way we can hijack and still have a solid post to reference with out our inevitable bickering. Tom King mentioned Ebay as an excellent resource for used books. Some can be had for $3-$5. I left links to amazon out of ease it is by no way a plug for amazon. If you are going to buy a new book I URGE you to try and buy direct from the author. You may pay a bit more but from everything I've heard a larger percentage of the cut goes their way if you buy from them. Side benefit they are generally signed. 17th 18th 19th Century (period furniture) Albert Sack: Fine Points of Furniture "For period furniture" -Tom King Verna Salomonsky: Masterpieces of Furniture This is quite a good reference that covers mostly Queen Ann, Chippendale, and Hepplewhite styles. There are a few William and Marry pieces as well. The text is brief but the pictures come with a detailed dimensioned drawing. -Tom King Franklin Gottshall: Simple Colonial Furniture "This one is very worthwhile, if for nothing more than the first 18 pages on the "essentials of design". " -Tom King Norman Vandal: Queen Anne Furniture "´╗┐Hundreds of pictures, scale drawings, and various others such as tools being used. Also for anyone thinking about building any kind of furniture"- Tom King Arts & Crafts / Mission Robert Lang: Shop Drawings for Greene and Greene Furniture Mid-century Modern / Variants Mike Pekovich: The how and why of woodworking " It's not as cerebral as the Krenov or Nakashima I've listed, but well worth the time to read. " -Bmac James Krenov: The fine Art of Cabinetmaking "not only gives practical advice but he talks of how to excel, be your best. The photos are inspiring and his attention to detail is incredible." -Bmac James Krenov: A Cabinet Makers Notebook "First in the 3 book series by Krenov" James Krenov: The Impratical Cabinet Maker "Third in the 3 book series by Krenov" Sam Maloof: The Furniture of Sam Maloof, and Sam Maloof, Woodworker "Not how to books but books for inspiration. You can find out the how to through other avenues, but you get the inspiration in these books" -Bmac George Nakashima: The soul of a Tree " To me no other book connected me more to the medium woodworkers work with than this boo´╗┐k " -Bmac Shaker Tom Moser: How to build Shaker Furniture " It's a really good book for ideas... there are measured drawings of a number of Shaker pieces, and it goes into some detail on design elements." -Minnesota Steve Tom Moser: Artistry In Wood "Covers design and inspiration for shaker and Arts and Crafts furniture. He discusses his love for exposed joinery." -Bmac [Could fit in A&C section as well] Other Bill Hylton: Illustrated Cabinet Making Reference for cabinet styles and construction -Ronn W Julius Panero: Human Dimension & Interior Space "If you've ever been wondering what size or what proportions something should be this book has the answer. It covers everything fro residential to hospital and everywhere in between." -Me Furniture Gallery's "Most of it is leaning toward gallery pieces but the Krenov school's gallery might give you some inspiration." -Chet There are a lot of categories and higher end pieces that span a lot of styles. -Me Material To Review Oscar Fitzgerald: Studio Furniture of the Renwick Gallery " <place holder> " -Me Shop Drawings For Craftsman Furniture Shop Drawings for Craftsman Interiors Material Not Yet Purchased Stickley Furniture: 1912 and 1915 Furniture Collection *Udated: Update Post
  20. The miter gauge idea is pretty clever but yeah you won't be able to get all 4 sides tthat way. The nice thing about tapers is that they don't need to be 100% identical. slight variation in size and angle goes completely unnoticeable. The big thing is to make sure that the point where the taper begins is at the roughly the same height all the way around. I've been 1/4 " off and it's been ok though. Save the offcuts and use them as shims for other tasks in the shop like if you ever have to run a twisted board across your jointer or if you hare having binding issues with cutting something with your track saw ect. I have a stack of shims and use them often then they hit the scrap bin after use typically. Or dare i say if you ever need to shim a door. My last house all of the doors were shimmed with custom 1 of a kind walnut shims. Super bespoke, it's probably why i made as much as i did when i sold it.
  21. Band saw? I do all my tapers there and then cleanup with the jointer or hand plane. I thought we were talking small legs. Anything that gets over 2.5" I feel gets dicy on the table saw. If you are going that thick all the time i'd do a rip blade.
  22. If you get a good finish off your combo blade i'd go that route so there is less clean up. Otherwise i'd say rip blade.
  23. I feel like there should be more than 1 bolt thingy in the red circles. It takes 2 to resist twisting and you want them as far apart as possible. Also agree if you brace the slide area thing it'll increase the rigidity.
  24. I think i missed this? I think the 1hp motor is a bit weak. If you stepped up to a 2hp blower you'd have better luck. Dust separates from getting flug to the sides of the cyclone so if you put more air in the velocity is higher and the dust separates better. Again if it was missed you might need to install a wye near the inlet to the collector and have a blast gate half cracked to add some additional air. Reducing any inefficiencies in the system will help as well. Also as a note make sure that your SSD and the dust canister are 100% air tight. Any air the leaks into the canister is going to draw dust strait up the cyclone. This is the most important part of the DC system. I have a 3hp system and while i don't vent outside my filter stays a lot cleaner when i run with 2 blast gates open.