Chestnut

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Everything posted by Chestnut

  1. So in my style search I stumbled upon Seth Rolland and was instantly drawn by some of the work that he created. I don't think I'm going to go quite as far as he did but something along these lines. I'm not even sure if the piece will fit but it's going to be the one oddball piece in the room so i figure why not try something new. If i don't like it i can always put it somewhere else or maybe try and sell it.
  2. High Performance is good. I've also had awesome luck with Varathane brand WB poly. Minwax WB polys I've had poorer results with. Dry time is a benefit i can have 3 light coats done in an hour. I sprayed 2 coats on some cornhole boards and was playing on them 45 min after i turned the sprayer on.... For stuff you want some slight warming effect Endurovar is by far the best but again it has a warming effect / leaves a yellow cast.
  3. If you are spraying, any waterborne poly will help keep the white. So far the oak I've applied some WB poly over 6 years ago is still as white as the day i applied it. Well as white as it can be for a wood product.
  4. If it's naturally darkened I'd do some experiments to make sure that it can be close. I hate to say if but if it went naturally to a dark color why not just let the new project go naturally to the same point. Could accelerate it with some time in the sun outside prior to finishing. I'd be concerned with it looking similar now but 5 years later start going in a different direction. Or Baking soda. https://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/aging-wood-with-baking-soda/ Or Lye like @wtnhighlander has done.
  5. I have a few living room tables to make. Most of them are going to be my typical style that runs with the theme of the room but there is going to be one oddball that will be fun to make and i want to try something new. The first table on the list is the easiest. I just need to copy an end table i made a few years back. The main goal was to use up some reclaimed cherry from a bedroom door someone gave me. It was a solid cherry door that they cut some pieces off of so it was no longer usable as a door. Not bad for a reclamied wood project eh? First step was to make the MDF fence for my miter gauge that i've been meaning to make for a while now. After that was done it was as simple as cutting parts to get kinda close to the same size as the other table. I used the domino for the joinery. and also to attach the side slats on. It's the same techniquie I did for the last one. Used the drum sander to sand the slats to fit perfectly in a 6mm mortise. I used the table saw to establish the shoulder on 2 sides and cut the rest back until they fit. Next was to get everything finish prepped. #4 to the rescue! Marc mad a post on social media about rounding corners with a sander. I've never had that problem with a handplane and it's a ton faster to get perfect finish ready. I don't sand much any more after my smoother because it honestly makes the surface look worse. After finish prep it was a pretty painless assembly. Then it was on to making the top. The previous table has an ash top that came from scraps from a build i did a LONG time ago. Luckily i always planned on making 2 and kept the scraps. I ran it through the drum sander after it was glued up to even everything out. Because the grain is kinda crazy and i get a lot of tear out on this wood I took off the drum sander grit marks with a card scraper. Took me maybe 10 min to go from 80 grit to finish ready. Total time was about 10 hours. Just need to apply finish.
  6. Tried it didn't see the point..... putting marks on project parts and setting them together ensures there are no mistakes. I also use stop blocks and plan my cuts out.
  7. Ok i like that. I might just get a pair of those when i buy that 9' track and keep it in my garage. I'll mount it to the back of m garage door. Brilliant!!!
  8. I've gravitated away from making templates as i hate template routing. If i do make a template to keep curves consistent I'll make them out of 1/4" mdf but i really only use them for a pencil line. Then i just saw close to the line and clean up with hand tools. So it depends on how you work. I've never made nor used a story stick. I can see how they'd be useful but I usually just end up using project parts. Why use some other wood when the project material will work all the same and leaves less waste.
  9. The change is so slow and minuscule that i doubt you'll notice it. It's not like 19 years 355 days you'll be ok with the color but at 20 years your going to say "nope too light time to go". But no it doesn't really bother me. Most of what i make is cherry so it's only going to get better looking as it ages. Walnut gets a lot of hype and for good reason it's a beautiful wood and is wonderful to work but i think the fact that it ages lighter is one of the very few drawbacks one other being the price with the final one being that it tends to have more knots than cherry. The other thing is i tend to celebrate that wood changes color instead of dread it. I love natural processes and think that if this is how nature designed it, i'm happy to be along for the ride.
  10. Hum i don't think that you mentioned that FreeCAD was free....
  11. That's good to hear that after 2 checkups everything is well. I can't imagine how scary that must be. As far as the wood working class i feel i must say pic or it didn't happen . I hope you get a chance to go back and finish what you started. I also hope that you can share a picture with us of the end result.
  12. Combine is what you are looking for. It's a tool that is used to subrtract a solid from another solid. Fur turnings revolve is your friend and combine (subtract or cut) is how you'd remove the portions in the quadrants like you typically do.
  13. That board doesn't look like oak to me but it's hard to tell. The fastest method is smell. When cutting the wood there is a very obvious difference between them. Good clean end grain pictures are the most accurate. As far as value it all depends on if you can find the right buyer. Also how clean you can get the boards would be a big factor as well. If they are caked in dirt and full of nails not many people will want to buy.
  14. The polyurethane glues will stick to anything but i think scraping the finish off is your best bet as well.
  15. I had the 745 which is the newer version of this saw and i assume there are some minor differences but on the whole they look similar. I made mine work fore a few years while i build a fair amount of furniture and some kitchen cabinets so they are capable. They are essentially a circular saw motor attached directly to an arbor. Mine had little run out and decent enough power as long as i used think kerf blades and didn't feed to fast. Make sure the fence hasn't been damaged as it's difficult to use anything but the one that is on it. You might be able to get replacement parts but if a bracket is damaged or something major is bent it'll be a nightmare. If there isn't any apparent damage it's probably ok but make sure not to over pay on the used market. People tend to value their possessions a lot higher than if it isn't their own. It is made in Germany it can't be that bad..... those Germans know a thing or two about engineering i hear.
  16. It's full across the back row and i have another tree yet to cut down that my neighbor wants to get rid of. I'll probably have it full and still have some overflow. Luckily i don't heat with wood only gas so this is just for recreational fires.
  17. I was going to vote cherry it's a good medium color and pairs very well grain and texture wise with walnut. The are a match made like lamb and tunafish.
  18. So how many board feet total, just W.A.G (wild a** guess) it? I was worried about my self but now you make me feel a lot better. I estimate that i'm somewhere between 1,000 and 1,500 BF. I also want to get into chainsaw milling very soon. I've almost pulled the trigger on a 661 multiple times but know i need a 15" planer first. Though the wood does have to dry a long time so maybe the chainsaw is the better first buy.... bah decisions!
  19. Got it finished and in place. I used flood cwf-uv finish because i got it free and why not. Starting to get it filled up.
  20. Beautiful work i also like the touch of sapwood in the bottom. That must be cow pee walnut the color looks awesome. Hope the flavor doesn't come through .
  21. Thanks to @Chip Sawdust and @Tom King for their contribution to the thread. I added their suggested books, Chip recommended some that fell outside the scope of this thread and called to attention that i should start a thread that covers construction techniques so sometime in the future I'll tackle that as well in the same format as this one. I also have some PDFs of books, old books that might be public domain. PM for more details. REFERENCE POST
  22. Paul where did you get your ammonia? Did you get it locally or order online?
  23. Hey hey hey i only forgot glue that one time.... well and that other time.... I think i should have worded that a bit differently. I bet they are nice with a track saw but i have had decent luck with a shorter square. These kenix ones are nice because they have a thick blade. https://www.amazon.com/Kinex-4034-12-020-Machinist-Square-0-0008/dp/B079R8BVYW/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=kinex+square&qid=1565872081&s=gateway&sr=8-4 My draw to the WP stuff isn't the size but that they make it from material that doesn't rust. I have to go through and wax my squares just like my planes and cast iron. Speaking of that i really should wax everything again it's been a while.
  24. I wish i had easy access to a bunch of QS sycamore. I've always thought it was a pretty wood but haven't found a source for it and it doesn't grow locally. My favorites are below. Chestnut, but i haven't made anything from it because i only have 3 boards and well.... it's not like the tree is really around any more.... Redwood Birch is another favorite for both secondary wood and using figured stuff for primary wood. I also have some Chokecherry that is pretty interesting to work with.
  25. It'd be interesting if the cut out all the bells and whistles and just made them blank if they could sell them for a lot less. All that CNC milling and laser etching measurements has to take a long time to set up and will increase waste that they have to make up for and is it really useful? A big square like these would be nice and there aren't a lot of options but at the same time my 10"x7" square gets the job done. I don't feel that my furniture is falling apart because i used a $25 square over a $250 one.