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Everything posted by Chestnut

  1. My only minor issue with the hand tool cabinet at this point is, I'm not really sure where to hang it in my shop. The place i want to hang it, isn't really a good fit for it. The place i have space to hang it, is a long way form my bench. I think I'm going to have to reorganize my shop....
  2. I think that covers everything I'll keep those notes as I move forward. I'm going to make this in parallel with other projects so it may go a bit slower than my typical pace. Megan really wants to start wrapping up rooms of the house and that means i have to finish the furniture for those rooms. The next BIG item on the list is dining room chairs, I admit I've been dragging my feet on them a bit as it's a daunting project.
  3. Man that is a nice saw. I find it very interesting that they put the dust port where they did. I wonder if it collects better there opposed to out the back like what's on my laguna. Also that motor is mounted in an interesting spot it looks like it's above the Axel for the lower wheel. I figured lower would provide better center of balance but I bet that saw has more than enough weight to be stable even with the largest stock on it... .
  4. Brian, I'm thinking of starting my cabinet soon. What advice do you have to someone that is thinking of making one of these? I thought you mentioned that there was a dimension that you'd have increased knowing what you know now. I'm looking at some awesome QS ash on my rack that I'll never use for anything around the house. I'm thinking of cutting it up for the case and the internal dividers.
  5. Chestnut


    Jarrah and spotted gum look awesome. Vic ash would be cool as well. There are probably more that aren't as common that would definitely never make it to the states. Wish we could do some trading because i agree with Mark.
  6. That does depend on the part that is being restored. Like the lever iron is difficult to clean up so evaporust might be good there. On my previous planes I've just left the tarnish on those surfaces as it fits the age and character of the plane. I like the results i got polishing the sides with the #3 i may go back and correct the inferior way i cleaned up my #7 & #4.
  7. I bought this #3 a long time ago put it in a drawer and never did anything with it. Well honestly at the time I bought 2 #3s (i still have the other one), and i took some parts and switched them around to make one more "authentic". This casting came with the stamp "DAMAGED" on it. I found that very interesting. I did some research before i bought it and from the research it sounds like it was a factory second that was sold to a Stanley employee. The handles that came on the casting were some bright orange home made looking things. I swapped them with the rosewood handles from the 2nd #3 I bought. I like to keep the work i do to the planes to a minimum. I don't really like to do the evaporust method as I find that it leaves an odd looking surface. So I cleaned up the sides and sole with some sand paper on my out feed table. It made a big mess. Though it was easy to clean up with some sandpaper on a sander. After the sand paper i further worked the surface with green scotchbrite, finishing with some polishing compound. I did a bit of work to the mating surface of the frog. It was VERY rough. Then i bought a new Hock o1 blade and got it tuned up. It takes a very nice shaving and the size is small but works for me. I'm excited to put it to use on a project. Figured I'd line up all my vintage planes on the aircraft carrier for a picture
  8. I have quite a few empty spaces on my clamp rack. If you are looking to adopt them out or anything. IIRC you have the nice old Jorgensen ones.
  9. That's where i got the idea from honestly. Marc posting something about that stuff and i looked into it.Later i was playing around with the 3M paper and realized that because the adhesive was heat activated it made it really easy to fold precicsly and make 2 sided. I can't remember if PSA is always sticky or takes activation with pressure or heat. The nice thing about needing to heat activate the adhesive is it allows for easier folding. Super minor and isn't worth it to carry extra stock. I use what i have because I have it and if i don't fold it in half like this i don't use it.
  10. So @Bmac Sanding went easier than i expected. I have some 3M sand paper the no slip backer kind labeled sand blaster. It's awesome stuff. The backing is sticky when it gets hot. So my hand sanding is usually done with a 1/4 sheet that is folded in half which i then hit with my heat gun and and then press the adhesive together. This makes it a bit more rigid and easier to use as well as makes it 2 sided. Conviently i have an object that needs 2 opposite sides sanded. I just hold it together with one hand and drag the sand paper back and forth inside and it took me 10 min to sand all of the inside like this. I might go and get some 80 grit to see if that makes it any faster.
  11. I fully appreciate your thoughts and well as everyone's thoughts and input. I was wondering if you meant to glue it in the manner you stated above. Indeed i did think about that. The trouble with it how do you stop the glue at a specific line and not squeeze further down? I suppose i could use a space or wax paper but then I run into cleaning up glue. I feel like the best answer is to get as thin of kerf blade as possible and just try and eliminate it as much as possible. I checked the craftsman that i got the idea to see if images of his work would shed any light on this. It appears that his technique is very similar to what I'm doing. He has a small square portion at the bottom of each cut. This is also a good idea but as I'm not always entirely sure where the cut is goign to end up until i make it, I'd have to drill each hole as i approach the end of the cut and then finish the cut. It might add a bit of time to each part. Not a big deal. Splitting hasn't been a problem to this point, I've chosen strait grained material so there is a ton of grain run out in the collection areas. One of the first attempts i made i pulled on to see at what point it broke. It took a surprisingly large amount of effort so I'm pretty sure that unless material is wonky splitting isn't much of an issue.
  12. Excellent questions! I agree that removing the middle piece would add a bit more of a delicate look. I do like the way that it frames both of the "arches". I'm interested in seeing the end result as well. This is why I'm taking so long on this. I've been thinking and experimenting with different things to figure out if how I'm doing this is the best way to do it. Sanding isn't going to be as bad as you might think I"m going to cut these with a carbide blade and the cut is quite clean compared to some of the low end blades out there. To sand I'm going to use some of the double sided paper i have and just get it done. I have a trick that I'll show tonight when I give it a shot. Doing as you suggest does give some advantages on sanding but has some drawbacks. I'd have to deal with the glue squeeze out in the small space. The grain continuity on the ends wouldn't be as visually strong and i realize that no one would notice but I would notice. Doing slats and spacers I'd drum sand the slats which would loose me a lot of material and then have to sand off the drum sanding marks at some point. I feel it'd be the same amount of work, just different.
  13. Quite a bit different when i have to figure out how to do it in my shop, vs downloading a design off of a website that is making money off of intellectual property theft. I'd say you have an argument but you don't because it's been well established, with the illegal downloading of movies and music, that If someone hosts it and makes money off it through ads, they are still guilty. Open source and copyleft are great if you want to work your entire life and never get a paycheck (I'm exaggerating here). I don't have a problem with that at all and support the open source community as I'm a heavy Linux user. My issue is when you TAKE my design and post it on a platform that makes money giving it away to people. Especially when that VIOLATES my patent/copyright. It's clear that you don't care if people steal your intellectual property but a lot of people do care. Do i like the patent system, no not entirely but i live with it because it's the LAW. Wood waste would be huge and potential for part failure would be high. 3D printing is ugly, no way around that. You weren't woodworking in an efficient manner then. My Waste per board is very low. Board selection and part layout is critical. I cut the part out before i surface it and have little waste as "The fastest way to joint and flatten a board is with a saw". I use a band saw to cut parts where my kerf is 1/32" I don't recall ever seeing a router bit that small that can handle cnc machining. If i have to do all the perp work to get the board on the CNC i might as well just finish it with regular tools faster.
  14. It will be the side that sits between the 2 legs below the apron and above, what ever that piece is called.
  15. Are they disposable or can they take a hone or 2?
  16. You did post, it's been posts like yours on here and Frank Howarth that have turned me from thinking that CNC is complete hog wash to considering it an awesome tool. For items that require precision and accuracy they can't be beat. Kind of deviceive just like the Domino...
  17. Whoops images were all broken links. Fixed that.
  18. Nice work! I like the idea of the box being upside down. but right side up. My one comment is the edges look sharp, if that's what you are going for that's great. To me it seems like they all could benefit from a quite hit of 220 grit sand paper by hand just to give them a bit more of a soft look. (also not sure if you are completely done it looks like there are still some pencil lines)
  19. 100 years later and we're doing it again!
  20. So i still have that idea itching in the back of my mind for the last table. I really want to make it delicate looking and nail the process. So I ran another test and think i got every thing figured out. First the test so you can see what I didn't like but also what I liked. The center "post" was just WAY to beefy. Further on I went too thin and have since decided the perfect thickness is 3/8". This also showed me that trying to perfectly measure and mark out the kerf width of the band saw blade is an exercise in futility. I determined that it's MUCH easier to make the cuts and measure as i go along. The problem i had with this test is the main bending pieces are not the same thickness and as a result bend slightly different. It's not that noticeable in the picture but the tops toe in towards the center a bit. Starting out my final test piece is going to mimic the size the real piece will be. I calculated that I'll need a 1_1/2" wide piece, 14_1/2" long, and preferably 1/2" thick. The piece below is 1_3/8" and that leaves the center piece a bit thin to my liking. I'm showing this to illustrate how LITTLE wood this takes. Which is sort of dumbfounding to me. I marked center and offset the center 1/8". I marked up 1" from each end and and that represents the line to stop cutting. This is important because uneven stopping points will result in a poor look. I was only marking one side of the board. I used the marks to set the fence and then flip the board over to cut the opposite side. This kept things symetrical and worked a bit faster. It's also critical to work from the center out. Working from the out side towards the center means that you have kerf cuts in your board pressing the board against the fence will close the kerf cuts causing a taper and a cut that isn't parallel. I used white lines to illustrate where the 2 cuts will be. You make the first cut and then flip the board side to side so the same end is getting cut. Or at least for my design i want it this way. Playing with the orientation of the cuts can give different designs and different effects. If you try this experiment it's kind of fun to try out. Below you can see my first 2 cuts. Now we will focus on the end closes to us in the picture above. I measured over from the outside edge of the kerf the thickness i want my bent "slats" to be. For this i chose 1/8". I've found thicker than this doesn't bend very nicely and thinner is too fragile (in my very limited testing). The key for the next cut is to make sure to align the OUTSIDE of the band saw blade with your mark. If you center or use the inside of the blade it will remove material from your slat making it too thin. (I guess it doesn't matter what side of the line you choose as long as you always choose the same side of the line from here on out). The white line above is a bit thick but it shows the idea. Here I'm taking the line as the right side of the white line was my keep side (I used a pencil line to set the fence and added the white line latter for illustration). Make the first cut flip side to side so the end you are first cutting stays the same. Stop at your marked stop line. For the next cuts, which happen to be my final cuts, I measured again from the outside edge of the kerf cut on the opposite end of the board. I measured over 1/8" and extended the line to the end. I then used that line to set my band saw fence. I really should have set my fence to the low position. Next time I'll remember that, well probably not. As you can see the wood is loosing a lot of it's stability accross the face. This is exactly what we want but also illustrates how important it is to work from the inside out. After the cuts are done you have a small piece that looks like some one really messed up on. I'm working on the rail design. Right now I'm leaning to cutting a groove in the top of the bottom rail and the bottom of the top rail. I'll set the side in the groove and glue in spaces that will hold the position of the side in the design that i choose. There is a LOT of flexibility with this. Right now I'm going for something symmetrical but will experiment more in the future. With spaces installed. The small spacers are 1" and the larger spacers are 2 of the smaller spacers so 2". When it comes to actually placing the side the top spacers will need to be a hair longer than 1" as the top has 4 kerf cuts and the bottom has 2 so the top will need to make up that additional material lost. I then had the idea to cut the center piece out because i thought it might look better. Ignore the rough bottom, If i did this method I'd make it just a thin kerf cut instead of a wide one. I don't think this will be my end product. If i widen the center divider by 1/8" it will help separate the 2 sides and will look like 2 arches. Ideally if i was doing a wider table I'd have 3 arches as i prefer sets of 3 but this table is going to be far to narrow to pull that off. What do you think? Pointer, if your band saw has a brake stop the blade before pulling the piece out of the incomplete cut. The sides of the band saw blade can cut the wood a little bit leaving a rougher side and a more jagged looking slat. If you don't have a brake this process might take longer as I advise to let the blade stop. So Mel if you read this proof that a band saw brake has value . I was going to post some pointers for making something like this at the end but I'm tired and forgot what I was going to post. Also my fingers are tired.... this was a lot of typing. Also too long to proofread, I'll probably fill in my pointers tomorrow when i proofread.
  21. Highly likely. I got it in a batch of wood i bought when i was looking for good shelving. The guy had a lot of various exotics and this was defiantly one of them. I have a good guess but i want to see if someone else comes to the same conclusion that I do with out steering them. (I should make a "What wood is this" post but it's not that important)
  22. I'm going to split these into 2 posts. I finished Table #3 as referenced in post #26. This table is designed to stand over the subwoofer for the sound system. Yeah it's not going to be the best for sound but w/e this isn't a home theater like we're all watching over in the off topic section. The table legs are made from a lamination of 3 pieces of cherry. I have a bunch of thin stuff that I've been using various places because i got it cheap (<$1). So the legs don't look the greatest up close but the table is going to be stuffed in the corner with the couch pushed up against it so all any one will ever see is the front apron front of the front legs and the top. I dug out some knoty not so good looking pieces for the side and rear apron as those are never going to be seen either. If the room ever gets rearranged this table is getting changed. I'll keep the top but recycle the rest of it. Materials wise i maybe have $10 into it and largest part of that is glue and finish. I made the top from some unknown wood. Endgrain shot below. This is maybe 1/4" x 1/4" so as you can see the grain is dense. Wood has hardness similar to cherry as i can barley dent it with my fingernail. It's weight is more in line with a hard maple or white oak. The wood is most defiantly NOT cherry. It does not have the same medulary ray effect on the quarter sawn faces that cherry does. The top was too wide for the thickness planer so i ran it through the drum sander with plenty of capacity left over. Instead of spending 2 hours sanding from 80 grit to 180 grit. I took 15 min and used a card scraper to take off the 80 grit sanding marks. I used my portable festool light to track my progress. It may be hard to see in the picture but in person it made it REALLY easy to make sure that i didn't miss anything. After i scrapped everything i sanded with 180 grit to even out and marks left behind from the scraper. I don't like finishing a scraped surface it doesn't come out as nice as a smoothing plane. This is a picture of the finished piece you can see that the color of the unknown wood is similar to that of cherry but not a dead ringer. And a picture of the table that hides the ugly legs.
  23. I think a 3d printer has a lot of capabilities for shop stuff, though I'm not sure that i like leaning heavily on stolen ideas. It to a point is defeating the point of a patent. As pointed out previously some of the specialized tools do represent a bargain especially when you consider the intellectual property that the tool represents. There are things that i want to make that currently i can't think of a way to make them with standard wood working tools. 3 dimensional molds come to mind for bent lamination. I could certainly eventually get there with my current tools but there are some complex shapes that would be much faster done with a digital method. I do agree that 3D printing has a HUGE advantage of it being an additive process instead of a subtraction process. This allows for more efficient use of materials. In a space where some hardwoods are extremely expensive utilizing a CNC may cost more in material lost to waste than anything else. Also a good point is that you get to set it and come back when it's done. Your time isn't hands on for the duration of the manufacturing process. Though again it shifts time from shop work to screen work.... nothing wrong with that. I completely agree I have the KM-2 and it's awesome in use. Have i used it a ton, no, but when i need an exact width dado the thing is fast and fool proof. Also unnecessary i can often nail a 1 off dado pretty fast but batching is where it shines.
  24. I think the slab craze was long in the tooth a few years ago. Now it's just getting ridiculous. Next trend is MCM furniture. I've been seeing it a lot more places the last few years.
  25. I think the center divider will look a lot better with drawers in place. The shelves are a bit different as they won't have something like a drawer front right next to them.