Chestnut

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Chestnut last won the day on October 17

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About Chestnut

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    : Minnesota
  • Woodworking Interests
    Cabinets. Furniture, Household.

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  1. I'm not sure what the products you are referring to are. If you are going to apply a shellac, make sure that it's dewaxed. If you use a shellac that isn't dewaxed the wax will not allow the varnish to adhere and it will flake off over time. Dewaxed shellac is labeled , so if it's not stated it's not dewaxed.
  2. Huh, no one ever wants to hang out in my shop long. I think they are all afraid I'm going to put them to work or something.... My dad put a cup down on cast iron. I explained to him that it could leave a rust ring on the cast iron and he never did it again. He gets a pass on all non-safety shop rules as he had to put up with me messing up all his things for a good 12 years. Now that i have my own shop i get his frustration with me when i was a teenager.
  3. Welcome, i love the wood turnings. I'm trying to stay away from buying a lathe so thanks for not helping with that. They may need to be rotated on your computer/phone before you upload.
  4. What I would do is remove the middle bulge from both of the legs. Create an even curve that goes in from top to bottom on each side of each leg. I'd do the same on the stretcher underneath. I like the curly maple wedge idea and the painted base with wood top as well. Another option is a diluted paint. I've done this before on pine where i mixed paint 50/50 with water and it ended up looking like an old fashioned whitewash. (I chose white but i suppose any color would work) The wood grain still showed through but it still had a feel of paint. Kind of the best of both worlds. Shou Sugi Ban is all the rage right now. Could be a consideration as well, though it's not without it's major risks.
  5. +1 This is a very very important thing!
  6. LED lights are awesome. There are some I get from the box store that are like $15 each and they work awesome. I don't know if you follow Mattias Wandel but his advice about placing lights at random angles is money. It really helps prevent shadowing as the lights aren't placed parallel to benches or objects. If you want i can probably dig out the video where he explains it well. My dad had a dust collector like that too. For some reason he always complained about it talking back to him....
  7. I would use a spray bottle to raise the grain on the whole chair and then sand back smooth. After you wet the grain and sand smooth the wood shouldn't raise again. If you want to play it safe you could try wetting the surface again to see what happens. You could use alcohol with the dye, the fumes will be pretty strong. I wouldn't use lacquer thinner, it will probably work but the fumes would be deadly. Even coloring is going to be achieved by an even coat of a well dispersed dye. The dye mixes well in water and alcohol and not so well in oil solvents aka mineral spirits. If you want a perfect application I highly suggest to apply the dye via HVLP. Maple blotches in a not so attractive way sometimes so that is something that doesn't suit the best to wiping but isn't an issue spraying. I don't think you'd need something like a Fuji, a conversion gun would probably work great but I'd practice. Best part is you can practice with water and raise the grain at the same time. Also applying dye with the shellac is possible but it can be tricky as well. If you get a dry edge and overlap you could get dark lines etc. Drips while applying on the chair may be very hard to manage. That said Dave did a bang up job above.
  8. I use a micro bevel on the bevel side of the iron. I much prefer a micro bevel on the bevel side to the ruler trick as it allows me to remove that micro bevel should I choose. Sharpening is something that takes some practice to become good at. Once you figure it out it gets easier and your results get much better. Something that goes a long way in helping go over that last edge is stropping. I know this is as highly debated as is the ruler trick but plain and simple i get great results from it. A leather strop and some compound will take a sharp blade and make it razor sharp. Following someone's method is a good start but don't be afraid to find your own method that works for you after all everyone is different and what works for you may not work for me.
  9. That vanity is quite interesting I like it.
  10. SS on aluminum, I wonder if that body isn't going to wear down over time and lose it's ability to lock or lose it's square. I'd never make a tool like that out of aluminum, At first I was hoping they were red stainless or something.
  11. The back slats jig takes a bit of trial and error i found on mine. My slats were long enough that I was able to do the testing on the ends of one of the slats to get things dialed in. I then cut them to length and did the tenons.
  12. I'm not quite close on symetry yet. It looks uneven. I was goign to use a quick template like Marc does in the rocker video just to give a good starting point. I was hoping to make more progress on both of my current projects but it's still in the peak busy time of year for me. It's also peak fishing season and i haven't been out once yet.... I should move my boat further in the driveway so i can't help but hook up to it and take off.
  13. I was going to look into that as well as just throwing a strait edge across and using offsets and measurements to keep things similar. I also want to create a template that I set on top that could give me horizontal information as well, like outline and a shape for the deepest part ect. My one hesitation with the drilling is what happens if my drill bit goes a bit too far....
  14. Not a huge update here. I've mostly been playing with patterns and trying to figure out some of the tricky aspects this build is going to present. I did a second sculpting of a seat and it turned out better than the first. Talking with Bmac I determined that I was trying to create too steep of a slope on the back edge of the seat and it was causing me to dig in a bit too much. I also approached the power carving a bit differently. All in all things worked out much better but i need to do more testing so i can get each seat more uniform. One of the key things stressed by Bmac is to do pre-carving. In the image above you can see the outline for the seat. This goes to the band saw and gets cut out. The pommel area also gets shaped at the band saw cutting on an angle. The boards just right of center get traced and cut after the center. The outside boards I shaped free hand with the band saw but after talking to Bmac he mentioned power carving them before gluing the seat up. I can see how this would be a big benefit and I'm going to try that on my next seat and cover this in more detail. I got the cherry for this project last week and have it acclimated and stacked in the shop. While I've been working on the Roubo I've also been cutting out and shaping the templates for the chairs. I printed details from my cad drawing to scale at work. I had to stitch together 11x17 sheets to get the sizes i need. After i got them all stitched together I secured them to some 1/4" ply with spray adhesive. I won't be using these for template routing, well maybe. I might make some template sleds, or I might just use them to trace lines, cut to the line on the band saw and shape with hand tools. Not sure. With some of the sharper curves I'm probably goign to have to do the template routing method. These will for sure help me determine grain layout on project parts.
  15. I didn't think of the feet thing. I placed a board under my current bench that will stop my toes from going under, lets see if it bothers me. If any one things of anything else let me know. As i see it, lowering the shelf just provides less space to store wood shavings and sawdust.