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Chestnut last won the day on January 19

Chestnut had the most liked content!

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About Chestnut

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    Master Poster
  • Birthday 04/15/1988

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    : Minnesota
  • Woodworking Interests
    Cabinets. Furniture, Household.

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  1. Probably phenolic. If it lost its flatness you could brace it flat again with shims and braces. That might be harder with cast iron. Honestly I'd get the less expensive one though. I don't feel that router tables need to be fancy. A simple table and a simple fence works for me 95% of the time.
  2. You have 3 options get a tinted finish and spray over top of the Danish oil. The ideal tinted finish would be dewaxed shellac as it adheres to everything and can be tinted easily. Spraying with an hvlp sprayer conversion or turbine. Getting the color right will be a trick as you will have to balance the underlying color with the color you are spraying. The 2nd option would be to strip the finish sand and refinish. I don't know how much the shelf is worth to you. Your best option may be to take it to a pro and pay for it to be done. They will have the equipment to do it properly and all the dyes.
  3. Chestnut

    New shop storage

    Yeah That's an awesome storage idea. This reminds me how awful the storage is sound my table saw.
  4. Nothing really. The chairs that initially gave me the design idea are $350 each in cherry. It's not a massive sum but it's expensive compared to the $450 the lumber will cost me.
  5. A sub top is attached with screws to allow movement. I in no way suggested to constrain wood movement.
  6. Getting the prototype done was the harder part now it's just batching. I'm approaching this like I'm making 6 small tables. Tables are my favorite. The back rest angles away from the camera so it's just a trick of perspective. The backs legs are parallel. She is just sick of folding chairs... I think she's mentioned buying chairs once or twice but always changes her mind when she sees the cost for a solid cherry dining chair.
  7. The expansion and contraction difference between red oak and cherry is 1.5% so if the oak will expand 1/8" the cherry would expand 1.5% less than 1/8". That's around 0.00187". Very minimal.
  8. I've gotten to an exciting point on the chairs. I left off with the legs half finished and some parts rough cut. I cleaned up the other side of the legs. They fit together nicely. I placed the legs in pairs trying to keep all the legs from the same board together so grain and color would match closely. I positioned the unfavorable grain towards the inside. I wanted to start with the backs of the chair and work my way forward. I took the measurement that would space the legs apart and cut the 3 rear pieces, the headrest, the bottom back rest, and the bottom rail. I then milled the material strait and square and cut to length using a miter gauge. After using a miter gauge I find myself unable to go back to the mitersaw for critical work. With the parts cut I was able to start laying out joinery. This will all be floating tenons with the widths dependent on how much space I have available. I marked out 2 legs with the tops and bottoms of the boards and then the center of the joinery. I used this to cut the joinery on the first char (chair A). I then did a dry assembly so i could determine the length of the back rest. I have deviated slightly from my original plans and have added a bottom back rest part. This allows the joinery on the back rest to be strait and square and leaves me free from trying to deal with a nasty angle that may change from chair to chair. Then i grabbed a piece of 6/4 material and cut it in half thickness wise. I was able to plane it out to around 16mm thick. It's a bit thick but I like the stability and it allows substantial joinery. I used a template to mark the rough shape and clean up on the router table. I used the painters tape and superglue trick here as I didn't think the time to make 2 complicated sleds was worth it. I then took the back rest cut to shape and length and marked out some floating tenon joinery and tested it out. Everything worked out great. So i took the 2 legs and used them as a story stick to mark each leg for joinery locations and length. I first cut to length. All 12 legs then had their joinery mortises cut. Following that I took the back rest parts and cut the matching joinery in them. All the mortises are 8mm thick. The momeny I was waiting for was to do a dry assembly of the one back rest I had finished. I'd been waiting years to finally see my idea in the physical form instead of just an idea on paper. I have to say that it was a long wait and I think I'm going to love these chairs when they are done.My goal is to have 3 chairs sweep right like the one above and to have 3 chairs sweep left. This way 2 chairs on the sides of the table will either sweep away or towards each other. This bit was the other aspect that using a flat back rest made easier. If i wanted this to work out this way I'd have had to make 2 complicated routing jigs to accomplish my goal. I have a lot more work left. I still have a lot of back rests to cut out. Then each part needs to be cleaned up sanded rounded over and completely ready before glue up. After it's glued up planing surfaces will be a lot harder to accomplish.
  9. Nice score. I've never been able to score free material. I've gotten some deals that were dang near free though.
  10. Luckily the trees I have access to are typically fallen in the road right of way or really close. Most I'dhave to do is tug it a few feet with my pickup. I like the idea of a mule though, I could try and sell it as a pet and maybe could have that instead of the dog that Megan wants.
  11. You could probably make the subtop a doughnut shape with the center not filled in to save material. I like the idea. I hope you share the end result with us.
  12. I guess his main question was design for wood movement or aesthetics. To answer that question ultimately design for wood movement as that will cover both. Designing for aesthetics may cause the table to fail in a way that will ruin the aesthetics.
  13. Might need a bit more detail but I'm afraid your 2nd sketch would not far well. In that sketch you have grain intersecting perpendicular. This would cause long grain to try and restrict the expansion and contraction of the boards perpendicular to that long grain. I made a table like that once .... yeah it exploded. I"m not sure the effect you are trying to go for but if there is a 2 tone unfortunately the best way may be a subtop out of the different species. Make sure that both the subtop and top and oriented in the same direction and they should expand and contract similarly enough to not cause problems. Yes they may be "out of round" as seasons change but i doubt customers are going to bring in a compass and try and prove that. Unless of course these tables are going in the math department or engineering department at a local university.
  14. I think the arm is considerably longer. Though IIRC you can add extended arms to the 1000HD as well. I'd have to check accessories to make sure.
  15. I could pretty easily get that little band mill on a trailer it's only 12' long and doesn't appear to weigh too much. It is called portable after all. I agree though that the chainsaw is more portable. My trouble is a lot of the places I can get longs I can't mill logs as they are on public property where it would be in the way or private property that I'd be unlikely to get permission to do said activity. At least with a chain saw. A mill that sounded like a lawnmower with a 4 stroke engine would be easier. My thought is to just make the logs small enough to move. 6 foot logs or even 4 foot logs are easier to move than 8 foot or 10 foot. Yeah there is a bit more work but it's the difference between getting the lumber or not.