Chestnut

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Everything posted by Chestnut

  1. That's good to know. I mostly do most of my finishing in my shop which sits around 62-64. I usually have a LOT of time to get finish on at that temperature. The end result looks great. I'm interested to see what it looks like in place. The oak that you used is beautiful, I'm quite jealous of the material you've managed to obtain.
  2. I wrapped up some time consuming but minor steps on the bathroom remodel. As a break I worked on getting some french cleat storage in my garage. I made a couple bins that hand on the wall for some various items. I"m getting to the point where i have enough storage spots where i have empty space. The cleats are separated by 6" which is working out quite nice. The cleats were ripped in half from 5.5" stock. I"m toying with the idea of painting the cleats the color of the walls or hitting them with a clear finish to match the trim... trim is birch, cleats are BB ply. If any ones has some good ideas for must additions for french cleat storage let me know.
  3. There is no standard spacing. Do what ever you think will work for your space. I put these in with 18" separating the cleats as i was going to use it for large objects. I should have done 24" of separation as most of the bottom middle cleat is unusable. A single cleat around the top permitier of a shop could be useful. Kind of like picture frame hanging molding.
  4. The CN formula for blotch control is very similar if not the same as what Marc outlines in this video. If you need a replacement try this. As with all finishing make sure to do test boards or test on inconspicuous spots before you go after your critical project parts.
  5. I remember that build and it's one of the reasons i used the exact same material as a backer. Thanks for teaching me something Coop ! I can't remember, did you manage to fix your chess board?
  6. That's an awesome experience! Congrats to your daughter iirc she's been waiting a while for this day to come.
  7. I also find removing drum sander sanding lines a lot faster with a hand plane or card scraper as well. It's interesting that you find Poplar for inexpensive. I've not been able to find an inexpensive source for it. I can usually get soft maple or #1com cherry for cheaper. Probably a regional thing as soft maple and cherry are readily available here, while poplar doesn't grow well up here wild.
  8. That's cool Dave. Looks like a fun family trip.
  9. Chestnut

    Hijack!

    I shouldn't laugh at this but man that's MN for you. As a Municipal Engineer it's been a weird year. Because we had so much rain a couple years ago I'm now still getting flooding complaints but they are mixed 50/50 with dry creek complaints. Um the company brand is burpee, but I assume you are more talking about the variety brand. This year I did better boy and early girl. I normally like early girl but these plants are not as well behaved as past plants. Right or wrong I prune the plant into an individual stalk and train up. This has provided me a good yield in the past but these ones are just branching too low too quickly. The reason it works for me is because it allows for a tighter plant spacing and maintains airflow & light to fend of blight. I have a small space to work with and therefore cannot rotate as much as I'd like.
  10. Bought this 2 months ago and just hung it up. Should have done this sooner.
  11. Chestnut

    Hijack!

    @coop my crop is getting going. I have 10 plants like this.
  12. Chestnut

    Hijack!

    I only know my local dialect unfortunately. For me it's usually a combination of threatening music, 2 hours of watering shrubs, and scheduling an outdoor event.
  13. Chestnut

    Hijack!

    My rain dance worked we got 3.5" of rain yesterday.
  14. Yes i was going to make storage but ran out of time.
  15. So if this is the blade that came off the saw the numbers provide you the dimensions for a new blade. It's 254 mm in diameter, it's kerf or the cut width is 2.6mm and the arbor hole is 30mm. You might need to buy blades from a UK store. Almost all American saws use a 5/8" arbor hole.
  16. Flushing the tank and regularly replacing the anode rod would probably go as far. I don't trust electronics to last long enough to prevent this kind of thing honestly. I had half a mind to install a water heater pan that would catch the water and drop it directly into my floor drain. I had the PVC right there for my furnace drain already. I didn't have enough time to try and figure that our. Hind sight i should have taken the time. The pan would have made this a complete non issue. For a water heater burst I think it'd be hard to miss it. Not getting hot water would be prime indicator #1 that something was wrong.
  17. I had a request from a friend to build a chess board for his wife's birthday. I figured it would be a fun project so I agreed. My plan was to make the board out of veneer initially but couldn't wrap my mind around how to ensure the veneer was cut perfectly. So instead i cut 1/8" thick shop veneer and just used the table saw. I started by sawing enough veneer to make roughly 2 boards as I'd need to do a balanced panel. Once i had the veneer cut and sanded on the drum sander I ripped out 2.25" wide strips. I figured it'd be easiest to make this like a cutting board and glue the pieces together into a board then cross cut strips. I used plywood cauls to keep everything nice and flat. Then alternating the cross cut strips it was easy to build out the checkerboard. The backside was more walnut and maple, I didn't go through the effort to make the hidden underside checkered but it still looks nice. To glue the checkerboard onto the Baltic birch core, i used blue tape that I stretched out. There is just enough elasticity in painters tape to hold a project like this together. On the left side of the core i glued down a scrap strip that I jointed and used to align the checkerboard. It helped me get everything strait and square. after glued I'd just trim this piece off. To glue my shop veneer down i used a layer of pink insulation 3 pieces of plywood and a lot of cauls and clamps. I just used my regular TB II wood glue. This got me some good squeeze out around the edges so I figured it got me enough pressure. I really should buy a vacuum bag kit. After the glue set I trimmed the board to size this revealed a nice sandwich with no visible voids. After the core was done I just made a frame and box to raise the board a bit. Finish was applied and project complete. I used miters to make the frame and box that acts as the stand. The corners of the box were reinforced with splines.
  18. Got home to a hissing sound. Went into my shop to find the water heater had burst and was draining water in my shop. Luckily the leak was slow. It did how ever get the ends of roughly 200 BF of maple and cherry wet. So i have to stack and sticker the wet ends to try and get it all to dry. This has turned my shop into a a complete mess and it's just stressful to go in there now...
  19. Chestnut

    Hijack!

    Chestnut is ring prous and has a pore structure that looks like oak. It's similarities end there though. The density is 1/3-1/2 of oak and the color is very different. American Chestnut and American Elm are pretty close. Both a ring porus with interlocked grain. They are also similar in color. However Elm is 2X as hard and dense.
  20. Chestnut

    Hijack!

    That's awesome. I saw some chestnut lumber on Craig's list a while back and delayed too long on trying to buy some it soon disappeared. There are stands of trees around here still. I believe the lumber i was looking at was the result of storm damage and someone smart grabbing the downed trees. I'm excited for the day that i have full size Chestnut trees in my back yard. Of the 4 seedlings I planted 1 died, but 2 are around 60" tall now, the other alive is kinda runty and only 24" tall still.
  21. It appears the EU saws have a flange that fits on a ~14mm shaft that holds a balde with a much larger arbor. See picture below.
  22. It looks like the saw requires a blade with a 30mm Arbor for the flange to mount properly. Make sure you check the arbor size before purchase. I know based on where you live you are likely having to order from another country. Standards for these things are different based on the region you live in. It appears available arbor sizes are 5/8" (US standard), 20mm, 1", and 30 mm. You may have ended up with a 1" arbor which is smaller than a 30mm. I'm guessing the arbor is 30mm and it might be best to check the owners manual for your specific saw or measure the arbor size for the blade that came off of it.
  23. This looks awesome. I'm excited to see how the upholstry comes out.
  24. +1 to the compass and bandsaw. You'll never be able to see any small inconsistencies. Faster than the router method bout the same as the hole saw. I've done all 3 ways. If you want them all exactly the same double stick tape them all together cut and sand them all at once.
  25. From your recipe you were using all WB poly. A coat of shellac or even oil borne poly might reduce the blue some? Do you still have your sample to give it a try? Hey I've been working diligently for many years applying a very expensive stain of coffee and tea to my teeth and your telling me you can't match it in minutes? The outrage!