Chestnut

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Everything posted by Chestnut

  1. I had the 745 which is the newer version of this saw and i assume there are some minor differences but on the whole they look similar. I made mine work fore a few years while i build a fair amount of furniture and some kitchen cabinets so they are capable. They are essentially a circular saw motor attached directly to an arbor. Mine had little run out and decent enough power as long as i used think kerf blades and didn't feed to fast. Make sure the fence hasn't been damaged as it's difficult to use anything but the one that is on it. You might be able to get replacement parts but if a bracket is damaged or something major is bent it'll be a nightmare. If there isn't any apparent damage it's probably ok but make sure not to over pay on the used market. People tend to value their possessions a lot higher than if it isn't their own. It is made in Germany it can't be that bad..... those Germans know a thing or two about engineering i hear.
  2. It's full across the back row and i have another tree yet to cut down that my neighbor wants to get rid of. I'll probably have it full and still have some overflow. Luckily i don't heat with wood only gas so this is just for recreational fires.
  3. I was going to vote cherry it's a good medium color and pairs very well grain and texture wise with walnut. The are a match made like lamb and tunafish.
  4. So how many board feet total, just W.A.G (wild a** guess) it? I was worried about my self but now you make me feel a lot better. I estimate that i'm somewhere between 1,000 and 1,500 BF. I also want to get into chainsaw milling very soon. I've almost pulled the trigger on a 661 multiple times but know i need a 15" planer first. Though the wood does have to dry a long time so maybe the chainsaw is the better first buy.... bah decisions!
  5. Got it finished and in place. I used flood cwf-uv finish because i got it free and why not. Starting to get it filled up.
  6. Beautiful work i also like the touch of sapwood in the bottom. That must be cow pee walnut the color looks awesome. Hope the flavor doesn't come through .
  7. Thanks to @Chip Sawdust and @Tom King for their contribution to the thread. I added their suggested books, Chip recommended some that fell outside the scope of this thread and called to attention that i should start a thread that covers construction techniques so sometime in the future I'll tackle that as well in the same format as this one. I also have some PDFs of books, old books that might be public domain. PM for more details. REFERENCE POST
  8. Paul where did you get your ammonia? Did you get it locally or order online?
  9. Hey hey hey i only forgot glue that one time.... well and that other time.... I think i should have worded that a bit differently. I bet they are nice with a track saw but i have had decent luck with a shorter square. These kenix ones are nice because they have a thick blade. https://www.amazon.com/Kinex-4034-12-020-Machinist-Square-0-0008/dp/B079R8BVYW/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=kinex+square&qid=1565872081&s=gateway&sr=8-4 My draw to the WP stuff isn't the size but that they make it from material that doesn't rust. I have to go through and wax my squares just like my planes and cast iron. Speaking of that i really should wax everything again it's been a while.
  10. I wish i had easy access to a bunch of QS sycamore. I've always thought it was a pretty wood but haven't found a source for it and it doesn't grow locally. My favorites are below. Chestnut, but i haven't made anything from it because i only have 3 boards and well.... it's not like the tree is really around any more.... Redwood Birch is another favorite for both secondary wood and using figured stuff for primary wood. I also have some Chokecherry that is pretty interesting to work with.
  11. It'd be interesting if the cut out all the bells and whistles and just made them blank if they could sell them for a lot less. All that CNC milling and laser etching measurements has to take a long time to set up and will increase waste that they have to make up for and is it really useful? A big square like these would be nice and there aren't a lot of options but at the same time my 10"x7" square gets the job done. I don't feel that my furniture is falling apart because i used a $25 square over a $250 one.
  12. I think the hand tool cabinet will come first. I need to get a new planer, and the roubo is a milling heavy project.
  13. If you do solid wood, movement becomes something you should worry about with the shelves. The best way would e a sliding dovetail or a breadboard style connection to the side panel. The bookcases i made a year ago were solid wood and have a very open feel to them. They have held up very well over a full year of humidity changes. 1 thing i consider is that good quality plywood doesn't necessarily save money over hardwood but it's easier to use for some situations.
  14. Thanks for the detail on the chisel holder. I swear I'm going to make a hand tool cabinet one of these days.
  15. That's a good idea for lifting the bench up. Part of me worries that the dominoes in the softwood will eventually fail but maybe not.
  16. I'd try one first but it does come in 3 sizes. It does clog like some of the cheaper bits but a light tap usually clears it unlike the cheap ones. I usually only use #8 screws so i will only buy one.
  17. I can't remember where i posted them. I should probably make a dedicated post.
  18. Been working on this lately. I'm trying to get it done so i can finally consolidate my firewood storage to one spot. Glued the sides together. This guy is nearly 8' long so it was a tricky job. My parallel clamp extenders have been put to use a LOT since i've made them. The center post wasn't supported very well so i ran a brace to the top back rail. I also did a grid system for the bottom with a couple support blocks. I wanted to keep the bottom support quite open so as much air flow can surround the wood as possible. I figure keeping the moisture out will help prevent the storage rack from rotting out. Used my counter sink drill bit i got from rockler to do some free hand pocket holes. I like this bit a lot and do recomend it. It's not the best but it does the trick for me. https://www.rockler.com/8-pro-tapered-countersink-bit I got the doors mounted and found some nice marine hardware that i used for hinges and latches. I'm goign to leave the dog ear on the pickets that overhang the front edge. I set it up and kind of like the look. Unless someone gives me a good reason why this is foolish. I'll post some links to the hardware later. I'm quite impressed with some of the marine hardware that is available on Amazon. Hinges are tight and seem to be well made. You can get them in 316 stainless so it should hold up outdoors for a long time.
  19. I just put a board under the mobile base and shove the thing sideways to get it against the wall. Yeah it's going to wear the wheels out eventually but I've so far done it 3 times. Not sure how often you have to move yours around.
  20. I know of a township that is trying to sell their fire truck think they want like $12k for it.
  21. I'd have the edge of the table 3-4 " overhanging the bottom of the leg. This is similar to the kick plate on cabinets. I wouldn't worry 1 bit about it tipping. the table i made last winter was 36" wide and my base was 24" wide so that left 6" over over hang and it takes me sitting on the edge to ever get it to start to tip. End over hang is preference. With your leg design, sit at a table and figure out where you can put the leg so it's not on the knee of the end person sitting on the long side. There is nothing i hate more than trying to pull up a chair to a table and the leg is perfectly positioned on my knee. I'd prefer to straddle it if it has to be in the way. So probably around 8" maybe 10"
  22. It does the job great but once you tumble down the rabbet hole of specialty planes i think a dedicated rabbet plane with a fence might work a hare better.
  23. The cases came out wonderful. Is a great way to honor those individuals and their families.
  24. I made a shower bench out of Ipe and it's held up well. Finish wise i uses watco butcher block finish which is 2 years old and is holding well. Showers don't generally get the UV light that outdoor furniture does so what ever finish will last longer. I've had good luck with outdoor defence from the real milk paint company and outdoor oil from general finishes.
  25. Yeah That's my go to brand now just because it's not terribly expensive. Not sure if it's available in Australia though. Interesting never heard the cold storage part. I struggle remembering to just put the cap on.