Chestnut

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Everything posted by Chestnut

  1. Wish i could do that. I beat my ankles too much and standing without shoes causes me a lot of pain.
  2. I had some low pile carpet in my previous shop as well and it's not bad at all. I could sweep it and hitting it with a shop vac made it look nice. The stick down tile stuff would be nice for spills ect. Though rubber flooring is probably the way to go.
  3. Chestnut

    Scratch marks

    Beautiful work Ronn. I like your use of veneer. It allows for some awesome grain that you just can't get in lumber form.
  4. Wow that is incredibly beautiful. Each part is impressive but they way you get them to come together so perfectly makes the completed piece amazing. I could stare at this for a while.
  5. I took a couple hour break from the dining table Sunday to make a shelf unit to go next to my miter saw. I just had 2 shelves here before, they were small and tilting away from the wall so objects were likely to roll off. It was instigated by that and also i got sick of the plywood cutoffs from the bed platform project. After that I milled up 3 pieces of birch to make the stretcher. The stretcher is going to be 46" long with 2 4" long tenons so the legs will be spaced ~38" This will put the leg near the outside knee of someone sitting at the table. With the trestle design their knee shouldn't be close to the leg at all though. The through mortises were already cut before the trestle legs were glued up so after the beam glue was dry and 3 handles were turned on my lathe i cut the giant tenons. Only tricky part is getting them sized perfectly to the mortise but still slide on easily. My trick for this is simple. The only critical part that needs to be perfect to eliminate gaps is the portion of the tenon that is right at the face of the leg. I know the legs are 2.125" thick (yeah they are beefy), so i put a mark on the tenon at this point. Now i undersized the tenon everywhere except for 1/4" in either direction from my mark. It's sort of like back cutting a shoulder. These tenons are going to be wedged so glue surface isn't an issue at all which is why this trick is so nice. If you put a strait edge on the tenon each of the 4 surfaces will bulge out slightly 2" down the tenon. The above picture with zero gaps is quite nice. Next is to cut the shape on the stretcher and then create the mortises in the tenons for the wedges. After that I'll keep working on the benches. The remaining lumber i have for the top needs to dry some more. It's sitting around 11% but I'd like to see that at 10% before I start. This birch is a dream to work with.
  6. I'd get both sprayers than. A mid range HVLP and a low to mid range airless. In my opinion It'll probably be less expensive than getting a really high end of one or the other and fit your needs better in the end.
  7. I'd get a 4 stage of possibly 5 stage setup and do what Paul said above. I'm always afraid of over spray ect getting on everything in the house. I think the only way I'd spray is if the whole house was completely empty of everything and there was no flooring. Even then i painted a whole house with a roller and it doesn't take that long. It sucks and I hate painting but it's easy and mindless. I have the MM4 and it's a great unit but I haven't tried paint through it. Interestingly enough i just snagged 3 dewalt 20v batteries from a person who works in returns for a major airless sprayer company. I guess they get a TON of random stuff in returns notably cordless drill batteries that they have to "dispose" of. I guess it's far cheaper to let your employees have the stuff than it is to pay to recycle 20 lithium battery packs every year.
  8. Use sharp cutters to avoid chipout and you should be fine.
  9. That's not nearly enough. That's only like 2 years supply...
  10. I'm going to post my incredibly mediocre ice cream paddle i turned in this thread just to bring it somewhat back to reality. This is pushing my skill level.
  11. I'm gonna stick to furniture.....
  12. I'm amazed at how fast you can churn these out. The end result is beautiful and does not look like you spent less than 100 hours on it.
  13. Now it's time to use it. I found out last night, after i got home late due to a 12 hour work day, that turning a couple quick things on a lathe is fun and relaxing. Your setup is beautiful and makes mine look like a joke but it works.
  14. Just hack 1cm off the end. You didn't need a fence that long anyway. That sucks. I've been super careful with my miter gauges but i bet it's only time until I do this to one of mine as well. If it bothers you enough incra does sell replacement parts. https://www.incrementaltools.com/PARTS_INCRA_Miter_1000HD_p/pc-miter1000hd.htm
  15. For the trestle sides I had to make a drawing. The dimensions for the angles were too complicated to remember.Though i forgot to dimension my drawing so i had to get the dimensions by scaling off the computer screen. It was always going to be birch. If i mentioned pine somewhere I must have been sleep typing. I get a pretty good allergic reaction to some of the pine species, I think fir, so i try to avoid using them.
  16. Thanks. I'm glad that my sister just gave me dimensions and let me go. She approved the over all design but beings that she knows what her Christmas gift will be the surprise will be the end result.
  17. Been working on this one slowly and steadily over the last couple weeks. I cut a bunch of material to rough length and width to make 3 ply parts for the trestles. I'm not measuring how much wood I'm using I'm just kinda guessing. The route that i'm planning on going will be a bit more wasteful but I think the result is going to look somewhat nicer. Got all of the parts matched and made sure the defects were towards the inside. Using 3 plys allows a lot of the bad material to be used for the center ply as long as you make sure to account for the fact that some cutting and shaping will be done. I put a lot of bad looking knots towards the middle which is nice. I used a good 75% of my clamps here. I utilized some of the offcuts from making the table trestle legs to glue up the legs for the benches. I figured I'd get 1.5" x 3" blanks to do some sore of MCM taper for the bench legs to make an attempt to match the style for the trestle. I have an idea but I don't have it on paper so you'll have to follow along to see the end of that one. I ganged all the legs together and glued them up in 1 batch. Made things nice. I brought this wood in my shop November 24th. Which happened to be the same day that I found the rotten wood on my shop window. The wood came in my shop 7 days ago at 20% MC according to my pinless meter. Today it measured 12-13%. EMC in my shop for this wood is 10-11% so it dropped the moisture fast which is surprising for air dried lumber. This air dried paper birch is a dream to work. With handtools it works similar to KD walnut except is nicer in some ways. I"m really enjoying this wood a lot. I"m glad i have another 200 BF in my shed . To make the trestle legs i figured it was easier to make 2 blocks and then glue them together up the center. This allows me to make a really easy but perfect through mortise for the stretcher. If you look close you can see the design drawn out to be cut on the band saw. After I cut the first side out I cleaned up all the sides with a combination of my #4, a spoke shave, a card scraper, and a wide chisel. The chisel allowed me to keep the hard inside corner instead of letting it get rounded. I then used the completed side to trace the outline on the other 3 parts. These are very thick so template routing would be tricky and I HATE template routing. Hand tools have MUCH less pucker factor. The top and bottom parts of the trestle were shapped the same way but took a lot less effort as the bends were a lot less harsh. Using strait square blocks allowed the joinery to take place on square faces. This way I didn't have to fuss with odd angles or what not. Where the joinery goes everything is strait and square. Easy peasy. Joinery is going to be floating mortise and tenon. I"m using 1.5" wide tenon stock with ~1" deep mortises. I will be double stacking these on each "leg" So there will be 8 tenons per side. I used my favorite mortise machine and plunged twice side by side to get a 1.75" wide mortise. I made it a bit over sized to make sure that i had some wiggle room while I'm gluing up. I could use the store purchased stock but i honestly don't think the glue bond is as good. I'm leery of all the stuff they stamp in the surface i honestly think that it reduces the effective glue area. Personal opinion backed up by zero evidence. Beings that the stock is scraps that was in the burn pile the floating tenon stock is free so that's probably where my bias comes in. Next up is the stretcher and see how the bench legs shape up.
  18. Those drawer fronts are awesome. I really dig that look. This is quite the stand now. I don't know why but i always chuckle reading about wood turners "turning". In my mind I imagine them in their shop spinning around like a figure skater.
  19. AWE I"M SO EXCITED!!!!
  20. End grain soaks up finish like a sponge. I don't know that it matters what finish you use 4-5 coats is what it's going to take to fill in all those thirsty pores. Thinner finishes like shellac may take more. Lacquer could be an attractive finish though it takes some work. You can polish it after you've gotten the build you want to a mirror sheen if you so choose. Do an internet search for rubbing out finish and you'll get some good techniques. Here is one example of many.
  21. I"m assuming the sides are intended to be open so the drawers end up being the star of the show? I really really like it. It's different and out there. The shelf space behind the drawers is a good idea as really deep drawers are excessive. Do you have a spot planed out for the computer tower? I"m not sure if you are a laptop person or desktop person. It's not really a problem if you don't want to account for it because there are computers out there that are small, and i mean really small like 11" x 11" x 2". Have you thought about cable management at all and having openings to get power cords ect from one level to another? Personally i don't like the idea of seeing the drawer runners on the front face. It'd be far more complicated but I'd attempt a stopped dado for the drawers and have the front of the drawer and front face of the desk be smooth and uninterrupted. I also think I'd want a hair more than 22" for the opening. I think 24" would be the smallest I'd go. Unless you think you are comfortable with that dimension and you have space constraints.
  22. Send an email or message through their contact form. They've been good to me and replaced 4-5 resaw kings that broke exactly the way you describe. You'll need a picture of the break.
  23. So this is top bearing https://www.amazon.com/Freud-Bearing-Flush-Shank-50-118/dp/B002IPHGAW/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=freud+42-204&qid=1575133439&sr=8-3 And this is bottom bearing. https://www.amazon.com/Freud-Downshear-Helix-Flush-42-204/dp/B000BV9IPG/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=freud+42-204&qid=1575133439&sr=8-1 And this is the one i'd get https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0032YX634/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I have all 3 of those and the whiteside is a great bit and has 1_1/2" cutting length which is what you need. With the white side as long as the surface you have to cut is 1_1/2" or under (which you will be good as plywood i sundersized) you have the flexability to use either top or bottom which is good flexability to have. I always get confused which is top and bottom so yeah.
  24. I'd use a cleat inside the rails similar to how one would attach a seat to a chair. This way your not putting a bunch of large holes in your aprons.
  25. For work bench holding nothing beats hold fasts. Faster and easier to use imo. Also much lower profile.