Chestnut

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Everything posted by Chestnut

  1. When i was shopping the guys that sold the man made quartz tops said heat will discolor them. Maybe that depends on brand? The price was very close between granite and quartz and his advice was "If you use your kitchen go granite, if you want a show kitchen and eat out choose quartz, if your going to sell the house right away go quartz because granite has too many myths and misconceptions surrounding it" For the TV thing, i don't think they care. They probably have a crew that sands and refinishes it after every show.
  2. I'd treat it the same way I treat a wooden cutting board. A hard wax that I apply regularly. I would never do epoxy, as it's not very durable especially in a kitchen setting. The only counter top materials that i know of that can handle direct high heat is granite and stainless. If it isn't those 2 materials, hot plates or something to protect the counter top from heat should be used. The continual exposure to heat can cause glue failure, and will cause finish failure.
  3. I'll take 1 at $40. They are good routers. I don't need 2 as this would now be my 3rd palm router.... and 6th overall. I took your advise and got some cheap ones and it's nice having a couple bits mounted and ready. Doing it while it's 90 and humid doesn't help but i just have been taking things slow. I have a 6' x 10 foot utility trailer I've loaded that up about 4 feet tall 4 times now in brush removed from my property. It feels like i haven't even made a dent. Yes ... and no. It really depends. Part of my half acre lot is beach sand part is clay and the other part is silty sand. Sand is great, and i quite lake clay as well. Silt can take a leap that stuff is AWEFUL. I could get really in the weeds geology wise but our soils are mixed dramatically because glaciers.
  4. How much are you listing them for? I might know someone interested....... . I've been missing shop time. I have a lot of landscaping work that I want to get done so I've been spending time on that. I've been moving sprinkler heads in preparation for some stone edging. I also have about 0.1 acres of "woods" that I've been clearing the buck thorn out of and don't some selective thinning on the trees. I forgot to take beginning pictures but if you look at the picture below. My property looked like my neighbors, so dense underbrush. The underbrush is almost all buck thorn a very nasty invasive species. Luckily it is very easily uprooted so most of the small plans i pull by hand. The larger plants I use a tool call a Root Talon. Looking the other direction I still have a good long ways to go.
  5. I have the space and the 2nd saw is cheaper than the DF700 ... by a long shot.
  6. This is awesome she did a great job. I love the table design as a well as the wood selection. My favorite part is the legs. The sweep out at the bottom has a very classy look and highlights the whole piece nicely. Both you and your granddaughter are lucky to have each other.
  7. I never set the dado stack width. I normally set up like 5/8" and use the fence for tenon cuts or bury the blade in the fence for rabbets. For exact width dados the kerf maker is far faster and easier than trying to set the stack up by trial and error. I honestly don't know what width i set up because i just grab the outer blades and all the internal blades and spacers. It's M&T and the rabbets for drawers that this problem comes up the most on. I feel like every project i make has a M&T and a drawer. I don't use my dado stack because i find I'm constantly switching between a standard blade and the stack when i have it installed. Having to adjust the blade height etc in the middle of a project creates problems as well. I do all of my final cross cuts on my table saw with a miter gauge and sometimes i don't really know the length i need at the time. So then i use the SCMS and deal with imperfect cuts. Most if it is poor planning but this is a hobby and I don't want to make it a chore. I"m on the fence between a 2nd band saw or 2nd table saw, it's going to be 1 or the other.
  8. That almost looks like the branch broke and then kept growing. The sapwood that is mixed in with the heart wood makes it look like it healed over the splintered break. Just a guess.
  9. That is REALLY tempting I've been waiting to add a 2nd table saw to my shop to have a dedicated Dado saw. That's a great prices for that and the table is the same size as my current saw.
  10. Chestnut

    Photography

    I was working in the yard yesterday and got to watch 2 male Cardinals fighting over a female. They were making quite the ruckus. At first I thought a hawk was in a tree near me as that's the only other time I've heard the birds freak out so much.
  11. The centering vise isn't that expensive for the rockler kit it adds ~$60 to the cost. The drill guide is the big cost and the tool that i think is more innovative. For larger items that wouldn't work well on a drill press due to size the guide makes it east to do at a work bench. The other application that stuck me as being awesome is the angle adjustment on it. For drilling holes for seat slats say on a maloof rocker or Windsor chair this jig might make things a lot easier. Unnecessary yes as home made jigs and other methods work but then there is the domino.
  12. I know using the lathe with a chuck makes a lot of these operations possible but finding the center of something always seems tricky. I'm not sure if anyone has seen this before but Andy Klien mentioned it in one of his videos and the guide with the centering vise is really appealing and interesting. https://www.rockler.com/rockler-portable-drill-guide-with-vise Any one have any thoughts on this product?
  13. Welcome, jump in and start a project journal thread it's probably the best way to get good advice.
  14. Chestnut

    Blanks

    I split some pieces roughly in half trying to get rid of the pith. Most of these ended up having a limb or something. I took one piece and threw it in the lathe just to see what would happen. I made a little cup. It'll be one of those warped and cracked pieces because i just turned out this shape and want to see what will happen. Now my shop is a complete mess....
  15. Just AC or AC and furnace? I got quotes from a few places and they could do the AC for that range but not both AC and furnace. I'd replace both. Something on the furnace will fail eventually and the labor to replace just 1 part will be more costly than replacing them both at the same time. I guess i don't know how old or what brand your furnace is. Mine was still working fine at 30 years old but was NOT efficient.
  16. I don't think that sliders are worth it. I have a bosch glide and there is a lot more play in the mechanism then they give it credit for. All of my critical cross cuts are done on the table saw with a $150 miter gauge and the accuracy and capacity is FAR FAR greater than any miter saw could achieve let alone a $150 miter saw. if all you need is 90 degree cuts a homemade sled can be extremely accurate and is incredibly cheap. I made one from free material i got from old cabinets or other various places. If you must get a miter saw, i like having one that uses the same sized blades as my table saw. It allows me to use blades between the two of them. I'll have a junk blade that i put on each of them if i need to cut questionable material that may or may not contain dirt, metal, or other material that may damage a saw blade. Another cross cutting mechanism that has more value is a track saw with a good blade in it. Using an accurate square with the track i can get good accurate cuts for as long as i have track. With large heavy items taking the tool to the work is a lot safer and also can be more accurate.
  17. I hear that noise in youtube videos quite often and always wondered what it was from. I have nothing to add. I assumed it was the guides because my saw doesn't make that noise though i use ceramic guides.
  18. Beautiful work! I really like how you didn't go overboard with the plugs and accents. I personally feel some creators tend to make G&G garish by adding too many plugs or ebony accents.
  19. That looks like an awesome rig for not much money. Spraying makes a world of difference on water born surface finish you can get way smoother much faster it seems like. I also love spraying for objects that have a lot of nooks and crannies that are difficult to get with a brush.
  20. That's really cool. I wonder if there would be a way to do this without a CNC?
  21. Yikes that sounds miserable, though I drank a bunch of water and was in the shade. After a while i got used to it, just like after a while you adapt and get used to the cold. Currently only a 25" bar which leaves me ~19" capacity. Most trees I run across are small and if i mind something bigger I intend to turn it into a square and just run boards. I have my eye on a 42" bar but going above 25"-28" requires an auxiliary oiler / skip chain, and more hassle so running smaller keeps thing simple and easy. Start to finish that 8' log too me an hour including setup, stacking, and tear down.
  22. I'm either crazy or stupid. It's 90 degrees and 50%humidity (70 degree dew point) and I'm running my chain saw mill.
  23. I agree dead flat isn't necessary. Another option to separate the woodworking and other activities is to use rigid insulation, the pink stuff. I use 3/4" and it's stiff enough to do most woodworking tasks and you can cut into it.
  24. Looks like a perfect fit. That tool box leaves me with some tool envy, and a lot of tool box envy. I need a better place to store my tools than just laying around my shop.
  25. I swear the rule of thumb I've read was the length of the beds plus a little bit. I can joint an 8 foot board on my PJ882 pretty easily which i believe is ~83", but a lot of that will come down to technique as well. My understanding is the bench top jointers are not recommended because of their lack of rigidity not their overall short bed length. In order to joint longer boards more weight is put on the beds causing them to deflect and the overall process is then inaccurate. I believe @wtnhighlander made good use of a bench top jointer on some long material utilizing the machine in a very inventive way.