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Everything posted by Chestnut

  1. Could do something like this and modify it to your needs. Nothing wrong with solid wood outside. It's likely to hold up better than ply.
  2. I should have specified that a 2" hose will flow roughly 3x more air than a 1.5" hose. 2.5" hoses will flow considerably more than a 2" hose. The area is the square of the radius so even small changes have large impacts. I'm not saying it won't work, it just won't work well. A 3 HP unit with minimal losses in the main duct work is an entirely different situation as well. 2-3"WC of suction is a large difference in the DC world.
  3. The length of hose prior to the 2" line makes a large difference, if you had a short section of 4" and then a short section of 2" it could work.
  4. Yes that's exactly what I'm saying. I had the HF DC and ran a 2.5" tube to a miter saw and it didn't' do anything except plug. I wouldn't worry about nails either the HF DC isn't strong enough to lift them anyway. Chunks of wood are a better possibility. You could get wood chunks stuck ahead of the impeller often enough to cause frustration. So if you proceed make sure the tubing is easily disassembled to remove chunks of wood, shavings, dentures etc. I only see what you can show us so it's impossible to make a judgement but the way it's designed the HF DC is likely going to struggle to p
  5. Doesn't coffee, toast, potato chips basically anything with a maillard reaction carry a prop 65 warning? That warning is on everything these days. I agree with the testing comment. I think there is little to worry about as a child's contact with the waistcoat is likely limited. Paint and drywall are likely just as harmful.
  6. The 1.5" hose isn't going to be able to suck up a fly let along do significant dust collection. You are far better off trying to find a shop vac. The way you have the cyclone set up will cause a large amount of turbulence leading into the cyclone which will reduce it's seperation efficency and likely cause a greater suction loss. If you are venting outside it's unlikely the separation efficiency matters. It still seems better to have the cyclone and bin prior to the motor and vent the exhaust outside. If you lowered the main line and ran it directly into the cyclone and then blower and ve
  7. For the most part in it doesn't much matter which side of the blower the restriction is on it will have a similar impact. There is a large exception. Turbulence in the line leading into the cyclone or separator will have a large impact on the separation efficiency. All manufactures recommend the inlet to the cyclone be a 6 foot strait piece of pipe. This is to reduce the turbulence entering the cyclone. The turbulence will keep the fine dust in suspension and send them through the cyclone as well as cause a greater pressure drop across the cyclone. Air directly leaving a blower is going to be
  8. I guess my workflow on a computer tends to shift away from mouse use so anytime i can use the keyboard in place of pointing I do it. I just find the mouse to be slow and tedious.
  9. Has that happened to you? I've filled quite a few cracks and the epoxy has been strong enough to hold it closed... but this is all inside. This has me questioning things.
  10. If the bark falls off easy it comes off if it takes work i leave it on. Once the boards dry it tends to come off easier. I don't really want it on but i also don't want to go through the effort to remove it.
  11. It stems from most people not wanting to answer their door...
  12. For 1 -5 drawer I'll use the saw and chisel. For > 5 drawers the router is coming out. I have the Porter Cable 4200 jig and it seems a lot easier than the Leigh jig but may not be as flexible. I set up my PC jig last night in about an hour. Then most of the fiddling is making sure all the parts are consistent in thickness and width. Have you tried the band saw method? Gets the look and feel of hand cut but doesn't require endless hours of saw use.
  13. Snipping tool is interesting but i see it as the same as using paint for speed etc, but paint has been universal on windows machines since 1995. Alt + Print Screen takes a screen shot of the selected window, this is universal across most operating systems I've used also. I like using GIMP because keyboard shortcuts. Windows programs and devoid of useful keyboard shortcuts it's frustrating. Which is odd because windows operating system has a TON of awesome keyboard shortcuts.
  14. If a lot of moisture was added to the top in the form of a citrius stripper there is a chance that some of it may rebound. That said using machinist tools to gauge woodworking accuracy will only show you how imprecise wood working is. If it's not impacting the use like pointed out above i'd not fret much.
  15. Sure use them for table tops they'd look great. As benches they may see wear as well doesn't matter as table or bench dents dings and wear are going to happen. Cracks defects voids. Epoxy, epoxy, epoxy ... maybe bowties if you feel like getting fance for the cracks. Look into oil finishes like Penofin, or even the hardwax finishes like Osmo outdoor finishes. I've used an outdoor tung oil and really liked it from the real milk paint company. None of these form films and refinishing is as simple as re applying the finish. The only sanding necessary is what ever you think is important.
  16. Never heard of it... 99% of the time I skip applications and just use the good ole print screen button. If it didn't exist in widnows 98 I probably don't know about it I use linux more often than not.
  17. I disagree i do not think you have the right bit or the right bit angles. I don't know anything about that jig but the tails angle does not match the pin angle. They look snug at the top of the picture and have huge gaps at the bottom. The bit you linked is 14 degrees, most DT angles I see are 7 degrees. I suggest checking the manual for the right bits the right angles etc.
  18. Looks like you have some Elm there? I can't see the bark that close but I'd guess American Elm. I've milled quite a bit of material from yard trees both mine and neighbors. I've done it with a chain saw mill, free hand like you did, and also on my band saw in my shop. It works well and you can get some smaller usable pieces pretty easy. I made these from an apple tree. The 1 year per inch is more of a myth than it is a rule. Drying time varies immensely depending on location, temperature and humidity levels. I can dry 1" boards in my basement in 60-90 days. at 45% humidity and
  19. So what i learned was it needed to get the sawdust smoldering. The temp would hang kinda like how the stall temperature occurs during smoking. Then after the wood started to smolder it'd jump from 160 to 205-210. When i needed more sawdust I just added it to the smoldering pan opposed to dumping out the embers and putting fresh in, which restarted the whole temperature hang. I'm not sure if this is a joke or not. Honestly if cardboard wored why couldn't wood. If a person makes something they might as well make it right with top quality materials and hinges. Dang it now I'm considering
  20. I'm struggling with the hot plate. The thermostat on the plate is stopping it from running enough to keep the temp where it needs to be. It's mostly sitting at 170-180 but the smoke output is awesome. I'm going to look into the thermocouple location and see if i can't use a tube to direct cold air at it to keep the hot plate running more steadily. I really like the idea and method it works great. I looked at some electric smoker and the wood chip box are tiny it seems like you'd be adding wood to those things constantly.
  21. I use GIMP or paint. There is a way to do it on a phone too just never done it.
  22. Trying out something. I've read and seen alton brown use a hot plate and cardboard box for a smoker so i figured I'd try it out. The nice part about his method is he uses sawdust to get smoke. I have a LOT of sawdust. Inside the card board box is a hot plate with a sawdust filled cast iron pan. Dowels go through the cardboard box to suspend the food. I'm smoking a chuck roast to make some shreaded beef sandwiches. Sawdust is a mix of walnut and cherry for a good heavy smoke flavor. From my research walnut is similar to misquite but a bit heavier and stronger so it's suges
  23. That sounds miserable. It'll look really nice when it's done though. I walk around my house and hate our doors and trim every day but the thought of changing it out sounds way worse.
  24. Did ya use a forstner bit from each side to minimize the tearout too?