Chestnut

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Everything posted by Chestnut

  1. Ceramic bathrrom tile not the institutional kind. I'm not using the drill in hammer mode because I'm worried about cracking the tile. Should I not worry about that? I'm using a carbide drill bit that is labeled for tile. I only have 4 more holes left so i'll probably finish with what i've got cause it did work, just slowly.
  2. Chestnut

    Vennering

    Depends on the size of your project. I've used regular old wood glue for small veneering projects many times. With larger projects that are going into a vacuum bag or are complicated to get together and more time is needed there are specific veneering glues. Usually sold under cold press veneer glue names. There are many brands. I've also used epoxy in some situations when I needed more time but didn't want to buy specific glue for a 1 off project.
  3. Trying bringing your outfeed all the way up. On my HH if i set a board on the cuttign eget it moves the board maybe 1/4" it's barley touching. From my research a belly means the outfeed is too low.
  4. Paper towel holders in bathrooms that are above shoulder height. You wash your hands and then reach up to grab a paper towel to dry you hands and end up with wet forearms.
  5. Chestnut

    Photography

    Well i can still move a camera with an injured wrist, so i've been spending more time outside. We had some awesome frosty days. While out exploring my cousin and I came accross some deer that were eating on a fallen oak tree. This is un-cropped and was taken with a 100mm lens on full frame. I was at best 20 feet from this deer and it didn't care at all that I was there. Below was cropped slightly. Normally i have to use a 400mm to get pictures like this....
  6. Having been in his shop in person his video's make it look at least 50% larger than it really is.
  7. I think walnut sapwood looks a lot better when it isn't steamed. It also has to be done in a harmonious way. I'm interested in how this one will turn out. More often than not when i get figured wood like this that might misbehave I'm inclined to make shop veneer and mount it on a panel, or drawer front.
  8. TB III isn't helping. I'm not sure your jointing method. With a hand plane I'd joint the boards so each edge is getting jointed at the same time. There is a slight trick to it, but doing it this way ensures that you get a flat joint every time. The only other technique is to make sure that you are indeed jointing a strait line.
  9. I got a new wrist brace that actually does something. I think i figured out what injury I have, the pain was on the outside of my wrist so that limits the options to a TFCC tear or a tendon issue on the Ulnar side. Either way the brace greatly reduces the pain. So back to work I went. Megan and I were sick of having to reinstall rusty nasty shower curtain rods hat kept falling because the tension mechanisms are never strong enough. So we have been installing hard mounted stainless steel rods. They are nice. I could probably do pull ups from the shorter ones. Drilling on tile SUCKS t
  10. To be fair a lot of what he set up was 10 years old and even thought he may have learned it was probably too much work with minimal reward.
  11. All of that is confusing. I'd make an oversized leg strait and perpendicular to the arm and floor and cut tapers into each face to create the splay angle. This will keep your tenon and mortise perpendicular. Because the taper angle isn't very severe you could also then make the mortise for the side rail on the leg perpendicular so the side rail to front leg joinery would be a LOT more simple to create. Creating the leg this way is very similar to how the guild build covers the side rail creation. It's also how most dinig chair legs are created. Make a big block and cut the leg out of the larg
  12. There are some good takes on the collector on Matt Cremona's videos that cover the unit. There may be good improvements elsewhere I just haven't seen them. I believe they will cover your question quite well.
  13. I've used these for an L shaped trestle style desk i made for Megan. https://www.rockler.com/align-n-lock Though i used them in conjunction with some dowels or floating tenons that were not glued. The other options mentioned above work really well also.
  14. Note entirely sure which directions you are planning the splay but just because the leg is splayed doesn't mean the tenon has the follow suit. The plans show for creating a taper on the outsides of the leg from a large solid block. To achieve a splay a parallel taper would accomplish the same thing and allow for joinery to remain square. The joinery for the apron sections on the front and sides would still be angled and somewhat complicated. That could be handled multiple ways
  15. Chestnut

    Hijack!

    39 is nice and warm. I usually played hockey in a T-shirt down to 0F after that i usually needed a sweater.
  16. This is awesome and is definitely something different. I'm excited to see the rest of the process.
  17. There are limited options for the molded 1 piece tops, i was following what you were saying. I honestly wish that Megan was as decisive as that. Instead she just says "do what ever you think is right, i just want it to be easy to clean."
  18. I was looking at Corian and the cost is going to push me away from them. To get custom sizes (Which i have to get because I'm constrained by walls) the price goes from reasonable(~$200) to absurd (~$800). I can get Granite in a custom size (~$300) for not much more than the off the shelf corian. Still looking and still considering ideas.
  19. Thanks for all the input on the seams to sinks. I wasn't leaning granite but now I'm considering it. I would LOVE to have a sink like that. Or even to make an entire vanity top out of Ipe top sink and all. It'll NEVER happen. I guess never say never. Maybe if i run plumbing to my shed and put a sink out there....
  20. Thanks for the input. Do you have any idea on depth of the sinks you have? I just did a custom design thing through a local box store and they have 5" depth 6.5" depth and 8.5" depth sink options. 8.5" seems like a bit much but would it really hurt anything other than reducing storage in the vanity? The cleaning service skews your opinion slightly . They are offered at Home Depot that is 0.5 miles from my house I'll have to take a look. They look interesting none the less. I'm not entirely sure if I like the angular sink opposed to the traditional bowl shape. Been there done t
  21. Wife wants easy to clean and doesn't accumulate gunk. If an under mount is possible with out a large crevice that is goign to look dirty than I'm on board. Below is an example of what I DO NOT want. This gap is almost 1/2" wide at the top and about 1/4" deep. I don't want to clean that ever. This is spiraling in a direction I'm not sure I want. Looking for recommendations on what has worked for people in the past and there experiences with the above options and input on other options I'm not aware of. Also opinion on mounting the counter my self or just having a pro do the entire th
  22. Moulded in place or factory attached sink vs added after. The seam between the under mount sink and counter top. Not sure what you mean about needing to decide to commit money... The money is allocated and comitted, i want a product that i won't hate in 10 years.
  23. So this year I'll be remodeling 3 bathroom vanities by replacing the cabinet and vanity tops. I will also be remodeling the cabinets in our laundry room slightly changing things around that will involve a utility sink and counter top. So I'm reaching out to the community on what my options are and what your opinion is on the best option? Are there options I'm missing? Right now the options I see are: Vanity top from a home center (home depot, lowes, etc) but I'm not really fond of how thin and kinda cheap they look. Their benefit is the sink is molded into the top so no seams
  24. My opinion is find the wood that is the shade of tan or brown that you want the furniture to end up. This will alow you to apply clear finishes which will look better and give you less headaches. If you are adamant about adding color to the wood stick with woods like red oak, ash, or white oak that accept color without blotching. If you are goign to paint, go with a cheaper wood that has small pores, like soft maple or poplar possibly pine.
  25. Yeah I've never lived in a house with large dogs that shed a lot so i don't know what that is like. I had a cat growing up but it didn't seem to shed a lot.