Chestnut

Supporters
  • Posts

    9,102
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    190

Everything posted by Chestnut

  1. So you have a front slab a rear slab and resin in between? If that's the case I'm not sure that the domino in the resin would add anything other than being a potential eyesore if you can see it through the resin. A large reason for the domino in the wood on miters is end grain is not an ideal glue surface and can suffer strength consequences as a result. Resin doesn't have the same properties and epoxy along the 2 joining surfaces of the resin would be similar to a long grain glue joint in wood. I would make sure that the resin glue surface had plenty of rough texture for the adhesive to get a good bite between the 2 surfaces and forgo any sort of reinforcement. As far as cutting joinery in resin. There is no reason the domino won't cut a perfectly decent mortise in it. Resin acts similar to a dense tropical hardwood with minimal grain and the domino works just fine on that material. I could get deep in the weeds on mechanics of materials on why joinery in resin wouldn't be as effective as in wood but I'm sure no one wants to read about that. Just know that woodworking joinery in resin/plastic/cured epoxy will not work as well as the same joinery in wood. I would agree with this. I would make shop stock much wider than the festool stuff and make multiple plunges close together to make a wide slot. As i mention above I'd keep the woodworking joinery in the wood and would just use epoxy on the resin edges.
  2. Oh yeah didn't think of that.... yeah don't mix aluminum and concrete. Come tot hink of it what benefit does concrete have for a router table top? MDF or melamine would be cheaper, easier to make and use, flatter and more accurate, and probably more durable in the long run. As I've said MANY times to home owners, there are 2 types of concrete pavement. Concrete pavement that has cracked and concrete pavement that is going to crack.
  3. Rough up the outside of the T track with some sand paper to provide some tooth and it's likely the concrete will grab it and hold it in place. Concrete isn't the greatest adhesive but it's high compressive strength and ability to mold to shapes usually allows it to hold stuff in place quite well. If they come out you can always epoxy them in after the fact. Epoxy usually adheres to concrete and aluminum well. Worst case you could always drill holes through and use flat head machine screws to hold the track in place.
  4. https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B08TBN8YPJ?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1 This is the product that I used. I might buy a package of the 5mm size to just have some around. They could be useful for pins in some other applications. As a note these are true metric sizes and the metric drill bits I have fit perfectly. Metric drills bit are always useful to have around.
  5. Festool syslite Kal II. Because i already have the 18V batteries. Alternatively it's one of the few tool lights that also has an internal battery so you don't have to use it with your tool battery. The odd shape and various angles on the light are quire useful. it also sports a tripod mount and hook, and a gigantic price tag (it was considerably lower when i bought mine). Doing it again I might be enticed by this https://www.acmetools.com/m12-rover-service-repair-flood-light-w--usb-charging-2367-20/045242592241.html But the internal battery of the Kal has some good value that has to be considered.
  6. My 16-32 has been great. The machine shouldn't shake that much something is out of balance on the drum or there is an issue with the sand paper. I'd see if you can inspect inside the drum to see if there is build up or check to see if the balancing weights have detached. Stepping though your video frame by frame it looks like the imbalance is on the paper clasp side. There should be a weight on the drum to off set the weight of the paper clip.
  7. Fully cure and cure to handle are 2 different things. I've used tung oil that cured to not leave residue on cloth in 8 hours. Yes it took 2 weeks to get full cure but that's the same with most curing finishes including polyurethane.
  8. Knocked out another quick project. Hazel needed a bow holder. I used some carbon fiber rods that I bought to repair my fishing rod. It turns out I only needed half of one of the 10 I bought. They are nice and rigid and take sanding well so I used them as pins for a holder. Used a keyhole bit to mount this too the wall. And then filled it up.
  9. If the finish is gone there isn't any cleaning it. Wood is a porus surface and I don't really know of any cleaner that will "clean" it. If it were me I'd clean the floor with some denatured alcohol to get the detritus off the surface and use some flooring paste wax. The wax will help give the porus wood something to hold that isn't dirt and maybe make it look a bit nicer. In the future when the floor is sanded the paste wax won't really impact that.
  10. I also forgot to post about the mail box support I made. I made this right before we went to the hospital for delivery. One of my neighbors gave me the bright ideal to combine our 4 individual posts in to a group post to clean up our mail box area. So i bought some treated timbers and went to work. The main brace extending out is attached to the post with a through tenon. I extended the through tenon backwards about 12". The cross braces the mail boxes sit on are a half lap joint secured with screws. The entire post is quite sturdy. I left about 36" of post to go below grade. It was a quick fun project.
  11. It was a day or two agao but they are all blending together. Dusted off the climbing gear for deer hunting and did some practice with my cousin. We climbed a few of the trees in my backyard just to make sure that we still knew how to and wouldn't make mistakes come fall. While at it I tied off the pole saw and trimmed some branches. This picture makes it look like my cousin is hovering in mid air. Even with my feet 25 feet of the ground my exceptional 5 foot 6 inch stature and 12 foot pole saw, there were still quite a few unreachable branches. The crotch in the ash (left) and Elm (more center) are roughly 20 feet up. These trees would make some wonderful lumber some day in the very distant future.
  12. I got some real shop time for the first time in 6 weeks. The first thing on the bench was to make some extensions for the handle for the wagon stroller. The axle for the wagon runs across the back and while pushing you hit your feet on the axle often. Megan asked for a fix so I figured this was the easiest way. I made the extensions on the lathe from some Elm. I cut down a tree years ago and cut blanks to make rolling pins. I made 1 rolling pin that gets decent use and a 2nd was never requested. The elm should be strong enough to pop wheelies still with the stroller. It should make it easier giving the pusher (me) some more leverage.
  13. How do you differentiate between the buck and doe? Is the doe just a little bit smaller? I've always enjoyed making the little reindeer. I probably have 10-15 scattered around my house. I'm sure with the little one around I'll be making more in the future.
  14. Funny the doctor literally just told us that exact same thing.
  15. I have a cheap drill press chuck from amazon and a 4 jaw i feel they are an and buy not an or. There are some drilling operations that are just easier to do on the lathe but are difficult with out the 4 jaw. She triggered tanitus worse then my trim routers. She's turning a corner 6 weeks is this Friday and from all reports that's when things improve. Night times so far are her best periods so I'm getting a good 7 hours of sleep each night though it's between 8pm and 7am....
  16. This is another consideration. I've done laquor on some small itmes and they suffered water damage. The finish started to peel and flake and really didn't handle the water at all. Poly is more flexible and i'm sure that it wouldn't have handeled the abuse better. Naa that'd just leave me constantly having to refresh the wax after cleaning. I typically try and use an alcohol based cleaner so the water evaporates quickly. I've done 3-4 coats on all of the tables I've used as well as the arms of my Morris chairs. I don't have coasters in my house so it's a regular basis that sweaty glasses are set directly on the wood. There are no water rings anywhere. The poly coats are thin and may seem like they aren't protecting but keep in mind a thin uniform coating will protect the same as a thick one. The benefit of a thin coating is it's more flexible and can handle abuse better than a thick coating.
  17. Wipe on exclusively. I do 3 coats for low wear items and 5 coats for table tops. Brushing and wiping is an intersting through. I just HATE brushing poly...
  18. The one benefit to lacquer is it can handle being smoothed after the fact. If you build a lot of layers like 6-8 you could then sand the finish back to a smooth state and polish to your desired sheen. I've found it's easier to just use a wiping poly. Poly can "finished" in a similar manner but it must be done a lot less aggressively. To get a good moths finish with wiping poly I use a card scraper that's dull and lightly scrape the nibs off. The final coat is done very thinly. I squeeze most of the finish out of the rag before wiping on the final coat.
  19. Great work i really like how it's a cross between wall art and useful storage.
  20. I'm less concerned with the door to the shop and more concerned with every door leading to the shop. A double 36" door to my shop would still leave me stuck as the stairway leading to my shop is far more restrictive than even a 30" door. That said there are few hobby level tools that won't fit through a 30" door. Disassembly and reassembly is included in that statement. I had to disassemble both my table saw. parallelogram jointer, and 15" planer to get them in my shop.
  21. I'm a bit late to the game but there is a benefit to having the dedicated DF700 10 mm and 8mm bits. The extra plunge depth you can can be quite useful in many situations. I like to use the 8mm for frame and panel doors. This allows me to get some extra tenon in areas where there is a groove to help make the doors stronger than they righttly need to be. the 6mm is the other size i use regularly. IMO the DF500 kit is kinda nice but at the end of the day you'll use half of it and the remainder will sit unused. It's more expensive per bit to buy individually but you'll save more money not buying the sizes you don't need. I should note i use the 4mm quite a bit. It's really helpful for little projects like picture frames. I also use it for alignment on panel glueups no matter the size of material The domino is there for alignment not strength so i keep the allignment aid small. This really depends ... softer less strong woods probably not. Really dense hardwoods like maple hickory or oaks your probably fine. I use 8mm in 4/4 material ALL the time, in fact its my go to size. I never mill my material to 3/4" though i stop when the face is clean but that usually ends up around 21-22mm thick. 3/4" is 19mm for reference. 8mm mortise in 19mm stock leaves 5.5mm either side that's around 3/16" which is a good amount. Properly glued in this should be fine. I've ran closer to the surface with dominoes frequently with no issues. Ultimate strength may not be as good but these joints are already stronger than 95% of what the furniture we build will ever see.
  22. Chestnut

    Odie's Oil?

    Sounds like you should just stick with Osmo then? If what you described is the yard stick by which you measure, I don't know of much any that will measure up. I think rubio could be the finish your looking for but the whole 2 part thing.... Reading the above, skip my recommendations....
  23. I'd be willing to bet money it's been gas.
  24. Chestnut

    Odie's Oil?

    The other rockler is carrying Osmo products not sure if you have one of those near by. It's a polymerized linseed oil and wax for the original product. The tried and true oil varnish is a bit different it's polymerized linseed oil and natural varnish to provide a bit more durability than the wax version. I've really liked it so far. I've used it on some kitchen items and it holds up to daily use but only occasional washing. I used it to finish a salt basin. Don't gloss over pure tung oil. I've used that as well and once my T&T is gone I'm switching to pure tung oil. It dries relatively quickly and is quite durable. I've used an outdoor version of tung oil on some outdoor rocking chairs that see daily use through the summer months and the finish is holding up excellent. Marc's recent video also paints a good picture for tung oil.
  25. It's more of a 3 hour from beginning to beginning of feedings but that works out to 2 hours of sleep so it takes us 10 hours to get 8 hours of sleep. The last few nights i wake up to a very loud BM and then fussing almost perfectly timed. I let it go for a while to see if she'll go back to sleep but never does. I try and grab her before it gets to crying as she gets her self worked up and it goes from fussing to screaming for 2 hours. It's just easier to not let it get to screaming. Also the frequency is more for mom's comfort than babies stomach. I'll never know what a clogged milk duct feels like. My 3M work tunes are getting some good use. When she is inconsolable i just pop on an audiobook and do my best to comfort her. I now also understand why our family members over 60 all have hearing aids.