Chestnut

Supporters
  • Content Count

    7385
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    114

Everything posted by Chestnut

  1. Ross is your topsoil that tan orange color? Around here we can't get any thing to grow in soil that color, topsoil is black.
  2. Reading oak grain can be difficult as the prominent cathedral grain that the wood is known for isn't always the real grain direction. If it starts to tear switch directions. For smoothing operations it's common for me to attack a board in multiple directions to prevent tear out. I handle the transitions spots with a card scraper. I don't encourage micro bevels but keep in mind you don't need to sharpen and polish the entire bevel especially with bevel down planes. Another thing I do is strop. you can get some stropping compound and use leather or even a board. This will give a razor sharp
  3. In thinking about it If i thinned out everything a bit proportionally i could probably get away with 2" thick legs. The other thought I had after I posed was to make the legs with a strip of cherry running down the middle and 2 skins of walnut on either side. I could make it thin to appear like an inlay or something.
  4. I don't see how the weight has much of an influence on the performance of joinery? I've made a large dresser as well and used all floating mortise and tenon joinery and it is more than strong enough. A lot of this depends on construction method and design. If you were planning on making a modern style where there aren't dust frames and the drawers are attached with ball bearing drawer slides. Making the box with a plywood back that is attached with screws like Richard's would be very strong. Dowels where the top and bottom meets the side would offer a lot of strength. My Roubo style
  5. So the vertical legs are supposed to be 3" thick? I am goign to embark on making my own conoid derived table. Can you think of a way to laminate material to get 3" thick that wouldn't look awful? I want to make mine out of walnut and 3" thick walnut isn't readily available. For the big center beam i figured i can do a book match. The other material i can just scale down to get them from stock i currently have. The vertical legs though are visible both sides so I'm not sure a book match would work. Even if it would work I'd need a walnut board 11" wide, which is also hard to find.
  6. Whole lot there that is way over my head. Have you reached out to Fuji to see if they have any opinions on what is happening?
  7. Chestnut

    HOAs

    I worked for a Condo HOA designing replacement water main. Something that is over 50 years old would make me nervous. The old cast iron water mains are reaching end of life and if the water system is privately owned by the HOA it can be a huge cost. The project was $1 million and covered 256 units. So not terrible per unit. $100,000 assessment per unit is absurd, that'd never fly here. We have state laws that work to prevent assessments that cost more than the potential value increase, and most of the time projects need to appraise properties to make this work.
  8. Did you mean Minwax wipe on poly? Isn't Polycrilic is Minwax's water born polyurethane? I don't use their products much only wipe on poly. I figured the higher heat would cause the cure to go faster and that 2 days would be enough. Guess a longer cure was in order before shipping. Unless your implying that the heat melted the finish?
  9. 2 days cure that's surprising... What WB poly did you use? How was the finish applied? Sanding with ~500-600 grit and another application of poly would fix it but WB can be tricky. If it was a wiping poly maybe.
  10. Yes i agree i liked clean but the lack of functionality on mobile was limiting. I wonder how hard it would be to build a theme?
  11. TO do under bevels i use my track saw. I just test and make sure the track is spaced over the same distance every time. Setting a square to the amount the track needs to overhang is an easy way to make everything consistent. I'd do the round over first with a bearing guided bit. Hand sand to feather everything out.
  12. Chestnut

    Deck Stain

    For deck stain my first thought, which I'm probably to late now, was one of those trendy hardwax oil blend things that wouldn't form a film and would be easy to fix if needed. Also Marc used a product when he did that pergola video that i thought was interesting but I don't remember the details. Yeah but i get all that and don't have an HOA... I wonder if they have to structure it as an HOA because there aren't local governments established to set ordinances/levy taxes to accomplish the same thing? I think the horror stories of overreaching HOA's are the exception not the norm. I
  13. I have a few ash trees in my area I've been eyeing up. EAB is moving through and is likely to kill the trees. It is a wonderful wood and has some interesting properties. Takes stain like oak fyi.
  14. This 4 part series is good information. Or you could make some step stools or something simple. Experiment some and you never know what you may figure out.
  15. Switch to night theme and the menu shows up. Otherwise i haven't found a way on the other 2 themes.
  16. That definitely fits your style and does it well. Beautiful work Mick.
  17. I still think these articles ignore the best option which is a cheap hvlp or conversion spray gun. The money saved on not buying a large variety of pre-stain tools could easily cover the cost of the equipment. Or the best solution. Use wood the color you want your project to be. Or a wood that doesn't blotch.
  18. Often the last 10% on batteries takes the longest? At least this is what I've been heard.
  19. Sucks to hear about the loss of a blade and brake but yeah it's a good thing your probably much cheaper steel rule is safe .
  20. If your running android try snapspeed. I edit my pictures to reduce size and then post makes things faster. Beats the texting thing... just a thought.
  21. I think most tend to over build furniture. I have some antique dining chairs that have 3/4" x 1 _ 1/8" legs, they are rift sawn mostly and have endured 100+ years and 3 generations of abuse. Poor grain selection, mainly having bad grain run out, makes wood seem a lot weaker than it really is. This is also based off experience trying to break down scraps to burn in my fire pit. I actually would be. That'd be not only difficult but probably expensive. I wouldn't have any issue with legs that size with proper grain selection. I'd even have no issues tipping it back on 2 legs. Joinery is m
  22. I bring pictures into a cad program and then scale the image off of a known dimension and use that to extrapolate the rest of the dimensions. It never comes out clean so i usually just round to the neareast what ever makes sense. On those chairs they look more narrow. than something you'd typically see and I think that's part of the design. The other striking aspect is the delicate looking legs. my criticism of his piece is he used flat sawn wood for the legs and has a lot of grain run out. It'd look far far better with rift sawn legs and minimal grain runout. Not to mention will be stron
  23. I found a nice spot for lunch today. A nice easy day driving around looking at roads.