Chestnut

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Everything posted by Chestnut

  1. I have alternate suggestions. This is from an uninformed perspective. In viewing images of queen Anne pieces the tops appear to be solid wood with the profile cut into the edge. The top appears to be veneered giving the look of a mitered frame but not actually enclosing the top in a frame. I see your molding appears to go above the top surface. A rabbet may work and apply the frame like you would a breadboard end with pegged tenons? This could leave the sides able to expand and contract within the frame. Or make the top a frame and panel and cut a tongue that would interface with a groove on the frame. The tongue would be the upper portion of the top such that a gap is not produced. The other observation is to do a captured panel. providing a small gap surrounding the panel for expansion and contraction. Part of me thinks they didn't do anything to consider wood movement based on the comments on this piece. https://www.invaluable.com/auction-lot/queen-anne-cherrywood-tea-table-new-england-lat-8754abb90f
  2. So recipie, this is close to what we used but we made a much larger batch. Our batch used 10 lbs of russet potatoes. Russet potatoes (6 medium), 1/4 cup butter, 1/4 cup milk, 1 tsp salt, 1 tsp sugar, 2 2/3 to 3 cups flour, extra flour for rolling, butter, sugar (white or brown) Potatoes are boiled until fork tender (the fork pieces the potato but they are still somewhat firm). Potatoes are riced, butter milk sugar salt are mixed and the mixture is cooled overnight. Following day mix flour by hand, chill again for an hour. Make 2" diameter balls, and flatten to hockey puck size. The smoother the edges of the puck the nicer the lefse will roll out. The uneven edges are from cracks. Lefse is rolled cold with a grooved or textured rolling pin on a pastry cloth. Both the cloth and the pin should have flour worked into the surface to prevent sticking. Refresh flour on the pin and pastry cloth after each piece rolled out. If using a pastry cloth you should be able to almost read the lettering through the lefse. So very thin. I didn't get pictures of this because i was the griddle operator and was busy. To move the lefse you slide the point of the turner under the center so the point extends out the other side and lift strait up. The griddle is 500F and it's best to not start making if the griddle is cooler than 450F. To place the lefse you set one of the hanging edges down and roll the turner laying the lefse flat. This is not like making pancakes. It only takes 30-90 seconds per side so don't get distracted. Once you see uniform bubbles your getting close to being done. I lift an edge with the turner to check for color. Keep a cotton towel on hand to wipe excess flour off the griddle after each piece. The cloth can also be used to move the lefse around on the griddle if you didn't hit the center as well as you hoped. We stack the cooked lefse on cloth to cool to room temperature before folding and packaging. Shelf life is a few days in the refridgerator, so if you want it to keep longer freeze it. Should be good 6 months-1year frozen.
  3. Yeah i thought about doing it that way. I was really unsure how long the electrical and everything would take. I didn't want to end the evening with 4 6" holes into the attic dumping cold air into the house. I opted for messy and quick, hindsight i could have done a cleaner job. I don't mind cleaning so much, it'll be good to get everything wiped down anyway.
  4. I went with retrofit cans. I climbed into the attic yesterday after work with a shovel and moved all the insulation away from the area. Once I had a good picture of the attic in the area doing retrofit cans just seemed obvious. So I ran to the store bought what I needed. I bought one of the recessed light hole saws and was going to use Tom's method. The hole saw was too small. Apparently the retrofit kits are not the same size as the new construction ones and there is no way the can would mount in the hole. So i grabbed my drywall rotozip thing, and used the templates that came with the cans. This meant that I ended up making a massive mess. This was only after cutting 1 hole so it got worse from there. Started at 6pm, had the 4 cans installed by 7pm. I got super lucky in that the ceiling hadn't been painted and whom ever hung the florescent fixture didn't damage the ceiling. You can't even tell there was a fixture there. Cans were wired and lights were in by 8pm. Cleaning was suspended at 9pm, because it was taking too long and Megan wanted to finish our show. Cleaning is easily going to take longer than all the other tasks put together.... On the bright side I can finally mount the cabinet door to the right in the picture above. This all got started because the door hit the old light fixture. 4 cans is about 0.5 cans too many. It's bright in the room and it's awesome.
  5. Their belt sander? I have a circ saw made by them and a jig saw. Both cheap but work well. I agree their routers were their ticket. Makes no sense to have axed them.... It's clear because it seems like all router bushings are based of the porter cable system....
  6. With 10 foot ceiling it might be kind of hard to turn them on and off. Though the cost seems comparable. I'll add it to my consideration list.... . I'm always amazed at how far flashlight technology has advanced in the last 20 years thanks to LEDs. I've had a fenix E05 on my key chain for the last 10 years. They made a new version that upgrades from 27 lumens to 120 lumens all off 1 AAA battery. I remember using 3D cell mag lights as a teenager that couldn't hold a candle to these tiny lights i carry in my pocket every day.
  7. +1 I glue the center inch of panels often on cabinet doors.
  8. Shoot. . https://www.finewoodworking.com/forum/no-more-porter-cable-routers
  9. There are the retrofit cans. This is the direction I'm leaning as it's not new construction. The lights don't have a lot of mass so they should be able to be supported by the sheet rock for the ceiling. The 3rd option the can-less are commonly called waffer lights. They don't have a can at all.
  10. I need to upgrade the light fixture in our laundry room because the cabinet doors can't open because the light is in the way. Someone should have thought about that before they built the cabinets.... I'm considering doing recessed lights but have a couple questions. There are kits that are "can-less" and than there are the traditional cans. I plan on living in this house for the next 30+ years so I want to make a decision that is going to be nice for the next guy, because the next guy is going to be me, he's probably going to have less time and energy that current me as well. I see the pros to the can-less recessed lights as you don't have to install the can. The Cons I see are that the insulation will sit on top of the electrical box and LED light. If a replacement of the transformer is ever needed it's going to require a trip to the attic. I could make a housing to go over the light and transformer but replacing the unit would still require some electrical work. Traditional cans may be a bit more to install but the cans in our kitchen have LED lights in them. They are very simple to replace when they fail. It's simple to drop the light puck, unscrew the standard light socket and screw in the new one. Replacement is as easy as replacing a traditional bulb. I feel like I'm missing something on the can-less units, because they are so popular. Is there a reason to go with them over traditional cans? I really don't want to deal with attic insulation and having to complete work in the attic in the future. Does any one have any advice here? Thanks
  11. 700 can do larger bits (up to 14mm vs 10mm) and deeper mortises (60mm deep vs 28mm). Overall it's just much larger.
  12. Probably depends on soil type but I've gone no till with my garden and haven't noticed any impact on production or plant size. Ground was pretty firm this year and the tomato plants still managed to shoot out roots 7-8 feet in all directions. My soil is quite sandy though.
  13. Dowels are okay. I just think that the domino offers a bit easier alignment. If you need an excuse, just get one? I've never regretted buying either the 500 or 700. I get far more enjoyment out of turning a design into a finished piece, than the process of goign from design to finished piece. People that like the process more than the design and outcome tend to like the domino a lot less.
  14. The blast gate gap is misleading. I have those and they don't leak much at all, as soon as the collector is turned on it pulls the gate hard against the opening closing any gap. It's apparent because they slide easily when the collector is off but when on, there is a lot of resistance the the gate sliding.
  15. Every house is different, older houses aren't built the same as newer houses and there is less "sealing" that was done between rooms. Modern homes have fire blocking in a lot of places that help prevent air movement. I have had a basement wood shop in our house and have been making and finishing furniture in it non-stop for the last 10 years. I have not once noticed finishing fumes escape to the rest of the house, nor have i noticed sanding dust outside the shop. If you can work in a completely enclosed space that is the best. If there isn't a wall with a door between the office and the rest of the basement I'd consider framing a wall and using plywood or sheet rock to separate the space. A door would help get in and out. Other considerations are HVAC, if they are located in the space as well, it's not an immediate cause for concern. My furnace is 5 feet away from where I sand and my HVAC person was not concerned when i discussed the situation. They always comment on how clean the furnace is all things considered. That said check your filter more frequently, and the filter may need to be replaced 25% sooner. Continue using a shop vac with your sander, avoid removing sanding dust with compressed air and instead use the shop vac with the brush attachment on the hose. Air cleaners can help, the furnace filter on the box fan is a good 2nd choice. This won't help with paint fumes and also air movement can work against your when painting. If you can use water based paints, it's unlikely that there will be much difference between painting furniture and painting walls, people paint their walls all the time. Oil based paints and finishes will be another story. A painting respirator with VOC cartridges will go a long way in protecting your lungs when applying the finishing in a semi enclosed space.
  16. The safty point to stay between the blade and the work piece is interesting, I've never heard that one. I"m assuming it's to prevent someone from hitting their arm on the blade. I always position my left hip on the on off button which puts my body mostly out of the way of the blade and anything that might get kicked back. I also use push sticks not push paddles. I won't advise either way because everyone is different, use what feels safe and comfortable to you.
  17. It's an option on almost every model. I strongly considered it but then asked myself "When are you ever going to use this?" Thanks we'll have to meet up at some point to swap morris chair bending forms, (if your still making those? ) and show off new vehicles. I'm excited to see what that new Ford is going to look like. I just feel bad for the service techs that get nothing for actually doing their job well. Read this code do XYZ send it out the door if it fixes the problem or not. To get the dealers to even try it sounds like you have to threaten them with lemon laws and lawyer action.
  18. Don't you drive a Ram? I feel like yours should have that feature, if you have a backup camera.
  19. I don't know that's entirely the case. I know dealers get tiered discounts based off volumes they sell so the MN dealer was probably going to make less than the 13K price difference as Ford charges them more per vehicle. To me that just seems odd on a vehicle. When i was looking at Jeeps there was a dealer in TN that was vary popular and they claim to get a volume discount from Jeep hence they can undercut all their competition. I may have been able to order through them and save $1k but the headache wasn't worth it. That said 13K is a different story. My broken comment is a bit more complicated and more related to service. The service side of things is a lot more difficult. Manufactures don't really pay dealers enough to troubleshoot problems. My inner fender liner was defective from the factory. Did the dealer do anything when i mentioned it to them. Nope. It's honestly easier (and cheaper time based) for me to buy a $64 part and replace it myself than try and get the dealer to correct a warranty issue and spend hours waiting for XYZ at the dealership. Ignoring my comment about an inconsequential plastic part I like the Jeep so far. There are features that it has that I don't know why every manufacture includes. I can at any point turn on the backup camera to check behind the vehicle. This is helpful when hauling items on a trailer. Lights in the bed are very helpful. A full back seat with storage boxes. An outlet with other USB charging ports, LED lights. There is a long list of features that I really like. Another highlight is the coil spring, 4 link rear suspension is AWESOME. I don't know why all pickups don't have this. The ride is WAY better than any leaf spring vehicle I've ridden in and it's smoother than my dad's Yukon XL. If i had to give the vehicle cons #1 would be gas mileage, I got really used to 23-24 mpg. Dropping to 18.5 between home and work kinda sucks. Highway mileage is closer to 22 down from 24-25 so that's not much of a change. #2 Reverse is a bit tall, and i wish it had a lower ratio. Idle in revers is like 5-6MPH which is dumb. I've used 4wd Lo to back up trailers. honestly #2 could just be gearing in general. The final drive is 3.73 and probably should be more like 4.55. 70 mph in 6th the engine is at 1900 rpm, I'd like that closer to 2,200-2,400 so i drive in 5th almost everywhere and never use 6th.
  20. It doesn't make sense to me that this happens.... why can one dealer be that much cheaper than another. The whole car sales infrastructure in the US is broken. I think tesla has it right.
  21. Use a scrap piece and do a test on the bore hole location and hinges before mounting everything up. It's a good practice to make sure that there isn't anything that will bite you. I would dial the test cut in at 90 and then cut the 45. Though that may ruin the zero clearance of the sled so maybe dial it in at 45. Dialing it in at 45 shouldn't be any different than at 90.
  22. Ken some days I can't tell if your joking or not... Potato Lefse is a Norwegian flatbread made from Riced potatoes, flour, butter, and cream. It's cooked on a circular flat griddle. I don't have the recipe but I'll try and get it and share it. There is a more traditional version that is made with just flour eggs and buttermilk. Once made it can be stored without refrigeration for 6 months and was used by Vikings during sea voyages as food. It's commonly eaten with Lutefisk, but now is eaten with butter and sugar, jelly, or eggs and ham.
  23. https://www.woodworkerexpress.com/blum-174h7100e-onyx-0-mm-onyx-black-wing-plate-cam-adj-expando.html not sure color matters but this one claims 7-10 days. There should be enough adjustment on the hinge it's self that you could just go with the non-adjustable one. I almost always find that I have to adjust the base plate though. For the price go with the cheap now and order the adjustable ones if you need it? I might have the ones you need sitting unused in my shop. If i remember tonight I'll check for ya.
  24. Making Lefse is a thanksgiving tradition which this year I will be able to attend. During coordination conversations my mom mentioned that we needed more turners and I might be able to make some as they are a fairly simple stick. So i did some research to determine how they are used and figure out what would make a good turning stick. I found that there is the traditional size of 7/8" wide and a modern size of 1.5" wide. The wood they are typically made out of is spruce, which is a common tree in Norway. Birch is also quite common. I choose birch because I had some available and I wasn't willing to cut down my Norway Spruce just to make some turners. That said If i never need to cut my Norway Spruce down I'll be turning that log into boards. This picture shows the 3 I have made. They start off as a 5/8" blank. To thin them out I ran the blank over the jointer set to 3/16" cut until I got to the handle portion ~4" from the end. I would then stop turn the jointer off and lift the blank off the bed. This left a profile that was around 1/4" thick to the handle. The leading edge really needs to be knife sharp to get under the lefse. To accomplish this i clamped the blanks down and tapered the end 12" with a hand plane. To finish the tip I used my ROS and just free handed the sharp point. I cut some finer grooves in the handle with the band saw and cleaned everything up with various sanders. I used my leg vise router table to put a rounder over on the handles to make them more comfortable. Finish is going to be 2 coats of tried and true. I've started using this and really like it. It applies quick and easy and is harder wearing than just wax and oil. It's become my go to for food related items.