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Everything posted by Chestnut

  1. Personally I disagree your best bet if you wanted minimal grain and uniform color would have been not wood. 2nd best is don't stain then 3rd is spray dye with HVLP. For floors that's hard. After spraying the dye there really is no cure it's just doing your best to minimize the effect.
  2. Either the shelf will make the sides weak or the top and bottom will. Which ever mortise ends up being cross grain you are better off with a couple smaller tenons or even a few dowels. Looks like good ideas keep us posted and you will get more advise. Cherry is a non issue I've been using it for cutting boards for a long time as have may other people. Ask John said above the compounds are in the fruit and seeds. I wouldn't advise making a teething toy for you're kid out of cherry but a shelf or table or toy box will be fine.
  3. I'd do what was suggested above and use a slab flattening setup.
  4. I agree I'd learn to sharpen and care for chisels on something that is cheaper. I don't think 10 chisels is necessary. I have a 6mm a 15mm and a 42 mm. I don't see much point in having every size unless you use chisels for a very large part of your work flow and KNOW you need more sizes. super wide chisels are very nice when working with through mortises as it allows you to keep lines straighter and makes it easier to avoid the saw tooth look if you use multiple blows with a narrow chisel. This all goes out the window if the guy is looking to sell them dirt cheap. If they were for sale for say $750 it'd be hard to say no to them. If that's the case try and get good pictures of the real deal and make sure the markings are identical. There should be a makers mark somewhere. Generally it's stamped in the steel somewhere.
  5. How much weight are you hanging? French cleat it with 1 stud 1-2 drywall anchors. This is what i did for my coat rack and it works great.
  6. Drum sander is the tool for this job. Baltic Birch is the ply that I've had ruin HSS cutters. What you pictured looks like the American fir core stuff. I use HSS or hand tools on that all the time and have ever experienced dulling out side normal with it. If you are questioning this you can always take a hand plane and shave an edge down. Check the blade after and see if it leaves little nicks in it. I wouldn't hesitate to process BB with carbide cutters.We have to cut the stuff after all and it doesn't destroy our table saw blades ect. Cutters getting dull is just what happens....
  7. One of Megan's friends wanted an outdoor connect four game made. She sent me a picture and it looked easy enough so i said sure. The construction is pretty simple but became very tedious very quickly. I used a hole saw to drill out the game board from 1/4" pine ply. Using a 3.5" hole saw with a hand drill was not very fun and the drill caught a lot and beat me up quite a bit. The main structure is 1/4" ply sandwiching some slats that separate off the rows. I used some random hardwood, i honestly have no idea what it is, to make the internal structure as well as the legs. The next part was to make the game pieces. Again hole saw but this time 4" and i used my drill press. I had some 1/2" birch ply that was waste from making some drawers. I quickly learned that stacking pieces of ply would decrease the time it took to cut these out. I also figured out that if you position the hole saw so that part of the saw goes over the edge it clears the saw dust from the kerf and the saw cuts a lot more efficiently. Another trick is to drill a hole in the kerf. I hit the edges with a chamfer bit and gave them a quick sand. Followed with some paint. The project materials were requested to be lower in quality and painted. I wanted the whole thing to come apart for easy storage or transport. This was an interesting solution and i just borrowed some ques from the table top game. I used some thread taps to tap4 1/4"-20 holes and then mounted 2 bolts on either side. On the leg i drilled a 1/2" hole and then cut a slot on my router table. i think this is called a keyhole or something.... I used a chisel to remove some material towards the hole so there is a taper that pulls the sides in and sort of locks them in place. It works well, you can pick up the whole thing and the legs don't fall off but are easy to remove. The dump function was the most difficult part and I'm not sure that i did so well with it. If it doesn't work I'll offer to redo it but this was the best option i could think of that didn't use hinges and a catch. I didn't want to put any more money into this than i had to as it's more of a gift than something I'll ever make money on. After stainless steel fasteners material and finish I'm probably loosing on this deal anyway. It's simple and mimics what i used for the legs. It's not as easy to use as i hoped but it's not bad. Finish was some medium brown trans fast dye applied with HVLP and then 4 coats of Minwax spar urethane water borne formula. I don't much like this finish as it gives the dye and wood a green cast. Maybe it just needs to dry fully. I will probably use the rest of the can on junk projects and there is a good change it'll just get tossed. I wanted to use General Finishes exterior 450 but their distribution network sucks, Rockler was closed and a 30 min drive so i use minwax products.
  8. For how much these cost a domino is probably cheaper.....
  9. Trouble with DC noise is that the unit it's self isn't so loud. I have an Oneida unit and it's quiet until I open up a blast gate. The sound at the gate is by far louder than the DC unit. Only reason i point this out is because if the inlet was in another room I'd be able to stand by my unit without hearing protection no problems. So how they are measured may not be apples to apples comparison...... When i did my research the Laguna unit that is hepa certified had some sound dampening material added and would as a result far better in the noise area. With a basement shop I'd suggest a hepa or similar certified filter unit. With my basement shop you'd never be able to tell that I generate around 70 gallons of sawdust a month. My shop stays very clean and the rest of the house and furnace filter have little to no impact as a result. Before the hepa unit there was an impact on the furnace and rest of the house.
  10. Don't get what any of these offer over alternating parallel clamps. I also thought parallel clamps were a bit on the spendy side.... as i use these more often than anything else.
  11. Chestnut

    Scrap cedar

    How long have you been at the new house? I remember you had a small shop did you get much of an upgrade there?
  12. Chestnut

    Scrap cedar

    I can be a lot of work to reclaim material but for some species it's worth it.
  13. Nice! That looks good. Some day i'm going to have to build a reloading bench. I have all my equipment stored away in boxes right now.
  14. I bought a sweet 3 sided ruler from Bridge City before the sold to the chineese company and really like it. It was black with white markings and is the easiest i have to read. Trouble it spends more time lost than found. This is my trouble with most of my small rules and the larger 2" wide ones that have a wall hook are my go to rules now.
  15. Nice i use mine often. I like the small SS rule it has good visibility. I like the steel over aluminum as it doesn't get damaged when i drop it. Though dang that's a lot of money for such a small ruler..... i don't remember spending that much.
  16. I get it sometimes you just need someone to remind you about what you know but forgot in a moment of panic. I've been there.
  17. The only thing with the top is sometimes there are brass spaces. Just tape them together and note the corner and put them back. Otherwise top alignment is easy and honestly should be done anytime you move a saw as a misaligned top can cause work defects and in bad cases can be dangerous. It sounds FAR more daunting than it really is, if you can tighten 4 bolts you can mount a table saw top. The stretcher thing really makes it feel lighter than it is. With your arms at your side you can lift a LOT more weight than in any other position which is why it works so great for stretchers. 2 not so strong people could manage it easily. I can't remember how far away from me you are but i remember it being a bit to far for me to pop over and help you out for 15 min. I would totally do it but i feel like i'd spend far more time driving then helping ... lol. You don't happen to live near (5-6 miles) woodcraft/rockler do you? I need some GF outdoor oil and could bundle the trip.
  18. Depending on the end result i often use the first coat to raise the grain. Times i pre-raise the grain is on stuff that i want to be picky about and when I'd shoot dye. Also as a note to sand the finish i use my ETS EC 150 with 400 grit on speed 3. It makes sanding finish quick and easy. It also helps keep the dust down. When i do power sand i like to have at least 1 heavy coat on or 2 thin coats. Just in case. Yes all the time. I wipe on with a rag just like ARS. The closet drawer storage unit i made is finished entirely with shellac nothing else and boy oh boy is that thing beautifully smooth..... but it's hard to do that wiping. If i were to base coat wiping and top coat with WB spray. I'd do a few coast of shellac by hand and then sand the finish smooth.
  19. scroll down to page 52. Motor has an overheat protection in it that resets automatically.
  20. I'd not mess with a dolly period. I'd find someone else that could donate 2 min and carry it 2 pole stretcher style. I've moved my saw this way multiple times and imo it's the only way. Each person carries about 100 lbs. Going down stairs put the stronger person on the bottom as they will support a bit more weight due to the angle. I attached the 2x4s with construction screws and washers. If it needs any more clarity see below.
  21. I guess i don't know what they are spraying and what their aesthetic requirements are. What i can say is that I can defiantly get an end product that lays flat and covers well. WB finishes are different there is no way around that. I can't say that one looks better than another because it comes down to seeing the final result. Some people think that walnut looks better than cherry or maple but if the end result I desire is light in color obviously walnut isn't going to work. As a refresher if it's not known. WB doesn't yellow it just coats and has a close to colorless appearance or almost a blue appearance. OB has a very yellowing warming effect. Ways to manage this are to use a warming WB poly like General Finishes Endurovar or Minwax Oil Modified Polyurethane. The oil modified products are expensive so i tend to spray 1 coat of them and then top them with another WB poly. Another way is to spray a barrier coat of de-waxed shellac which will give some additional ambering. For oil based i tend to need more coats than the WB equivalent so water based saves me coats though i wipe on OB poly so it may not be a fair comparison. I tend to get a far better surface finish on WB as the finish is dry so quickly there is little to no time for dust to settle on the finish.
  22. This is amazing! I know you like your pieces to hint at the ability to serve a use but I'd be interested in what you came up with if you threw function out the window and just went for showy.
  23. I've sprayed a fair bit of WB poly. I'd raise the grain before and then been able to spray dye and all the coats of finish in 1 day. I think oil based stuff takes a lot longer. For a big job i might even use the HVLP to spray water to raise the grain. It would give me practice spraying the finish and If i did it right would allow me to wet the surface well and not have to wipe on or off anything. There is always goign to be 1 extra sanding step though but it usually goes fast.
  24. Chestnut


    Cedar cypress or redwood would be mysugestions. Be aware that there is a difference in rot resistance between sap wood and heart wood on these species. You might need to be picky on material selection and make sure to only use boards that are all heart wood.