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Everything posted by Chestnut

  1. Well it seems like they are really gunning after Fusion360, and well that is also free so....
  2. That wouldn't work for me. I have to install programs quite often. There are a ton of public domain hydraulic modeling programs that get random updates. I got FreeCAD installed I'm gonna see what this is all about.
  3. I wonder if i'll get in trouble if i download FreeCAD to my work computer.....
  4. Beings that we are having grinder discussions. Low speed grinders show up a lot for sharpening tools. Is there a point to have a high speed grinder around if I'm never going to do metal work? Could i use the low speed grinder for other grinding tasks like sharpening my mower blade or taking a 1/4" off of a screw?
  5. And Megan just doesn't understand why I don't really care to have a dog when we have a house full of carpet...
  6. I feel like a shovel is a good tool for lathe work in that case . Maybe the vacs have gotten better in the last 5 years, all i remember is being about to go for about 30 min and then becoming the center of a dust cloud trying to clean the filter. Maybe i was doing it wrong. Yes they are expensive, had that opinion, bought one used for a good deal. Then realized their benefit and bought another one. Chips go to my collector, my floor sweep gets used a ton and is really nice. For the festool bags i dump them out 4-5 times before tossing them so getting multiple uses is nice. It's easier to dump one of those bags through a 37mm hole than it was cleaning one of the old vac filters. I had a dust deputy and the space those things take up is miserable. It's far and away worth the extra $200 to not have to drag one of those units around. Make fun of me if you like, i used to think all festool was over priced BS, now i only think a good portion of the tools are overpriced BS.
  7. I hate to be that guy, but i don't think i could go back to a regular utility vac after running a CT vac. Cleaning pleated utility vac filters is a misery i never want to to ever again. I'd consider running a bagged utility vac but it doesn't seem like they are set up to handle it very well.
  8. My only minor issue with the hand tool cabinet at this point is, I'm not really sure where to hang it in my shop. The place i want to hang it, isn't really a good fit for it. The place i have space to hang it, is a long way form my bench. I think I'm going to have to reorganize my shop....
  9. I think that covers everything I'll keep those notes as I move forward. I'm going to make this in parallel with other projects so it may go a bit slower than my typical pace. Megan really wants to start wrapping up rooms of the house and that means i have to finish the furniture for those rooms. The next BIG item on the list is dining room chairs, I admit I've been dragging my feet on them a bit as it's a daunting project.
  10. Man that is a nice saw. I find it very interesting that they put the dust port where they did. I wonder if it collects better there opposed to out the back like what's on my laguna. Also that motor is mounted in an interesting spot it looks like it's above the Axel for the lower wheel. I figured lower would provide better center of balance but I bet that saw has more than enough weight to be stable even with the largest stock on it... .
  11. Brian, I'm thinking of starting my cabinet soon. What advice do you have to someone that is thinking of making one of these? I thought you mentioned that there was a dimension that you'd have increased knowing what you know now. I'm looking at some awesome QS ash on my rack that I'll never use for anything around the house. I'm thinking of cutting it up for the case and the internal dividers.
  12. Chestnut


    Jarrah and spotted gum look awesome. Vic ash would be cool as well. There are probably more that aren't as common that would definitely never make it to the states. Wish we could do some trading because i agree with Mark.
  13. That does depend on the part that is being restored. Like the lever iron is difficult to clean up so evaporust might be good there. On my previous planes I've just left the tarnish on those surfaces as it fits the age and character of the plane. I like the results i got polishing the sides with the #3 i may go back and correct the inferior way i cleaned up my #7 & #4.
  14. I bought this #3 a long time ago put it in a drawer and never did anything with it. Well honestly at the time I bought 2 #3s (i still have the other one), and i took some parts and switched them around to make one more "authentic". This casting came with the stamp "DAMAGED" on it. I found that very interesting. I did some research before i bought it and from the research it sounds like it was a factory second that was sold to a Stanley employee. The handles that came on the casting were some bright orange home made looking things. I swapped them with the rosewood handles from the 2nd #3 I bought. I like to keep the work i do to the planes to a minimum. I don't really like to do the evaporust method as I find that it leaves an odd looking surface. So I cleaned up the sides and sole with some sand paper on my out feed table. It made a big mess. Though it was easy to clean up with some sandpaper on a sander. After the sand paper i further worked the surface with green scotchbrite, finishing with some polishing compound. I did a bit of work to the mating surface of the frog. It was VERY rough. Then i bought a new Hock o1 blade and got it tuned up. It takes a very nice shaving and the size is small but works for me. I'm excited to put it to use on a project. Figured I'd line up all my vintage planes on the aircraft carrier for a picture
  15. I have quite a few empty spaces on my clamp rack. If you are looking to adopt them out or anything. IIRC you have the nice old Jorgensen ones.
  16. That's where i got the idea from honestly. Marc posting something about that stuff and i looked into it.Later i was playing around with the 3M paper and realized that because the adhesive was heat activated it made it really easy to fold precicsly and make 2 sided. I can't remember if PSA is always sticky or takes activation with pressure or heat. The nice thing about needing to heat activate the adhesive is it allows for easier folding. Super minor and isn't worth it to carry extra stock. I use what i have because I have it and if i don't fold it in half like this i don't use it.
  17. So @Bmac Sanding went easier than i expected. I have some 3M sand paper the no slip backer kind labeled sand blaster. It's awesome stuff. The backing is sticky when it gets hot. So my hand sanding is usually done with a 1/4 sheet that is folded in half which i then hit with my heat gun and and then press the adhesive together. This makes it a bit more rigid and easier to use as well as makes it 2 sided. Conviently i have an object that needs 2 opposite sides sanded. I just hold it together with one hand and drag the sand paper back and forth inside and it took me 10 min to sand all of the inside like this. I might go and get some 80 grit to see if that makes it any faster.
  18. I fully appreciate your thoughts and well as everyone's thoughts and input. I was wondering if you meant to glue it in the manner you stated above. Indeed i did think about that. The trouble with it how do you stop the glue at a specific line and not squeeze further down? I suppose i could use a space or wax paper but then I run into cleaning up glue. I feel like the best answer is to get as thin of kerf blade as possible and just try and eliminate it as much as possible. I checked the craftsman that i got the idea to see if images of his work would shed any light on this. It appears that his technique is very similar to what I'm doing. He has a small square portion at the bottom of each cut. This is also a good idea but as I'm not always entirely sure where the cut is goign to end up until i make it, I'd have to drill each hole as i approach the end of the cut and then finish the cut. It might add a bit of time to each part. Not a big deal. Splitting hasn't been a problem to this point, I've chosen strait grained material so there is a ton of grain run out in the collection areas. One of the first attempts i made i pulled on to see at what point it broke. It took a surprisingly large amount of effort so I'm pretty sure that unless material is wonky splitting isn't much of an issue.
  19. Excellent questions! I agree that removing the middle piece would add a bit more of a delicate look. I do like the way that it frames both of the "arches". I'm interested in seeing the end result as well. This is why I'm taking so long on this. I've been thinking and experimenting with different things to figure out if how I'm doing this is the best way to do it. Sanding isn't going to be as bad as you might think I"m going to cut these with a carbide blade and the cut is quite clean compared to some of the low end blades out there. To sand I'm going to use some of the double sided paper i have and just get it done. I have a trick that I'll show tonight when I give it a shot. Doing as you suggest does give some advantages on sanding but has some drawbacks. I'd have to deal with the glue squeeze out in the small space. The grain continuity on the ends wouldn't be as visually strong and i realize that no one would notice but I would notice. Doing slats and spacers I'd drum sand the slats which would loose me a lot of material and then have to sand off the drum sanding marks at some point. I feel it'd be the same amount of work, just different.
  20. Quite a bit different when i have to figure out how to do it in my shop, vs downloading a design off of a website that is making money off of intellectual property theft. I'd say you have an argument but you don't because it's been well established, with the illegal downloading of movies and music, that If someone hosts it and makes money off it through ads, they are still guilty. Open source and copyleft are great if you want to work your entire life and never get a paycheck (I'm exaggerating here). I don't have a problem with that at all and support the open source community as I'm a heavy Linux user. My issue is when you TAKE my design and post it on a platform that makes money giving it away to people. Especially when that VIOLATES my patent/copyright. It's clear that you don't care if people steal your intellectual property but a lot of people do care. Do i like the patent system, no not entirely but i live with it because it's the LAW. Wood waste would be huge and potential for part failure would be high. 3D printing is ugly, no way around that. You weren't woodworking in an efficient manner then. My Waste per board is very low. Board selection and part layout is critical. I cut the part out before i surface it and have little waste as "The fastest way to joint and flatten a board is with a saw". I use a band saw to cut parts where my kerf is 1/32" I don't recall ever seeing a router bit that small that can handle cnc machining. If i have to do all the perp work to get the board on the CNC i might as well just finish it with regular tools faster.
  21. It will be the side that sits between the 2 legs below the apron and above, what ever that piece is called.
  22. Are they disposable or can they take a hone or 2?
  23. You did post, it's been posts like yours on here and Frank Howarth that have turned me from thinking that CNC is complete hog wash to considering it an awesome tool. For items that require precision and accuracy they can't be beat. Kind of deviceive just like the Domino...
  24. Whoops images were all broken links. Fixed that.
  25. Nice work! I like the idea of the box being upside down. but right side up. My one comment is the edges look sharp, if that's what you are going for that's great. To me it seems like they all could benefit from a quite hit of 220 grit sand paper by hand just to give them a bit more of a soft look. (also not sure if you are completely done it looks like there are still some pencil lines)