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Everything posted by Chestnut

  1. Yeah that's a good point. I'm sure it'll work I just have it stuck in my mind to minimize flex to zero preferably. I think you'll be fine, I don't know what you have for parts around or the full setup around your drum sander but i'd probably just flip that wye around and extend off of the wye at an angle toward the saw. I bet it creates boat loads of dust but it can't be any more than a planer or jointer. Though IIRC your bandsaw has more resaw capacity than your jointer/planer?
  2. Pull the MSDS and run what ever solvent is in the finish through the gun after you are done. It should show up there. You may have to do some googling to get chemical name to common name.
  3. Yeah i snagged both of them off ebay for $40 each, i put bids on not expecting to get them because the type 9&10 #3s usually go for $100+ at least they did when I was watching last.
  4. Wow this is awesome work. The big mistake is interesting because i was searching and couldn't find it.I assume you glued the DT/s or that bottom would be falling off.
  5. I have 2 both are in good shape i'd offer to send one to you to see if you like it but I remember your in Canada and shipping is crazy expensive.
  6. Awe that's a great idea i like it a lot! That dust collection looks like you need a better solution. That's a lot of flex pipe.
  7. His argument was that it disrupts the flow and the look of the entire width of the tree and minimizes it's majesty. He did a lot of slab work i believe for that reason. I believe his big argument was against rotary cut veneer that looses the look and feel of real wood which i agree with to an extent. Though I fall on your side of the fence using the tree to it's fullest extent is one of the better ways to make use of a tree that is rare and or slow growing. If you could take one of his slabs and capture the essence but make 10 pieces of furniture didn't you just share the beauty of that tree with 10 fold more people? I need to buy some of that mesquite it is a lovely wood. I'll probably saw it into veneer and use it like you do.
  8. I agree with the veneer. The irony is i just read the part of Nakashima's the sould of the tree book where he was ranting that veneer was a desecration of a tree's essence.... I some what agree but also strongly disagree.
  9. What about getting more specialty planes like a compass plane or some molding planes? You do more than average amount of hand tool work so i can see a jack plane working well in your shop. I've never really liked the low angle planes are they something that you like to use? Also i have 2 #4s and as much as I thought after i bought the LN #4 that i'd stop using my junky Stanley one that i got dirt cheap I use them about the same amount. I'm SUPER glad i didn't listen to the nay sayers and bought my LN with a 50 degree frog. I have it set up for a light cut and when i hit the nasty spots I grab it over the Stanley. For the bulk work the Stanley does the job. I need to restore the #3s that i have to see if they are something that fits in my work. I"m sure they would but i need to have it available first.
  10. I like that you are trying to add sculpting but maintain some of the lines from the original piece. The only thing that comes to mind is if it doesn't make sense to try an follow a hard strait line just don't do it. I feel lie you have enough sculpting experience to know what's right.
  11. I never said there was anything wrong with the TV i miss those things. They just worked and you didn't have all this unnecessary junk in them that just breaks. If you do ever want to get rid of it make sure to try and sell it. I know people that are paying $100-$200 to buy them so they can play old school video games on them.
  12. Coffee table looks great. I like the design. Also how old is that TV? Did you steal it from a museum?
  13. First time veneering so lets make this as difficult as possible eh? From my view it looks like you did pretty well.
  14. Man that look really good. I agree it looks like you need more planes to fill up all that empty space.
  15. Hey I've only broken like 3 or 4. It's not my fault they insist that it should work on a 14" saw and keep replacing it for free . I'd never be able to get anything bigger than a 16" in my shop as much as i agree with you.
  16. Man that thing is a beast. I'm jealous i think I'll only ever have my 1 14" saw. It'd be nice to have a16" saw but I'm limited on space. That will be awfully nice for resawing and bent lam work.
  17. This looks like a fun project. Definitely different than the origional but i think better.
  18. Learning pains. If you included the pictures and never mentioned the issues I'd never have guessed. It looks good seriously. All you need is more projects under your belt for some confidence and you'll be constructing like a pro. I think you have a good eye for design. I had quite a few spectacular failures in the beginning.
  19. Chestnut


    I don't care for yellowing finishes on hickory/pecan I'd just shoot high performance. Multiple coats of endurovar will give a good Amber tone though if that's what you like. This is walnut with a single coat of endurovar
  20. It's a hair narrow maybe if i use a 4mm and then just do an integral tenon. I messed up a leg and have to make a new one.
  21. I think 3 narrower slats is the ticket. I might have to make a traditional mortise. ... Gasp!
  22. Yeah it doesn't sound like one of my first projects where i did frame and panel but with a twist where the braces were in the center and the corners were unconfined. It was cool but tricky. Couldnt find a picture
  23. I've never done carving. The only thing that i know about carving is that a Lady names Mary May does online classes. Another place would be to search for fan carvings on youtube and just adjust that to fit letters.
  24. I'm not sure how the larger needle and cap will work, if you cut down the flow it'll probably work the same. I think it's best to grab a piece of scrap and give it a few tests. I make some board games so they are 18"x18" flat surfaces and make perfect test platforms but a piece of cheap ply would probably work the same. For the short coats i leave the poly in the gun. I usually bring it in side some where cool and protected. I've gone as far as a few hours leaving finish in the gun. The only worry is getting a little bit of finish hardened on the tip of the needle. So when i set the gun down i make sure to clean the point where the fluid comes out. I then also spray a bit before i go back to the work piece.
  25. GF makes good poly. I know in the other thread i recommended Varathane WB the only reason for that is i continually get good results and it's $15 a quart. I should buy by the gallon like you did i could get a better product for the same price but i don't use a ton so I'm worried about it goign bad. You send me a message about thinning. I don't personally thin but i use a FUji MM4 so a 4 stage turbine hvlp which has some decent power. I use the 1.3mm needle and cap set and to set the amount of material sprayed turn the needle all the way closed and then open it 3/4 to 1 full turn. Knowing your spray setup will help with some suggestions there. I personally just sprayed some WB poly last night. I do all my spraying outside in direct sunlight and get coats to dry in about 10-15min. If i have to sand between coats i generally let them go a few hours. I don't sand between every coat. My typical approach is 3 thin coats let it sit for a few hours sand flat and spray a final thin coat. Spraying WB poly is pretty easy. When the film builds you get a slight blue haze on the surface if it gets too blue you applied too much. Not a big deal it's just going to take longer to dry.