Chestnut

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Everything posted by Chestnut

  1. Couple options. Put painters tape where you plan to cut, make sure it's adhered well. Set your blade height to 1/16" and do a climb cut to score the veneer on the bottom raise the blade the rest of the way to finish the cut normally. Reference : https://woodgears.ca/shop-tricks/tearout.html The painters tape option is the best though.
  2. Dang that's an impressive setup. So how do you revmatch shifts when the electric motor always spins at the same RPM?
  3. I always have liked the gauge on the left side of the blade. For me that's the side that gives me the most space. The right side of my saw is against a wally and would limit the length of piece I could ever cut.
  4. Chestnut

    Dado Stack

    I have the cheaper Freud SD208 and am happy with it's performance.
  5. Yeah 5hp on a 16" saw seems like overkill. I don't really need 16" of resaw either I just want the larger wheels to add a bit more throat depth and to maybe have blades last longer before the snap on me.
  6. I've been slowly figuring out the details that I want to include on this build as I go. The main thing that needed figuring out was how to ease the edges of the work pieces and what to do with the tops of the legs. I ended up taking one of my french curves and finding a layout I liked. I then made a template and drew on some reference lines. This allows me to strike a line on 2 faces of the end of each leg to make the top of the leg detail. I cut it free hand on the band saw and then clean up with some sand paper. This goes quick and it's not worth trying to figure out a router template. Some hand sanding is done to soften edges. The next big hurdle i was dealing with is how much to round over parts. Some of the parts like the top of the crest rail and the sides of the back rests I wanted to have a bit more of a round over. This will allow the thicker material to look thinner as well as softening the edges more of a part that a person will interact with more regularly. I was searching through bits online to find what I was looking for and couldn't find anything. I wanted a thumbnail type profile but smaller. I ended up finding the profile I wanted in my router bit drawer. I bought a picture frame bit a while back and the top by the bearing is exactly what I was looking for. The profile put the curve on the top of the top rail and the sides of the back rests perfectly. The rest of the edges are rounded over with a 1/16" radius round over bit. It's very slight but softens the edge perfectly. In between these steps surface prep needs to be done on the back rest parts to prep for assembly. After the back is assembled getting my #4 in there to clean up surfaces would be hard. Notable the surface of the legs was not perfectly smooth off the routing template. Dust would some times cause the edge to have a slit ridge or other imperfections. This is quickly solved with a hand plane. The surfaces that receive joinery are left as is to maintain squareness. My work bench is a pile of parts, hand planes, and sanding supplies working on getting all the parts prepped for assembly. I'm quite glad I built my workbench before starting this project. It has been an invaluable tool. To this point I've glued together 2 chair backs. They are sanded rounded and ready for the final joinery and assembly to be done.
  7. Probably in the 500 lbs range. I was looking between the Laguna LT16HD, SCM 16" saw (Ithink it was a forumla series), Hammer N4400, and the PM1500. I like the Laguna best but it has a 5hp motor and I don't really want to deal with a 40 amp breaker. But 5hp is common in this range with the exception of the PM1500 which is tied on the bottom of the list with the hammer. I can't remember why I didn't care for the hammer but there was something....oh yeah the resaw height is no better than what I have now and the unit is bigger physically than the others with 18" wheels vs 16"
  8. I'm just not sure how that works going through a finished house. It's not like they have beams or walls they can brace on or use. Sorry for the hijack i'll have to ask more questions if/when i get to buying a large tool like a 16" saw.
  9. Is there a way to accomplish the consultation before a machine is purchased. Just curious because I'd LOVE a to have a nice 16" band saw in my shop. I know the saw alone probably make the corner but I just don't know if it'd make the corner with the equipment they need to move it. Stairs with corners are stupid. I don't know why they designed them they way they did....
  10. I don't want to sound like I'm arguing not my intention. The deal breaker was if I needed to hire someone and pay a lot to move a machine in the extra cost pushed the combo out of consideration. I'd hate to hire someone to move something have them get to the corner on my sitars and then get stuck. Then I'm not only out the cost of the mover but what do I do with the machine as returning it would probably be a nightmare or expensive again. It just wasn't worth the risk for the minimal benefit. I do agree that the hammers and felders are awesome machines. Folks that don't have a shop in an awful location, like mine, should consider them first. I do love being able to go from my jointer to my planer in seconds and abuse the freedom more than some people give it credit. Doing the prototype work on my chairs I'd probably have switched like 5 times an hour. Not a problem with the machine more a problem with my lack of planning ahead of time and taking advantage that I didn't need to.
  11. There are few better compliments than Cherry and walnut, they go together like lamb and tuna fish or spaghetti and meatball. Their grain is similar, and the reds of the two wood tones tie each together nicely. In time they end up close in color with cherry goign towards medium brown and walnut lightening with time.
  12. I wasn't saying one way or another for or against any piece of equipment. Just providing information. My personal basement access has stairs laid out in a way that I just couldn't move a J/P in. That said my DW735 with HH wasn't that loud and was not disruptive outside my shop. You could hear it obviously, but my TS75 track saw is still the loudest tool by far only barley beating out the routers. This is from the many complaints I receive every time i need to use the track saw. My cordless 55 is much quieter.
  13. I'm pretty sure his shop is in a basement which adds a huge level of difficulty. Some of the j/p machines are too big and heavy to navigate into a basement shop. I had to disassemble my jointer and planer to move them in and I'm not sure that is possible with the combo machines. I don't know the full situation just thought I'd add the extra information. So the biggest downside is their size and weight.
  14. I'd rather have the hawk in my yard. At least hawks get rid of pests like squirrels and rabbits as well as the unfortunate bird. I have a few fur piles in my backyard right now from my neighborhood hawk grabbing a few rabbits.
  15. I believe that scale is adjustable. I swear I had to adjust mine. Make sure you calibrate the squareness to your table saw blade. Mine was way out there.
  16. I don't know that it's that terrible, just make sure you are limiting your exposure to the dust or wearing a dust mask / respirator. Guys work with the stuff on construction sites all day long after all so I doubt it's goign to make you drop dead tomorrow. Also keep in mind with the saw stop the moisture in treated wood may trip the brake. Make sure that you account for that etc.
  17. I think you found a great solution to your lid fitment issue. Would you put a bag inside so you don't have to dig the stinky packages out of the bottom of it?
  18. Your builds are giving me some great ideas. I'm going to be starting on some modernish style furniture in the near future and will be reference your build frequently. I Just want to say thanks ahead of time.
  19. I like my porter cable 895pk the kit comes with a mount that you can use to make your own router table. The router can then be easily removed and used hand held in a plunge base. The 890 series router is more than enough to run raised panel bits. I'd make your own table as they are very simple and easy to make. It could be as simple as a piece of plywood you attach to saw horses or as tricked out as you want.
  20. I think $500 to $550 is fair for the saw mounted in the bench. It's going to be harder to sell it as a package than separate. I think it's worth the try though. I just sold a saw similar to that to a friend who then made a setup similar to this. It'd have been an easy sell to him. I will also echo trying your local woodworking guild/organization. If you aren't getting any attention at the price you'd like I'd keep the bench and sell the saw separate. Even though you may not use the bench as is, there is a lot of good material there you can use and modify to make into a pair of mobile material carts or a mobile assembly table. I personally have a hard time selling things I've made as I tend to modify them for use in a different way as my shop evolves.
  21. The weather on the cost of the Carolinas is pretty nice. Cold for the locals but anything above freezing feels like a heat wave to a northerner.
  22. Chestnut

    New shop build

    I have 750 sq ft and maysomeday expand that to 1,000 as i could use more room.
  23. I would do hard lines inside the bench. Pvc ideally. I would just go strait to the side and then have a port that you hook the dc up to. The 90 isn't ideal but iirc that saw collection doesn't need a ton of dc flow.
  24. Probably phenolic. If it lost its flatness you could brace it flat again with shims and braces. That might be harder with cast iron. Honestly I'd get the less expensive one though. I don't feel that router tables need to be fancy. A simple table and a simple fence works for me 95% of the time.
  25. You have 3 options get a tinted finish and spray over top of the Danish oil. The ideal tinted finish would be dewaxed shellac as it adheres to everything and can be tinted easily. Spraying with an hvlp sprayer conversion or turbine. Getting the color right will be a trick as you will have to balance the underlying color with the color you are spraying. The 2nd option would be to strip the finish sand and refinish. I don't know how much the shelf is worth to you. Your best option may be to take it to a pro and pay for it to be done. They will have the equipment to do it properly and all the dyes.