Chestnut

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Posts posted by Chestnut


  1. 8 hours ago, treeslayer said:

    Looking great Drew, attention to detail when making multiple pieces is critical and you’re nailing it sir, those are going to be awesome, I may not be so frightened of making chairs after your journal is done, very good work all around 

    Getting the prototype done was the harder part now it's just batching. I'm approaching this like I'm making 6 small tables. Tables are my favorite.

     

    8 hours ago, wtnhighlander said:

    Nice work, Drew! In the syraight-on shots of the partially assembked frame, the back legs appear to bow out to the sides where the seat frame joins them. Is that really part of the shape, or just an artifact of the camera angle?

    The back rest angles away from the camera so it's just a trick of perspective. The backs legs are parallel.

     

    7 hours ago, Coop said:

    I bet Megan is impressed! 

    She is just sick of folding chairs... I think she's mentioned buying chairs once or twice but always changes her mind when she sees the cost for a solid cherry dining chair.:lol:

    • Like 1

  2. 6 hours ago, wtnhighlander said:

    I had suspect that could be a problem. My original thought was to make the bottom layer as a 'wagon wheel', with mitered boards to form the rim. I'm now leaning toward a 'donut' ring as Drew suggested. In the direction of the grain, include one board the diameter of the ring as part of the glue-up. The otger 'spoke' of the wheel, being across the grain, would be half-lapped, joind with slotted screws. Then the solid top layer joind to tge ring, again with slotted scrws to allow movement. Hopefully that would allow enough slip to avoid warping, and keep the diameters relatively close. 

    The corbel-ish supports would attach to the 'spokes' of the wheel, also with screws in slots as needed.

    The expansion and contraction difference between red oak and cherry is 1.5% so if the oak will expand 1/8" the cherry would expand 1.5% less than 1/8". That's around 0.00187". Very minimal.

    • Like 1

  3. Luckily the trees I have access to are typically fallen in the road right of way or really close. Most I'dhave to do is tug it a few feet with my pickup.

    I like the idea of a mule though, I could try and sell it as a pet and maybe could have that instead of the dog that Megan wants.

    • Haha 1

  4. Might need a bit more detail but I'm afraid your 2nd sketch would not far well. In that sketch you have grain intersecting  perpendicular. This would cause long grain to try and restrict  the expansion and contraction of the boards perpendicular to that long grain. I made a table like that once .... yeah it exploded.

    I"m not sure the effect you are trying to go for but if there is a 2 tone unfortunately the best way may be a subtop out of the different species. Make sure that both the subtop and top and oriented in the same direction and they should expand and contract similarly enough to not cause problems. Yes they may be "out of round" as seasons change but i doubt customers are going to bring in a compass and try and prove that. Unless of course these tables are going in the math department or engineering department at a local university.

    • Like 1

  5. 13 hours ago, Bmac said:

    Nailed it there Tom. If you can't move logs the bandsaw mill is a problem. Also with no hydraulics on the mill it makes it tough, but not impossible.

    I could pretty easily get that little band mill on a trailer it's only 12' long and doesn't appear to weigh too much. It is called portable after all. I agree though that the chainsaw is more portable. My trouble is a lot of the places I can get longs I can't mill logs as they are on public property where it would be in the way or private property that I'd be unlikely to get permission to do said activity. At least with a chain saw. A mill that sounded like a lawnmower with a 4 stroke engine would be easier.

    My thought is to just make the logs small enough to move. 6 foot logs or even 4 foot logs are easier to move than 8 foot or 10 foot. Yeah there is a bit more work but it's the difference between getting the lumber or not.


  6. 3 hours ago, Tom King said:

    Dang! that price makes that really really tempting. 2 good new power heads and a couple bars is not much difference in price than that. The band mill is going to be WAY faster as well i'd think.


  7. 1 hour ago, MJC said:

    Ok before I order this I am getting the 1000 HD and it is $299.99 plus they gave me a code for 10% off. Sound like a good price?

    The 1000 HD is $170 and the miter express is $170 so yeah it's a decent savings expicalyl with 10% off.

    Gives you the benefits of a sled or miter guage for esentailly the same price as the 5000.


  8. 8 minutes ago, Bmac said:

    Yes Nut, that chair is something I'm attracted to. When I've looked at Finn Juhl stuff, some of it is a little to out there for me but that chair hits my sweet spot. Thanks for the link, it's interesting for sure.

    My level of respect for Finn just went up 10 fold. They host 3d CAD models of all of his main furniture on that website for free download.

    Included a screen shot of it open in cad...

    Untitled.thumb.jpg.a27d5bfb7ab2694f9ef8c7c98f4da6a2.jpg

    One of his books also free.

    https://issuu.com/onecollection/docs/houseoffinnjuhl_catalogue

     

    • Like 2

  9. 2 minutes ago, MJC said:

    Thanks Chestnut.

    I will research those options. I did find some plans from Fix This Build That video which seem to be pretty good. I looked at the Incra one you mentioned. Does the fence on that slide over so it is even on both sides or is it always offset like I see in the photos?

    The fence is offset. I attached a piece of 3/4" mdf to mine and have it hang over to act as a zero clearance.


  10. Honestly I don't use the sled very often. There are a few styles that could be nice. Mattias Wandel on wood gears covers a few of his sled designs and reasons for them. Also John Hitz with I build it uses sleds a lot too and recently just did a new sled.

    If you don't use a lot of large parts and just wan tot handle accurate cross cuts. Look into the Incra 1000 SE or other incra miter gauges. I have 3 miter gauges and use those a LOT more often.

    Here is mine though. It's 2 hardwood blocks attached to an old kitchen shelf. I used 1 runner because 2 runners are too much work.

    0916182025_HDR.thumb.jpg.74755791bbc4ef9569a061b36ad26c50.jpg


  11. On 1/14/2020 at 11:54 AM, legenddc said:

    Thanks Chestnut. A lot of what I come across around me is maybe $1 a BF off retail and farther then the retail. Unless I want to rent a truck and drive 4 hours each way I haven't seen any 'deals' come through. Guess I'll just keep my eyes open.

     

    22 hours ago, wtnhighlander said:

    With a good yard that close, I'd stop wasting time on CL. The only reason I bother at all is because the nearest hardwood yard is almost 2 hrs away.

    I keep alrets up because sometimes i'll stumble accross the closing my shop deal. I seem to find one once a year or so and it's usually worth it. I don't have a good source for exotics and those shop purges generall have a few BF of a handful of exotic species like bocote or cocobolo.

    • Like 1

  12. 18 minutes ago, Mark J said:

    @Chestnut, I recall somewhere else on the forum you mentioned that load on the motor was decreased if the airflow was decreased.  Something about once a vacuum was created there was less load on the impeller.  So I am interested in the above statement.  

    The P-Flux comes with an 8" intake and a removable manifold with three 4" intakes.  Since I only use one machine at a time I've tended to use one of the 4" ports and keep the other two capped.  But I've always wondered if this was the "best" arrangement.  Based on your earlier comment I don't think I'm overloading the motor, and I'm probably getting the largest possible pressure gradient, but how about overall airflow (CFM) and separation?

    Air has weight, the more air you move the more weight you move. It takes more power to move more weight.

    With a fixed pipe size to increase air flow you have to increase the velocity of the air. Increasing the velocity of the air will also increase it's inertia and the inertia of particles within the air. If the air and particles hit a curve they are flung towards the outside. This is the mechanic that separates the dust from the air. Air is lighter so it's easier to redirect that air to the center of the cyclone towards the impeller. Dust travels around the outside of the cyclone eventually slowing down and dropping into the bin.

    If you have a cyclone with a large diameter you need a faster column of air to efficiently separate the dust from the air column. Larger HP cyclones have larger diameter barrels because they can pull a bit faster air through the same size duct. This only works if there are enough ports open to allow that air into the ducts. If you choke down the duct size the motor will draw less amperage yes but the air velocity won't seperate the dust from the air causing the dust to go to the filter stack instead. Efficency in this reagard is not an enegry measurement but a seperation measurement.

    A 5 hp Clear vue cyclone may separate 40% of 1 micron particles when feed with 400 cfm (a single 4" port). If 3 4" ports are open or 1 6" port that may be closer to 75% separation of 1 micron particles. (this is just an example and not reality but is not drastically far from reality.)

    • Thanks 1