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Posts posted by Chestnut

  1. 7 hours ago, K Cooper said:

    Mick, do you see yourself ever moving the bs other than cleaning underneath? I bought a hd base for mine thinking that it would be moved but I bet I’ve moved it 3 times in 4 years, usually due to the fact that a part or screw rolled underneath it. But by golly, I can if I ever want too! 

    One thing that is nice with moble bases is if any sort of maintenance or repair needs to be done. I had a set screw come loose on my jointer and it was very easy to fix. It was the first time in 2 years I'd moved the thing.

  2. 1 hour ago, wtnhighlander said:

    I wouldn't be surprised to see Gass file suit over the terms "PCS" and "Stop". 

    I understand protecting one's intellectual property, and I have no issues against the tech employed in the SS tools. My only gripe is that Gass (allegedly?) lobbied congress to pass a law requiring flesh-sensing tech on all new tablesaws sold in the US, when he owned the only tech to do so. Effectively, he was asking them to grant him a monopoly and garanteed market. Not OK, IMO.

    If someone knows this to be untrue, please set me straight.

    Did you catch the lawsuit in 2015 he filed against every maker of table saw for" conspired to boycott SawStop’s safety technology and corrupt a private safety-standard-setting process".

    The original case and appeal were both dismissed. It was interesting though. He seems like he's more interested in doing lawyer things than table saws.

    Just in case you missed it the above is a link to the US courts document.

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  3. Interesting. Yeah videos are good. I like books tough as i can flip back to a specific tool or section quickly and i can get the information faster than some one can speak it.

    A 2 min video showing me how a tool works would be good too. I can't focus for some of the 45 min + tutorials though. I end up playing around and figuring out most of the stuff and then have to endlessly search for the stuff i didn't find.

    Just a warning, like Ross mentioned FreeCAD is free and will always be free. Fusion360 is on the whims of Autodesk. If they get bought out and the company that buys them decides they no longer want to provide storage for your files you are SOL.

    • Like 1

  4. 9 minutes ago, JohnG said:

    Any smart company defends their patents. No point in going through the time and expense of getting them if you’re not going to defend them. 

    Hopefully this coming out will spur some other innovation, either from SS or other companies. It shows that there are other methods, and potentially better ones still. 

    This is true. The meat cutting band saw method is pretty interesting as well. It's been posted around.

    If it were me I'd create a system that has a brake on the blade and then make the user dip their fingers in nano bots. Track the nano bots and when ever they get with in a 1/4" of the blade activate the brake. Only because nano bots and woodworking would be an awesome pair.

    • Haha 2

  5. Man makes me hungry for a hotdog.... got one in the fridge for lunch :D

    This is an awesome system, defiantly improves on what Bosch did let alone the sawstop system. The blade destruction and brake system was ok for a first iteration but I'm almost slightly disappointed after seeing this that Sawstop stopped innovating. Hindsight makes this seem like the next logical step.

    I'm goign to continue to be irritated I'll never get a slider into my shop.... too big and too heavy.

    • Like 1

  6. @Mark J Have you tried

    I'm not criticizing any of the software either. I'm just pointing out that Fusion360 is intended to be perpetually free for people that are using it for hobby use or commercial use that makes less than $100k/year. Autodesk, despite their other failings, is good at putting their products in the hands of individuals for free.

    @wtnhighlander My comment may came off as critical at FreeCAD, wasn't my intention. From my first 100foot view of using it for about 2 min it seems awfully capable but appears to have a steep learning curve. I personally found fusion to be a little bit less steep (like 0.5%) but I've been using Autodesk products, much to my displeasure, for a large part of my life :(.

    Personally i think strait up AutoCAD 3D is the easiest and fastest way to do what you want but I can't find a way to get you that software for cheap let alone free.

    • Like 1

  7. 11 hours ago, wtnhighlander said:

    Regarding the 'freeness' of Fusion360: while you may obtain a no-cost educational license by claiming to be an educator, the program is most certainly not 'free'. Autodesk can require a paid license or subscription at any time. Much as Trimble did with Sketchup, users may one day find themselves stuck with a cloud-only, limited feature version, or none at all. For home & hobby users, this is my biggest arguement for learning FreeCAD.

    Trimble never all of a sudden charged. They bought the software from google and then monetized it. Autodesk is a pretty decent company and will keep fusion free for startups under $100k and hobbyists and students. They know they can't make money off of the little fish at $400/year.

    • Like 1

  8. Just now, wtnhighlander said:

    Most users at my work aren't even allowed to install applications. If you are, its not likely anyone will notice.

    For a while, anyway.

    That wouldn't work for me. I have to install programs quite often. There are a ton of public domain hydraulic modeling programs that get random updates.

    I got FreeCAD installed I'm gonna see what this is all about.

  9. Beings that we are having grinder discussions. Low speed grinders show up a lot for sharpening tools. Is there a point to have a high speed grinder around if I'm never going to do metal work? Could i use the low speed grinder for other grinding tasks like sharpening my mower blade or taking a 1/4" off of a screw?

  10. 8 minutes ago, Mark J said:

    It's my wife's dog.  She is a very sweet and likable pooch, but she has taken it upon herself to pee on the carpets from time to time.  When this happens I have to imediately break down my shop vac and convert it to wet mode and clean up the mess.  Then the vac has to be washed out and left to dry.  Then hook everything back up.

    I got tired of doing this.  So I decided if I was buying one vac for the shop I would be doggone if I wasn't going to get one for the house.  So now I have a smaller format Vacmaster without wheels in the closet.  And now that my workshop vac does not need to be disassembled, etc., there's no reason the whole operation can't be my wife's.:o

    And Megan just doesn't understand why I don't really care to have a dog when we have a house full of carpet...

  11. I feel like a shovel is a good tool for lathe work in that case :P. Maybe the vacs have gotten better in the last 5 years, all i remember is being about to go for about 30 min and then  becoming the center of a dust cloud trying to clean the filter. Maybe i was doing it wrong. Yes they are expensive, had that opinion, bought one used for a good deal. Then realized their benefit and bought another one.

    Chips go to my collector, my floor sweep gets used a ton and is really nice. For the festool bags i dump them out 4-5 times before tossing them so getting multiple uses is nice. It's easier to dump one of those bags through a 37mm hole than it was cleaning one of the old vac filters. I had a dust deputy and the space those things take up is miserable. It's far and away worth the extra $200 to not have to drag one of those units around. Make fun of me if you like, i used to think all festool was over priced BS, now i only think a good portion of the tools are overpriced BS.


    • Like 2

  12. I hate to be that guy, but i don't think i could go back to a regular utility vac after running a CT vac. Cleaning pleated utility vac filters is a misery i never want to to ever again. I'd consider running a bagged utility vac but it doesn't seem like they are set up to handle it very well.

  13. I think that covers everything I'll keep those notes as I move forward. I'm going to make this in parallel with other projects so it may go a bit slower than my typical pace. Megan really wants to start wrapping up rooms of the house and that means i have to finish the furniture for those rooms. The next BIG item on the list is dining room chairs, I admit I've been dragging my feet on them a bit as it's a daunting project.

    • Like 2

  14. Man that is a nice saw.

    I find it very interesting that they put the dust port where they did. I wonder if it collects better there opposed to out the back like what's on my laguna.

    Also that motor is mounted in an interesting spot it looks like it's above the Axel for the lower wheel. I figured lower would provide better center of balance but I bet that saw has more than enough weight to be stable even with the largest stock on it... :D.

  15. Brian,

    I'm thinking of starting my cabinet soon. What advice do you have to someone that is thinking of making one of these? I thought you mentioned that there was a dimension that you'd have increased knowing what you know now.

    I'm looking at some awesome QS ash on my rack that I'll never use for anything around the house. I'm thinking of cutting it up for the case and the internal dividers.

    • Like 1

  16. 4 hours ago, lewisc said:

    Which ones?

    Jarrah and spotted gum look awesome. Vic ash would be cool as well. There are probably more that aren't as common that would definitely never make it to the states.

    Wish we could do some trading because i agree with Mark.


  17. 1 hour ago, SawDustB said:

    Very nice. I go with the Evaporust if the rust goes into a lot of crevices and things, but my new favorite method is a brass wire wheel on my bench grinder. As long as you're not too aggressive, I find it does a nice job of removing rust and leaving a reasonable looking surface.

    That does depend on the part that is being restored. Like the lever iron is difficult to clean up so evaporust might be good there. On my previous planes I've just left the tarnish on those surfaces as it fits the age and character of the plane. I like the results i got polishing the sides with the #3 i may go back and correct the inferior way i cleaned up my #7 & #4.

  18. 4 minutes ago, Chet said:

    I use this stuff from Epoch Wood. Two Sided Sandpaper

    It works out to about .40 a sheet for a 4.5 X 2.75 inch piece.  But it's pretty durable and works well for getting in to tight spots and corners.  I use the 400 for all my between coat sanding.  

    That's where i got the idea from honestly. Marc posting something about that stuff and i looked into it.Later i was playing around with the 3M paper and realized that because the adhesive was heat activated it made it really easy to fold precicsly and make 2 sided.

    1 hour ago, treeslayer said:

    I always keep a couple of rolls of PSA paper around for just such a task. 

    I can't remember if PSA is always sticky or takes activation with pressure or heat. The nice thing about needing to heat activate the adhesive is it allows for easier folding. Super minor and isn't worth it to carry extra stock. I use what i have because I have it and if i don't fold it in half like this i don't use it.