• Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Posts posted by Chestnut

  1. Another thought is if the part that faces back should be enclosed or open with some cross braces? If i leave it open and spaced from the house foxes may take care of any rodents that try and make it home. I found a gut pile in my yard and a bunch of fur the other day. Either a rabbit or a squirrel became the dinner of something.

    Between foxes, hawks, eagles, coyotes, and my pellet gun  varmints have a tough time in my area.

    • Like 1

  2. 10 hours ago, treeslayer said:

    oh, and just wish I had you for a neighbor

    It'd be fun to have a fellow woodworker for a neighbor. I'll let Bill know your interested in his house :D. He's got an insulated heated and cooled oversized 3 stall garage that would make an awesome shop.

    9 hours ago, wtnhighlander said:

    Bugs might be different up there in the great frozen north. Just sharing my experience. We kept a stack ready and dry under the carport, but spiders and centepedes were always a problem. At least you aren't bringing it inside.

    As for the rough, I just like the texture. My house is sided with it. It will look good in contrast with the smooth stock of the framework, too.

    I like that thought. I might just clean up the back side of the panel to get a better glue bond and leave the front rough. I'm going to lay it out and see what i think. Yeah we get bugs here for about 5 months of the year. The other 7 months the freezing cold weather kills them pretty fast. It is a concern of mine that it will attract mice and bugs but i don't know of a way to store wood that doesn't attract pests. I'm going to apply some chemicals to the inside to attempt to keep them away.

    9 hours ago, K Cooper said:

    I have about 20 pickets leftover from the fence build and will use most to replace older purple Martin houses. I plan to sticker them for a while, then plane them down, only because they will be painted on the outside. Fence and panels, I prefer rough. 

    I have a lot of the pickets standing on end to dry in my shop. They are pretty dang high in MC so I'd like them to dry out some before i use them. The dryer pickets are on the rack on the wall. I'll be working on this again tonight as the head index is supposed to be 110 here today. It's a typical Houston day 95 F and an 80 degree dew point.


  3. 25 minutes ago, treeslayer said:

    50/50 I think on making them smooth, more work for you but I know you ain’t scared of work, once they are stained I don’t think many people would notice, oh, and just wish I had you for a neighbor

    It would be at most a trip through the planner both sides. Because It's outdoors and going to be stained I'm not going to put much effort into getting a silky smooth finish.

    1 minute ago, wtnhighlander said:

    I'd leave the pickets rough. As someone who grew up with firewood for heat, I'd also suggest keeping that away from the house a bit. Firewood stacks make wonderful homes for all sorts of creepie-crawlies that you don't want inside.

    Would a couple feet be enough or should i put it on the other side of my lot? I was leaning smooth, what makes you think rough? The rails and legs are planned smooth.

  4. 8 minutes ago, K Cooper said:

    For any metal fasteners, I would use the decking type screws, especially in lieu of brad nails. I speak from experience. I just replaced a cedar fence that my neighbor put up three years ago. Bless his heart, he furnished everything and I paid for it. But this past spring I noticed it leaning heavily toward me. Everything was attached with drywall screws. 

    I failed to mention they are stainless brad nails. Mainly just in place of clamping, tight bond 3 will be the main long term attachment.  I found they also make galvanized brads but in my research galvanized isn't suggested in contact with cedar and redwood.

  5. So with the new fire pit I figure i should have a place to store firewood. The side of my house that i want to store the wood on faces my neighbor so i want the storage to look somewhat presentable. I decided on a design with a simple shed roof and that I'd make it out of cedar. I bought some 4x4s for the corner posts and decided to go with 1xs for bottom braces and the rest of the structure. For the main "siding" I guess you could call it i decided upon fence pickets as they were cheap.


    Using dominoes to attach the top and bottom rail for each side.


    To attach the siding i glued a backer board to the back of the rails to create a shelf or makeshift dado. I'll end up gluing and nialing the pickets to these. I'm not going all out with this and am going to use brad nails in many places to speed along construction. For finish i'm probably just going to use some decking/fence stain.


    To promote airflow to allow the lumber to dry the sides and back are going to be spaces 3/4". The roof I will attempt to make somewhat watertight though.


    Think i should plane all the pickets smooth or leave them rough?

    • Like 2

  6. 1 hour ago, Bankstick said:

    Missed it by 100 years but it was a guess without researching. A shooting magazine had an article by a fellow who toured the factory in Italy. And think that some people go to Italy to see the Vatican. That would be second on my list! Chestnut, you made a good choice. It's on my wish list. FWIW, I was going to buy my wife a new shotgun for Christmas. She said if I did, it would only be used once.

    A guy won it from a raffle and had traded it in for a better model I got it for something like $850 quite a few years ago and felt like i got a heck of a deal. It had never been shot.

  7. 19 hours ago, Bmac said:

    I'm making the board for my son who loves to surf. It's also a challenge that has been fun to tackle. Who knows I might just try to surf some after this build.

    What I really want to make for myself is a SUP (stand up paddleboard). I plan on putting that on my list if this goes well, I have plenty of paulownia wood left over for that and a few more boards. 

    This project fits into my interests with a lot of shaping and some artistic license for design. The downside so far has been the seemingly 1 million glueups I've had to do!

    I have also wanted to make a stand up paddle board. There are parts of your build above that are awesome and go completely over my head. Good work i hope you sare the end result.

    21 hours ago, pkinneb said:

    Wow that's awesome! Thanks for taking us along although i'm not going to lie at the rate at which you and Chestnut knock out high quality projects makes me feel like quite the slug lol

    One tip I'm sure you were planing on it but just in case you will need to coat the epoxy with a top coat as UV will break the epoxy down.

    Hey now. I haven't done any wood working in at least a week. :P Your basement is a lot of work and is going to be awesome when it is done.

    • Like 1

  8. On 7/14/2019 at 1:54 PM, Bankstick said:

    I would not only spec it but if the Beretta was in good shape, I'd build it for him! They have been making firearms for about 400 years, if I get my years correctly.

    It's been family owned for closer to 500 years. I love my Beretta shotgun. It's a dream to shoot, and i have one of their low end ones.

  9. The contractor could have warned you that maple blotches. There is a fine line to walk between thinking the customer knows what is going to happen and needing to prevent a future complaint.

    There is no preventing dye/stain blotching on maple, there is only minimizing the effect. Any wood conditions/bloch preventives have limitations despite the sales pitches their creators claim. They also have a financial and aesthetic cost. Generally they won't allow the wood to pick up as much pigment so the coloring is a lot lighter.  I don't want to be rude but maple is the problem and the blame lies with the wood.

    Maple can be a  beautiful wood. With time it will oxidize to a beautiful light caramel color. It's hard to get over how light it is and how yellow it looks originally. If you are brave and can give it time the end result is great. I believe there was a picture on here in another thread about maple that shows the difference between new wood and wood a few years old.

  10. Personally I disagree your best bet if you wanted minimal grain and uniform color would have been not wood. 2nd best is don't stain then 3rd is spray dye with HVLP. For floors that's hard. After spraying the dye there really is no cure it's just doing your best to minimize the effect.

  11. Either the shelf will make the sides weak or the top and bottom will. Which ever mortise ends up being cross grain you are better off with a couple smaller tenons or even a few dowels.

    Looks like good ideas keep us posted and you will get more advise.

    Cherry is a non issue I've been using it for cutting boards for a long time as have may other people. Ask John said above the compounds are in the fruit and seeds. I wouldn't advise making a teething toy for you're kid out of cherry but a shelf or table or toy box will be fine.

  12. I agree I'd learn to sharpen and care for chisels on something that is cheaper.

    I don't think 10 chisels is necessary. I have a 6mm a 15mm and a 42 mm. I don't see much point in having every size unless you use chisels for a very large part of your work flow and KNOW you need more sizes. super wide chisels are very nice when working with through mortises as it allows you to keep lines straighter and makes it easier to avoid the saw tooth look if you use multiple blows with a narrow chisel.

    This all goes out the window if the guy is looking to sell them dirt cheap. If they were for sale for say $750 it'd be hard to say no to them. If that's the case try and get good pictures of the real deal and make sure the markings are identical. There should be a makers mark somewhere. Generally it's stamped in the steel somewhere.

  13. Drum sander is the tool for this job.

    Baltic Birch is the ply that I've had ruin HSS cutters. What you pictured looks like the American fir core stuff. I use HSS or hand tools on that all the time and have ever experienced dulling out side normal with it. If you are questioning this you can always take a hand plane and shave an edge down. Check the blade after and see if it leaves little nicks in it.

    I wouldn't hesitate to process BB with carbide cutters.We have to cut the stuff after all and it doesn't destroy our table saw blades ect. Cutters getting dull is just what happens....

    • Like 1

  14. 12 hours ago, wtnhighlander said:

    It looks like the scissor design of the clamping mechanism applies pressure top and bottom as well as side to side, so boards are forced into alignment. If you aren't using dominoes, that is.

    For how much these cost a domino is probably cheaper.....:ph34r:

    • Haha 1