Chestnut

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Everything posted by Chestnut

  1. I really like the idea Tom and I'm going to give it a shot. I also want to look into one thing before i try that. There is a pretty good gap on one end and it looks like there is a hanger bolt that got mounted in the end post and goes into the railing. I'm gonna get a flashlight and see if i can maybe open the gap up a bit more somehow and identify what is in there. If there is a hanger bolt, I was thinking about trying to pull the underside cap on each end with a small screw and a slide hammer of some sort. This way if i damage a part it's on the underside of the rail so any color matching i try and do is not going to be noticed. If it's just nails I'll try your route. All of the balusters are just nailed in. I went to each one and tried twisting them and they all moved a very small amount. If they were glued they would be rock solid. My comment on tossing the whole thing was frustration i really don't want to do that, not because it looks nice but more because it'd be expensive to replace and odds are would cost more than the couch i'm trying to move. I was having dreams about becoming a pirate and figured i'd need to brush up on my plank walking skills. It's a good vantage point to take a picture of the whole dining/living room.
  2. Was it pink? I saw some made somewhere and the syrup turned out with a good pink tint.
  3. Vin this is nicer than my main bench and my assembly table combined.... solid work the outcome is pretty awesome.
  4. I'm gonna life up the glass and play with it . I'm looking forward to seeing your piece and the exhibit this year.
  5. Pictures of the connection point of the rail to the post. And the prime offender. It's 28-29" from wall to front and i want to say 24" from ground to top of back rest with the feet off. It doesn't fit down the sitars width ways and if you bring it down the 24" way you can't turn the corner.... There is one last way we haven't tried but i can't get any one else to help me. Between this couch and my jointer i fear I've burned all my moving things bridges and owe a lot of favors.
  6. They are considered a trash tree along with walnut and cherry by those that know nothing about wood. They generate a lot of debris. Box elder also have box elder bugs.
  7. Post is to my knowledge attached with a metal plate or angle brackets to the sub floor. This is my guess from feeling through the carpet. Tried it 5 different ways.... doesn't fit. Tried it with all parts that can be removed removed and the above. No go. Yep looked at this too. All casement windows with the largest opening being 18-20". I figured it'd be more work to remove and rehang a casement window than removing the railing. Not to mention I don't have any exterior paint the color of the house and There is maybe a 1/4" wiggle in the end post and that's with a lot of force. I can and have walked on the top of the railing for ... well stupid reasons. I can see filled finish nail holes in the spacer pieces under the top rail and as well in the bottom spacer pieces. This is just making me want to tear the thing out and reinstall it in a proper way that can be disassembled and reassembled if needed.... I'm thinking cherry handrail newels and balusters would look nicer anyway. I'll never be able to match the trim in this house anyway it's all of 30 years old and who knows what was applied to the oak back then to get the color.
  8. I also don't know how thick of lumber you can cut with a panel saw. There are also some benefits to a track saw I don't know if panel saws are capable of bevel cuts for example, or plunge cuts?
  9. Those off cuts could make some interesting handles or other turned objects. I enjoy showing Box elder pieces to people shortly after the express strong dislike for the trees. They usually eat their hat as well.
  10. I know there are some carpentry types on the forum. I have a railing that goes around our staircase and it's causing a major hang up in my plans. Megan and I have couch that we'd both like moved into our basement. Despite much cursing, damage to popcorn ceiling, and sore muscles, we have not been able to get it in the basement. If the railing was removed it'd fit strait down. This is the biggest hurdle that has prevented me from starting my Morris Couch build that is going to match the Morris chairs i finished a year ago. Is there an easy way to remove and reinstall the railing? In the distant future I'd like to go to hardwood floors as well which will require me to remove the railing again. I'd like to learn how these work. Does any one have a good resource that will illustrate how to accomplish this or that can explain it to me? I've searched and despite usually being able to find what i need on the internet this time I've been stumped and I've been searching off and on for the last 9 months. Picture for clarity. Also to note the individual spindles are loose in some places my hope is that this can easily come out and go back in.
  11. I have not had any bad luck with an inconsistent reveal or binding not sure if it's just a matter of time yet or not. I also taper my drawers at least 1/16" and set 2 stops on the rear. It allows me to cheat and make sure the face of the drawer is flush on both sides. I suppose the same could be done with the center guides as well. The part that I've had the most hang ups with is vertical contraction. I've had to tape drawer heights very slightly front to back to make sure they fit perfect and have a consistent reveal. I would probably have that trouble with center guides too though. His Chester Drawers project was really good for the center guides as well. I almost implemented it on the walnut dresser i made but there were a few things that held me back. Mainly i didn't plan ahead and got caught with the dust frames and didn't have a good way to implement the center guide after the fact.
  12. Wonderful piece. I love how dark the maple ends up looking it compliments the walnut better than stark white maple would. I have yet to try the center guide for drawers. I like inset drawers so after i get them sized, they usually don't need any guides and adding one would add complication. I've done a couple chester drawers now and things are working out ok. I agree with Brandon above about the taper looking a bit heavy. My sticking point is how thin the leg looks at the bottom of the case. I like delicate but when the flair is as drastic at the bottom the piece starts to look like gumby. It's really only pronounced in 1 picture other wise i think the taper looks good. Probably a trick of the camera so i say the above as a joke.
  13. I've never noticed any snipe on my sander as well. Maybe it's a depth of cut thing as well. I usually try and take a fair pass so the system is on the edge of the intillisand kicking on. To my limited experience this is a good balance between speed of stock removal and abrasive life. Man i wish that was caught on video.....
  14. If you can sand the finish with out little finish pills forming it's cured enough. The amount of time depends on how thick you applied the finish. I can get away with sanding after 24-48 hours. Are you applying another layer of finish? Even steel wool going to leave scratches that will be obvious on the finished surface. You really want your last coat to not be touched unless you polish it with a very high grit, much higher than what you can get in steel wool.
  15. The color of the wood when it's wet is not going to be the same as when it's dry. There isn't much you can do about it. With everything appreciate the color the wood is going to be 10 years from now not what it is today. The color today won't last all wood changes color some spices are more dramatic than others. UV light will accelerate the color change but keeping it out of UV light is not an end of time solution. https://www.wood-database.com/wood-articles/preventing-color-changes-in-exotic-woods/
  16. Yeah if i did oak i'd probably try and pore fill the oak. I don't know if i'm going to be able to get 8/4 cherry cheap any more with my yard closing. I'm going to head there monday and possibly buy all the 8/4 cherry they have left.
  17. Does it make much difference over a regular rabbet plane? I've got an old Stanley #78 I use, and more recently a large shoulder plane for that kind of thing. I think the skew block is far easier to manage than a shoulder plane as it's not tall so you're less likely to taper the tenon. It's less about appearance and more about not breaking off a large part of the tenon and it just seems to have a bit more control. This is for tenons and rabbets. For truing up shoulders it probably wouldn't work well but i have good luck with a chisel there.
  18. That looks far better with the strait rails and stiles.
  19. Skew rabbet. I use it for tenons and other stuff like that. For me it handles a lot nicer and doesn't blow out the back side of tenons.
  20. I think you made an awesome bench like incredibly awesome. I'm tempted to call up Cremona and ask to buy some of the Oak he milled last year to make my own roubo. It's either that or cherry.
  21. I've never tried waterlox the price has always kept me away and it doesn't seem a whole lot different that the 2 wiping polys. I don't mix either. I don't have time to keep 3 ingredients and mix them it's easiest to just buy it. Doesn't look any different to me anyway.
  22. According to this 1 foot of flex hose is equal to about 6 feet of solid hose. an s curve with sweeping bends using 2 45s would be about the same resistance as 5 feet of flex hose. This was done using the default numbers in the spread sheet linked below and modifying the 6" flex. If you'd like to get something more accurate the higher the total loss number the worse off. Don't worry so much about the exact numbers but more compare different parts. More information can be had on that site than is available any where else. http://billpentz.com/woodworking/cyclone/staticcalc.xls
  23. I must have been thinking about something else. Now that i think about it there was only ever small amounts of goo left over on the bottom of the stick. Good hockey tape can grip really well i remember the leather palms of my gloves never won the battle against it.
  24. Man i haven't taped a stick in a decade..... Never really liked how it got gooey over time. Do you have that problem?