Chestnut

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Everything posted by Chestnut

  1. Chestnut

    Hijack!

    I think that was their 37th. I honestly have no idea how their program has been as successful as it has been. This is our 3rd head coach in 10 years. A good number of the players are from small farming towns that only have 9 man programs and college is their first exposure to playing 11 man ball.
  2. I have some small dmt diamond sharpening plates. If i need my cuts to be nice and crisp I'll lap my old tired bit with a couple strokes on the flat side and it makes a world of difference. If there is backwards grain I'll also take the last light cut in a climb orientation. I guess i only do this if the piece is large enough to control. If it's a small piece i try and orient the grain so I'm never cutting against the grain.
  3. My opinion is have the upholstery frame sit only 1/4" at most below the frame. It's not very comfortable when the cushion compresses and you feel the hard wooden edge on the back of your leg. This is going to depend on the thickness of the upholstery though. The nice part is if you install it lower you can always shim the upholstery frame up but you can't really shim it down. I've shimmed up the upholstery frame on my Morris chairs already to get a better fit than i originally built.
  4. Chestnut

    Hijack!

    Meh at the pro football. My Alma mater just won their 8th DI championship in the last 9 years!!! The game was close and was a nail bitter at the end.
  5. I had to buy mine worth every penny. Beretta knows how to make a shotgun....
  6. Harbor Freight has good jacks. I've used one of their 1.5 Ton low profile jacks for many years now. Non of my vehicles weight enough to even get close to maxing out the jack. I also appreciated the low profile part as my car doesn't have much space underneath. The other part about the one I use that I like is that it weighs 33 lbs so i can easily toss it in my pickup and take it with me.
  7. So with the prototype #3 complete I've ferreted out most of the potential issues that I think I'm going to have with the project. Step 1 was stock selection. I dug through the 6/4 stock I bought to make the chairs. For the rear legs i wanted close to rift sawn stock that had a swoop in the grain that would match the bend of the rear legs. I was able to get 8-9 of the legs with perfect grain. I don't want to be bee too picky as they are a use chair not a show chair. I used my 1/4" thick template to outline blanks. This example is probably the worst grain that I had for the legs. Most of the other are tighter and more strait. I cut the outside off first. After I got the legs to this point I took them to the jointer to flatten 1 side. After I flattened the 1 side I cut each blank out of the stock. I operated this way because i wanted the cuts to be as strait as possible between the blanks to minimize waste. Cutting 1 leg out of a 5" wide by 42" long piece of lumber is wasteful. I can nest them and get 3 pieces out of a 7" wide board. The other benefit is if the grain is running in a good direction I can get good grain and color match and preserve more of the preferable rift sawn grain. This does create a HUGE issue. Joinery reference surfaces are non existent on 2 sides now. This is solved by marking the center point of the rails and using a routing sled to finalize the shape of the legs. I believe mar does the rear legs from blanks the way he does in the dining chair series to make it easier to maintain the joinery reference surfaces. I feel maintaining that surface is unimportant because the next steps with the legs will reestablish good joinery surfaces. After each leg is liberated from the main stock, they are planed so the top face is made parallel to the jointed face. I planed after separating them because I had my layout lines marked. Also the wider stock was easier to control on the jointer but is less important on the planer. With the blanks planed to thickness I mounted them into my template sled for shaping. The sled has 2 sides. The first side takes the rough blank and allows me to position it to set the first reference edge. I have a reference mark on the sled that provides me the center line for the chair side rails. This allows me to position the blank on the opposite side of the sled. On the opposite side the previously routed edge references the fence, in this case it's the block that hold the toggle clamps, and allows the blank to be shaped to exact size. For reference the sled is explained here (https://www.woodtalkonline.com/topic/30442-dining-chairs/?do=findComment&comment=401609). For this round I only managed to get 1 side of the rear legs done. From the off cuts shown in picture #2, I was able to get at least 1 front leg and in some cases 2. Because the stock contained a lot of rift grain the front legs generally have minimal grain runout and have nice strait grain. My waste from off of this is quite minimal as a result. This waste will be used as well to make some turning blanks. I think I'm going to use it to experiment with some really large Celtic knots. I'm goign to build the chairs from the back rest forward. I will join the rear legs together first. Second the front legs will be attached to the rear legs with the side rails. I will then grab dimensions for the front rail and will assemble the side rails, front rail, and front legs all at once. With the construction going this way I'll need to have the back rail and headrest rail cut out first. I made a routing sled for the crest rails as well. This one sucked to use a lot. Because it was so small i had a lot of catches and it scared the crap out of me too many times for my liking. I also cut out the rear and side rails. This will rest until I need them. Then i will cut them closer to final dimensions and template route them as well. More to come here.
  8. I had thought about that. The trouble is, those are the types of things that Megan doesn't like. She would want all chairs to bet the same.
  9. Chestnut

    Hijack!

    Awesome technique for door hinges that are different from what most hinge companies could provide. Thought someone here might like to find this. I might also reference it in the future.
  10. Dados don't generally need to be very deep to provide strength. If you glue them the glue is the larger strength aspect with the dado secondary. I read a few articles that did testing on bottoms mounted in dados and they determined that the deeper the dado the weaker the joint. The side, be it plywood or solid wood, ended up failing first. In practicality a 1/8" deep dado is a good balance shallower than that it's difficult to cut the drawer bottom precise enough deeper than that makes construction easier at the cost of strength. I wouldn't worry a ton until your dado is over 1/3 to 1/2 the thickness of your side. Spline jig. I made one that fits many needs. I made basically a tall fence that slips over my table saw fence. This will allow me to cut tenons and other vertical cuts as well as cutting splines. For one random spline I'll just clamp the work piece strait to the board. If I'm cutting multiple I will use screws and attach blocks to the face to act as work holding (along with clamps for safety). You can probably see some screw holes in this next picture. I made it in a few min and it's lasted me many years already.
  11. Chestnut

    Photography

    Shop cameras are fun things to have. I don't know what the used value of it is but, there are some items that aren't worth the hassle of trying to sell.
  12. Yeah it's complicated in thought but easy in practice. Have the angle set (can be any angle really) and a stop to hit the same distance each time. Then it's cut, fill, rotate 90 degrees. thinking about it more and more you could do a 6 sided blank and have 6 inserts or 5 sided ect ect and the variations could be interesting and fun to play with. It's pretty flexible. Adjusting the stop location for half the cuts may lead to an interesting effect as well. The options really are limitless. These are things I've thought about playing with since i posted this.
  13. I've been eating dinner in the strait back prototype the last few days and while the heavy curve is more comfortable It's not really noticeably so. The difference isn't really enough to warrant the extra effort. It'd be fun to maybe do 1 or 2 of them but trying to sell that to Megan would be difficult. Everything has to be the same for her and having 2 drastically different chairs our of 6 would bother her. If i wanted to cut out the curve instead of laminate I'd need to get 12/4 cherry (10/4 would be enough but no one carries that around here, I've looked) and I'd have to order at least $500 worth. The cost isn't the big thing really it's the availability and the waste. Even If I milled my own I'd still look for ways to efficiently use the wood.
  14. I've used III for some out door bird feeders and it holds up well. 2 did not however. The glue weakened and separated.
  15. It's making my head spin as well, trouble is I have to make it through these chairs or else the constant jabs from the folks on here would drive me crazy . I have been spending the better part of the last 3 months trying to figure it out. I've been doing so as I work on other projects but the difficulties with these chairs have been at the front of my mind.
  16. Makes a bit of a mess for my liking. I use 2 mostly. I use 3 when water exposure is expected. I've never had an issue with time on TB II. Though when i know I'll have an issue i use epoxy.
  17. Chestnut

    Photography

    I saw one run across the road not that long ago. They are in our area but are uncommon and nocturnal.
  18. I'd check the brushes on the motor. I've never been able to figure out how long the brushes would last but there is no way they can last forever. I don't know if that would cause the problem but maybe?
  19. Chestnut

    Rest Stop

    Only time i can get hands free to work is when I'm swimming ....
  20. Yes except I'd need to waste a butt load of 10/4 cherry which i don't have and don't want to waste just to get a 1/2" thick back. My counter argument is the time saved in figuring out the joinery would be spend cleaning up band saw marks and shaping the back rest. A 9" wide curved resaw would be very challenging in a different way. My design that I'm standing firm on is what is causing the troubles. If i yield on the design it ruins the idea I've had for the last 6 years. Now that i know the drastic curve isn't really necessary I might still do some curve but just contain it within a 6/4 board which is what i was going to use anyway... we shall see. A very gentle curve that I'm picturing could be sent through the drum sander to make fast work of cleanup, well at least one side.
  21. So i spent a bunch of time trying to figure out various parts of the dining chair this weekend. I wanted to get prototype #3 done and I'm glad that I did. I made a lot of good progress and then it all got thrown away. I struggled for a long time trying to figure out how to do the joinery for the backrest. The angle at the top comes off of a curved portion and the bottom has an odd angle and is in the middle of a curve. I ended up figuring out that I could scribe 2 side pieces to the curve of the back rest that would allow me to make a jig that would clamp on. Between the 2 side pieces I managed to make a flat area that was perpendicular to the bottom of the back rest. This would allow me to use the domino to cut a mortise. A person could make this a bit larger and use a router as well. The tabs on the sides got removed they were just there to hold every thing in place while I fasted the brace between the 2 sides. This worked out really well. I centered the domino on the back rest and was able to plunge in quite a large mortise. both ends of the back rest were done this way. The top side had a similar jig but the angles were different. I ended up getting a fer angles off and there was a bad gap when i glued everything together. This is what a prototype is for. After I got the back rest figured out I did another seat sculpting. I took my template for the seat and used that to outline the shape of the seat. I then used the band saw to do some pre-sculpting. For seats like this I find it best to use an odd number of parts. This allows you to cut a center that has an easy to cut shape. It's a simple dish with the corners knocked off. This shapes the seat area and the pommel. Using the center you can then scribe and cut out the 2 parts adjacent to the center. Take care not to cut behind the lines that you have drawn for the outline. The right side of this part looks a little weird for this reason. It's possible to use wide boards to make the seat this way. You will just have to rip those wide boards into smaller pieces to make the parts easier to pre-sculpt. It would be possible to do this with out pre-sculpting but it would be a LOT more difficult. With 3 parts cut i put the seat together and drew on a few guide lines where I wanted slopes to go and get a general idea of the seat. I also scribed the middle side pieces to their neighbor. With those lines determined I took pieces 2 and 6 and sculpted them with the RAS before assembly. This allows you do see lines of the side end and top to have an easier time sculpting. Thanks @Bmac The tips on sculpting really make a difference. I like the idea of sculpting as far as you can before glue up. After all pre-sculpting is complete. At this point the seat feels good and all that is left is cleaning up and removing a few high spots. After this I glued the seat together and then did the final sculpting. I used the RAS and the goose neck scraper. I know Bmac likes the RO90 here but the scraper does such a dang good job I'm not sure that I'm gonna get the RO90. I go the chair together and brought it upstairs to try out. I wanted to play with seat height to see what was comfortable. This chair I made to 17 3/4" tall with the table at 30 1/2" it's a bit too short. The previous chair at 18 1/2" felt much better. This reinforces the 11_1/2" to 12" difference from table height to chair height that I've always used. It's better for the chairs to be taller than shorter. Here is where I throw all of the progress away. The backrest is nice but after sitting in the chair, Megan liked it ok but said that she didn't care about it. The curve out is a LOT of work the joinery is miserable and it'd add hours to each chair. In the end she said she doesn't like the look and told me to scrap it. I'm really glad we had the conversation at this point and not after I had a bunch of back rests made!
  22. Chestnut

    Photography

    Nope not in the slightest. They are weather sealed and can be cleaned for a fee. The biggest reason, if i was worried about the camera I'd never use it. My shop is one of the cleanest danger free places that camera has traveled.
  23. As long as the grain direction in the veneer is the same as that in the substrate behind there should be minimal issue. It's likely that there will be some variance in expansion and contraction but it won't be enough to cause troubles. If the veneer was to be applied perpendicular to the grain of the substrate issues would probably arise. A balanced veneer in the first situation would check all the proper boxes but you could get away with veneering just one side. I've done this with shop made veneer in my Walnut Dresser Build as well as my closet storage build. The sides of the drawers and the dovetails will be enough to hold the front of the drawer flat, although it's unlikely that a thin veneer would be strong enough to cup a small drawer front. The benefit to veneering just the front would be to allow you to veneer the drawer fronts after the drawers are constructed and assembled allowing a lot more control over grain continuity. To back this up reading both Nakashima and Maloof they both stated that if veneer is applied parallel to the grain it's not necessary to veneer both sides. Nakashima referenced it with a strong distaste for veneer, Maloof approached veneer as another tool to achieve a goal.
  24. A friend of mine lives on a street that was just replaced. The street was paved with wood cobbles that were soaked in creosote. I guess the salvaged as much of the cobbles as they could and replaced them in a sidewalk or something to appease the historical society. Are you saying we should start saving our scraps and cover our shop floors in scraps?
  25. Chestnut

    Photography

    I made a holder for my camera in my shop. I was moving a lot of large items around and got worried that I'd bump it. Should have done this a while ago.