Chestnut

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Everything posted by Chestnut

  1. Off topic but are you still working your 2nd job? I haven't stopped in at the store in a long time.
  2. White oak has some natural rot resistance but it isn't strongly allelopathic like walnut is.
  3. Be careful with sawdust in a garden you care about. It can throw off the nutrient balance also walnut is a natural herbicide.
  4. Coop, I'd use a hand plane making sure to work in a manner that minimizes blowout. Usually that means from the sides toward the center. I usually work from all sorts of angles until i find the one that reduces the tear out and blowout. For drawers i clamp 2 boards across my bench and hang the drawer off the side. Edit: To add this is one of the reasons why having your legs flush with the side of your bench is quite helpful. It gave the box 3 points of contact and made everything quite sturdy.
  5. Four drywall magnet. Lath and plaster is a big tougher. I've never had luck with the electronic doodads.
  6. Scraps get boiled down to species. Pine usually goes strait to the fire pit as it costs more to store it than it does to just buy new. Woods like Oak and what not if they are under 7-8" x 2" they go to the fire pit. As the cost of the species increases the minimum size decreases. The one exception is if it's a super HARD species. Then i keep super small like 1" x 1" pieces to make knobs and what not for. I like the hard wood because i can thread it with thread taps and forgo inserts. Weird pieces of wood like the off cuts from tapering furniture legs get kept because they make excellent shim material for what ever needs shimming. Long thin strips I've been keeping to use as experimentation with bent lamination or for random bent lamination projects. I also save all of my hand plane shavings for fire starting. Dang stuff works better than gasoline. If you want to use all of your small scraps end grain cutting boards are a good way to use even the smallest pieces. Also small toy vehicles like trucks ect are good as the can utilize a lot of small pieces. I also use small pieces for things like bit setup, depth gauging, stop blocks, sacrificial blocks ect. My sawdust goes to the landfill. It's just not worth any time to try and do anything different with it. I generate too much. Speaking of that i need to empty my dust bin.....
  7. I think the only thing that I'd keep in your sell list is the jointer. The other stuff I could get by with out and sub in hand tools to get the job done. A bigger band saw would be better though it's not necessary there are some hand tools that would allow you to complete those operations. I like Mark's idea of the log though make sure to add details. I don't use my table saw a lot but it'd be hard to live without it. Honestly I've been thinking about buying a 2nd table saw and have been watching the used market pretty heavily just in case a good deal dances naked in front of me.
  8. Paint would be the lowest maintenance coating. I'm assuming that's not an option. Otherwise to keep it nice a twice a year application of some sort of outdoor oil finish is really all there is. I'd avoid a film forming finish. I've had good luck with both General Finishes Outdoor oil and Real Milk Paint company Outdoor defense. they both have some resins to help keep out water and some compounds in the finish that will help prevent bacteria and fungus from growing.
  9. Good luck. I really like the piece it has a lot of good character and depth.
  10. Sex wax is an awesome product. Used it all the time to get some extra grip on hockey sticks. The second thing i remember is how good it smells. I never realized it was for surfing until i saw the product in California on the beaches.
  11. I saw this this morning and it reminded me of the paloni pocket rule. The price isn't super awful like some of their stuff. I do really like my SS pocket rule a lot but i find myself getting frustrated with hook rules often. I personally think their regular wide aluminum rulers are as good as these their downside is they are larger but that can be a positive thing as well. It does overlap them because they have a hook option that is removable.
  12. I've had real good luck with the Purdy brand brushes. I use them a lot for paint but have used them in the past when i brushed poly. I used to be able to brush a nice smooth coat of poly but after i started using the wipe on stuff i never looked back. I also never had good luck with foam brushes. They always seemed to leave behind air bubbles maybe i was doing something wrong but the bristle brushes gave me a better finish.
  13. This sounds like a job for a band saw not a table saw... loosing an 1/8" kerf means over 250 pieces your turning 3 Bf of wood into saw dust. Just my opinion. At 7mm final thickness you can get those through a planer. I'd run these off of 1 m boards and then cut the smaller strips afterward. Drum sander would be better but not everyone has a drum sander.
  14. I think Ronn has this perfectly explained. Hope you share a finished picture with us!
  15. Could you give a sentence or two describing the books or giving a suggestion? Also as this is a style reference can you list the furniture style for each book as well?
  16. If their list new price is $2,500 their 10% off price is $2,250. Personally I'd wait the little bit till the fall Powermatic sale and buy new for a hair more. Either that or try and negotiate the seller down further.
  17. Oneida has a HEPA filter retrofit kit as well. https://www.oneida-air.com/true-hepa-dust-collector-filter-retrofit-kit I want to saw there is a 3rd option but i can't remember it off the top of my head. If you don't put a cyclone in the system you'll want to clean the filter frequently. probably every other time you empty the dust bag.
  18. Isn't that a documented thing? I swore i read somewhere about glue seams creeping or the glue expanding and leaving them raised?
  19. Coop stop telling people my secrets..... Post them up and i'll get the added to the list. REFERENCE POST
  20. I got both sides of the storage rack done. I got all the boards glued and nailed in place with TB III and stainless steel brads. Beings that i want the front angled I need to cut the angle in the ends of the posts. I figured that it would be easier to do this after everything is constructed as I'd be able to cut a line with the track saw. I always forget that the track saw cut depth is 2.75" and not 3.125" either way neither is cutting through the 4x4 in one go. So i grabbed one of those odd toothed plates of steel they used to use hundreds of years ago and finished the cut. Jokes, i use hand saws quite often for random things. They really are a great tool to have in the shop. I cleaned up the cut with my #4 just to make sure the ends was somewhat even. Below is the completed side.
  21. To move 800-1000cfm through a 4" pipe the pressure difference would be beyond what consumer collectors are capable of. There isn't a single consumer grade saw that has a 6" dust port to the balde shroud. This isn't considering a sealed cabinet on a table saw and using a ZCI would never flow that much air either. Not sure where you got your numbers but they don't seem realistic for consumer grade tools. Quoting OSHA and euro industrial standards is fine but most of us are not in industrial shops nor are we using industrial tools.
  22. Even with proper jointing it happens. Saw cut joints are only 1/3rd of the way through the pavement anyway. The downfall of having to deal with pavement temps that swing from -40 to 140+
  23. Your way probably is better after all it's how RAS were designed. That said any time you make a climb cut there is slightly more danger than the alternative. The climb cut is going to give a lot better cut quality and with experience is a non-issue. I use the "recommended" method above and get OK dust collection and don't have issues with the blade binding even with twisted wood. A lot of this boils down to experience. Negative hook blades are silly.... had one and it was terrible. Felt like trying to cut a board with a butter knife.
  24. Flat, i don't really use cambered blades for anything. My smoothing planes have 1 swipe on the finest stone with a bit of extra pressure on each corner and that's enough.