Chestnut

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Everything posted by Chestnut

  1. Probably not. Plantation grown lumber is probably just less dense then the natural stuff that was harvested 50 years ago. Also there is considerable variation in lumber from region to region and board to board.
  2. Don't hold a belt sander between you knees and try and sand a bit off the end of a closet rod. Make sure that you can feed plywood all the way through your saw before you start you cut. It's easier to stop a mess from happening than cleaning it up after it's happened ( dust, wood scraps, ect.) Don't try and catch a falling chisel or hand plane with your foot, unless you are really confidant in your monkey feet or steel toe shoes.
  3. I've used this method to move my table saw around quite a few times. It does require a 2nd person but it's not that heavy and carrying the saw like this makes it really easy.
  4. Man the old and wise are getting all techy. I just use engineering paper and a ruler. I usually assign 1 square as 4" and wing it. Am i allowed to say this with out offending?
  5. Yes a poly top coat will fill in the scratches from the sanding and make it look clear again. I used to use hardwood floor poly as a "screen protector" on my old LG choclate 2 phone when the screen got scratched so bad i couldn't read it any longer.
  6. Yeah it's the part that goes on the end of the hose that connects to the tool.
  7. The PJ 882 is an outstanding jointer i have one. The strait blade model will be onsale over black friday weekend 10% off which puts it at just shy of 2k which is still considerable more than where your at. The Helical head for it from byrd is like $450 which means you could get the $3200 jointer for $2500 ish. leaving you the ability to save for the helical head to buy later. just a thought. Jet would probably be an okay option. The problem is with $2500 is the 12" grizz seems to be a pretty decent jointer and isn't much more but offers 4" more capacity.
  8. Cremona gets lumber dry a heck of a lot faster than people say he should. I'd say that he isn't drying it to EMC except I've bought some wood from him and he's usually below my shops EMC. I'd also say it's been drying longer but he videos and posts every piece he mills. The situation seems like your dealing with someone that doesn't know what's going on, I'd pass.
  9. I might have a spare connector for a festool hose. Actually i might have a couple. Is this what your talking about?
  10. NP. That wood hardener is a good product for softish wood that is dry rotting. What i didn't say but meant to, is that it does make the wood more firm as well as killing any of the rot. If the area is thin an exterior rated wood filler that isn't a 2 part can fill in some small areas and should last.
  11. Chestnut

    Hijack!

    literally a firewood pile. I grabbed some other logs i thought were walnut but ended up being not walnut. Must be some kind of elm because i don't know any other woods that are that dark.
  12. Chestnut

    Hijack!

    This is the most red i've seen inside box elder personally. I've seen some stuff online taht was better than this. I wonder if the secret is felling the tree in the fall?
  13. There are a couple methods to do this. I recently rebuilt some storm windows using the follow method. I figured it doesn't matter this is a good way. If it's for interior use only you could swap the epoxy filler with any wood filler. The trouble becomes most wood fillers aren't structural only the epoxy ones. Meaning if the window is going to fall apart they won't hold it together the epoxy stuff will. Starting condition. They were in bad shape and i had to nail braces to the frames to keep them together while i rebuilt them. I did this on a few windows o note that not all corners are the same. I removed as much of the bad material as i could. I used a chisel but sandpaper or a putty knife would work as well. After i removed the bulk of the rotted material i used Minwax wood Hardener to kill the bacteria that causes the dry rot. Follow the directions on the container. It's a very nasty product so use disposable brushes and do it some place well ventilated. After that i used a 2 part epoxy wood putty there are a lot of brands i chose minwax because it was the cheapest i think. Follow the directions to mix it. This is not an exact science just try and get as close to the ratio as possible by reckoning. "I reckon that looks about right". Work a a comfortable pace the working time isn't super long. Also depending on the repair you might need to do a few coats or fillings. I had to do 3 or 4. This wood filler is structurally stable so you shouldn't have to worry about strength sacrifices. This stuff also is very pungant so again well ventilated area. Sand smooth rinse repeat until it gets rebuilt properly. If you have details in the wood like molding curves this could be difficult, this approach more artwork than science there and i an't help you with that sorry. Prime with a good primer rated for your exposure. And top coat with a coating to fit the exposure. What ever top coat you choose either outlined above or what ever else you have found this is the base that you will need to do a successful rebuild. This didn't take me long and the most advanced tool i used was a power sander. Remember that anything that touches the uncured products will be ruined so use disposable. Once cured it shouldn't damage anything. I did 3 storm windows in about 4 hours. Most of that was curing time. To mimic wood i used the bristles of a paint brush to fake in some wood grain on the paint.
  14. More information would be helpful. Can you post pictures of the damaged wood? Also where is the item going to be placed indoors outdors? Do you have a home store ( home depot lowes) near by or will you have to order material online?
  15. If the wood is soft and roting or has dry rot it will either need to be stabilized or replaced. I've rebuilt corners of rotting window frames before with epoxy putty and a rot stabilizing solution. Mixing top coats will not solve the problem it'll only cover it up. If the wood is just weathered remove the paint sand smooth and use an exterior primer and paint if it's going outside. Clear finishes don't really protect wood as well as an exterior paint will.
  16. It's too short of a humidity spike. If i remember Shannon saying often KD wood is slow to pickup moisture and quicker to shed it. As long as the client uses their fan to get rid of the humidity there shouldn't be an additional concerns other than standard wood movement. If they don't use their fan and leave their bathroom a humid mess they have bigger concerns than a vanity mold would be a huge problem. I've made bathroom items out of solid wood and have never noticed any issues with them warping cracking, cupping, ect.
  17. Chestnut

    Hijack!

    I feel like he might have asked first as well. Some times asking first makes all the difference.
  18. Wait green as in not dried at all? Local guy here http://www.logs-to-lumber.com/big-live-edge-slabs/ he sells dried lumber though. I bought some small stuff from Fromona he charged $3.25 BF dry.
  19. Quick as in i did put a ton of elbow grease into it just lightly and quickly ran the paper over the surface. I typically let the poly cure for 12 ish hours between coats. There are conflicting view points on this. I've read a few places that some woodworkers are adamant about NEVER letting water touch the wood. Some use it to raise the grain ect. My personal technique is to raise the grain on any project that might have water touch the wood. If I use a waterborne finish or an oil/wax finish I'll raise the grain. Any thing that sees oil poly i don't bother.
  20. Sure here is everything i did. I picked some information up for a lot of different places. I sanded everything to 180 grit. More specifically i planned scrapped and then sanded with 180. First coat was de-waxed shellac, Seal-coat. Followed by 3 coats of a satin wiping poly, I used Minwax Wipe On Poly, mostly because it's dirt cheap. I bought 4 quarts a while ago for $5 each. Between the coats i quickly sanded with 320 using a block of wood wrapped in a rag folded over 3 times. I let the final coat cure for at least 24 hours. Then i used a high grit wet/dry abrasive pad (festool platin) and used some mineral oil and mineral spirits to wet sand the finish. I used my EC sander on power 3. The final step is from a WW guild meeting, i feel like i have to say there is a lot of good information there even outside the projects them selves.
  21. Chestnut

    Hijack!

    Man i'm glad i'm not the only one. I logged a LOT of video game hours and now i just can't bring myself to turn them on any more. Awesome project IB someday I'll have to make one of these i have 3-4 laptops laying around that would work perfectly.
  22. I bought my PJ882 2 months or so ago, full well knowing that a black Friday sale was going to come and knock 10% off but i had no jointer and wanted to get the work done so i sucked it up. I've probably saved the 10% in just cheaper wood on the projects I've done so far with it. The ouch part is the PJ882HH has a large premium over the strait knives where it's cheaper ($450) to buy the strait knife jointer and replace the head.
  23. I'm going to add the same comment with a twist. Find something you don't think you could make, then go and make it. Don't go hog wild but splurge on some nicer woods. If you keep pushing your limits on every project but never feel like you need a new tool take that money and invest in instruction, or good plans, and then try some different more expensive woods. Just because some of us throw our money away on tools doesn't mean we need to. I'm sure some of our shops, mine for example, have nicer tools than we have ability to use.