Chestnut

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Everything posted by Chestnut

  1. From my experience the grante removes material better. It also has the blue coating that keeps the grains on the paper better. With rubin i got a lot of grit to fall off the paper and then caused awful pigtails. Also i feel the paper lasts quite a bit longer. I get a lot of exclamation about how many projects i complete. I bought a 100 pack of 180 grit 3 years ago and am not even half way through the box. This is my ONLY box of paper until a couple months ago when i added 120 grit for carpentry work.
  2. Got some boring bug killer for the slabs that are drying under my trees.
  3. As touched on before the optimum stoke will depend on the grit. If you are stating at 100 and sanding up to 220 the 150/3 will give you a slightly better surface finish on higher grits. It'll work well to smooth finishes and paints. The 150/5 will work at higher grits as well but there may be more sanding defects, the upside to the 5mm stroke is it will remove material at lower grits a bit faster. Not incredibly significantly so. Personally i think the 150/3 is the better choice for most shops. Getting bulk removal with a drum sander (or wide belt sander in your case) belt sander or hand plane is easy but the finer sanding pattern isn't as widely available. The other option is multiple sanders have a 150/5 for 60-150 grit and the 150/3 for 150 and above. Shane and I talked about this at length and 150-180 grit in his opinion was the cross over point between the sanders for optimum stroke for the given grit. So it really depends on where your priority lies. I can't say that any one sander is what a cabinet shop should have. If you start goign to smooth glossy finishes the 150/3 will be a much better bet. If you are just removing wood they both will work with a slight nod to the 150/5 due to marginal speed difference. I use the granat sandpaper from festool it's not cheap but it's good paper. Avoid rubin II. I know nothing about klingspor
  4. They look good but these machines are out of my reach. Imo the grizzly is probably less uncertain their customer service is generally really good.
  5. What grit do you sand with typically?
  6. Man i could spend hours watching his show.
  7. Matt Cremona just used this to spray 2k Urathane on his trailer and said it worked well even though the material was wrong for the gun tip size. I'm pretty sure he said in one of his posts that the hvlp is an erlex machine with rockler's name on it. So you are getting something decent. https://www.rockler.com/rockler-hvlp-finishing-sprayer I think you'd be better off with, and get a better finish with, a cheap hvlp. Even though the HVLP turbine kit is a bit more expensive than just the compressor and spray gun you'll likely get finish defects from oil and water even with that small separator. I think Tom King has detailed his air cleaning devices that he found were necessary to run an HVLP and they made a Fuji MM 4 look cheap. Also you'll get about 10 seconds of spraying before the pressure drops too low which will require probably 60 seconds of recharge. It may not seem annoying but it'll get REALLY old really fast. Chasing uneven results will be the telltale sign and the most frustrating part. As a note a there are 7.48 gallons per cubic feet. Boyles law tells us that your compressor has 2.4 CF of 40 psi air when full. Beings that you can only use about half that until the tank needs to recharge you'd have closer to 15 seconds of air flow time. Here is my question, I'm not sure how all the conversion guns work, does the trigger control both the air flow and fluid flow? My turbine gun only controls the fluid flow and air is constantly flowing. So if a conversion gun works the same you are going to have to install a valve before the gun that you will have to turn on and off to maintain pressure in the compressor tank. Which by the time you flick the valve on and get your body in position to spray you may run out of air. An alternative to get some additional spray time at the cost of recharge time is adding a larger tank to the system but $$$ and this is where a cheap hvlp really starts to win out. I spray aggravation game boards a lot and the average time it takes me to put 1 coat on an 18" square is about 4 min. That's with a turbine and continual airflow. If I had to work in 10 second increments with a minute of recharge spraying the same item would take me almost 30 min. Assuming 10 seconds of spray and a 60 second wait for recharge.
  8. So today I got to give Megan's grandfather Dave a great father's day present. He spent his working life driving truck and farming neither jobs are very easy and it took a toll on him. Dave is in his late 70s and has COPD that basically keeps him in a chair all day every day as a result he doesn't have the ability to maintain his house as well as he may well like. So yesterday I went over and replaced their sliding glass door. The old door was rotten through, there were leaks to the inside and it was about to fall apart. It indeed did break apart when we removed it. I, with some help from my soon to be father-in-law, installed a new vinyl slider in just a few hours. The fun part was getting to answer Dave's questions about my battery powered track saw. He'd never seen anything like it in the world and "how does that cut siding when there is no blade in it?" were his exact words. I brought the saw over to him showed him how it worked with the plunge action retracting the blade for safety and other reasons. I also showed him how the track works to get perfectly strait cuts with easy layout. It was interesting how he immediately grasped the benefits of the system and was excited at how some small changes made a simple circular saw better. Hope everyone has a good Father's day.
  9. https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/hand-tools/planes/blades/100620-stanley-record-cap-irons-with-veritas-bench-plane-blade I highly recommend the Veritas PMV-11 blades and breakers. I've used Hock on both A2 and 0-1 and i personally feel the pmv-11 is a far better metal. Get a matched chip breaker and blade as they need to work together well and the stock chip breaker may not function well if the leading edge is damaged from rust pitting. Taking it back with lapping my make it too short to press against the blade properly. I normally pull the stock blade and breaker off and stick it in a drawer un touched for the future. This is my opinion: I don't want a plane that is made to look like it just rolled off the factory floor today. I want a plane that looks like it's 100 years old but is clean. Which one is preservation which one is restoration? I don't know. I don't like the rust removal baths much because they do little to remove some of the surface staining that may have occurred for what ever reason. Also they do little to address minor pitting from rust. I use elbow grease. This also allows me to "flatten" out the sole of the plane some provided it may have moved since manufacture. After i use some elbow grease i use a green scotch brite pad to even out the sheen on the bottom and sides and then eventually polish it up a bit. The old stanley planes from the early 1900s are good. Really good. Never use a current veritas or Lie-nielsen plane because the old planes don't compare. After a new breaker and iron and a lot of time and elbow grease the price difference isn't all that much for a lot of the planes, unless your time isn't very valuable.
  10. That is a wonderful looking box great work! I need to get my hands on some butternut, I'm really liking the look of it. How many projects have you completed now since I've even started my next project!? Slow down turbo!
  11. Chestnut

    Photography

    The 750 is a good camera.The low ISO is very helpful for getting that water motion blur while not needing to carry a neutral density filter. That's a really good looking picture.
  12. That's a good plan. I suppose beings that you don't have the motor yet you haven't been able to determine if the inrush current at startup will be able to be handled by a 20 amp breaker. The 2 hp motor i have that is wired for 120v trips the breaker 50% of the time just spinning up the motor. Adding a load like a cutter head may make it not function on 120v so something that might need to be checked. That said i ran a 2hp harbor freight DC on 120v and never had a circuit trip. I wonder if those DC motors would be able to be used for a tool and if so i wonder how cheap you can get a decent HF DC for used. I sold mine for $100 and it was gone in 45 min.
  13. BCTW is all made in china now as the company that bought them (harvey) is located there. If your concern is about quality i would banish that concern the Harvey owner is just as picky as the BCTW creator. There have been multiple blog posts by John about this and a good article here that covers some details. https://www.woodworkersjournal.com/a-new-chapter-for-bridge-city/ If it's about supporting a local company well then i have no response other than there is woodpeckers.... lol.
  14. I've always thought a pet racoon would be interesting. They are quite smart creatures and heard they can be trained really easily. Trouble is they are still a wild animal even if tamed.
  15. I like #2 as it allows that portion to maybe hold a deck of cards and a drink but accomplishes about the same design aspect as #1.
  16. It wasn't the hording so much as the shift from commercial TP at work places to retail TP for house use. I really want to share that with Megan Charmin relabel is her TP of choice and we haven't been getting it here.
  17. This is true but if the table saw was in as rough of shape as it was you'd have a higher chance of needing to replace that motor sooner than later. Also at 12" wide a 3 hp motor might be better suited. I guess you never mentioned what you are goign to use for the motor did you? Are you doing video of this?
  18. This is going to be an interesting build I'm excited to follow this one along. I agree with you assessment of the lunchbox cutter-heads. The small diameter makes them slightly undesirable and if you are goign to put the effort in you might as well do it "right". I think the cast iron wing idea is a good one there have been many times that I've browsed used tools to possible salvage some parts to use to make something different. I ended up not buying anything but that's because other aspects of life got in the way and i had to put projects on hold. Some day I'm goign to make a large belt sander so i hope you are ok with me borrowing what ever ideas i can from you.
  19. Counter top shops will give away pieces of granite or quartz as well and those are also flat. For chisel sizes I like a 6mm 1/2" and 1.5". I find i really only need 3. If i have 4 a 3/4" or 1" will find it way into my hand but it's not necessary. You don't need the perfect size a narrower chisel will work just as well but leave you some freedom away from marring edges. The reason i say 6mm instead of 1/4" is because a 6mm chisel is loose in a 1/4" mortise and makes the work far far easier. A really wide chisel like 1.5" is nice for reinforcing baselines that span long distances. Instead of buying 16 difference sizes buy the same 3 or 4 sizes in a couple quality levels. I'd start out cheap to get over the fear of ruining a good chisel while learning to sharpen. Once you get sharpening figured out buy a nice set like the vertias PMV-11 ones. I have found loads of uses for a beater chisel like if metal is near or for house carpentry work.
  20. That's really cool and looks great. This was in my inbox yesterday. Not sure if it's somethign your sister would attempt but there is some good advise within. https://www.woodcraft.com/blog_entries/go-antiquing-with-milk-paint-and-shellac?trk_msg=8ER9JF3SF4HKNF4F4SM0OAATEK&trk_contact=B7NO7P5TLS9K0OMA5QE11QO1HS&trk_sid=I83LODA795PLRKFJC2GL0SKIL8&utm_source=listrak&utm_medium=email&utm_term=WCMAG+GO+ANTIQUING&utm_campaign=June+Clearance
  21. That is a beautiful table. I really like the leather addition it makes this stand out and seem different and unique. Very cool.
  22. Chestnut

    more power!

    Man that description makes 4 months of frozen stiff sound way better. I'm glad i live in the north.
  23. The little bit of veneer work I've done I used both. The painters tape held the veneer together from the backside while everything was laid out. Then I put veneer tape on the top side, the painters tape was removed just prior to gluing to a substrate. I believe i asked why veneer tape is better and the answer was painter's tape has a much larger thickness and when a few layers are overlapped it can create uneven clamping pressure. I also don't know for a fact but I'm not sure that painter's tape will release nicely after gluing. Veneer tape sands off very quickly and easily with 220 grit and in my experience doesn't discolor the veneer.
  24. I've been told they break in with time and that yank softens a lot. My favorite install is one soft close one regular minimizes that yank but still provides the functionality. If you try the blum tandem they are also in a different world than most of the side mount slides. Soft close cabinet doors though are worth every penny imo.