Chestnut

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Everything posted by Chestnut

  1. Paul where did you get your ammonia? Did you get it locally or order online?
  2. Hey hey hey i only forgot glue that one time.... well and that other time.... I think i should have worded that a bit differently. I bet they are nice with a track saw but i have had decent luck with a shorter square. These kenix ones are nice because they have a thick blade. https://www.amazon.com/Kinex-4034-12-020-Machinist-Square-0-0008/dp/B079R8BVYW/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=kinex+square&qid=1565872081&s=gateway&sr=8-4 My draw to the WP stuff isn't the size but that they make it from material that doesn't rust. I have to go through and wax my squares just like my planes and cast iron. Speaking of that i really should wax everything again it's been a while.
  3. I wish i had easy access to a bunch of QS sycamore. I've always thought it was a pretty wood but haven't found a source for it and it doesn't grow locally. My favorites are below. Chestnut, but i haven't made anything from it because i only have 3 boards and well.... it's not like the tree is really around any more.... Redwood Birch is another favorite for both secondary wood and using figured stuff for primary wood. I also have some Chokecherry that is pretty interesting to work with.
  4. It'd be interesting if the cut out all the bells and whistles and just made them blank if they could sell them for a lot less. All that CNC milling and laser etching measurements has to take a long time to set up and will increase waste that they have to make up for and is it really useful? A big square like these would be nice and there aren't a lot of options but at the same time my 10"x7" square gets the job done. I don't feel that my furniture is falling apart because i used a $25 square over a $250 one.
  5. I think the hand tool cabinet will come first. I need to get a new planer, and the roubo is a milling heavy project.
  6. If you do solid wood, movement becomes something you should worry about with the shelves. The best way would e a sliding dovetail or a breadboard style connection to the side panel. The bookcases i made a year ago were solid wood and have a very open feel to them. They have held up very well over a full year of humidity changes. 1 thing i consider is that good quality plywood doesn't necessarily save money over hardwood but it's easier to use for some situations.
  7. Thanks for the detail on the chisel holder. I swear I'm going to make a hand tool cabinet one of these days.
  8. That's a good idea for lifting the bench up. Part of me worries that the dominoes in the softwood will eventually fail but maybe not.
  9. I'd try one first but it does come in 3 sizes. It does clog like some of the cheaper bits but a light tap usually clears it unlike the cheap ones. I usually only use #8 screws so i will only buy one.
  10. I can't remember where i posted them. I should probably make a dedicated post.
  11. Been working on this lately. I'm trying to get it done so i can finally consolidate my firewood storage to one spot. Glued the sides together. This guy is nearly 8' long so it was a tricky job. My parallel clamp extenders have been put to use a LOT since i've made them. The center post wasn't supported very well so i ran a brace to the top back rail. I also did a grid system for the bottom with a couple support blocks. I wanted to keep the bottom support quite open so as much air flow can surround the wood as possible. I figure keeping the moisture out will help prevent the storage rack from rotting out. Used my counter sink drill bit i got from rockler to do some free hand pocket holes. I like this bit a lot and do recomend it. It's not the best but it does the trick for me. https://www.rockler.com/8-pro-tapered-countersink-bit I got the doors mounted and found some nice marine hardware that i used for hinges and latches. I'm goign to leave the dog ear on the pickets that overhang the front edge. I set it up and kind of like the look. Unless someone gives me a good reason why this is foolish. I'll post some links to the hardware later. I'm quite impressed with some of the marine hardware that is available on Amazon. Hinges are tight and seem to be well made. You can get them in 316 stainless so it should hold up outdoors for a long time.
  12. I just put a board under the mobile base and shove the thing sideways to get it against the wall. Yeah it's going to wear the wheels out eventually but I've so far done it 3 times. Not sure how often you have to move yours around.
  13. I know of a township that is trying to sell their fire truck think they want like $12k for it.
  14. I'd have the edge of the table 3-4 " overhanging the bottom of the leg. This is similar to the kick plate on cabinets. I wouldn't worry 1 bit about it tipping. the table i made last winter was 36" wide and my base was 24" wide so that left 6" over over hang and it takes me sitting on the edge to ever get it to start to tip. End over hang is preference. With your leg design, sit at a table and figure out where you can put the leg so it's not on the knee of the end person sitting on the long side. There is nothing i hate more than trying to pull up a chair to a table and the leg is perfectly positioned on my knee. I'd prefer to straddle it if it has to be in the way. So probably around 8" maybe 10"
  15. It does the job great but once you tumble down the rabbet hole of specialty planes i think a dedicated rabbet plane with a fence might work a hare better.
  16. The cases came out wonderful. Is a great way to honor those individuals and their families.
  17. I made a shower bench out of Ipe and it's held up well. Finish wise i uses watco butcher block finish which is 2 years old and is holding well. Showers don't generally get the UV light that outdoor furniture does so what ever finish will last longer. I've had good luck with outdoor defence from the real milk paint company and outdoor oil from general finishes.
  18. Yeah That's my go to brand now just because it's not terribly expensive. Not sure if it's available in Australia though. Interesting never heard the cold storage part. I struggle remembering to just put the cap on.
  19. I've used a few different ca glues and they all kinda seem the same to me. Other than the obvious consistency differences. My only thought is that some of the more expensive brands seem to last longer after you open them. I think the good brands have better bottle designs which is what makes the biggest difference. The glue is probably all the same.
  20. I have the LN 140 as well and it's my go to for any tenon work. Cleaning up tenon cheeks with it offers a good smooth cut and doesn't blow out the back side like a strait cut plane will. I think for rabbets and tenon cheeks this is a far better plane than a shoulder plane as it's easier to hold this guy flat. Shoulder planes get unstable unless you are working on the shoulder of a tenon. For shoulder work i still have excellent results just using a sharp chisel. Using a plane like this for rabbets doesn't seem like it's best use. It will work ok for larger rabbets but for small ones it's a lot of plane hanging over the edge. Unless someone works with a lot of wide rabbets i don't see the point in getting the alternate skew. Pick the skew that works with your dominant hand and that's the plane you will almost always use. For sharpening i just free hand the iron. It needs to be sharp but it's not a smoothing plane and almost every surface it's cutting will be glued on or covered with something.
  21. You could do butt hinges and mortise them in so most is hidden. Then all you'll see is the barrel which i s what i was originally thinking you were doing. They would look like this. Not my project i just pulled it from the internet.
  22. I don't think that using brushed handles and polished hinges is a bad thing. The hinges will not be very visible and finding a brushed variety might be difficult. On the other hand you may be able to find polished hardware but that look may not be what you desire. If you've purchased the hardware already you can always try it out and change the handle hardware if you don't like it. It's harder to change hinges but i think finding brushed variety will be harder.... but I've never looked.
  23. I think the advice to start building and figure out where your holes are is good advice. One person may rely heavily on a bad saw, while others will swear by a track with a multi function table. Some people rely heavily on miter saws. Project ideas and possibly some instruction/plans will help you on your way to figure out what to do next. Below are some of the things that I find is missing from your list. Band saw , I operate very band saw heavy as it does all of my rip cuts, resawing, and curve cuts. My table saw isn't used nearly as much as other peoples. A router table is also a good addition and has lots of utility. I personally use the Porter Cable 890 series (i bought 2 895PKs) and mounted a fixed base under a home made table. It works great and is very cheap compared to the super fancy tables out there. My fence is MDF.
  24. Epoxy is going to create a very thick plastic looking layer. Assuming an interior project most woodworkers don't like that sort of look and prefer a closer to the surface finish. As far as adding more protection, I'm inclined to say generally not. For epoxy applications where strength increase is desired fiberglass is generally applied with the epoxy for strength and then top coated with a marine or UV resistant finish. Epoxy would add some strength but with out the fiberglass a thin layer of epoxy won't add much strength compared to a thick layer of poly. With pine I've had luck with some thick brush on poly adding enough strength to withstand light daily use. If you want something to last a hardwood should be used. There is little that can be applied to a surface that will compensate for a weak substrate. The applications that can be added are going to be more expensive than the proper substrate.
  25. Excellent work. I really like the style you went for with this project, it should last a long time.