Chestnut

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Everything posted by Chestnut

  1. My opinion is there is a lot of trouble with a permanent DC too early in some one's woodworking hobby. You don't really know what your shop will look like or how the work flow will work with your space. You have a miter saw and table saw in the middle of your shop and to design dust collection around that is going to be difficult and I guarantee that setup will change which will require ducting changes. I jokingly said not that long ago that i wouldn't relocate for a 100% pay raise, because i already had my dust collection system setup and operating well and it'd be too much work to do it again. A good option is to use a mobile collector that you may not move around but you will use flex hose to move from machine to machine. It keeps the DC system flexible and adaptable to shop changes. That Oneida mobile unit will cover single machine collection from almost every woodworking machine with the exception of CNC or possible a large 2 port drum sander. This will allow your shop to evolve as you add machines or change them around to suit a better layout. With a basement shop you have to work around more hurdles than some others have to deal with. E.G. stairs, HVAC, plumbing, Electrical, odd foundation layout. You may have these you may not but these things aren't typically present in most garage shops or custom built outbuildings. Once you get setup a 1.5 HP collector will work well with a duct setup. A 6" main with short 4" drops will be well suited to that collector. You will need to have a well sealed system (which is easy to achieve) that utilizes blast gates at each tool that you open and close as necessary. The big clear--vue collectors and Oneida pro collectors are overkill for hobby shops that only have 1 person working in them, 1 person can only use 1 tool at a time. At most any 1 tool needs is 600-750 cfm. Most of those big collectors will not operate efficiently collecting from only 1 tool. Cyclones need a minimum airflow to properly separate dust from the air and if there isn't enough it will prematurely pack dust into your filter causing problems. There are caveats to this but they are complicated, very complicated.
  2. That depends on the source of the hardwood to begin with. If the wood was milled by them and dried questionably there is a lot of risk so I'd pay very little. If they had an invoice that showed the wood was purchased from the dealer you typically buy from a year previous it'd be a lot easier to make the purchase at only a slight discount. Also depends on if they are selling full pieces or shorts. I bought some lumber full price because they included a large box of shorts basically for free. All said and done it was about a 25% discount. Air dried questionable Cletus lumber ~$1 a BF (there is a lot of risk here, bugs defects etc.) KD questionable lumber ~40% retail If they can provide a source and it's reputable 10-25% off retail depending on condition. Distance I'll drive is not a good gauge as i often piggy back pickups with work trips etc. I'll generally not drive any further than I have to go for regular lumber trip. The best deals are a hobbyist that is quitting and is just trying to dump all his lumber.
  3. My style reference post is really lacking on the Danish handcrafted MCM. I've really started to appreciate it now that I'm seeing a lot of makers doing it wrong (in my opinion). If any one has suggestions place them anywhere and I'll try and incorporate them into the post. My big trouble with all the current makers and their designs is everything is to heavy. What i mean but that is all the members are twice as wide as they need to be which gives all the pieces a very heavy and bulky look. A&C can be very delicate furniture if proportions are observed and the heavy look is removed. I've been pushing this lately and have been quite happy with the result. There has also been a lot of MCM furniture that is ruined with a very heavy look. Some renditions of the Hank Chair are a good example of using members that are just too wide IMO. Jory Bringham does both a good job at making delicate looking pieces but at the same time is the worst offender for bulky furniture that could be delicate. So far I have liked some of the furniture from Jens Risom, Hans Wagner, Finn Juhl. I agree with the older styles being far to ornate. Though it does make sense why those styles are ornate. They basically existed to fluff the egos of the Aristocracy. The ornamentation is heavy to try and install a feel and look of extravagant wealth. This may be a bit harsh but it's my opinion on the matter. It's also similar to how i view some of the Greene and Greene furniture. Bmac I think you'd appreciate Hans Wagner. He appears to do a lot of chair work. It's not all woodworking but they are chairs and I know you love chairs. I find irony in that by the way. You spend a lot of time standing to make something that you sit on but in order to make more seating you have to be standing. At what point does your drive to create seating conflict with your desire to be seated?
  4. Thanks for sharing this. I've been wondering how long it was going to be until Harvy started with more offerings in the US. Now to see how their quality turns out. I'm assuming it's goign to be good as this is the company that bought Bridge City.
  5. Not to take a tangent but older firearms are awesome. My deer hunting rifle for the first 10 years i hunted was a mauser made in 1895. It was and still is a great rifle. I wanted a scope though so I eventually got something newer. 200y shots with a deer on the run through open sights gets tricky. To try and keep things somewhat on topic the fan inlays look awesome. I really need to try inlay one of these days. Unfortunately all of my ideas are complicated. I've also been following this stringing stuff and i still have zero idea how you accomplish it. It just looks like black magic to me.
  6. Watch out for coop he is actually wise and knowledgeable but hides it behind a good sense of humor and wry wit.
  7. These as self cleaning so the debrisgets pushed out when they are closed. Otherwise yes gates need some flow leaking to work right. Combination. An inconvenient blast gate will get left open don't ask me how i know . Mine seal pretty dang well. If they hiss i sure can't hear it over the collector. With hearing protection on i can't even tell if the dc is on our not let alone a hissing gate.
  8. Lee valley self cleaning. Best blast gate for the money of the many I've tried. https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/workshop/dust-collection/parts-and-accessories/51506-self-cleaning-blast-gates they fit inside SDR35 pvc quite nicely.
  9. I hate to recommend this because of it's cost but this system really is as good as it gets for a portable DC that you switch between tools. https://www.rockler.com/rockler-dust-right-quick-change-multi-port-tool-set Additional 4" ports if you need them https://www.rockler.com/dust-right-4-tool-ports More accessories and hoses can be found here. https://www.rockler.com/power-tools/dust-collection/dust-collection-fittings If it makes to feel better getting over charged (imo) rockler does do a good job sponsoring woodworkers that make free content on youtube. Their staff is very helpful as well. I have a few stores near by but I assume it's much the same if you have to call or email for customer service.
  10. Balancing cost size and portability (https://www.oneida-air.com/dust-collectors/1-5-hp-mini-gorilla-cyclone-dust-collector) I really feel the dust gorilla meets the categories. It won't be a forever dust collector. You'll get to a point when you'll need something better and you'll know it when that happens. The Oneida collector is not that much more than the Grizzly that you linked with 1 HUGE difference a HEPA filter. You've mentioned that your in a basement which means dust is probably a factor (also your pictures show immaculately clean work spaces). The grizly collector has a 1 micron filter. That's going to leave a fine film on every surface when you use it. I have an Oneida collector in my shop and their filters are good (as are wyn and clear vue but they don't offer the gorilla i liked above). I take that back the dust gorilla really could be the last collector you ever buy. It'd probably meet my needs if I had a smaller shop.
  11. If you work a lot with surface lumber you could easily get away with just a jointer. This will get edges strait which will help for keeping things square and panels flat. Jointer: A simple 6" jointer like (https://www.grizzly.com/products/Grizzly-6-x-48-Jointer-with-Cabinet-Stand/G0814) or (https://www.grizzly.com/products/Grizzly-6-x-46-Jointer-w-Spiral-Cutterhead/G0452Z) would do the job quite well. Helical head will solve the blade replacement hassle but comes with the extra cost. They can be easily sold or bought used if the time comes to upgrade. Planer, DW735x hands down best planer for the money. I wouldn't bother getting anything different unless your milling for own lumber and have to run 400-500 BF through your planer every year, which is a LOT of wood. Dust collector: I'm biased on this. I'd either get the HF unit (https://www.harborfreight.com/2-hp-industrial-5-micron-dust-collector-97869.html) or go all out and get a clear vue (https://www.clearvuecyclones.com/cyclone-bundles/66-cv1800-lh-1p-cyclone-bundle-with-filters.html). I personally don't put much stock in the middle ground. If middle ground is what you seek see below. The unit you linked has a 1 micron filter so it's not going to filter very well and the short cyclone won't separate very well. For under $1,000 you could get the HF unit and a super dust deputy (https://www.oneida-air.com/dust-deputy/dust-collector-kits/super-dust-deputy-5-inch-cyclone-separator),a wyn filter (https://wynnenv.com/products-page/cyclone-filter-pricing/), rikon impeller (https://www.rikonparts.com/product/60-200) and make your own 2 stage that would probably function as good or better. Subtotal cost $709 + tax and shipping. You'll need a dust bin, you could use a metal trash can or 35-55 gallon drum or even a fiber drum. Some odds and ends and a bit of ingenuity are also required. The biggest benefit is an inexpensive unit that can be very flexible for low ceilings. If you prefer to throw money at the problem, which i don't advise but I do understand, the Oneida supercell is a compelling option.
  12. First, that's an awesome shop. Clean organized with a good amount of space. Mobile tools are always good, even if they don't move ever (like mine) it's still helpful when that setscrew falls out on a pulley or some maintenance needs to be done. There are mixed reviews on grizzly tools but over all i look at them as a mediocre tool that gets good support from it's company. This is better than a good tool that receives poor support. It sucks when a problem happens but if the company takes care of you it makes life a lot easier. I had that table saw for a long time. Is it a good saw, no not really but it gets the job done. Personally for your setup I'd fill holes in a tool lineup before you start replacing tools. Look at the types of projects you complete, or the types of projects you want to complete and fill in your gaps that way. From a 500 foot view i see you don't have a jointer or planer. A jointer and planer will make all the difference in the world to keeping projects strait and square. Looking back i don't know how I ever managed making the things I did with out them. If i had to choose between [ dewalt job site saw, jointer, planer] and [ cabinet saw and no jointer and no planer] I'd take the job site saw every single time. (all of my core stock ripping is done on my bandsaw... table saw is for crosscuts, daddos, and tenons) Dust collection gets more important once a jointer and planer is added. My thoughts on DC are get the harbor freight DC and either run it as is and save for a big unit, or mod the HF dc into a 2 stage unit. I planned to mod my old HF DC to a two stage unit but found out It wouldn't save me a ton of money and would take a lot of time and effort that I didn't really want to do. The best part of the HF DC is they can be found used for cheap or if bought new can be sold easily and recover a good potion (60%-70%) of the initial cost. Those short cyclones don't separate well and honestly I'd recommend getting a single stage unit with a bag and save all the extra money. The cyclone is so small they don't end up accomplishing much.
  13. You can get colored leather, some of the aniline dyed leather is quite color fast and should hold it's color well over time. My thought is that fabric is the better choice, though this would probably depend on the surroundings. The style and era of furniture is well suited to a fabric.
  14. Welcome! I don't think it's possible to as too many questions. The best answers come from posts that are explained well and provide pictures/drawings. There is a lot of good information here. These guys are generally responsible for most of what I know.
  15. I have some small dmt diamond sharpening plates. If i need my cuts to be nice and crisp I'll lap my old tired bit with a couple strokes on the flat side and it makes a world of difference. If there is backwards grain I'll also take the last light cut in a climb orientation. I guess i only do this if the piece is large enough to control. If it's a small piece i try and orient the grain so I'm never cutting against the grain.
  16. My opinion is have the upholstery frame sit only 1/4" at most below the frame. It's not very comfortable when the cushion compresses and you feel the hard wooden edge on the back of your leg. This is going to depend on the thickness of the upholstery though. The nice part is if you install it lower you can always shim the upholstery frame up but you can't really shim it down. I've shimmed up the upholstery frame on my Morris chairs already to get a better fit than i originally built.
  17. I had to buy mine worth every penny. Beretta knows how to make a shotgun....
  18. Harbor Freight has good jacks. I've used one of their 1.5 Ton low profile jacks for many years now. Non of my vehicles weight enough to even get close to maxing out the jack. I also appreciated the low profile part as my car doesn't have much space underneath. The other part about the one I use that I like is that it weighs 33 lbs so i can easily toss it in my pickup and take it with me.
  19. So with the prototype #3 complete I've ferreted out most of the potential issues that I think I'm going to have with the project. Step 1 was stock selection. I dug through the 6/4 stock I bought to make the chairs. For the rear legs i wanted close to rift sawn stock that had a swoop in the grain that would match the bend of the rear legs. I was able to get 8-9 of the legs with perfect grain. I don't want to be bee too picky as they are a use chair not a show chair. I used my 1/4" thick template to outline blanks. This example is probably the worst grain that I had for the legs. Most of the other are tighter and more strait. I cut the outside off first. After I got the legs to this point I took them to the jointer to flatten 1 side. After I flattened the 1 side I cut each blank out of the stock. I operated this way because i wanted the cuts to be as strait as possible between the blanks to minimize waste. Cutting 1 leg out of a 5" wide by 42" long piece of lumber is wasteful. I can nest them and get 3 pieces out of a 7" wide board. The other benefit is if the grain is running in a good direction I can get good grain and color match and preserve more of the preferable rift sawn grain. This does create a HUGE issue. Joinery reference surfaces are non existent on 2 sides now. This is solved by marking the center point of the rails and using a routing sled to finalize the shape of the legs. I believe mar does the rear legs from blanks the way he does in the dining chair series to make it easier to maintain the joinery reference surfaces. I feel maintaining that surface is unimportant because the next steps with the legs will reestablish good joinery surfaces. After each leg is liberated from the main stock, they are planed so the top face is made parallel to the jointed face. I planed after separating them because I had my layout lines marked. Also the wider stock was easier to control on the jointer but is less important on the planer. With the blanks planed to thickness I mounted them into my template sled for shaping. The sled has 2 sides. The first side takes the rough blank and allows me to position it to set the first reference edge. I have a reference mark on the sled that provides me the center line for the chair side rails. This allows me to position the blank on the opposite side of the sled. On the opposite side the previously routed edge references the fence, in this case it's the block that hold the toggle clamps, and allows the blank to be shaped to exact size. For reference the sled is explained here (https://www.woodtalkonline.com/topic/30442-dining-chairs/?do=findComment&comment=401609). For this round I only managed to get 1 side of the rear legs done. From the off cuts shown in picture #2, I was able to get at least 1 front leg and in some cases 2. Because the stock contained a lot of rift grain the front legs generally have minimal grain runout and have nice strait grain. My waste from off of this is quite minimal as a result. This waste will be used as well to make some turning blanks. I think I'm going to use it to experiment with some really large Celtic knots. I'm goign to build the chairs from the back rest forward. I will join the rear legs together first. Second the front legs will be attached to the rear legs with the side rails. I will then grab dimensions for the front rail and will assemble the side rails, front rail, and front legs all at once. With the construction going this way I'll need to have the back rail and headrest rail cut out first. I made a routing sled for the crest rails as well. This one sucked to use a lot. Because it was so small i had a lot of catches and it scared the crap out of me too many times for my liking. I also cut out the rear and side rails. This will rest until I need them. Then i will cut them closer to final dimensions and template route them as well. More to come here.
  20. I had thought about that. The trouble is, those are the types of things that Megan doesn't like. She would want all chairs to bet the same.
  21. Dados don't generally need to be very deep to provide strength. If you glue them the glue is the larger strength aspect with the dado secondary. I read a few articles that did testing on bottoms mounted in dados and they determined that the deeper the dado the weaker the joint. The side, be it plywood or solid wood, ended up failing first. In practicality a 1/8" deep dado is a good balance shallower than that it's difficult to cut the drawer bottom precise enough deeper than that makes construction easier at the cost of strength. I wouldn't worry a ton until your dado is over 1/3 to 1/2 the thickness of your side. Spline jig. I made one that fits many needs. I made basically a tall fence that slips over my table saw fence. This will allow me to cut tenons and other vertical cuts as well as cutting splines. For one random spline I'll just clamp the work piece strait to the board. If I'm cutting multiple I will use screws and attach blocks to the face to act as work holding (along with clamps for safety). You can probably see some screw holes in this next picture. I made it in a few min and it's lasted me many years already.
  22. Yeah it's complicated in thought but easy in practice. Have the angle set (can be any angle really) and a stop to hit the same distance each time. Then it's cut, fill, rotate 90 degrees. thinking about it more and more you could do a 6 sided blank and have 6 inserts or 5 sided ect ect and the variations could be interesting and fun to play with. It's pretty flexible. Adjusting the stop location for half the cuts may lead to an interesting effect as well. The options really are limitless. These are things I've thought about playing with since i posted this.
  23. I've been eating dinner in the strait back prototype the last few days and while the heavy curve is more comfortable It's not really noticeably so. The difference isn't really enough to warrant the extra effort. It'd be fun to maybe do 1 or 2 of them but trying to sell that to Megan would be difficult. Everything has to be the same for her and having 2 drastically different chairs our of 6 would bother her. If i wanted to cut out the curve instead of laminate I'd need to get 12/4 cherry (10/4 would be enough but no one carries that around here, I've looked) and I'd have to order at least $500 worth. The cost isn't the big thing really it's the availability and the waste. Even If I milled my own I'd still look for ways to efficiently use the wood.
  24. I've used III for some out door bird feeders and it holds up well. 2 did not however. The glue weakened and separated.
  25. It's making my head spin as well, trouble is I have to make it through these chairs or else the constant jabs from the folks on here would drive me crazy . I have been spending the better part of the last 3 months trying to figure it out. I've been doing so as I work on other projects but the difficulties with these chairs have been at the front of my mind.