Chestnut

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Everything posted by Chestnut

  1. https://system.na3.netsuite.com/core/media/media.nl?id=732630&c=860860&h=6df3e70c3e02098ab5da&_xt=.pdf scroll down to page 52. Motor has an overheat protection in it that resets automatically.
  2. I'd not mess with a dolly period. I'd find someone else that could donate 2 min and carry it 2 pole stretcher style. I've moved my saw this way multiple times and imo it's the only way. Each person carries about 100 lbs. Going down stairs put the stronger person on the bottom as they will support a bit more weight due to the angle. I attached the 2x4s with construction screws and washers. If it needs any more clarity see below.
  3. I guess i don't know what they are spraying and what their aesthetic requirements are. What i can say is that I can defiantly get an end product that lays flat and covers well. WB finishes are different there is no way around that. I can't say that one looks better than another because it comes down to seeing the final result. Some people think that walnut looks better than cherry or maple but if the end result I desire is light in color obviously walnut isn't going to work. As a refresher if it's not known. WB doesn't yellow it just coats and has a close to colorless appearance or almost a blue appearance. OB has a very yellowing warming effect. Ways to manage this are to use a warming WB poly like General Finishes Endurovar or Minwax Oil Modified Polyurethane. The oil modified products are expensive so i tend to spray 1 coat of them and then top them with another WB poly. Another way is to spray a barrier coat of de-waxed shellac which will give some additional ambering. For oil based i tend to need more coats than the WB equivalent so water based saves me coats though i wipe on OB poly so it may not be a fair comparison. I tend to get a far better surface finish on WB as the finish is dry so quickly there is little to no time for dust to settle on the finish.
  4. This is amazing! I know you like your pieces to hint at the ability to serve a use but I'd be interested in what you came up with if you threw function out the window and just went for showy.
  5. I've sprayed a fair bit of WB poly. I'd raise the grain before and then been able to spray dye and all the coats of finish in 1 day. I think oil based stuff takes a lot longer. For a big job i might even use the HVLP to spray water to raise the grain. It would give me practice spraying the finish and If i did it right would allow me to wet the surface well and not have to wipe on or off anything. There is always goign to be 1 extra sanding step though but it usually goes fast.
  6. Chestnut

    Wood?

    Cedar cypress or redwood would be mysugestions. Be aware that there is a difference in rot resistance between sap wood and heart wood on these species. You might need to be picky on material selection and make sure to only use boards that are all heart wood.
  7. Coop that's amazing! I"m not surprised to see this caliber of work from you but i'm surprised that you don't see it as being as good as it is. I think the cherry is beautiful. A walnut one would be awesome, I don't want to say you should make it but based off what i see here you won't fail.
  8. I'd use a bandsaw with as thin of blade as you can get. I'd make the cut with a resaw king blade not clean up either side and glue it back together and i'd bet you'd have a hard time finding the sea. Board selection is critical as well. Some grain patterns no matter the thickness the material removed will look disrupted.
  9. I haven't worked on a project that requires them yet but soon. I'm going to make a handtool cabinet based off of Matt Cremona's guild design just like the couple current builds on here. My narrowest chisel before this was an 8mm i think so fairly wide. It was also fairly thick so yeah. I could probably have made it work but i didn't want to. I wanted a set of 3 nice Japanese chisels and if i was going to do it i might as well get the dovetail profile. I can confirm what Derek said about the white steel on these chisels they take an edge that is unlike anything in my shop. Other than maybe the old O1 steels but they go dull quite fast.
  10. Goober I'm sorry to hear about your injury but i appreciate that you shared it with us. It's not always easy to share mistakes like that but if it helps one person to be more careful it might making sharing something like that worth it. It's reminded me to be more careful so thank you. I wish you a speedy recovery.
  11. Movie reference. Big daddy with Adam Sandler.
  12. Cherry and walnut go together like lamb and tuna fish.
  13. I send out anything carbide to be sharpened. If it's tool steel of HSS I'd sharpen it myself. Steel is better to stay on top of and keep the edge razor sharp. If you don't damage the edges and stay on top of things a 1,000 & 6,000 grit stone is all you'd need with a strop for that final edge. There are a lot of schools of thought on sharpening and none of them are wrong. There are a lot of jigs for sharpening out there. Most of them work great. Depending on where you are located, it's possible there are woodworking groups that will put on presentations and hands on how-to classes. Sharpening is usually covered a few times a year around here.
  14. I have a small compressor that is rated for continuous duty would adding a larger air cylinder to the system help? I know the air compressor can only flow so much but i was thinking a larger tank might even things out enough.
  15. I don't know anything about the finish you are using but I'd pare the droplet off with a sharp chisel, sand the area flat, scuff the entire object and give it a light coat being careful not to do this again. When i finish the game boards i make (pictured below) I spray finish in the holes witch leaves a raised area around them. I let the poly dry and then sand it flat with 400 grit. I do a single coat on top of that.
  16. Welcome looks like a good solid table.
  17. Well I've done enough projects that very little of what i do is new so that helps the pace huge. I'd say i put maybe 35 hours of work into the whole thing. That may be a high estimate because i don't really track my time on such things. I also usually work on a couple projects at once to minimize wasting time while glue dries.
  18. Lol, the mental image of watching a guy swinging away trying to split a log that just won't yield is entertaining.
  19. It's mounted to the wall through the back to studs. That was a pain. The studs were steel and the sheetrock was 2 layers of 5/8" fire so finding the studs was difficult. I cut the miters are my table saw with my cross cut sled. With a little testing i'm sure i could have done it with the track saw as well.
  20. Chestnut

    HVLP Dye

    It's an interior only finish so no. General does make outdoor oil which i've used and is ok they also make outdoor 450.
  21. Chestnut

    HVLP Dye

    I've used it on the aggravation game boards that i make and it holds up to abuse well. The boards get slid around on tables transported in cars and used at campsites. It's a beautiful finish that is only tarnished by it's price tag. But i don't use it on them unless they are for me as i only make about $15 per board for a few hours of work.
  22. I recently had a friend request to have a media console made. He moved in to a hip condo downtown that was a remodeled space in some factory or warehouse. I asked him what style he wanted he sent me a picture we decided on dimensions and i started building. I got to pick the wood. Beings that i didn't really care to do oak and stain and light wasn't what he desired cherry was the obvious choice. I didn't take many pictures of the construction because it was very similar to the drawer system i made for my closer but I thought the end result would be appreciated. In the following picture you can see the completed case. I used 1/2" Cherry procore ply. It had a center core of fir surrounded by 2 mdf cores that had the cherry veneer on top. I picked up the ply off craig's list for a mere $35 a sheet. I used some home sawn edge banding to make the front edges. The top corners were mitered. It was my first time doing a long miter like that and i'm quite happy with the result. It was the biggest source of stress for the project. For ease of construction the back was 3 pieces and i glued everything together starting from 1 side to the other. Planning everything was tricky and fun. The holes on the bottom are for fans to cool the central cabinet. He didn't want any shelves. The dimensions of the sides are 20" x 20" x 12.5" deep. The only other thing that my friend insisted on was that the front had to have continuous grain. He originally thought plywood but my first thought jumped to how I would edge plywood and make that look good. My 2nd thought was where i'd get 3/4" ply beings that the one yard that i knew carried it had closed. I found another yard but learned that it would be cheaper to do solid wood. Luckily i knew of some 10.5" wide cherry boards that were just what the doctor ordered. I found some nifty brushed aluminum and to maintain the clean lines mortised them into the door. Here is a shot that shows the side and the top highlighting the most important miter. This is the first thing you'll see walking into the condo from the front door. Because of the lenght i wasn't able to do a waterfall edge :(. He wanted it to be 7' long and 20" tall so ..... that was a missed opertunity. And i was holding what i think is the best for last. The continuous grain front. To make sure that i maintained the continuous grain but also didn't short my self on material i made the center doors as 1 unit and cut the whole thing an inch long. I dind't know how the kerf was going to shake out and didn't want to take risks. Luckily i noticed that there was some strain grain between doors 3 and 4 if you number left to right that would allow me to loose at least an inch if needed with out being noticeable. So i did just that. Other wise the other doors are separated by a kerf width. I don't think the picture does it justice so if it seems life it falls short it may just be the crappy camera phone picture. I'll someday get a better one with the TV in place for scale. I also added in some cable management as well as a permanently mounted power strip that is wired in place. I don't really like making money off my friends but this one made me a good chunk. I priced fair but scored some cheep material.
  23. Chestnut

    HVLP Dye

    I snapped a few pictures of the completed board today in the sunshine for those that are interested in the final result. The dye looks very purple in direct sunlight but more brown in shadded areas.
  24. This is the one you accelerated the aging look on right? How long was it allowed to dry between aging the cherry and applying the poly?