Chestnut

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Everything posted by Chestnut

  1. I think a 3d printer has a lot of capabilities for shop stuff, though I'm not sure that i like leaning heavily on stolen ideas. It to a point is defeating the point of a patent. As pointed out previously some of the specialized tools do represent a bargain especially when you consider the intellectual property that the tool represents. There are things that i want to make that currently i can't think of a way to make them with standard wood working tools. 3 dimensional molds come to mind for bent lamination. I could certainly eventually get there with my current tools but there are some complex shapes that would be much faster done with a digital method. I do agree that 3D printing has a HUGE advantage of it being an additive process instead of a subtraction process. This allows for more efficient use of materials. In a space where some hardwoods are extremely expensive utilizing a CNC may cost more in material lost to waste than anything else. Also a good point is that you get to set it and come back when it's done. Your time isn't hands on for the duration of the manufacturing process. Though again it shifts time from shop work to screen work.... nothing wrong with that. I completely agree I have the KM-2 and it's awesome in use. Have i used it a ton, no, but when i need an exact width dado the thing is fast and fool proof. Also unnecessary i can often nail a 1 off dado pretty fast but batching is where it shines.
  2. I think the slab craze was long in the tooth a few years ago. Now it's just getting ridiculous. Next trend is MCM furniture. I've been seeing it a lot more places the last few years.
  3. I think the center divider will look a lot better with drawers in place. The shelves are a bit different as they won't have something like a drawer front right next to them.
  4. I find it somewhat ironic that they heavily regulate things that are kinda of dangerous but then deregulate things that are obviously dangerous like drugs and cigarettes are still legal.... I was of the impression that Ethyl Alcohol or Ethanol in it's pure form is a VOC but isn't necessarily a harmful one. Inhailing it's vapor causes and effect very similar to that of drinking it aka it makes you drunk. Though I'm the impact on longs for long term exposure wasn't listed. It was noted that in rats long term exposure caused higher addition like behaviors when compared to consumption. From my research it's not the long term effect they are concerned with but the short term where people get too drunk to fast and poison them selves.... To do this you needed to heat the alcohol and the heat from the steam is what causes the reported lung damage. I'm not pointing this out to make it seem like it's safe I'd still use necessary PPE. I digress... I wonder if you'd get in trouble if i sent you some in an unmarked container via mail? I'll write camp stove fuel on it or something...
  5. Subtle but MUCH MUCH better. Beautiful work makes me want one.
  6. Oh no offense taken i went through probably 250 BF of cherry in the last year. I'd only object if you called me king of pallet wood or something. Though pallets do make awesome fires.
  7. If the inside of that door had match after the resaw, i think that would have made for a very interesting pair of door panels. Throughout the whole project might be a bit much but using it in a door panel or for slats or accent pieces would be really cool. A lot of times I end up having to treat it like a defect and turning it in or removing it which is unfortunate. Until you all pointed it out i never thought about how much cherry i use. It's just so pretty though.
  8. Man that is a beautiful wall cabinet. I love the look of that cherry. I also think the thinner shelves would probably look better now that you say something. It might be worth the effort to think them out now. For me after it goes in service i never come back and correct anything. I just live with it. Do you like the look of the little resin pockets? If i had a good amount of boards with it, I think it could be incorporated into a project to give a cool effect.
  9. Though this is pointless, it makes an interesting conversation, I hope that you are able to discuss with out taking offense to what I've said. I've honestly almost deleted everything I've written 5 times because there is no positive outcome. Both sides have their opinions and they appear to be fanatical about them. I hope that you can read this with out it seeming like I'm trying to change your opinion. I"m not. If anything I'm trying to convey the opinions of the other side so that in the future you don't look at those that are opposed to CNC as being stubborn curmudgeons. People have different motivations, complicated motivations, and they may not be the best at conveying those complicated motivations and therefore get misunderstood. People also have different experience levels and talent levels that leave an unequal playing field. Sooo... I agree to a point. The machine will always beat me if it's set up before I start. From rough board to simple curve though I'm going to win every time, so respectfully i disagree. I've done production drafting for a long time and it's not as simple as just thinking about a design and it magically appears on the computer. A well thought out design takes time to draft then have the tool paths created. That doesn't just magically happen. For one of a kind parts that's a LOT of computer work that you are just glossing over. Even if it's 15 min for a simple arch in the bottom of an apron. Using hand tools I'd be done and on to the next part. Their big benefit is in complicated shapes. The problem is I don't like complicated shapes. Heavily ornamented furniture seems cheap and garish to me. Maybe it's because I'm subconsciously aware that it was just done with a machine? I also haven't seen much work off a CNC that doesn't scream machine made. Most of the designs are very fake and lack that organic feel to them, this is probably lack of experience. The thing that I've seen little of, is a designer that takes a CNC and does something with it that they can't to any other way. The other trouble with digitally created stuff is if you put two identical objects next to each other, one hand made the other CNC/3D printed. I'd hail the hand made object for it's skill of craftsman ship. The other object would get a "hey that's cool" and I'd probably forget about it. This is apparent everywhere. That one of a kind misprinted babe Ruth rookie card is going to be infinitely more valuable than the millions of copies made my cracker jack. An original Van gough could be printed millions of times but the original will ALWAYS get more attention. There is a HUGE value to the digitally created stuff in getting useful items to as many people as possible but again I'm not a production shop. I like that my furniture isn't sitting in every furniture store across the world nor could it ever. Does that make me pretentious, for sure it does and I'm ok with that. As far as most hobby workers are concerned a 3D printer or CNC like you are talking about is completely unattainable. The space and cost for both machine and software puts it out of the reach of most hobby woodworkers. I probably have above average income compared to most and I can't justify the cost nor space. This is most of Marc's point that he probably failed to convey. Most of his viewers want to learn woodworking. There is a small minority that are vocal about CNC but they are unfortunately a minority. He provides what his viewers want to learn. If that some day matures to CNC and 3d printing I'm sure he'd have one in his shop. The catch 22 on that is the people that want to learn it are going other places to learn it and are unlikely to demand it from Marc. I think his comments weren't eloquently chosen, but he has addressed this question MANY times.
  10. I don't do woodworking to be a production shop, I do it to get out from behind a screen and doing things with my hands. CNC and 3d printing have a draw to me but pardon my opinion but forget CAD, i hate it. 10 hours a day 5 days a week of it is enough. For one of a kind items there is a lot more learning and scrap. I don't need replicas of anything honestly. Every curved apron or item is all unique. You separate them by 5" and they are close enough that you can't tell. I can knock most of the curved and complex items faster than it'd take to power up a computer, load the tool path in the CNC and hit go. I also have a lot less waste. Too many woodworkers get bent out of shape with their parts needing to be exact replicas. The honest truth is it's not even remotely necessary. I took a 1/2" gouge out of a curved apron on one side. I cut the curve back on one side just to see if i could save it and after i was done you can't tell the difference. That said I've watched what Frank Howarth does with his CNC and if i didn't work behind a computer 10 hours a day for my job and i had the space, I'd have one.
  11. I"m trying to be helpful and supportive i feel you may have misread the comments they were intended to get information accross. My help and support is to try the stuff at home on the wood you'd like to use or have your person that is doing the work create a sample board. Different species absorb stains in different ways and amounts. Room temperature, the grit you sand to, how much you saturate the wood all has an effect. The store displays will get you in the ballpark as to over all color tone, either red, brown, golden ,ect. After that you have to do tests. To get darker colors stop sanding at lower grits like 80 or 100. To get lighter colors sand to a higher grit like 150 or 220, if that's not enough a sanding sealer, or wood conditioner will help the wood absorb less stain. This applies across the board for all stains, dyes, or wood tinting processes. If minwax doesn't have the color you like Varathane makes stains, General Finishes makes stains, as well as many others. There are also tinted products like Danish oil. Danish oil applies a bit differently than a stain but the end result is generally the same. I've stained a lot of pine and the best way to get an exact color you are looking for is trial and error.
  12. The point i was trying to higlight was the white in the closet on the walls and shelves not the door. The door is no stain just poly. Over many many years poly will darken as will the wood underneath to a much more amber color. The first picture could be anything. They have a display at most stores of what the stains look like on various woods i suggest going there and viewing the samples. Pictures online are not accurate as they tend to get manipulated as well as our monitors are NOT color accurate. So what you see on your screen is different than what i see on mine. It's also not what we'd both see in reality. If you want to split hairs over exact colors the ONLY way to get it accurate is test on scraps from the actual project.
  13. If you are trying to match from a picture from the internet you have no idea how much photo editing they did that will modify the colors beyond what is possible to recreate. Provincial from minwax is similar to the first picture. I'd stick with a single color so in the future correcting any issues will be easy. If you desire a darker color sand to a rougher grit like 100 or 80 even. Sanding to a higher grit will block absorption. 2nd picture almost looks like a watered down white pain that was applied similar to how a wood stain would be applied. After it dries sand lightly with 320 grit to even things out a bit. See below for results.
  14. I got the whole thing in my basement and set up. It was way more of a pain to get setup than i thought it was going to be. Starting off my old planer sat on the table i made a while back for my drum sander. I made it in a few parts with the foresight that I'd get a stationary planer eventually. I just had to trim some ply and remove some nails and the extra portion came off. I had a big pile of scraps here that i meant to make into domino stock so i got that out of the way to reduce some clutter. I have long strips that i need to finesse the fit a bit more on and then cut to lengths for use. Once i got it set up and the table modified I realized there was going to be a conflict with my existing table and drum sander. So i made a 6" tall platform for the planer to sit on. There is no way that this will be the final place for the planer. For now it works but i foresee issues with how tall it is and it's location. I'll probably at some point put it back on the floor and modify how and where the drum sander sits. I may even mount the drum sander above the planer with those fancy planer brackets that Marc and Andy designed (though i may make my own).
  15. Ahh this makes more sense now. So for this you have to keep in mind allowable tolerances. For outdoor stuff like this the joinery is probably designed in such a way to help prevent the boards from distorting too much or in a way that will cause structural failure. Thinking about this on terms that it's a furniture project is goign to cause you to chase your tail. I realize it can be done to tolerances for a furniture project but that's going to take a lot of time and the first massive humidity swing is goign to undo a lot of that hard work no matter if the timbers are kiln dried or otherwise. Where to get this stuff. Find a local sawmill and give him what you are looking for. They'll probably be able to saw some beams to specs. The guy you linked specifically stated he was making the floor with green to semi dry wood so it only contracts. This way all you have to do is fill in the gaps instead of deal with possible blowouts. That guy does not look Korean or is it just me? This seems like a lot of work for an outdoor project that will eventually rot. Is it goign to be covered?
  16. The hook and lop pad is the one wear item that might not necessarily be available from a 3rd party. As far as paper any H&L 5" disc would work as look as the H&L doesn't wear out. Seeing as how popular the item appears to be in the US I'd bet they will carry support for the product for a while.
  17. Humm, i think you need to show us plans, take pictures, and explain this in detail preferable in a journal documenting the steps as you go.... . I am interested now hope you share some pictures when you are done at least.
  18. I just realized i bougt mine 9 months ago and haven't even taken it out of the box ... but i have it when i need it. I never thought about using it for paint stripping but that looks like a common use for the tool.
  19. I bought one and have yet to fire it up.... Dang that's a good price my reconditioned one was more expensive... I'm also interested to see if they replace it with something similar. This was their most unrefined tool in their lineup it doesn't surprise me that it's getting discontinued. I also wonder what the future of the accessories and paper is. Tool kinda becomes useless once that stuff wears out and can't be repurchased. Also onsale here https://www.festoolproducts.com/festool-570789-ras-115-04-e-rotary-sander-t-loc.html
  20. My previous yard that closed had some 4" and 6" beams in a hardwood species. I didn't pay much attention to them as I have no use for them. You could probably get them from a backwoods mill, but i expect the beams will crack or have some sort of defect. I don't think they would twist and distort to a pretzel but you'd probably get some distortion. Old workbenches like the Roubo were made from massive beams that were air dried and they worked out ok. Shannon Rodgers did some good instagram posts about how his lumber yard made hardwood beams. They skinned doug fir beams with 1/8" veneer to give the beam look. This is how I'd do it if i needed a large beam. Using QS material and flat sawn material you could easily get the same look. The endgrain would be the hardest thing to mask.
  21. IIRC the heartwood of sweetgum is quite pretty looking in my opinion. The downside to the wood is that it is kinda soft like poplar or a good SYP. If you can get it dry i think the wood is a good choice. It looks like it responds well to steam bending from my research and another upside is it's lightweight.
  22. Nice work i like the look of this. I also like the long overhangs, though they would instantly get vetoed in my household.
  23. Screw drivers with the hex part right below the handle are super useful. Push down with your hand and use a wrench to get torque. That said these are the only screw drives i use. I have like 6 of them which means if i can find one i have a #1 #2 philips, 2 sizes of flat, and 2 hex drivers. Though my impact does 95% of the driving i have 2 bits that cover the 4 major head types. I never use square drive screws. IMO they are worse than phillips for stripping so i never buy them. After i went to torx or lobe drive i exclusively use them, I've been running the same bit going on 7 years now.
  24. I saw it as well it looked awesome. After seeing the price i think it's fair.
  25. Yeah it'd go flying down the steps and through a wall. After goign through the wall it'd end up in my shop though. So silver lining there.... . I was nervous when i was using the come along and block and tackle but i knew something would have to break in order for it to fall and i doubt that rope was that weak. The yellow strap is rated for 3,000 lbs so i knew that one was good.