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Everything posted by Chestnut

  1. Brand I don't know how wax would work. Pin meters work on electrical resistance so it would depend on that. I"m sure there is information on this in turning forums or other places. But for small itmes turners seem to go with the weighing method. Weigh it until it stops losing weight.
  2. Man Cliff i wish i could tell ya something to ease the pain of a frustrating table saw. My best advice is don't do another stop gap you'll just have similar if not the same troubles. Save for your your sawstop or w/e your looking at. There are grizzly saws that you could get that would last you forever.
  3. Pinless doesn't damage the wood and it also supposedly has the ability to read into the center of the wood. Pin types are less expensive and have the ability to leave probes in the middle of a stack with wires to the edge to read lumber in the center of a stack as it dries. I have and use an electrophysics moisture meter based off suggestions i got from the forum. There are many different meters out there and i think the addage you get what you pay for runs true here.
  4. Well apparently i'm terrible at searching for things. I'll ad that to the list of things i want.
  5. I've been running with a good 4" port in the fence and it works VERY well i rarely get more then a couple chips under the table. Those over arm blade guard collector things look really nice i tried search for them but it appears that they are no longer made.
  6. Thanks, I got the fixes made yesterday before i had to leave town. Just used a chisel and some patients sizing them and CA glued it in. The grain match isn't going to be the best but they are small in obscure places so i doubt they will be noticeable. The place i buy walnut has a lot of really good stock, I'm SUPER happy with them, honestly it's harder to find strait nonfigured stuff than slightly figured.
  7. Ask for a free can of paint as well to touch up an paint issues. Also i had better customer service going though my retail store than powermatic CS. They talk directly to their reps and it seems like the sales rep can do a lot more.
  8. Finally got back to this after the new DC setup. Got the sides mortised and ready for assembly. There were plenty of challenges along that way that involved mixing up lines. Now that i have the side joinery done I'll cut the panels dry fit and then assemble. I'm thinking with all that needs to be glued that i should use epoxy. I've never used epoxy for joinery so if you have advice please share. Left Side Mess up #1 Mess up #2 and mess up #3 Fixing #1 & #2 I have some 8mm stock left over from the slats i might try and slip in there just so it's all the same walnut color. #3 was a bad one. Punched all the way through with the domino. There is only 1 fix for this and that was a new part. Thankfully i was doing all this at once so it was as easy as going back to all the set up machines and the new part took me about 15 min most of that transferring lines and plunging the domino.
  9. What Steve said but to clarify think of air like cars going down the highway. When there are only 1 or 2 cars it's easy to go 100 mph but after you get 100 cars on the highway it's harder to go 100 mph. Pentz rates 6" at like 800 cfm but i find that awfully conservative that's the velocity necessary to keep chips in the air column moving strait vertical. Using Pentz spreadsheet 6" ducting starts getting very large amounts of resistance around 1100-1200 cfm. Around that 1200 cfm the air inside the pipe is moving 75 mph. Oh also for those that are curious. I measured the amp draw with the gates in the position i had them when i was plane and i was getting close to FLA (Full load amps). I tested the amperage with the various ports open and the draw was always around 9-10. With all gates open i was pulling 12.5-13 amps which i think is slightly overloading the motor. 2 gates open i was in the 10.75-11.25 so i could reasonably work in my shop with another person some day.
  10. NP. I don't know if it calmed me but i really enjoy that iced tea. For mass produced stuff it's decent. Thanks Coop, Yeah the lack of overhead doors is nice until you have to figure out a way to carry a 600 lb jointer through your house and down stairs to your shop. I'm selling that PJ882 with the house.
  11. It has pretty much all the strengths that the slow hardener has except it stays clear. I agree. The only big downside is it's a bit more expensive but that's worth it. Some day i want to try using it for a topcoat for something that goes outside.
  12. Yeah! 207 I don't know why i'm such a fan boy of 207.
  13. No it's sitting on an HTC PM2500. I knew I'd move it around until it found a home and the it'd sit so i didn't bother getting anything stronger. It's not quite stout enough to move the machine reliably and you need the extension rail kit to make it work. Silicone because it offers a seal but isn't permanent. I can scrape the gunk off and still pull the joints apart if i need to. 6" was even a stretch my first run from the collector to the table saw wye should have really been 7". To more specifically answer the question 4" ductwork is really only big enough to flow 700 ish CFM this collector is rated closer to 1500. 6" pipe starts getting heavy losses in the 1300 CFM range. This is just from memory for way more information than you'll ever need go to Bill Pentz's website.
  14. Well that makes the decision between LN and LV a bit easier.
  15. I used 8 10' 6 IN SDR35 sewer pipes. Total from Menards was $198 Cost from a rough search for the DFW area would be closer to $280 I could only find the pipe special order through lowes. 3 6X6X6 Wye fittings at $17 total $51 1 6X6X4 Wye fitting $14 9 6" 45 degree bends $7 each total $63 3 4" 45 degree bends $2 each total $6 1 10' 4" SDR35 pipe $11 Lee Valle 4" blast gates $13 each I bought 6 to cover future tool expansion $79 Tube of silicon Sealant used 1 full one. ~$5 1 roll of foil tape $12 2 rolls of pipe strap $6 2 Pureleaf Iced teas for refreshment after frustrating pipe fittings being different sizes $3 Total: $448 + 7.5% tax = $481.6 Roughly the same in metal from Oneida in 26ga Snaplock standard would be $852 + $100 shipping (guess) = $952 So i saved roughly 50% The knowledge that Schedule 40 and SDR 35 pipe and fittings are NOT the same size. A very very large amount of frustration. For those that are curious the Oneida 3hp Pro Unit with remote, 35gal bin, stand, a reducer for the inlet, and $99 shipping was $2,610
  16. Factory blades on the 735 are disposable and decent use them up. People on here recommend blades and i'm sure they'll chime in. I can't speak for the jointer but i assume that they are good. Down the road considerations on the 735 for the Byrd head should be made. It makes the planer better in my opinion. Best part is you can save for the upgrade using some disposable blades in the mean time and waiting doesn't cost you.
  17. Like i may have said previously i got all the drops connected. I have pictures now. I took a few examples from another forum member that angled his tools slightly to get better positioning and maintain infeed and outfeed space. I ran the planer for about an hour cleaning up material I plan to use for an outfeed table. During that hour the planer still liked to vomit larger chips out both ends making a mess. This could have been because i had all 4 gates open and the pressure in the system wasn't as high as it should have been. After milling i went to check the collector and noticed that it was a bit warmer in the corner than the rest of the shop. I think i may have been feeding it too much air because the motor was warm around 95 ish degrees based off comparison to my forehead. Tonight i might pop open my electrical panel and stick an amp meter on the sub to see how much draw I'm getting. I'll then play with gates and try and use that as a measure of how much air i should be feeding the system. I still need to hook up my router table drop but i REALLY am sick of cutting PVC pipe. So for now I'll use my HF dc on the router table.
  18. Just got my 3rd RK blade in last night. 1 I broke on a screw 1 broke and was replaced by warranty the warranty blade was bad out of the box. Did i say 3rd? I meant 4th. This shouldn't speak on the quality of the blade I think i over tensioned and broke it but they very kindly still replaced it.
  19. How long has it been since you've rotated inserts? If they have worn so they are smaller they might just need a fresh edge. Just a thought.
  20. Yeah but it falls apart here. WTF IS THIS! OMG THE CAR HAS CANCER! Reminds me of a rat with those awkward growths they get. This i could get on board with this. It reminds me of the Kubota RTV without the drawbacks of the Kubota, mostly the awful hydro-static transmission that was either hugely torque anemic and really slow or so slow it wasn't moving but kinda had torque. That being said except for the read hubs being designed poorly in tandem with the terrible transmission they were built like a brick pooper.
  21. I was thinking more of a shop Tuatara, wiki it they are cool but never going to happen. This is difficult to explain so I'll draw instead. The previous owners (origional) had something specific in mind with the house and had a custom layout done up. My shop is below the laundry front entrance kitchen dining/living area. The typical plan for the area would have the dining living area a split up from the kitchen entrance level. They wanted all of that 1 level. Instead of having an 800 sq foot crawlspace they made it basement for storage. The way the garage laundry area is designed it leaves an odd space in the foundation. Despite being a bit odd the house is well designed and very well built. The kitchen dining living is 10 foot ceilings my shop has 8.5 foot ceilings and only the bedroom split area is at 8 feet.
  22. Skip the frame. Been there done that, It's a BAD idea. If you want to frame it you'd better look at a plywood top with solid wood frame. I wouldn't do plywood because the veneer is too thin and i'd be concerned about repairing it in an unlikely event that something bad happens. Even then the frame could loosen and have gaps form if not glued and joined perfectly.
  23. Just so we know where it's at so more people can go like it.
  24. Any ways. I got blast gates installed and the flex hose ran to most of my tools. This system is probably overkill for my needs but is going to keep my shop much cleaner. The suction on my bandsaw was working great until the blade decided to snap. Typically i'd get some shavings to pop out of the jointer at random places and now it stays squeaky clean. The collection at my table saw is improved as well. This shouldn't be surprising but it really is. As i was cleaning up i noticed that dumping the dust bin is NOT going to be the most fun adventure where it's located, that's a problem for future me. I'm still using 4" ports on all my tools which i know is a bottle neck but i tried to keep the 4" as short as possible. This does leave me wondering if i'm starving the cyclone for air to operate efficiently. I'm thinking of keeping at least 1 additional gate half open but i have no idea where to begin guessing how much flow is going through the system.
  25. I don't know why everyone fixates on that. I Installed an internet blade guard on the saw just to make people feel better.