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Everything posted by Chestnut

  1. Man i live in the frigid north and we don't have a fire place. I wish i had one but this house didnn't come with one and i don't ever want to move again. I feel like there has been a lot of hate on CMSs lately. I mean i agree with the points but it seems all of a sudden.
  2. Thanks everyone. I didn't know this was going to be so well received. I wet sanded the cured poly using a method marc covered somewhere. It smooths the finish out with out leaving swirl marks. It's actually not a book match it's just disguised as one. I only had 1 board so i just took care to make the grain work. I guess i did well thanks! I'm not usually either but the 2 main edges were fairly strait and it had 1 arm off the side that i obviously cut off. I went for it with the option to cut strait edges on later if i didn't like it. I ended up liking it too. Dominoes. I did 2 in the center of the shelf that were on the tight setting and glued and 2 on each outside edge that were on the wide setting and not glued. The tops of the legs are attached to the top with figure 8s.
  3. Interesting I'm excited to see where this one ends up. With you doing the making it can only go some place good.
  4. Started 4 days ago with some birch i bought from Mr Cremona. I made this table as a Christmas gift for my parents. Specifically for their cabin. I HATE their current coffee table so i figured i'd replace it and get myself out of having to buy my parents a Christmas gift. My goal was light and open. The top ended up milling down to 3/4". The board i bought to do the base ended up having some punky material so i had to go pretty bare bones there as well. I chipped the bark off and left the live edge for the rustic cabin look. I sanded the live edge and rounded the corner. It is very touchable and feels buttery smooth. Finish was a wiping poly. Wet sanded to 1000 grit.
  5. I couldn't help but to run my mouth sorry. I was thinking having a space behind all of the drawers. It'd be nice to be able to coil the excess cable and them maybe have hooks to hang it. I'm terrible with cable management i always tell myself i'm going to tidy up my cables but never do. Biggest thing i learned in a past project is account for the power adapter size those things seem small untill you try and fit them them in a small spot. They only go 1 or 2 ways.
  6. The LN is more expensive because it uses more metal. 9 lbs for LN 7.75 lbs LV. The casting mold for the LN looks more complex and it looks like there might be more parts. Those factors make it more expensive. Is it worth it .... idk. I own the LV shooter and there are no corners cut, it really is a great plane. I also am a PMV-11 fan, i feel it takes a bit sharper of an edge than A2.
  7. Awesome! I want to make one of these real bad. I didn't quite get 3" of snow but it was enough to paint the yard white.
  8. I was thinking of insulating one of the drawers with fiberglass and lead foil and putting all my wireless items in there, and then wrapping it all with an electric blanket to keep the electrical pixies warm ... The open shelf is where the switch, router, POE injector, and modem will sit. My AP will eventually end up mounted to the wall upstairs. It's currently just sitting on the floor on our highest level. Gotta run CAT6 yet but so many other things have priority. I might screw a power strip to the back for cable management though maybe with a panel to hide the cords. I'll design that on the fly we'll see what happens.
  9. Making a small stand for networking devices and some drawers for storage. Wood will be Walnut and Cherry. I'm going to use some of my curly stock for drawer fronts and some of my straighter stock for the side panels. Plan 3d model
  10. It was the difference between chasing my girlfriend out of the room above me to her being able to watch tv over the noise. It went from needing to double bag hearing protection to running it with just my 13 db reduction ear plugs. It was significant and appreciated.
  11. The sizes up to 13" are easy. Use your jointer and planer. Jay bates has a decent method for material wider than your jointer. I just used this method last night and it worked great. The material over 13" could be solved by a router sled though it might be less effort to cut it in half. Try and remove as little material as possible and glue the boards back together. Both of the benches pictured below were surfaced in 2 pieces. Not because of size but because the cup would have left me with 1/2" of material. If you look closely you might be able to see the rip line.
  12. Chestnut


    Looking back on it i should have bought the matching slab. I feel like an idiot now. OH yeah i remember why i didn't the match was cracked all through the crotch.
  13. Nice i like it. Yeah the walnut will get covered up but I feel like we as woodworkers put a lot of nice wood in locations not usually seen.
  14. The downward force as in pushing the material into the jointer? I'd argue that the angle of attack is not all that different, you could by no means call a regular joitner head low angle.
  15. I'm interested in what you mean by this. I've never had a finish off my HH joitner that i couldn't do something with using hand tools hand sanding or otherwise.
  16. I ran through 4-5 sets 2 sides each. They lasted a heck of a long time with ridges i just can't give a ridge surface from a strait knife a better quality rating than the very very impreciptably wavy finish of a segmented head.
  17. I've built kitchen cabinets that were solid on sides and bottom. They were sturdy with cross bracing like bates did. They were very sturdy for the 3 months i used them before i sold. This is what my miter saw station looks like. A lot less material and it's by far sturdy enough. Wood i used here was free.
  18. Oh i agree that good strait knives give a better surface but the 735 knives lasted about 10 BF before they'd get a ridge and the jointer i had with strait knives was junk. For me the quality on thick cuts is crap if i run a 1/64th cut for a finish pass the quality is far far better than a thick cut. Noise was a HUGE issue with me, strait blade be noisy.
  19. If your furnace has 2 pvc pipes running to it that's a good indicator. For the water heater my burner is literally behind glass, i light the pilot with a built in ignitor. Otherwise google the model and year.
  20. My prayers are with you and your family dave. I hope all turns out well.
  21. Depends on the strait knives and the segmented head. My Byrd heads in my 735 and pj882hh give a way better finish than the strait knives in the 735 ever gave me. Comparing the cut quality of the pj882 to a craftsman 6" with strait knives seems foolish but it's far superior.
  22. Yeah but spags is all crazy with a hand plane and ain't nobody got time for that. Except for me last night bah i be a hypocrite.
  23. Is it jay bates that does the planer sled or nubs or who ever. I just did that flatten leave the edge and then run it through the planer for the other side. Flip back grab the lip and done.
  24. Nic I've done a lot of woodworking in close proximity to my furnace and water warmer. Be diligent at keeping the dust away. Fumes are less of a worry. If your getting concentrations of those enough to be dangerous you'll die from the fumes before the fire probably. Do you appliances have sealed combustion chambers? If so it's even less of a worry. Removing as much dust from the space via dust collector or air filter as possible will always help.