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Everything posted by Chestnut

  1. Chestnut


    literally a firewood pile. I grabbed some other logs i thought were walnut but ended up being not walnut. Must be some kind of elm because i don't know any other woods that are that dark.
  2. Chestnut


    This is the most red i've seen inside box elder personally. I've seen some stuff online taht was better than this. I wonder if the secret is felling the tree in the fall?
  3. There are a couple methods to do this. I recently rebuilt some storm windows using the follow method. I figured it doesn't matter this is a good way. If it's for interior use only you could swap the epoxy filler with any wood filler. The trouble becomes most wood fillers aren't structural only the epoxy ones. Meaning if the window is going to fall apart they won't hold it together the epoxy stuff will. Starting condition. They were in bad shape and i had to nail braces to the frames to keep them together while i rebuilt them. I did this on a few windows o note that not all corners are the same. I removed as much of the bad material as i could. I used a chisel but sandpaper or a putty knife would work as well. After i removed the bulk of the rotted material i used Minwax wood Hardener to kill the bacteria that causes the dry rot. Follow the directions on the container. It's a very nasty product so use disposable brushes and do it some place well ventilated. After that i used a 2 part epoxy wood putty there are a lot of brands i chose minwax because it was the cheapest i think. Follow the directions to mix it. This is not an exact science just try and get as close to the ratio as possible by reckoning. "I reckon that looks about right". Work a a comfortable pace the working time isn't super long. Also depending on the repair you might need to do a few coats or fillings. I had to do 3 or 4. This wood filler is structurally stable so you shouldn't have to worry about strength sacrifices. This stuff also is very pungant so again well ventilated area. Sand smooth rinse repeat until it gets rebuilt properly. If you have details in the wood like molding curves this could be difficult, this approach more artwork than science there and i an't help you with that sorry. Prime with a good primer rated for your exposure. And top coat with a coating to fit the exposure. What ever top coat you choose either outlined above or what ever else you have found this is the base that you will need to do a successful rebuild. This didn't take me long and the most advanced tool i used was a power sander. Remember that anything that touches the uncured products will be ruined so use disposable. Once cured it shouldn't damage anything. I did 3 storm windows in about 4 hours. Most of that was curing time. To mimic wood i used the bristles of a paint brush to fake in some wood grain on the paint.
  4. More information would be helpful. Can you post pictures of the damaged wood? Also where is the item going to be placed indoors outdors? Do you have a home store ( home depot lowes) near by or will you have to order material online?
  5. If the wood is soft and roting or has dry rot it will either need to be stabilized or replaced. I've rebuilt corners of rotting window frames before with epoxy putty and a rot stabilizing solution. Mixing top coats will not solve the problem it'll only cover it up. If the wood is just weathered remove the paint sand smooth and use an exterior primer and paint if it's going outside. Clear finishes don't really protect wood as well as an exterior paint will.
  6. It's too short of a humidity spike. If i remember Shannon saying often KD wood is slow to pickup moisture and quicker to shed it. As long as the client uses their fan to get rid of the humidity there shouldn't be an additional concerns other than standard wood movement. If they don't use their fan and leave their bathroom a humid mess they have bigger concerns than a vanity mold would be a huge problem. I've made bathroom items out of solid wood and have never noticed any issues with them warping cracking, cupping, ect.
  7. Chestnut


    I feel like he might have asked first as well. Some times asking first makes all the difference.
  8. Wait green as in not dried at all? Local guy here he sells dried lumber though. I bought some small stuff from Fromona he charged $3.25 BF dry.
  9. Quick as in i did put a ton of elbow grease into it just lightly and quickly ran the paper over the surface. I typically let the poly cure for 12 ish hours between coats. There are conflicting view points on this. I've read a few places that some woodworkers are adamant about NEVER letting water touch the wood. Some use it to raise the grain ect. My personal technique is to raise the grain on any project that might have water touch the wood. If I use a waterborne finish or an oil/wax finish I'll raise the grain. Any thing that sees oil poly i don't bother.
  10. Sure here is everything i did. I picked some information up for a lot of different places. I sanded everything to 180 grit. More specifically i planned scrapped and then sanded with 180. First coat was de-waxed shellac, Seal-coat. Followed by 3 coats of a satin wiping poly, I used Minwax Wipe On Poly, mostly because it's dirt cheap. I bought 4 quarts a while ago for $5 each. Between the coats i quickly sanded with 320 using a block of wood wrapped in a rag folded over 3 times. I let the final coat cure for at least 24 hours. Then i used a high grit wet/dry abrasive pad (festool platin) and used some mineral oil and mineral spirits to wet sand the finish. I used my EC sander on power 3. The final step is from a WW guild meeting, i feel like i have to say there is a lot of good information there even outside the projects them selves.
  11. Chestnut


    Man i'm glad i'm not the only one. I logged a LOT of video game hours and now i just can't bring myself to turn them on any more. Awesome project IB someday I'll have to make one of these i have 3-4 laptops laying around that would work perfectly.
  12. I bought my PJ882 2 months or so ago, full well knowing that a black Friday sale was going to come and knock 10% off but i had no jointer and wanted to get the work done so i sucked it up. I've probably saved the 10% in just cheaper wood on the projects I've done so far with it. The ouch part is the PJ882HH has a large premium over the strait knives where it's cheaper ($450) to buy the strait knife jointer and replace the head.
  13. I'm going to add the same comment with a twist. Find something you don't think you could make, then go and make it. Don't go hog wild but splurge on some nicer woods. If you keep pushing your limits on every project but never feel like you need a new tool take that money and invest in instruction, or good plans, and then try some different more expensive woods. Just because some of us throw our money away on tools doesn't mean we need to. I'm sure some of our shops, mine for example, have nicer tools than we have ability to use.
  14. I think there is a whole lot more benefit to the HH then just cutting figured wood. Downtime, noise, well just downtime and noise. I know it's probably just me that can never get motivated to keep tools sharp. The inserts make keeping the tooling sharp easy. The noise reduction as well as the increased cut capacity in my 735 was well worth doubling the investment cost of the machine. Just to note the HH machines aren't immune to tear out on figured wood. running grain backwards is still going to leave a nasty surface.
  15. Do it. Those 6" machines seem so small after I've been using an 8" parallelogram model. One thing that isn't often mentioned is the number of cutters on the head. The jet HH only has 27 cutters vs 40 on the PM. I guess i don't know if your thinking HH or strait knives.
  16. Interesting looking figure pattern. I agree with pkinneb about finish. I had no idea there was as much figure in the birch coffee table i just made until finish hit it. Then it almost seemed like too much.
  17. Maybe i have a PM table saw and to get the comparable size with a similar quality fence it was $900 more. Now step into the 3hp saws and the price is a lot closer but i personally think the PM200 competes more with the ICS than the PCS quality wise and there the price is $1100 more for SS. I've had the ability to play with the PM2000 side by side with the PCS. Maybe it's the flashy black and red paint that screams teenage rice burner to me idk but they seem cheap. I really enjoy my PM tools. I think Sawstop is over priced and gets too much hype. Personally i think all these American companies don't compete with the eurokits but that's a whole different conversation.
  18. The accessories are easily walked off with there may be a reason they weren't put out. Though i agree i'd ask i feel like at these places the chances of getting someone that knows is slim.
  19. That place should serve you well. I'm not sure what you have for tooling to process the material but the S4S is going to cost more than the S2S1E but will be less work. Figure out what you need and go prepared. Worst comes to worst your not obligated to buy anything and can always leave. Good Luck.
  20. There are some exotics that are commonly used as well but for cutting boards it's pretty safe to stick with domestics. Birch is another domestic that I've used on cutting boards. It's not quite as white as maple. I don't know why you couldn't use poplar, it's on the softer side so it will show knife marks faster. Stay away from red oak and ash. With the tyloses i could make an argument that white oak would be ok but I'm sure there are a lot of people that would be uncomfortable with that due to it still having a larger pore size. Also Iffy would be elm and hickory/pecan.
  21. I see DW735X from the OPs link am i missing something?
  22. Thanks hopefully I'll make it to one soon. It probably won't be until after the new year beings that this time of the year gets really busy for me with traveling for holidays.
  23. Actually it does the Manufactures model number is DW735X, That's a solid deal. I wish i remembered how much i paid for mine. Edit: I paid $525 for mine on sale in 2014.
  24. I'd argue they are not very different if not the same. I couldn't find the Byrd patent but i found another segmented cutter head patent. Angle A in figure 1 is your hook angle and grinding a back bevel decreases that angle closer to zero. A scraping cut is a cut with an angle of zero or negative. Figure 10 shows the profile geometry of a spiral cutter head and figure 6 shows the angle on the face of the insert. The angle on the insert is greater than that of A in figure 1 but the top dead center of the cutter is about 10 degrees back making that angle slightly steeper. If what you are saying were true it would take more power to do the same cut on my 735 and that is defiantly not the case. I honestly think the cutting angle on the segmented heads is shallower than that of a strait knife head because it takes less power to do the same cut on my 735. I wish i had an easy way to measure the angles but i don't so i rely on the parents and information i can find online. Figure 1.