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Everything posted by Chestnut

  1. Sabine might be the only reason for me to watch the BBC top gear. The lady knows her stuff. That and watching her swear at people, in porches and on sport bikes, while she was driving a Transit was priceless. She is the Queen of the Nurburgring.
  2. Is your slab poured now? It looks like the sill plate is installed on the walk through door but i might be seeing things? Did you get your electrical sorted out?
  3. And she damn near beat him too. Her story is interesting, she grew up pretty much on the track and was a ring taxi driver. I'm not excited for the new top gear, with out Clarkson May and Hammond it's just another show. I'll watch 1 episode just to feel it out but I don't have high expectations.
  4. This is awesome! I really like small craftsmanship it is almost more difficult than building large items because like you sad you don't have a large span to bend things to fit. I learned a lot from this video thanks. This instantly made me think of a playing card holder. I have a friend who always carries playing cards with him everywhere. I'll have to take what i learned here to try and make him one. One question, would making something this small from solid wood work or is that not advised because it could warp or shift?
  5. That's a good suggestion Steve I'm going to add that to a list of birthday gift ideas.
  6. @Gixxerjoe04 Just don't do it. If you need to get by in the mean time look up Poor man's router plane. It's a good way to basically hold yourself over until you can totally justify it. I'm going to make myself a poor mans router plane tonight and try it out. It'll at least help me learn the utility of the tool.
  7. I take my car to the dealer, they are usually really good at telling me what they should be saying and suggest me to wait because they know all my miles are highway. It was funny they did measure my brake pads and extrapolated out that they will need to be changed at about 150k miles which seemed crazy to me. Shit that reminds me i need to get an oil change. Thanks guys!! K seriously though is the dowlmax a pretty good jig? It carries a hefty price tag but is it really any better than a self centering dowel jig?
  8. I really like that the LV router plane seems a bit more flexible than the LN one. It's also nice that it can be used with a wider variety of blades. It is a hair more expensive but i feel like you get a bit more for your money.
  9. Wow that Looks great! I need to make myself one of these one of these days. Mine won't look this good though. I see your floor must be slightly unlevel there is a shim under one leg.
  10. I didn't think there was anything wrong with it but I'm not exactly a model citizen. Cautious isn't a bad thing though.
  11. You replace frames? That's like tearing the entire vehicle apart and putting it back together. Sorry not Like tearing it apart that's totally tearing the entire thing apart. How is that cost effective? Who the heck just has spare frames for new vehicles laying around?
  12. These stories are making me cringe. I catch things with my feet all the time, but i wear steel toe shoes in my shop. I tried it once and being able to set heavy boards on my toes became helpful. I've been wearing them ever since.
  13. Does any one else wish that the wood database got better pictures for their wood? Some of the stuff they get to show as an example is just plain boring compared to what is out there. Did research last night and i think it's going to be a LV router plane. The LN looks nice but didn't change anything over the Stanley No. 71. LV looks like they really stepped up in redesigning the router plane.
  14. Consider me envious of your walnut prices, walnut for me is $9.70 bf for 4/4 and probably another 15% more for 8/4. It probably stinks to consider fixing it but this is something that you're going to be using very often why not enjoy it every time instead of swear about that crack you didn't fix?
  15. A few people seemed interested in the bookshelf speakers that i made in my other project journal so here they are proper. I'll start out with a materials list the post some pictures along the way. I wasn't taking pictures the whole way so there are some details that will be missed. I'm doing this late at night as well because i can't sleep for what ever reason. DAYTON AUDIO DC160-8 6-1/2" CLASSIC WOOFER $20 DAYTON AUDIO XO2W-3K 2-WAY SPEAKER CROSSOVER 3,000 HZ $25 VISATON SC5-8 SHIELDED 1/2" POLYCARBONATE TWEETER 8 OHM $10 Speaker Terminal Plates 1" Port 6 BF Jatoba Some Walnut and some Maple Obviously 2 of each of those, one for each speaker, i could have went cheaper but i wanted to get a decent cross over. Matching tweeters crossovers and woofers is pretty easy. Make sure that the woofer and tweeter are the same impedance and try and have the frequency range over lap some. The woofers above are 40hz - 4khz tweeters are 4khz to 22khz I then chose a crossover that would cross the frequencies over between the two. Pretty simple right? I'm by no means an expert at this, so don't take what i say as 100% fact. I got all the parts from Parts-Express they basically sell speaker components similar to what sony, bose, kilspch would put in their speakers except to everyone. Parts express lists all the technical specs of the dayton audio speakers on their website and their customer service is hands down Lie Nielson style top notch. I left a 3 star review on an item and was contacted by customer service with an RMA for a return i didn't know i needed. First i cut down the Jatoba into 4" widths for resawing, each side of the speaker was going to be the board width ripped in half with maple and walnut wedged in the middle. After resawing the nearly 1" thick Jatoba i glued it with the maple and walnut and then ran the .4" planks through the planer to smooth everything out. Sizing, speaker boxes are .34 Cu Ft based on ported volume. I googled a port calculator and figured out I'd need ~1.6" of a 1" port. To get .34 cu ft i made them 13.5" x 8" x 8" ( i think i honestly forgot). I sized slightly over .34 cu ft to account for the crossover inside. I also had to account for the thickness of the wood taking up volume. The front and back ended up being 3/4" thick with the sides being a hair over 3/8". After gluing the 3 woods together i realized i goofed on the dimensions and made the boards too wide.I took this opportunity to offset the maple and walnut towards the front to add a bit of depth to the design. I REALLY didn't want to do box joints or dovetails to make the boxes but with thin material and wood movement to be concerned about i felt like i had no choice. I wanted these things to be air tight as well as durable. Sorry hand tool lovers, i cut the box joints with my router and the PC 4200 dovetail jig took me maybe 30 min to set up and knock out both boxes. When i set up the joints i made sure each box had continuous grain all the way around with the one odd corner being on the bottom. This holds true for the maple and walnut. For the front of the speaker i wanted to add another small detail. I wanted the front panel to float inside the surround. I did this by mounting a thin piece of jatoba to some 1/2" plywood. I made the Jatoba 1/8" smaller in each direction to leave a 1/16" gap around the outside. I tried as best i could to get things centered and all in all i thought i did ok. Some of the gap is off on the speakers but you'd need to take a ruler to it to see for sure. I took the soldering iron to the internal components to connect them all together. If someone wanted to do this and didn't have the skill to run a soldering iron for electronics you could use spade connectors and a crimp tool. I have the soldering stuff and didn't have spade connectors so my choice was pretty easy. After i got things connected it was as simple as making a jig for the router to cut a circle for the speaker, hole saw for the tweeter, and 5-7 coats of brushing lacquer. After they dried i let the lacquer dry/cure for about a week then i rubbed out the finish to a semi-gloss. I had fun using some polishing compound i bought for sharpening and my 1/4 sheet sander with some bluejeans to get the finish to it's final state. At this point all was left was to mount the speakers and enjoy some tunes. Sorry for the 1 post journal, it didn't feel right for a showcase beings that i already did that. I hope it isn't too long, if it is you won't make it to this apology i guess.
  16. I don't mean to offend but your shop looks like the chaos i tend to get myself into. My shop is a long hallway basically and i'm always tripping over stuff. This bench is going to be really nice the concept of from scratch is awesome as well.
  17. That toy box is going to be amazing looking, I'm glad it's not being painted. I'm excited to see this finished. I'm also glad to hear that I'm not the only one that will start something and then let it sit for 5 months to be finished at a completely random time. I probably have a couple projects sitting like that right now.
  18. Can you use a Shoulder plane to clean up tenon cheeks? I realize it's not the right tool for the job but can it be done? Is there a benefit to owning 2 block planes? I should have never bought a regular block plane and this wouldn't be a problem.
  19. I know there are a ton of threads asking advice on which hand plane to buy. They all have great advice but none of them answered my questions. Brand is irrelevant to me because it's going to be LN or LV, unless someone convinces me that an antique Stanley is worthwhile to buy off ebay. I currently have a pre-1920 Stanley #5 with a Hock blade and that plane is great. I also have a Stanley SW 60 1/5 LABP, works great haven't used it as much since i got the #5 though. I also have a set of 4 Stanley SW 750 socket chisels & a set of 3 Irwin Marples chisels. In the future i see myself working a lot with rabbets more as well as mortise and tenon. Work will be done with a dado stack and or a spinney router. If i had to decide between a shoulder plane, a router plane, or a rabbeting block plane, which would be my best bet? I'm also going to start a big project building cabinets so i can't rule out dado either. Or should i abandon all this and buy the full veritas set of spokeshaves (I'd like to build with more curves) and leave the power tools for rabbet, dado, & M&T work?
  20. I also hate to be another negative voice but starting a company and running with it at 19 is not easy. You have a HUGE age hurdle to jump over with every client. A good friend of mine started his own IT company at 20, by 22 he was working for major corporations. He lost clients that found out he was the owner of the company at 22, eventually he hired a 60 something retiree to sit behind a desk to be the "owner" so he would stop losing clients that thought he was too young. Is that right no but be aware that while you may be the best if your 19 some people just won't take you serious regardless of your resume. Work, get experience, get training, build your shop and fill it with tools on a steady paycheck. Start doing side jobs until you get too many to work full time and do woodworking. This is how I'd do it, but i can't walk away form my day job. It just pays too damn much.
  21. Huh yeah did a quick search and it seems that wdwerker mentioned making his own stock a lot. It almost seemed like he saved the comment and copy pasted it because it was identical for about a years time. Yeah i agree if it takes you an afternoon to change oil you may be spending more time on it than you need to. Not saying you did it wrong you probably just did it very right and slightly over kill. I can't take my pickup to a shop for an oil change any more. It's no longer stock and trying to convince the lube place to put 20w-50 in my engine is just too much of a battle.
  22. @Eric. I bought a sander i don't remember which i tihnk it was a ets 125 but i had the same problem pigtails everywhere. I worked and worked and tried to get the sander to not pigtail. I ended up returning the sander extremely embarrassed but it didn't work for me. I got stuck with a ton of sand paper that i used 1 piece out of each grit though. I went back to my dewalt 1/4 sheet and yes it's a cheap terrible sander but it works for me with no tails. Maybe i just have technique down for this sander but i even use 3M paper, and no one writes about how great that sand paper is.
  23. Over time you'll learn to read grain direction. It is something that can be explained but it didn't fully sink in until i was working with hand tools steadily now it's second nature. Keep practicing and it'd be cool to see some stuff you've made.
  24. Hope it warms up for you guys soon. I know cold weather and it's not fun. Forget looking cool cover up as much skin as possible as I'm sure you already know.