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Everything posted by Chestnut

  1. I might look into it then i have a few bent lam projects in the works. Thanks for the heads up. How much did you end up using for the arms. Also the glue looked like it was TBIII color. Do you feel that it would be too dark for cherry?
  2. I had good luck with epoxy even though a lot of people frown on using it for bent lam. Having to leave them in the forms for 24 hours added a lot of time to the project though. I didn't want to buy another adhesive that would only sit around and not get used after the project was completed. I like the little details that you've done. You have defiantly made it your own. Nice clamps . Glad they worked out for ya.
  3. I use MDF to make mods for bent lam and regular wood glue works well. I've also used a fair amount of hardwood faced MDF and joinery on that worked great with regular wood glue.
  4. Excellent work Rick I really like it. Hopefully his wife does steal it that's far to nice for a mechanic shop . I'm jealous of that cherry. It has some nice curl and awesome color. What do you use for finish?
  5. It's not as bad as you may think. I did a few experiments documented earlier in this thread and learned a few ticks that made it go much more smoothly. It's really surprising how little wood it takes to make a nice effect. The sides started out 1 3/8" to fill a space that is 5".
  6. You are quite right the thin strips that bend are shorter than the thicker pieces. The difference in length wasn't really noticeable so I just didn't bother with it. The groove is 3/16" deep which would be more than enough to cover up a slight difference if it was noticeable. Coop you'd better be careful or we might start accusing you of knowing what you are doing .
  7. I try to mulch them up as much as possible but i still end up loading my 4x8 trailer 2 feet deep with mulched leaves every year during peak drop.
  8. So the tables are DONE! I was going to do 4 coats of finish but the 3rd was so nice and smooth i decided to stop there. I took the table outside and got some better pictures so the details are easier to see. I'm really happy with how thin the lower rail looks. It's like 7/8" thick but looks like 1/2". I could probably stand on it. The table overall is VERY light weight. Which it should be given it's very small 8"x 30". Here it is in place. I need to make some new rear speakers to match the front ones. I also need to do some touchup work on the front speakers as the finish started to fail in a couple spots from water because plants. I took a few pictures of the all the other tables in the room. The duplicate table which was first is hidden under a mountain of game boards and tucked behind the morris chairs. The sub table is tucked in the corner and usually has a blanket basket pushed up against it. All you ever see is the top. Which is good because the base is not attractive, it's not bad either though just meh. My next project is going to be very obvious from the next picture. All of that nice furniture and our dining room chairs are cheap folding chairs....
  9. I'd have jumped on the table saw if you were less than 1,000 mile drive. Good luck with your sale.
  10. Good to hear he is busy, well at least i hope good busy. I too hope he is doing well.
  11. The outside looks great, it's plain and has little physical detail but relies on the veneer for visual interest. I think if he could have had some physical depth in addition to the outstanding veneer it'd help. I think it's somewhat difficult for me to appreciate because of the veneer used on the inside. As soon as you open the doors it looks like every kitchen cabinet sold in the US, red oak veneered particle board. I have to remind my self that you probably don't have piles and piles of red oak laying around in Australia like we do here. I think the piece is well executed though. I'd bet there are a lot of details that don't quite come through the pictures. Hats off to your friend, but i also think that your piece had an edge over his in craftsmanship.
  12. Huh super interesting. I thought the bedrock line would be a lot more expensive. Knowing what i know today they are easily worth the price over the regular line.
  13. Been busy on this but haven't updated because I've been too busy to transfer images and what not. This will be a longer post. I also missed some picture so sorry if it's word heavy and not picture heavy. So i got the sides cut and sanded a while ago, then i got an order for 8 of those game boards i make so i dropped everything and batched those out. I spray them with the HVLP and i HATE doing that in my shop. Coming back to the table I needed to get a top and bottom rail for the ends and make a way to hold everything in the shape that i want it to. The sides are like an accordion so if you just let them go the snap back. I remember the trick from the Morris chair build where Marc makes a groove in the side tails and fills in the gaps with pieces of wood. During my build I took that one step further and cut a gap between the two pieces and used that so the grain match would be better. I did the exact same thing here. The sides ended up being 1/2" thick and instead of tring to dial in a dado stack perfectly to a random dimension I grabbed the Kerf master and had a perfect dado the first try. So i took the rails and got groovy. Then i needed to prep the stock that would act as a space and make the rails look a bit better. I used the planer to get close and then nailed the fit with my hand plane. To cut the strips I used my miter gauge on the table saw. With a ZCI on both the gauge and the throat plate it made this small work easy. I made all but one of the cuts to a dimension. For the last cut I put everthing together and used the piece to mark the exact length for the final cut. This way if my measurements were slightly off i wouldn't get a huge gap. I still got a little gap but it's from some extra sanding i did after the fact. Getting the spacing set and gluing the parts in was VERY tricky but i managed it. There is no trick or easy way to do it. You just have to take your time and make sure to keep your parts organized. I used numbers and letters on various parts so nothing could get mixed up. I had the internal pieces a bit proud of the surface to allow some fitment and figured i could just flush them up after the fact. To flush them up I just ran the piece through the table saw leaving a hair extra and then finished everything with the smoothing plane. When I finished the first one I noticed that there were some gaps on the side. I wasn't totally thrilled with this but I'm too far along now. So i used a clamp on the sides to squeeze the grove together. The following pieces the gaps disappeared. I guess the side was just a bit to thin. In the following picture you can see how well the rain matches up. By now I had to think about Joinery. I intended the sides to be the perfect width to allow for good space around a domino but still be nice and petite looking. Turns out I didn't account for the grove for the decorative side. I had to put everything together and plunge the mortise with the decorative sides in place. There isn't a ton of extra room around the mortise but everything ended up fitting ok. I took extra care to make sure the locations were nailed as i won't be able to use a wider mortise on the mating side as the shoulder won't cover it up. With the joiner done i could do a test fit of the sides. Now that the joiner is done it's time to do details. I didn't take pictures of this but that's ok it's pretty mundane. I wanted the main long rails to have a design similar to the sides so i used a drawing bow and tried to replicate that as best possible. I think it turned out well, subtle, but well. I cut to the line on the bandsaw and cleaned up with a spoke shave. I have been getting better with the spoke shave and am able to get a near surface ready finish with it. I'm not there yet but I've been able to remove most chatter marks with 120 grit instead of needing to really go at it with 80 grit. I want to have a lower stretcher like most of the furniture in the room. it does 2 jobs: 1. I like the look of it 2. it adds a bit of strength to the piece and a bit of piece of mind that i can use it as a ladder when i need to.... . I wanted to use some thicker materiel but didn't want the look of thick material. I knew this would be low to the ground so I'm using a trick of the eye. I put a pencil 1/4" up from the bottom and 3/4" in from the sides and used my hand plane to connect the 2 lines making a 20 degree ish chamfer on the bottom. The picture above shows the lines but they may be hard to see. I did a full dry assembly and something was off. I didn't like the curves and delicate look of the whole project and the contrast of the square plain legs. So i grabbed the french curve and put a decorate foot on the bottom of each leg. Again I didn't take pictures of this but it was as simple as cut the line and clean up with a spoke shave. Assembly!!! The ling sides i wanted glued to the legs. This was more tricky than i thought with the weird decorative sides. I ended up having to wedge some stuff in there to be able to throw a clamp on. You can see the sand paper and it's hard to make out but i used the french curve and my paloni pocket ruler on the left side. That ruler is SUPER useful! Oh as usual prior to assembly i did my usual sanding to #4 grit. If you are unfamiliar with #4 grit, it's 3 passes with a smoothing plane and your done cause sanding sucks. Tonight was coat 1 of finish. When i get this fully done I'll take some pictures of the room with the tables and I'll take this table outside and get some good pictures with a less busy background. It's HARD to see the details with all that clutter behind the image, my apologies.
  14. Lets make this truly interesting. The Lie-Nielsen tools are a copy with improvements over the Bedrock versions of the stanly plane. So you should be comparing the #4 to the Bedrock 604 the #5 to the Bedrock 605 ect. The other part that I find interesting is the used price of a Vintage #5 is nearly 20x higher. Though that 20 fold increase doesn't even cover inflation.
  15. I had a thin kerf industrial blade warp (probably my fault as i was ripping 1.25" material with a 40T blade) and the forrest WW II was one of those 0.90" kerf blades also warped. I think there are a lot of good brands out there. Ridge Carbide (holy $$$$), Infinity cutting tools, CMT Industrial line I've heard good things about too.
  16. I have bad luck with thin kerf blades becoming warped and recommend getting a full kerf blade. I have a PM1000 and the saw has more than enough power to cut if you use a blade with an appropriate tooth count. I find that a full kerf lower tooth count gets me far better results.
  17. I have a Forrest WWII 20T thin kerf blade, it's ok and developed a wobble quickly. As a result of the wobble the quality of cut decreased and i only use it on dirty junky lumber. I have a full kerf Freud Industrial 24T ripping blade, and a 50T full ker Freud Industrial combination blade. These two blades are my primary blades for either cross cuts or ripping. If I need to rip some material that is 5/8" or thinner i use the combination anything thicker i use the ripping blade. The Forrest was a good blade before it developed the wobble. To be fair to Forrest the wobble is a result of it being thin kerf. I've had other thin kerf blades develop a wobble. The trouble is the thinner saw plate heats up faster than the thicker plate of a full kerf blade, because of science reasons they heat up unevenly and warp. My one gripe with Forrest is they don't cut in anti vibration relief and the blades are LOUD. I also personally think these vibration cuts help prevent the saw plate from warping. I also like the coating on the Freud Industrial blades as it makes removing pitch and resin faster and easier. The coating helps reduce heat build up as well but wood shouldn't be contacting the saw plate I find it interesting that the people you talked to didn't like Freud. I've never heard a complaint with the Freud Industrial line. The diablo line a few people have said aren't as good but by no means said they were bad. I own a pm1000 and have ran probably 7-10 different blades on it and have settled with the 2 Freud industrial as mentioned above, the big thing is get a blade that can be sharpened. The right blade is a clean sharp blade with the right tooth count for the cut. For rips you need to run something like 24T or 20T, for cross cuts you can run a 50T or 80T. I run about 250-300 BF through my shop a year and sharpen about once every 18 months.
  18. The dimension son the site that you need to route out are 19mm x 9.5mm and is the same for both. They both take 5/16" t nuts but the incra stated it took 1/4" and m5 as well. I'd bet the other does too it just isn't listed. Long story short they look identical to me.
  19. OK i'm confused because the Euro guides look identical to carter guides. Am I missing something? I always thought euro guides were the ceramic guides.
  20. My only knock on magnets is they have magnetized my tools so they then pull towards other metal tools. Though it doesn't stop me from using them either.
  21. I like the PM1000, it'll work well for you. Being a 1.75hp saw I don't' feel limited by it. Make sure to have good sharp blades that fit the situation. If you are trying to cut 2" thick hardwood a 20T ripping blade is a MUST. Nice part on the PM saws is blade changes are nice and easy as they have an arbor lock. Something i recently found out not all saws have.
  22. If you have questions please ask. I wish I could show you in person as it helped me a lot to learn but we don't live that close to each other.
  23. This isn't a review of a specific product but more of a review of a product idea. I bought some of these magnetic shelve things off amazon to use as storage on machines. Most of our machines are steel and magnets stick well to them. I always loose pencils tape measure ect, and always have the Allen wrenches and other accessories that you need to adjust things. Before i used the parts treys which work but they made the Allen wrenches rulers and other steel parts magnetic which became slightly annoying. The shelf is a much better idea as it allows me to also hold non-magnetic objects close at hand. I have one on the front of my table saw that holds the adjustment tool for the incra miter gauge my table saw nut wrench and some allen wrenches for various jigs ect. I also have one on my bandsaw that is more centrally located that has a ruler in it (it's below the edge) a bunch more allen wrenches. and has more tape measures that are in plain sight. They have a weight limit and won't be able to hold a TON of weight but some hand tools rulers and a couple tape measures aren't half of what they can hold.
  24. I have a lot of the 6" jorgensen clamps pre-sell-out and have loved them and use them a ton. the 6" is probably my most used clamp in the shop i have them everywhere. Before they sold to Great Star or which ever Chinese company they were $8-10 each. I should go get a pack, it'd be interesting to compare them to the older ones.
  25. Oh also big benefit to cutting them after the fact is you don't have to worry about tear out doing the cross grain cuts with a circular saw. There is no guarantee that veneering oversize and cutting to fit won't chip out.