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Everything posted by Chestnut

  1. Makes a bit of a mess for my liking. I use 2 mostly. I use 3 when water exposure is expected. I've never had an issue with time on TB II. Though when i know I'll have an issue i use epoxy.
  2. I'd check the brushes on the motor. I've never been able to figure out how long the brushes would last but there is no way they can last forever. I don't know if that would cause the problem but maybe?
  3. Yes except I'd need to waste a butt load of 10/4 cherry which i don't have and don't want to waste just to get a 1/2" thick back. My counter argument is the time saved in figuring out the joinery would be spend cleaning up band saw marks and shaping the back rest. A 9" wide curved resaw would be very challenging in a different way. My design that I'm standing firm on is what is causing the troubles. If i yield on the design it ruins the idea I've had for the last 6 years. Now that i know the drastic curve isn't really necessary I might still do some curve but just contain it within a 6/4 board which is what i was going to use anyway... we shall see. A very gentle curve that I'm picturing could be sent through the drum sander to make fast work of cleanup, well at least one side.
  4. So i spent a bunch of time trying to figure out various parts of the dining chair this weekend. I wanted to get prototype #3 done and I'm glad that I did. I made a lot of good progress and then it all got thrown away. I struggled for a long time trying to figure out how to do the joinery for the backrest. The angle at the top comes off of a curved portion and the bottom has an odd angle and is in the middle of a curve. I ended up figuring out that I could scribe 2 side pieces to the curve of the back rest that would allow me to make a jig that would clamp on. Between the 2 side pieces I managed to make a flat area that was perpendicular to the bottom of the back rest. This would allow me to use the domino to cut a mortise. A person could make this a bit larger and use a router as well. The tabs on the sides got removed they were just there to hold every thing in place while I fasted the brace between the 2 sides. This worked out really well. I centered the domino on the back rest and was able to plunge in quite a large mortise. both ends of the back rest were done this way. The top side had a similar jig but the angles were different. I ended up getting a fer angles off and there was a bad gap when i glued everything together. This is what a prototype is for. After I got the back rest figured out I did another seat sculpting. I took my template for the seat and used that to outline the shape of the seat. I then used the band saw to do some pre-sculpting. For seats like this I find it best to use an odd number of parts. This allows you to cut a center that has an easy to cut shape. It's a simple dish with the corners knocked off. This shapes the seat area and the pommel. Using the center you can then scribe and cut out the 2 parts adjacent to the center. Take care not to cut behind the lines that you have drawn for the outline. The right side of this part looks a little weird for this reason. It's possible to use wide boards to make the seat this way. You will just have to rip those wide boards into smaller pieces to make the parts easier to pre-sculpt. It would be possible to do this with out pre-sculpting but it would be a LOT more difficult. With 3 parts cut i put the seat together and drew on a few guide lines where I wanted slopes to go and get a general idea of the seat. I also scribed the middle side pieces to their neighbor. With those lines determined I took pieces 2 and 6 and sculpted them with the RAS before assembly. This allows you do see lines of the side end and top to have an easier time sculpting. Thanks @Bmac The tips on sculpting really make a difference. I like the idea of sculpting as far as you can before glue up. After all pre-sculpting is complete. At this point the seat feels good and all that is left is cleaning up and removing a few high spots. After this I glued the seat together and then did the final sculpting. I used the RAS and the goose neck scraper. I know Bmac likes the RO90 here but the scraper does such a dang good job I'm not sure that I'm gonna get the RO90. I go the chair together and brought it upstairs to try out. I wanted to play with seat height to see what was comfortable. This chair I made to 17 3/4" tall with the table at 30 1/2" it's a bit too short. The previous chair at 18 1/2" felt much better. This reinforces the 11_1/2" to 12" difference from table height to chair height that I've always used. It's better for the chairs to be taller than shorter. Here is where I throw all of the progress away. The backrest is nice but after sitting in the chair, Megan liked it ok but said that she didn't care about it. The curve out is a LOT of work the joinery is miserable and it'd add hours to each chair. In the end she said she doesn't like the look and told me to scrap it. I'm really glad we had the conversation at this point and not after I had a bunch of back rests made!
  5. As long as the grain direction in the veneer is the same as that in the substrate behind there should be minimal issue. It's likely that there will be some variance in expansion and contraction but it won't be enough to cause troubles. If the veneer was to be applied perpendicular to the grain of the substrate issues would probably arise. A balanced veneer in the first situation would check all the proper boxes but you could get away with veneering just one side. I've done this with shop made veneer in my Walnut Dresser Build as well as my closet storage build. The sides of the drawers and the dovetails will be enough to hold the front of the drawer flat, although it's unlikely that a thin veneer would be strong enough to cup a small drawer front. The benefit to veneering just the front would be to allow you to veneer the drawer fronts after the drawers are constructed and assembled allowing a lot more control over grain continuity. To back this up reading both Nakashima and Maloof they both stated that if veneer is applied parallel to the grain it's not necessary to veneer both sides. Nakashima referenced it with a strong distaste for veneer, Maloof approached veneer as another tool to achieve a goal.
  6. A friend of mine lives on a street that was just replaced. The street was paved with wood cobbles that were soaked in creosote. I guess the salvaged as much of the cobbles as they could and replaced them in a sidewalk or something to appease the historical society. Are you saying we should start saving our scraps and cover our shop floors in scraps?
  7. If it's not clear the comment about methanol was a joke. I'd not mess with it. It was more making light of the fact that while methanol is far more dangerous it's still legal to purchase.
  8. Ah drat you are right, i'm no chemist. I always get isoproply and methanol confused as being the same thing. Fixed the above, Methanol is still an organic compound that is for sale in CA.... it's sold as racing fuel. I wonder if it could be used as a solvent for shellac? It's cheaper than DNA. And if you run low on fuel in your drag car you have some backup race fuel .
  9. A well written letter to the representatives on CARB may go a long way. Stating that household quantities (1qt or less) of denatured alcohol would pose little to no impact on air quality. Also stating that specific natural finishes (shellac) require a natural solvent and that there isn't an alternative available. I doubt they are aware of the uses of DNA and just want to stamp out it's use in maritime stoves, camp stoves, etc. They did hold meetings on DNA in June of 2019, I"m sure there are many people that are complaining about this. The irony is that Denatured Alcohol is Methanol (rubbing alcohol) and Ethyl Alcohol typically , and both are still for sale in the state..... :| Here is a map of the air districts you may try looking outside the one you live in and see if it's just a regional thing. May not have to drive out of state. If you do buy a bunch as DNA doesn't go bad.
  10. Buy it online and have it shipped?
  11. I found a few furniture archives for both Sam Maloof and James Krenov. I've been searching for good galleries for Danish Modern or MCM furniture as it's more the style I'd like to explore next. REFERENCE POST
  12. Found some interesting information that you might be interested in @Bmac. It's possible that the chair you are interested in has dimensioned drawings of the exact chair you are interested in. They appear to have a lot of information on that site. It may be worth reaching out to them as well if you are interested.
  13. I love parts-express. I just sent an email to tech support asking a question. They were helpful and offered to replace the item even though I admitted i was abusing it. Their customer service rivals that of Lie-Nielsen.
  14. That is a beautiful speaker. I can see how the top and sides are slightly different but the major thing that saves you is that they are in different planes. With that separation 99.98% of people won't even noticed, in their brain it will just register as receiving different light.
  15. UV will speed it up but oxidizing / color change is inevitable. Hum i find it interesting that someone would go to such extents to have a commissioned product try and match perfectly with cabinetry in a rental unit. They are going to move eventually and then what?
  16. That'd be a cool patio chair. It's too heavy handed and bulky though. The arms should be thinner as well as the seat sides. It is a good design that could be made quickly and easily though.
  17. If you planned for the walnut to be long grain and the maple to be end grain you are setting yourself up for disaster. The board will expand and crack or contract and crack. Either way it will end in misery. To make the board properly everything would need to be end grain and in that case there is no bracing one wood with another as the bonds between the long grains of wood are not as strong as the long grains them selves. @wtnhighlander I agree a frame work would help support the board but it'd add an extra step to use the board over the sink and may be just enough to prevent you from doing so. You could attach said frame but then wood movement issues would become a problem especially over a 32" span. -I know it's less desirable but the thinner lighter weight and stronger long grain board would still be my go to in this situation. I'm also developing a taste for simple and would do it all in maple and maybe hire some laser time to burn in a single initial for my last name or something. (My thoughts here are mostly opinions and my tastes don't really match what's trendy so take my opinions as such and with a grain of salt.)-
  18. I've jointed 12" boards on my 8" jointer quite easily with good luck. If i got a larger jointer my planer wouldn't be big enough. For stuff over 15" wide I'd just use a router sled. Not as fast but for the 1 time a year I need it it's still faster than driving somewhere.
  19. I'd do a face grain or edge grain board. I don't get the appear for end grain. You could make a long grain board thinner and lighter and not have to worry about the size. End grain spanning 32" makes me nervous especially if you are using it to gain counter space. One heavy item set in the center could cause disaster. The glue joints aren't the worry the wood splitting is more the worry. Maybe ism over stating this and being overly cautious. This is my opinion, one of these days I should make something end grain and try and break it to see how strong it is. If you want something striking and eye catching try Some one else gave me the idea so I give credit to that person.
  20. I'd put some dye in shellac and spray on a light coat. It's going to be really hard to get a match if you can't do some trial and error. It'd be very nice if there was some piece that you could bring back with you. You'd then want to top coat the shellac with some WB poly again. It's starting to sound like too many coats. This is why I'll never promise even getting close to a color match. Other things to consider is they may match now but when the finish yellows and UV light changes the color of the poly and the wood the existing a new could start deviating in color. Depending on the wood and location this could happen quickly.
  21. Congrats to your daughter. That's an awesome project!
  22. Nice I like it. I've always been a fan of bent lamination it's a fun technique.
  23. Want to be pedantic fine I have no interest in visiting the Los Angeles-Long Beach CSA .... Nothing wrong with it, personally my tastes are more for northern CA coastline with the redwood forests. That area is like being on another planet.
  24. I was thinking maybe shoot them a phone call or email and see if they have some for internal purposes. I'd just say I was an art student studying Maloof's later work.