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Everything posted by Chestnut

  1. Chestnut

    HVLP Dye

    I used the 1.3mm standard cap. It's all i have. Fuji's site suggests the 0.8 mm cap set for dyes but i found what i had worked well enough. Shellac is a different story. They suggest the 0.8mm - 1.0mm and i can see how that would improve the finish. Shellac dries so fast getting enough on the surface fine enough to level out but not too much so that it runs is tough. I should note i used the shellac more as a color additive to add a hair of amber and less as a barrier. Beings that i was solely spraying i could have gotten away with going from WB dye to WB poly. Next time I'm going to try adjusting the color with dye and doing just that. I don't like spraying shellac. Cleaning the gun is a pain, the stuff dries so fast and the nooks and crannies are difficult to clean. The over spray cloud is nasty and left the close adjacent surfaces gritty feeling. I'd also agree with Jewitt. Unfortunately I didn't have the luxury of that kind of time. I raised the grain, applied the dye, and shellac all between getting home late from work and before i went to bed so 6pm to 9pm, on a humid day to boot. I only put 1 thin coat of shellac down and figured with 24 hours of dry time that it would turn out ok, and it did. If this was furniture and not corn hole board's i wouldn't have taken the risk. As i noted above I put the boards to use very quickly. I started setting up to spray the WB poly at 4:30 pm had both coats on by 5:15 pm and was using the boards at 5:45pm. Nothing but HIGH praise for Endurovar.
  2. It looks short or is that just illusion? If you struggling for time i'd spare us the details on the dovetails and try and make it to your show. Like you said you've documented it here already in awesome detail.
  3. Chestnut

    HVLP Dye

    So I've been meaning to try spraying dye with my hvlp as a means to do something with the curly maple that i have. Megan doesn't like light colored wood, or light colors in general so using maple becomes difficult as I don't care for the blotchy look from wiping on dye. Recently i had a request for some corn hole boards and figured I'd use this as a good opportunity to try out some hvlp dyeing. I figured I'd share with you all my process to either get some good feedback to get better or to help someone else along. I should start with my test pieces. I wanted to make sure that this was going to work the way I had in mind. So I took a pint of water and took approximately 1 tbsp of Transfast powered dye and made my spray solution. I wanted to test multiple things: how well that mixture would cover, how far a pint would go, if there would be any blotching, if it would cover without running, would i need to put down a barrier coat of shellac. So i sprayed on the water dye solution and it laid down evenly no splotching, but not quite the color i wanted. Rockler was closed and I didn't have time to run and get anything or order something anyway so i just dealt with it. Because i was spraying on bare wood there was good coverage and no running. The color was also good and dark. I thought i had taken pictures of the test pieces but it turns out i hadn't. I started with raising the grain with water. I may not have done this well enough because after the dye the surface was quite rough again, more later. I sanded back to 320 with the ROS and let the boards dry for about an hour (not nearly enough). The top of the boards are maple ply, the good American stuff not the #@$(@ import stuff from that one country we love to hate. I edge banded the tops larger than needed and flush trimmed them to the base. With everything prepped i mixed up a solution of water and Transfast powered dye. I used Dark Mission Brown, because that's the only color i had and it fit the request of Megan, aka the client. I mixed approximately 1 tbsp with a pint of hot water. The previous day I did my tests was sunny with no wind. The day i sprayed was windy and rainy so i had to move the vehicles out of the garage. I laid down the dye a little bit lighter than i had for my test pieces. I also had an idea for solving the color issue. I figured some yellow would help tone down the blue that i wasn't liking. I let the dye dry for an hour or so while i cleaned the gun then loaded up some dewaxed shellac. After i sprayed the shellac on the boards were very blue and hazy.... dang. I figured it was just some traped water from the grain raising and dye that i didn't allow to dry off. I also noticed that the surface was very rough. Not sure if it was raising grain again or if I'm just no good with shellac. Either way i brought them inside and down to my shop where the humidity was low to dry. The following day they had dried and the blue has had disappeared. I brought them outside again and sprayed them with 3 heavy coats of endurovar. I was having friends over for grilling and yard games so i was iffy on these being dry in time. 35 min later the endurovar was dry and hard to the touch. So i set them up and we threw bags at them not an hour after the last coat of finish went on. Man i love water borne poly out of an HVLP. I got compliments on how smooth the finish was. Gun settings, i turned the needle vale all the way off and then came back 3/4 of a turn. The fan setting was set halfway between full fan and spot. HVLP is a Fuji MM4 & gravity feed gun. I used this setting for both the dye and the WB poly. For the shellac i went to 1 full turn as it wasn't laying down as wet as i'd have liked. It looked like it was half dry and hitting the surface.
  4. I had a blue haze recently under some shellac i sprayed. It was moisture. I only had 1 light coat on the haze worked it's way out over night. I've also had wiping poly haze in rougher areas. Is the area kind of rough to the touch? For these some extra coats in that area solved the problem. It filled in the roughness and cut the haze.
  5. We have honey locust trees around here as well. I'd like to grab one some day and chainsaw mill it just to see how nasty it is compared to something like the exotics or hickory.
  6. Ahh I see it now.... how could i have been so blind.
  7. Gotta figure out those jointer tricks. I was using some 10-11" lumber the other day just fine on my 8" jointer. I draw the line at 12" material, it gets hard to fit through my 13" planer with the hook sled at that point. I don't mind the look of the chair originally but it's going to look better with curves. I assume you are goign to do a sculpted seat?
  8. I don't know if it's just the right age or what the problem is but it seems like everything is falling apart at my house right now. I replaced a few sprinkler heads and the kitchen faucet. I have casement window cranks that need attention. A bunch of the window frames need painting and attention. The list of things i need to do just keeps growing.... but everything goes smoothly. Now my old house was a different story.
  9. Oooo it's starting to show some shape!!!! I'm really excited to see where this goes.
  10. This all turned out awesome! I really like the shutters it's a cool idea. Those skinny drawers are kinda funky what is their intended purpose?
  11. Do you have a problem with me? I don't understand the nitpicking unnecessarily.
  12. And there are woodwoerks on reddit and youtube that constantly complain that wipe on poly is too difficult to use.....
  13. French polish is a very old technique and if the table is new probably isn't the best way to approach this. If you find someone that is willing to do a french polish it's going to be expensive. Beings that you said Sheesham and invoice i assume the table is on the newer side in which case the finish is most likely lacquer or some sort. As i said above if i were fixing this table I'd hit it with a couple coats of dewaxed shellac and then a lacquer or waterborne poly topcoat. There are alcohol soluble dyes that can tint shellac to many different colors allowing you to change the color slightly as well.
  14. It's unfortunate that the both of you felt singled out by that. Most of the people on this site have far more experience and are better than the vast crowd of woodworkers. If woodworkers didn't struggle with finishing Marc would give Osmo so much attention and stress constantly at how easy it is and how often woodworkers struggle with finishing.... I have no delusions in knowing that I'm not good at finishing. I also know that I've been failing at it for years and feel like it's good advice to take a possibly expensive table to a professional and have it fixed right.
  15. Did you test to make sure that they will in fact stop the button form turning on the saw?
  16. I put my dust in black to make sure the garbage truck driver can't see what's inside with his little camera. I got charged once for throwing away yard waste but it was actually sawdust. Trouble is I'm not going to compost dust that has finish in it or walnut in it as those materials aren't good for a garden. Amazon has them
  17. Like i said in another thread about the same thing. Your best bet is to find a professional. It's going to be the most painless way to get this figured out. The best way to fix this is HVLP and spray on a coat of dewaxed shellac and then a couple fresh topcoats. It's possible to do by hand but not having a lot of experience your results are probably going to be unsatisfactory, no offense, It takes woodworkers years to master finishing and a lot of them learn to hate it along the way.
  18. Less a woodworking question and more a coatings and finishing question. India is the country of origin and who knows what kind of lacquer they used on the top. Don't apply a stain. Stains have pigment and don't form a film finish and aren't going to be compatible. Applying and restoring finishes is a whole different can of worms and frankly most woodworkers are bad at it. If you want it done right find a professional, otherwise you have a lot of experimentation and guess work to do. Any thing you try, do on the underside of the table or on the inside of the side rails aka somewhere out of sight. Don't do anything on the top until you have proven it will work on a hidden spot. If you need to find a professional re-finisher talk to moving companies. They have to fix stuff they damage frequently and will know someone to talk to.
  19. Do note that sapele will darken with time. When you install it fresh it's going to be lighter in color than when it ages for a year or 2.
  20. The collectors are nice and low pressure so some home center silicone should do the trick. I've also found that Redwood and Jatoba work well for this too.
  21. I'd call your bluff, running a saw like that would be fun. That's like asking to borrow a car and getting the keys to a hemi cuda thrown at you. Though I'm also not likely to be a person to ask to borrow a saw.
  22. I once almost got tripped up by a farmer that stored diesel fuel in a red can because it's what he had on hand.... when i heckled him about it i believe the response was something "Well you appear to know the difference in smell so why does it matter?"
  23. I know guys that coat cars with it. They want to change their car color every year so it's a good option. To coat a car it's like $750 and takes a good 3-4 days of prep and application. It peels nicely from large flat smooth surfaces but is a pain to remove from textured surfaces. Coincidentally this just popped up for me on youtube.
  24. The strait grain on this redwood is beautiful. I felt terrible at times cutting the clear 16' long 1x8s. Some of the boards were in pretty bad shape. My dad has some clear 2x8 22' long redwood boards that we are going to process down to make into planters for my mom and grandmotehr. It's painful to cut them down but 20' boards are just unmanageable. Some times it pays to be a scavenger.
  25. Now that you have a burnisher I think it's time to start figuring out card scrapers. They can be frustrating at first but once you get them they are a wonderful tool to have in the shop.