Chestnut

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Everything posted by Chestnut

  1. Lets make this truly interesting. The Lie-Nielsen tools are a copy with improvements over the Bedrock versions of the stanly plane. So you should be comparing the #4 to the Bedrock 604 the #5 to the Bedrock 605 ect. The other part that I find interesting is the used price of a Vintage #5 is nearly 20x higher. Though that 20 fold increase doesn't even cover inflation.
  2. I had a thin kerf industrial blade warp (probably my fault as i was ripping 1.25" material with a 40T blade) and the forrest WW II was one of those 0.90" kerf blades also warped. I think there are a lot of good brands out there. Ridge Carbide (holy $$$$), Infinity cutting tools, CMT Industrial line I've heard good things about too.
  3. I have bad luck with thin kerf blades becoming warped and recommend getting a full kerf blade. I have a PM1000 and the saw has more than enough power to cut if you use a blade with an appropriate tooth count. I find that a full kerf lower tooth count gets me far better results.
  4. I have a Forrest WWII 20T thin kerf blade, it's ok and developed a wobble quickly. As a result of the wobble the quality of cut decreased and i only use it on dirty junky lumber. I have a full kerf Freud Industrial 24T ripping blade, and a 50T full ker Freud Industrial combination blade. These two blades are my primary blades for either cross cuts or ripping. If I need to rip some material that is 5/8" or thinner i use the combination anything thicker i use the ripping blade. The Forrest was a good blade before it developed the wobble. To be fair to Forrest the wobble is a result of it being thin kerf. I've had other thin kerf blades develop a wobble. The trouble is the thinner saw plate heats up faster than the thicker plate of a full kerf blade, because of science reasons they heat up unevenly and warp. My one gripe with Forrest is they don't cut in anti vibration relief and the blades are LOUD. I also personally think these vibration cuts help prevent the saw plate from warping. I also like the coating on the Freud Industrial blades as it makes removing pitch and resin faster and easier. The coating helps reduce heat build up as well but wood shouldn't be contacting the saw plate I find it interesting that the people you talked to didn't like Freud. I've never heard a complaint with the Freud Industrial line. The diablo line a few people have said aren't as good but by no means said they were bad. I own a pm1000 and have ran probably 7-10 different blades on it and have settled with the 2 Freud industrial as mentioned above, the big thing is get a blade that can be sharpened. The right blade is a clean sharp blade with the right tooth count for the cut. For rips you need to run something like 24T or 20T, for cross cuts you can run a 50T or 80T. I run about 250-300 BF through my shop a year and sharpen about once every 18 months.
  5. The dimension son the site that you need to route out are 19mm x 9.5mm and is the same for both. They both take 5/16" t nuts but the incra stated it took 1/4" and m5 as well. I'd bet the other does too it just isn't listed. Long story short they look identical to me.
  6. OK i'm confused because the Euro guides look identical to carter guides. Am I missing something? I always thought euro guides were the ceramic guides.
  7. My only knock on magnets is they have magnetized my tools so they then pull towards other metal tools. Though it doesn't stop me from using them either.
  8. I like the PM1000, it'll work well for you. Being a 1.75hp saw I don't' feel limited by it. Make sure to have good sharp blades that fit the situation. If you are trying to cut 2" thick hardwood a 20T ripping blade is a MUST. Nice part on the PM saws is blade changes are nice and easy as they have an arbor lock. Something i recently found out not all saws have.
  9. If you have questions please ask. I wish I could show you in person as it helped me a lot to learn but we don't live that close to each other.
  10. This isn't a review of a specific product but more of a review of a product idea. I bought some of these magnetic shelve things off amazon to use as storage on machines. Most of our machines are steel and magnets stick well to them. I always loose pencils tape measure ect, and always have the Allen wrenches and other accessories that you need to adjust things. Before i used the parts treys which work but they made the Allen wrenches rulers and other steel parts magnetic which became slightly annoying. The shelf is a much better idea as it allows me to also hold non-magnetic objects close at hand. I have one on the front of my table saw that holds the adjustment tool for the incra miter gauge my table saw nut wrench and some allen wrenches for various jigs ect. I also have one on my bandsaw that is more centrally located that has a ruler in it (it's below the edge) a bunch more allen wrenches. and has more tape measures that are in plain sight. They have a weight limit and won't be able to hold a TON of weight but some hand tools rulers and a couple tape measures aren't half of what they can hold.
  11. I have a lot of the 6" jorgensen clamps pre-sell-out and have loved them and use them a ton. the 6" is probably my most used clamp in the shop i have them everywhere. Before they sold to Great Star or which ever Chinese company they were $8-10 each. I should go get a pack, it'd be interesting to compare them to the older ones.
  12. Oh also big benefit to cutting them after the fact is you don't have to worry about tear out doing the cross grain cuts with a circular saw. There is no guarantee that veneering oversize and cutting to fit won't chip out.
  13. I'd have the drawer fronts cut to size with the dovetails done. It might be more tricky to get the veneer trimmed after the fact but you have a huge advantage of not having to worry about messing up the drawer front, which probably won't happen. For trimming the veneer i wouldn't use a flush trim bit. That's like taking a 48" bar chain saw out to cut a twig. If you've used veneer you should be aware that it's thin and cuts very well with a utility knife. If you were unaware veneer cuts really well with a utility knife . I'd do a practice board with maybe a similar veneer or a scrap piece. Attach it to the small board and then very lightly use the board as a strait edge and cut through the veneer. The key here is to NOT try and make the cut in one pass. For long grain work a fellow forum member taught me to use very very light pressure down and heavy pressure against the strait edge to score the veneer. The strait edge in your case is the drawer front. Then progressively apply a bit more pressure to cut the rest of the way through. This should take roughly 4-5 passes. It sounds tedious but it goes quite fast. This helps prevent the splintering. For end grain you want to try and prevent blowing out when you complete the cut. I suggests making the end grain cuts first. They are similar to the long grain cuts with the exception that you want to make partial length cuts starting towards the end of the cut working your way forward. So if you are pulling the knife towards you start on the corner closest to you and work your way away from you. Again with the light pressure down but good pressure against the strait edge or your drawer face. You again want to take about 5-6 passes. What this does is it severs the grain first in the place it's most likely to blow out allowing you to more forward more towards the area that there will be more grain support. If the veneer starts to split I'd stop and assess and proceed with even less downward pressure. If the veneer ends up a bit proud of the surface at this point I'd call that a win and use some very light sanding to flush it up completely. I don't think there is anything helpful, but this is a project i did with veneer.
  14. I appreciate G&G from a woodworking stand point and I think the BIG difference is tastefully done and over done. Some of the stuff that is made like Darrell's Fremont dresser or that bench that Marc made not that long ago look good to me. Then there are other G&G pieces that have 50x too many ebony plugs and it seems like the creator just went overboard. It's like comparing the amount of sequence, glitter, feathers on a Vegas showgirl compared to a regular lady. One has none or an appropriate amount they other has way WAY too much, but it catches your eye.
  15. I don't have a combo machine and I'm glad that I didn't purchase one. Carrying something that heavy into my basement would have sucked! If i didn't have a basement shop I'd have bought one.
  16. One thing that is nice with moble bases is if any sort of maintenance or repair needs to be done. I had a set screw come loose on my jointer and it was very easy to fix. It was the first time in 2 years I'd moved the thing.
  17. Did you catch the lawsuit in 2015 he filed against every maker of table saw for" conspired to boycott SawStop’s safety technology and corrupt a private safety-standard-setting process". The original case and appeal were both dismissed. It was interesting though. He seems like he's more interested in doing lawyer things than table saws. Just in case you missed it the above is a link to the US courts document.
  18. Interesting. Yeah videos are good. I like books tough as i can flip back to a specific tool or section quickly and i can get the information faster than some one can speak it. A 2 min video showing me how a tool works would be good too. I can't focus for some of the 45 min + tutorials though. I end up playing around and figuring out most of the stuff and then have to endlessly search for the stuff i didn't find. Just a warning, like Ross mentioned FreeCAD is free and will always be free. Fusion360 is on the whims of Autodesk. If they get bought out and the company that buys them decides they no longer want to provide storage for your files you are SOL.
  19. This is true. The meat cutting band saw method is pretty interesting as well. It's been posted around. If it were me I'd create a system that has a brake on the blade and then make the user dip their fingers in nano bots. Track the nano bots and when ever they get with in a 1/4" of the blade activate the brake. Only because nano bots and woodworking would be an awesome pair.
  20. Man makes me hungry for a hotdog.... got one in the fridge for lunch This is an awesome system, defiantly improves on what Bosch did let alone the sawstop system. The blade destruction and brake system was ok for a first iteration but I'm almost slightly disappointed after seeing this that Sawstop stopped innovating. Hindsight makes this seem like the next logical step. I'm goign to continue to be irritated I'll never get a slider into my shop.... too big and too heavy.
  21. @Mark J Have you tried https://f360ap.autodesk.com/courses I'm not criticizing any of the software either. I'm just pointing out that Fusion360 is intended to be perpetually free for people that are using it for hobby use or commercial use that makes less than $100k/year. Autodesk, despite their other failings, is good at putting their products in the hands of individuals for free. @wtnhighlander My comment may came off as critical at FreeCAD, wasn't my intention. From my first 100foot view of using it for about 2 min it seems awfully capable but appears to have a steep learning curve. I personally found fusion to be a little bit less steep (like 0.5%) but I've been using Autodesk products, much to my displeasure, for a large part of my life . Personally i think strait up AutoCAD 3D is the easiest and fastest way to do what you want but I can't find a way to get you that software for cheap let alone free.
  22. https://www.autodesk.com/campaigns/fusion-360-for-hobbyists Trimble never all of a sudden charged. They bought the software from google and then monetized it. Autodesk is a pretty decent company and will keep fusion free for startups under $100k and hobbyists and students. They know they can't make money off of the little fish at $400/year.
  23. Well it seems like they are really gunning after Fusion360, and well that is also free so....
  24. That wouldn't work for me. I have to install programs quite often. There are a ton of public domain hydraulic modeling programs that get random updates. I got FreeCAD installed I'm gonna see what this is all about.