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Everything posted by Chestnut

  1. I found a few furniture archives for both Sam Maloof and James Krenov. I've been searching for good galleries for Danish Modern or MCM furniture as it's more the style I'd like to explore next. REFERENCE POST
  2. Found some interesting information that you might be interested in @Bmac. It's possible that the chair you are interested in has dimensioned drawings of the exact chair you are interested in. They appear to have a lot of information on that site. It may be worth reaching out to them as well if you are interested.
  3. I love parts-express. I just sent an email to tech support asking a question. They were helpful and offered to replace the item even though I admitted i was abusing it. Their customer service rivals that of Lie-Nielsen.
  4. That is a beautiful speaker. I can see how the top and sides are slightly different but the major thing that saves you is that they are in different planes. With that separation 99.98% of people won't even noticed, in their brain it will just register as receiving different light.
  5. UV will speed it up but oxidizing / color change is inevitable. Hum i find it interesting that someone would go to such extents to have a commissioned product try and match perfectly with cabinetry in a rental unit. They are going to move eventually and then what?
  6. That'd be a cool patio chair. It's too heavy handed and bulky though. The arms should be thinner as well as the seat sides. It is a good design that could be made quickly and easily though.
  7. If you planned for the walnut to be long grain and the maple to be end grain you are setting yourself up for disaster. The board will expand and crack or contract and crack. Either way it will end in misery. To make the board properly everything would need to be end grain and in that case there is no bracing one wood with another as the bonds between the long grains of wood are not as strong as the long grains them selves. @wtnhighlander I agree a frame work would help support the board but it'd add an extra step to use the board over the sink and may be just enough to prevent you from doing so. You could attach said frame but then wood movement issues would become a problem especially over a 32" span. -I know it's less desirable but the thinner lighter weight and stronger long grain board would still be my go to in this situation. I'm also developing a taste for simple and would do it all in maple and maybe hire some laser time to burn in a single initial for my last name or something. (My thoughts here are mostly opinions and my tastes don't really match what's trendy so take my opinions as such and with a grain of salt.)-
  8. I've jointed 12" boards on my 8" jointer quite easily with good luck. If i got a larger jointer my planer wouldn't be big enough. For stuff over 15" wide I'd just use a router sled. Not as fast but for the 1 time a year I need it it's still faster than driving somewhere.
  9. I'd do a face grain or edge grain board. I don't get the appear for end grain. You could make a long grain board thinner and lighter and not have to worry about the size. End grain spanning 32" makes me nervous especially if you are using it to gain counter space. One heavy item set in the center could cause disaster. The glue joints aren't the worry the wood splitting is more the worry. Maybe ism over stating this and being overly cautious. This is my opinion, one of these days I should make something end grain and try and break it to see how strong it is. If you want something striking and eye catching try Some one else gave me the idea so I give credit to that person.
  10. I'd put some dye in shellac and spray on a light coat. It's going to be really hard to get a match if you can't do some trial and error. It'd be very nice if there was some piece that you could bring back with you. You'd then want to top coat the shellac with some WB poly again. It's starting to sound like too many coats. This is why I'll never promise even getting close to a color match. Other things to consider is they may match now but when the finish yellows and UV light changes the color of the poly and the wood the existing a new could start deviating in color. Depending on the wood and location this could happen quickly.
  11. Congrats to your daughter. That's an awesome project!
  12. Nice I like it. I've always been a fan of bent lamination it's a fun technique.
  13. Want to be pedantic fine I have no interest in visiting the Los Angeles-Long Beach CSA .... Nothing wrong with it, personally my tastes are more for northern CA coastline with the redwood forests. That area is like being on another planet.
  14. I was thinking maybe shoot them a phone call or email and see if they have some for internal purposes. I'd just say I was an art student studying Maloof's later work.
  15. Unfortunately I tried to find a back picture as well but was unable. This ( is the art gallery it was made for. I wonder if they have any other pictures they would share with you. Too bad it's in LA, i have little desire to go there. Found Another not very different angle. To me it doesn't look like it tapers towards the back. If you look the back rest comes strait off the rear legs but the front legs are outside the main frame. I think it just appears to be tapered because of that. Just need to get one of these.
  16. Oh that's not that much. We probably got 22" earlier this year and in the last 7 days it all almost melted. If we only had 9" I'd have grass again. I was dreaming about a brown Christmas, a white Christmas is drastically over rated.
  17. Here is another view. from It indicates that the chair was made specifically for an exhibit so there may need to be some adjustments made. The only reason i say that is, even with my youthful spry abilities, that chair looks difficult to extricate myself from. My guess is the top of the upholstery is 16" from the ground with the wood frame at 15" but you indicate you have a good idea for that. The only other thing that I see is if it's a chair with out an ottoman the seat depth looks like it'd cause a persons legs to rest against the front frame of the chair and could cause circulation problems to the feet. I don't have a ton of experience with these chairs so maybe it's ok.
  18. I want to make sure the seats end up being roughly the same so I took the template for the guild rocker seat and glued it to a board. I'll cut out the open side and use that as a template when I need to create the carved area on the seats. I also trimmed the bottom side ( the solid paper side) to the desired edge of the seat. This will allow me to get each seat close to identical. Well close enough. Each one of these chairs is going to be slightly different there is just no way around that. After that I finished my leg routing jig. I attached the clamps to the jig and added some adhesive sand paper to make sure that the leg blank wouldn't move. After I got everything set up I gave it a test run. I managed to make 2 near identical legs both of which were perfectly square in the joinery section. The trial did show me a few places where the jig could be improved. The ends of the back rest area end up being too far from the clamp and the router bit causes a bit of deflection in the wood. It's not a lot but it's enough that it makes the routing operation sketchy and caused some issues with cut quality. In the picture of the jig above I'm going to add another block and clamp to the side closest the camera. Once i get everything ironed out I'll give some more details on the jigs in use. The next major item to make is the bent lamination jig for the back rest. I thought about making the back rest bend in 2 different planes so it would support the lumbar and also cup the back, but just thinking about it gave me nightmares so i figured doing it would be even worse. So i abandoned that. I printed the back rest template from the guild dining chair plans and decided to stick with curves only in 1 plane. I'm making the bending form a bit different from other methods I've used. I read an article from FWW about making bending forms and from it i realized there is a better way than using solid lamination of plywood. The form started like all other forms I put the paper template on the front, cut out the negative shape on the band saw, then cleaned back to the lines. The change or difference is that instead of building up each layer with solid plywood, I glued pieces of wood as braces in between. The wood I ended up using is cedar scraps, I planed them clean to an even 1/2" and used 2 glued together to add a 1" space between each piece of plywood. This allows me to save a TON of plywood. Not only was I able to make the bending form more stable and stronger this way but it allowed me to use scraps I needed to dispose of, and it made it lighter. My form needs to be 8" wide and being as large as it was using solid ply it would have weighed far too much. Here is a shot of the bending form that shows the structure well. Another trick from the article is to use flexible cauls that get glued together with epoxy. These cauls will bridge any gaps that may be created due to imperfect shaping. Knowing what I know now and how well these cauls will bridge the gaps I'd have gone with 3 rows of bracing instead of 4 to save even more weight. I could have gone thicker with them as well and eliminated a row of plywood. Beings that the bendable cauls need to be glued together I'd need to simulate a true run of the form. So i planed done some redwood scraps that were destined for the fire pit to act as filler and simulate a back rest. If i didn't add material inside the cauls would glue them selves to a shape that wouldn't work once you added the laminations for the back rest into the form. This wood won't be wasted as I'll do a trial run with the redwood to see how the bending form works. I will also use it to figure out how I'm goign to cut the negative space out of each back rest. To create the cauls I used 1/8" mdf or hardboard, I'm not sure the difference between them, but it's a flexible material. I spread epoxy on the material and in hindsight may have needed to add more than I did. The surface absorbed some of the epoxy and I'm left wondering if I got a good bond. I'll find out tonight when I strip the form. My bending form did have some gaps in it. In the picture below I added some cork in areas where the hardboard was unsupported in my dry run. I also added some blue tape towards the ends where again things weren't clamping as well as they should. This is where it sits. I'm waiting at least 24 hours for the epoxy to cure. I should get a hardener that cures faster but that would reduce my open/working time. I expect it's going to take me 2-3 weeks just to cut the laminations, sand them to thickness, bend them, and then clean up the finished product. My goal thickness is 1/2" for the backrest.
  19. Didn't you already have a bunch this year? It melted already?
  20. Youngblood before it closed had some. The stuff I bought came from ND. The cabinet guy there had 1k-2k BF.
  21. Probably the same reason that i always have an extra bolt or two when i get done putting something together after I take it apart.
  22. @Bmac I worked on these yesterday and will all day today. Things are happening!
  23. You do realize that Honduras is in Latin America and is where the Honduran Mahogany gets it's name from right? Swietenia mahagoni Is the tree that was harvested in Cuba that was harvested and imported until the 1940s. It was typically harvested along side Swietenia macrophylla unknown to those doing the harvesting. Anything offered as Mahogany after 1946 was Swietenia macrophylla or Honduran Mahogany. The stock I had to pick from was 9-12' long, 12-18" wide and 6/4 - 12/4, completely clear. It was just boring it had little grain and little character. I've seen Sapele and it wasn't nearly as nice as the "genuine Mahognay" aka Honduran Mahogany. Buying quartered stock or flat sawn stock is just different sawing methods Genuine Mahogany wasn't typically quarter sawn. Sapele is a VERY different breed. It presents far more figure and it's interlocked grain produces very strong ribbon strip effect that isn't as strongly present in Cuban or Honduran Mahogany. My hands on experience is limited but after seeing the stock in person I did a lot of research Sources below. The underlined I will admit is conjecture on my part based off of my experience of touring historic houses.