Chestnut

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Everything posted by Chestnut

  1. Unfortunately I tried to find a back picture as well but was unable. This (http://www.riversideartmuseum.org/collections/) is the art gallery it was made for. I wonder if they have any other pictures they would share with you. Too bad it's in LA, i have little desire to go there. Found Another not very different angle. To me it doesn't look like it tapers towards the back. If you look the back rest comes strait off the rear legs but the front legs are outside the main frame. I think it just appears to be tapered because of that. Just need to get one of these.
  2. Oh that's not that much. We probably got 22" earlier this year and in the last 7 days it all almost melted. If we only had 9" I'd have grass again. I was dreaming about a brown Christmas, a white Christmas is drastically over rated.
  3. Here is another view. from https://www.finewoodworking.com/2009/06/12/new-exhibit-features-never-seen-before-works-by-sam-maloof It indicates that the chair was made specifically for an exhibit so there may need to be some adjustments made. The only reason i say that is, even with my youthful spry abilities, that chair looks difficult to extricate myself from. My guess is the top of the upholstery is 16" from the ground with the wood frame at 15" but you indicate you have a good idea for that. The only other thing that I see is if it's a chair with out an ottoman the seat depth looks like it'd cause a persons legs to rest against the front frame of the chair and could cause circulation problems to the feet. I don't have a ton of experience with these chairs so maybe it's ok.
  4. I want to make sure the seats end up being roughly the same so I took the template for the guild rocker seat and glued it to a board. I'll cut out the open side and use that as a template when I need to create the carved area on the seats. I also trimmed the bottom side ( the solid paper side) to the desired edge of the seat. This will allow me to get each seat close to identical. Well close enough. Each one of these chairs is going to be slightly different there is just no way around that. After that I finished my leg routing jig. I attached the clamps to the jig and added some adhesive sand paper to make sure that the leg blank wouldn't move. After I got everything set up I gave it a test run. I managed to make 2 near identical legs both of which were perfectly square in the joinery section. The trial did show me a few places where the jig could be improved. The ends of the back rest area end up being too far from the clamp and the router bit causes a bit of deflection in the wood. It's not a lot but it's enough that it makes the routing operation sketchy and caused some issues with cut quality. In the picture of the jig above I'm going to add another block and clamp to the side closest the camera. Once i get everything ironed out I'll give some more details on the jigs in use. The next major item to make is the bent lamination jig for the back rest. I thought about making the back rest bend in 2 different planes so it would support the lumbar and also cup the back, but just thinking about it gave me nightmares so i figured doing it would be even worse. So i abandoned that. I printed the back rest template from the guild dining chair plans and decided to stick with curves only in 1 plane. I'm making the bending form a bit different from other methods I've used. I read an article from FWW about making bending forms and from it i realized there is a better way than using solid lamination of plywood. The form started like all other forms I put the paper template on the front, cut out the negative shape on the band saw, then cleaned back to the lines. The change or difference is that instead of building up each layer with solid plywood, I glued pieces of wood as braces in between. The wood I ended up using is cedar scraps, I planed them clean to an even 1/2" and used 2 glued together to add a 1" space between each piece of plywood. This allows me to save a TON of plywood. Not only was I able to make the bending form more stable and stronger this way but it allowed me to use scraps I needed to dispose of, and it made it lighter. My form needs to be 8" wide and being as large as it was using solid ply it would have weighed far too much. Here is a shot of the bending form that shows the structure well. Another trick from the article is to use flexible cauls that get glued together with epoxy. These cauls will bridge any gaps that may be created due to imperfect shaping. Knowing what I know now and how well these cauls will bridge the gaps I'd have gone with 3 rows of bracing instead of 4 to save even more weight. I could have gone thicker with them as well and eliminated a row of plywood. Beings that the bendable cauls need to be glued together I'd need to simulate a true run of the form. So i planed done some redwood scraps that were destined for the fire pit to act as filler and simulate a back rest. If i didn't add material inside the cauls would glue them selves to a shape that wouldn't work once you added the laminations for the back rest into the form. This wood won't be wasted as I'll do a trial run with the redwood to see how the bending form works. I will also use it to figure out how I'm goign to cut the negative space out of each back rest. To create the cauls I used 1/8" mdf or hardboard, I'm not sure the difference between them, but it's a flexible material. I spread epoxy on the material and in hindsight may have needed to add more than I did. The surface absorbed some of the epoxy and I'm left wondering if I got a good bond. I'll find out tonight when I strip the form. My bending form did have some gaps in it. In the picture below I added some cork in areas where the hardboard was unsupported in my dry run. I also added some blue tape towards the ends where again things weren't clamping as well as they should. This is where it sits. I'm waiting at least 24 hours for the epoxy to cure. I should get a hardener that cures faster but that would reduce my open/working time. I expect it's going to take me 2-3 weeks just to cut the laminations, sand them to thickness, bend them, and then clean up the finished product. My goal thickness is 1/2" for the backrest.
  5. Didn't you already have a bunch this year? It melted already?
  6. Youngblood before it closed had some. The stuff I bought came from ND. The cabinet guy there had 1k-2k BF.
  7. Probably the same reason that i always have an extra bolt or two when i get done putting something together after I take it apart.
  8. @Bmac I worked on these yesterday and will all day today. Things are happening!
  9. You do realize that Honduras is in Latin America and is where the Honduran Mahogany gets it's name from right? Swietenia mahagoni Is the tree that was harvested in Cuba that was harvested and imported until the 1940s. It was typically harvested along side Swietenia macrophylla unknown to those doing the harvesting. Anything offered as Mahogany after 1946 was Swietenia macrophylla or Honduran Mahogany. The stock I had to pick from was 9-12' long, 12-18" wide and 6/4 - 12/4, completely clear. It was just boring it had little grain and little character. I've seen Sapele and it wasn't nearly as nice as the "genuine Mahognay" aka Honduran Mahogany. Buying quartered stock or flat sawn stock is just different sawing methods Genuine Mahogany wasn't typically quarter sawn. Sapele is a VERY different breed. It presents far more figure and it's interlocked grain produces very strong ribbon strip effect that isn't as strongly present in Cuban or Honduran Mahogany. My hands on experience is limited but after seeing the stock in person I did a lot of research Sources below. https://www.wood-database.com/wood-articles/mahogany-mixups-the-lowdown/ https://www.mcilvain.com/hardwoods/genuine-mahogany/ http://hobbithouseinc.com/personal/woodpics/_discussion_mahogany.htm The underlined I will admit is conjecture on my part based off of my experience of touring historic houses.
  10. $8-$9/ BF hardwood shop in Minneapolis and a cabinet shop in the middle of no where ND. People had always raved about how awesome and beautiful it was. The experience left me lacking and wishing I'd spent my money on walnut.
  11. I can buy Honduran Mahogany quite a few places. I have a stack of it. Are you thinking Cuban Mahogany?
  12. Got a fat stack of Bandy clamps. I've always wanted them but never wanted to pay for them. Found them on sale and asked for them. Non-woodworking gifts, i got a bunch of books i wanted.
  13. Beautiful! Not much else needs to be said. Those copper pins remind me I have A lathe and Morris chair pins that were never finished....
  14. I don't think prices are ever cheaper in cities higher demand means higher prices. Yeah it sucks.... I don't like it, so i live on the outer fringes. Country living is where it's at, but good engineering jobs are hard to find in the boonies. So I'm gonna make my money and retire to the middle of nowhere sometime in the next 35 years.....
  15. Ignore the ugly furniture, i was young and dumb. I've done a few projects that would accomplish what you are looking for. If you create a box around where the drawer goes you can have the false drawer front line up with the apron. In the picture below I used the bottom board (may be hard to see) to bridge the gap. I used a full inset drawer but you could easily set the bottom brace back enough for the false front or just use a couple braces to bridge the gap. A second picture that shows with drawers. The piece i'd set back is the board directly below the drawer. Then you'd install a false front that would cover up said board. I'd have a brace top and bottom. This will create a beam of sorts. Here is another picture of similar. Though this example used overlay drawers.
  16. Thanks. My sister doesn't follow fads or trends much she wanted something nice and timeless. These fads end up just looking dated in short time. They were very excited and happy. The first comment was "this is goign to make the kitchen FAR more useful".
  17. If you are considering adding some support to the bottom I'd do it now. Doing so later would not be easy. I personally would feel more comfortable with a 1/2" ply under neath just to add some rigidity and strength. End grain blocks like this wouldn't have as much strength as a long grain block would. My biggest concern is the 9" over hang. One 200 lb gorilla leaning on that might be more than I'd be willing to risk. Run the ply to an inch of the edge and use a bevel to make the edge harder to see.
  18. I've found that the local guy that buys them by the pallet and doesn't have to ship, often has the lowest price. Oddly after moving to the big city prices are more expensive for hardware than when i lived in the middle of no where.
  19. I'll make sure my door is unlocked. Just come right in. There should be hot pancakes and eggs.
  20. When i tilt my head 90 degrees they are right for me I assume they aren't rotated in the folder when you go to upload them?
  21. Wow that's more projects than I get done! They look great! What are the moon pins for?
  22. So i like the opposing wedges because I can make a square hole and don't have to worry about the angle pushing on just one side of the stretcher tenon.
  23. Hey those both look good. I really like your idea for your daughters bed. Is this the same kid of yours that you made the boat for?
  24. Can get a better quality cord and ends for roughly the same price. SOOW is awesome in cold weather. Most of the times I need a cord it's to run outside to charge a dead battery or get light somewhere in my garage.