Chestnut

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Everything posted by Chestnut

  1. Could you give a sentence or two describing the books or giving a suggestion? Also as this is a style reference can you list the furniture style for each book as well?
  2. If their list new price is $2,500 their 10% off price is $2,250. Personally I'd wait the little bit till the fall Powermatic sale and buy new for a hair more. Either that or try and negotiate the seller down further.
  3. Oneida has a HEPA filter retrofit kit as well. https://www.oneida-air.com/true-hepa-dust-collector-filter-retrofit-kit I want to saw there is a 3rd option but i can't remember it off the top of my head. If you don't put a cyclone in the system you'll want to clean the filter frequently. probably every other time you empty the dust bag.
  4. Isn't that a documented thing? I swore i read somewhere about glue seams creeping or the glue expanding and leaving them raised?
  5. Coop stop telling people my secrets..... Post them up and i'll get the added to the list. REFERENCE POST
  6. I got both sides of the storage rack done. I got all the boards glued and nailed in place with TB III and stainless steel brads. Beings that i want the front angled I need to cut the angle in the ends of the posts. I figured that it would be easier to do this after everything is constructed as I'd be able to cut a line with the track saw. I always forget that the track saw cut depth is 2.75" and not 3.125" either way neither is cutting through the 4x4 in one go. So i grabbed one of those odd toothed plates of steel they used to use hundreds of years ago and finished the cut. Jokes, i use hand saws quite often for random things. They really are a great tool to have in the shop. I cleaned up the cut with my #4 just to make sure the ends was somewhat even. Below is the completed side.
  7. To move 800-1000cfm through a 4" pipe the pressure difference would be beyond what consumer collectors are capable of. There isn't a single consumer grade saw that has a 6" dust port to the balde shroud. This isn't considering a sealed cabinet on a table saw and using a ZCI would never flow that much air either. Not sure where you got your numbers but they don't seem realistic for consumer grade tools. Quoting OSHA and euro industrial standards is fine but most of us are not in industrial shops nor are we using industrial tools.
  8. Even with proper jointing it happens. Saw cut joints are only 1/3rd of the way through the pavement anyway. The downfall of having to deal with pavement temps that swing from -40 to 140+
  9. Your way probably is better after all it's how RAS were designed. That said any time you make a climb cut there is slightly more danger than the alternative. The climb cut is going to give a lot better cut quality and with experience is a non-issue. I use the "recommended" method above and get OK dust collection and don't have issues with the blade binding even with twisted wood. A lot of this boils down to experience. Negative hook blades are silly.... had one and it was terrible. Felt like trying to cut a board with a butter knife.
  10. Flat, i don't really use cambered blades for anything. My smoothing planes have 1 swipe on the finest stone with a bit of extra pressure on each corner and that's enough.
  11. Will still change the movement will just take place at a slightly slower rate. Most finishes will let some small amount of air and moisture pass through. Finishes may help against very short spikes in humidity or moisture. Say the humidity jumped 50% for a week. With solid wood there is no getting around it. The only way to prevent movement is to immobilize the wood as in plywood.
  12. Congrats on the new arrival.
  13. Another thought is if the part that faces back should be enclosed or open with some cross braces? If i leave it open and spaced from the house foxes may take care of any rodents that try and make it home. I found a gut pile in my yard and a bunch of fur the other day. Either a rabbit or a squirrel became the dinner of something. Between foxes, hawks, eagles, coyotes, and my pellet gun varmints have a tough time in my area.
  14. It'd be fun to have a fellow woodworker for a neighbor. I'll let Bill know your interested in his house . He's got an insulated heated and cooled oversized 3 stall garage that would make an awesome shop. I like that thought. I might just clean up the back side of the panel to get a better glue bond and leave the front rough. I'm going to lay it out and see what i think. Yeah we get bugs here for about 5 months of the year. The other 7 months the freezing cold weather kills them pretty fast. It is a concern of mine that it will attract mice and bugs but i don't know of a way to store wood that doesn't attract pests. I'm going to apply some chemicals to the inside to attempt to keep them away. I have a lot of the pickets standing on end to dry in my shop. They are pretty dang high in MC so I'd like them to dry out some before i use them. The dryer pickets are on the rack on the wall. I'll be working on this again tonight as the head index is supposed to be 110 here today. It's a typical Houston day 95 F and an 80 degree dew point.
  15. It would be at most a trip through the planner both sides. Because It's outdoors and going to be stained I'm not going to put much effort into getting a silky smooth finish. Would a couple feet be enough or should i put it on the other side of my lot? I was leaning smooth, what makes you think rough? The rails and legs are planned smooth.
  16. I failed to mention they are stainless brad nails. Mainly just in place of clamping, tight bond 3 will be the main long term attachment. I found they also make galvanized brads but in my research galvanized isn't suggested in contact with cedar and redwood.
  17. So with the new fire pit I figure i should have a place to store firewood. The side of my house that i want to store the wood on faces my neighbor so i want the storage to look somewhat presentable. I decided on a design with a simple shed roof and that I'd make it out of cedar. I bought some 4x4s for the corner posts and decided to go with 1xs for bottom braces and the rest of the structure. For the main "siding" I guess you could call it i decided upon fence pickets as they were cheap. Using dominoes to attach the top and bottom rail for each side. To attach the siding i glued a backer board to the back of the rails to create a shelf or makeshift dado. I'll end up gluing and nialing the pickets to these. I'm not going all out with this and am going to use brad nails in many places to speed along construction. For finish i'm probably just going to use some decking/fence stain. To promote airflow to allow the lumber to dry the sides and back are going to be spaces 3/4". The roof I will attempt to make somewhat watertight though. Think i should plane all the pickets smooth or leave them rough?
  18. All of the above and the higher that you mount lights the more even your lighting will be.
  19. Oh man those door panels are awesome!!!!!! Cherry is my favorite for 2 main reasons 1 you just showed us and the 2nd is the color only gets better with age unlike a lot of woods.
  20. are you going to follow after pkinneb and do some stained glass for the shade? This is looking awesome.
  21. you reference plans. Here did you get these plans. Also how in the heck did you attach the top deck and the bottom to the internal frame?
  22. A guy won it from a raffle and had traded it in for a better model I got it for something like $850 quite a few years ago and felt like i got a heck of a deal. It had never been shot.
  23. That's awesome! Beautiful work. I really love how well the butternut and walnut work together. The end grain on the box joints get nice and dark and because the woods are so closely related it almost looks like you did a walnut inlay on the corners. I'm a millennial so pardon my ignorance, but are cigars still that common?
  24. I have also wanted to make a stand up paddle board. There are parts of your build above that are awesome and go completely over my head. Good work i hope you sare the end result. Hey now. I haven't done any wood working in at least a week. Your basement is a lot of work and is going to be awesome when it is done.