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Everything posted by Chestnut

  1. This project is great. I've always want to try and cooper some thing but never knew how it worked or how they cut the staves. Maybe with this information I could try it. So if one want to make a barrel the angle stays the same you just make the stave narrower at each end? It still seems like black magic that they can make these barrels water tight. I think He's so fast at it because you TN boys know how to make oak barrels . You got it done faster than it'd take me to wrap my mind around it.
  2. Chestnut

    Domino Time

    Your criteria and comments seem awfully subjective based off your opinion that if it's not done the way it was done 100 years ago it's not proper. I'm ok with that. To me i don't care how i make the hole in the wood. If the mortise meets specifications I don't much care if Spock cut it with a light saber.
  3. Huh .. i guess this means i lost the race. I got the finial coat of finish on today but can't do the final buff to remove nibs until tomorrow then i have to attach all the seats.
  4. Chestnut

    Domino Time

    To further illustrate. This is what I'm speaking of. Is that a traditional M&T joint? Does it mater that i made the mortise with the domino? I'm desperately trying to illustrate that the domino machine makes a mortise. It makes it really easy to do loose mortise and tenon joinery but you can use the machine to make a mortise for traditional M&T joinery. I imagine if i had the 700 I could square those corners with a chisel and make through tenons as well. I guess i could use the same reference lines flip to the other side on this piece as it's small enough. That mortise is 11.5mm x 52mm
  5. Chestnut

    Domino Time

    Again your stuck in the mindset that this fits in X box. A mortise is a mortise, if it's 2" wide and 1" deep does it matter how I cut it? If i fill it with an integral tenon would you be able to tell me how I cut the mortise? Looks stronger than the wood to me. This took an over head 2 handed smash to accomplish much like you'd swing an axe.
  6. So i have 2 prototypes, I really need my shop space back so now I need to figure out something to do with the prototypes. Naturally I decided to see how hard it would be to break. I didn't make the joinery in the prototype as stout as I did in the actual chair so i assumed it'd be easy. WRONG. I was able to balance on 1 leg while standing on the opposite side. I realized I was starting to do some really unsafe stuff so i grabbed the chair and started hitting it against the ground. It ended up taking a good 1/2 swing to break it into pieces. The interesting part was how the joienry broke. It ended up splitting the legs with a small portion of the tenon breaking off inside the mortise. So yeah I'll say these are strong enough. Do i have numbers on strength ... Nope. What I do have is the knowlege that no ordinary use or even abusive use will break the chair. It will talk a hulk hogan style swing with these things to do them in.
  7. This will be fun to see go together. I like the idea of these that allow you to get air filtration near where you need it. Maybe some day i'll make one. I know i'll try and salvage the furnace motor out of our furnace. I'll be replacing the 30 year old beast in the next couple years.
  8. Went to a box store to get some 1/2" birch. Found a sheet of 1/4" cherry in the damaged bin for $9. It's nice USA MDF core stuff that normally sells for around $42 a sheet. Most of the damage is just dirt and banged up corners. I'd say it's 95% usable with one good show side.
  9. Chestnut

    Domino Time

    Derek I hate to argue with you, as your knowledge is far and above what i will probably ever have. Why do you assume that as soon as the domino comes out that loose mortise and tenon joinery will ensue? I use my domino to make traditional M&T all of the time. 50% of my projects usually. The tool makes a mortise, very similar to a router a hallow chisel mortise a, mortising machine or hammer and chisel. It's just a mortise, how you fill that mortise with may be different. I'm not commenting to anger people or be contrary I just want a mortise machine to be viewed as a mortise machine and that's it. This tool just creates blind spots, people see it and assume it MUST be used in X manner. If someone told you, that you could only ever create rip cuts with your table saw and that it wasn't meant to do ANYTHING else you'd probably interject and have issue with that statement. To say that loose mortise and tenon joinery won't last as long may be true, are we talking 5%, 10%, 15%, 50%? Again it all comes down to glue area If my loose tenon is 50cm Long and 28cm deep and the glue bond is stronger than the wood bond how does the type of joinery impact the lifespan of that glue? I wish i had a way to test this but I anticipate that even at 30 I'll be long dead before I find out which lasts longer.
  10. If you have amazon prime watch the Grand Tour Episode on Ferarri vs Ford. Season 1 episode 6. There are a lot of antics in the episode that may or may not be for everyone. Season 3 episode 12 is another awesome one with a history bit on the porche 917. The 917 was Porche's first lemans win, and their driver was Rickhard Attwood. In the episode Richard Attwood drives the 917 from 1969 around a track racing a current F1 driver in the best 911 on the market. The 50 year old car holds it's own a lot better than you'd think. I personally love the GT40 but the 917 is just amazing. Reason I mention it is it's a similar story and some of the same people working on the cars.
  11. Well i hope this isn't a bit late. I like the look of the lift. The snap lock inserts are expensive but do you really need more than 2? Maybe 3? I'd get a large one that fits your largest bit and then the guide bushing one (I'd only buy this one if/when the need came up). Those 2 with the stock one would be more than enough for me personally. Currently i have a home made table that has a 3.5" hole in it and i don't really find myself needing it smaller. With a good flat top, most of your work pieces will span a large hole just fine.
  12. Chestnut

    What's This?

    I tried desperately to find something that fit better cause I agree it's not a strong teak but it just kept popping up searching between ring porous and semi-ring porous wood. @Mark J That pattern looks really cool I'd like to see a picture of your finished tunring.
  13. Chestnut

    What's This?

    Honestly Teak.... It's large ring porous it's the right color and it's oily.
  14. It was a new house. The only thing that really sucked was the jointer. I guess plywood is a PITA but i don't use it all that much and when i do I break it down in the garage. Moving stuff in sucks yes, but my shop is 64 degrees year round, has 9 foot ceilings, and full plumbing. Some day we might put an addition on the house. At that time i'll add on to my shop and put in a man door or something that goes strait, and to the garage or something.
  15. K now where is my pencil and tape measure ...
  16. Yes i use it to sweep off bench tops an what not. It's one of those handheld brushes that comes with a small dustpan. I was looking for that last night and couldn't find it. Thanks for letting me know where it is
  17. Yep this is mind blowing.... It looks so dang professional, I'm not surprised but just wow top notch. I find myself partial to a 14y Glenfeddich.
  18. Making the tip thicker and driving a nail out it would give a nice tip. Then when it comes to marking on the template you could just tap it to make an indent. Kinda like how a compass point is, or divider point.
  19. I think you going to have me beat, the bet only outlined the home theater. I would like to get 1 to 2 more coats of finish on each chair. Sanding between coats on 6 chairs and applying wiping poly takes roughly 2.5 hours. All the nooks and crannies are miserable. I also still have 4 chair seats to complete finish sanding on and need to apply 4 coats of finish to said seats. But If I lied and had 1 chair finished, took pictures, and said I was done who would know the difference? The theater project is incredibly involved and I am thoroughly impressed with it.
  20. Chestnut

    12/4 lumber

    The wood I get varies a lot. Some of the rough is right on. Some of it is hit/miss planed and ends up 1/8" under. I don't start to see 1/4"-1/2" under until I get into S3S but i stopped buying that because it's expensive.
  21. Yes my shop is in my basement. The table saw is pretty easy to get down there I took the top off and carried it down mounted on 2 boards with a helper. The planer I took apart as soon as I got it and carried it down with a helper in 3 parts, it wasn't so bad because it was only 300 ish lbs and wasn't an awkward shape. The jointer..... that nearly killed us. I also took it apart to move it into the shop but the beds can't really come off. So the top part with the beds and cutter head weighs probably 450 lbs and nearly put 2 of us through a wall when it started to tip over. My stairs go down about 7 steps and then turn a corner to go down about 5 more. To make the corner we had the main part stood on end it was very awkward. This reason alone is why I'm never moving. If i have to move the jointer is being sold with the house. It'd be entertaining to coat the thing in cosmoline and just build it into a secret room under the stairs or something for someone to find in 100 years.
  22. Shop smells like the finish line!
  23. Dig a basment under your shop? Buy lottery tickets? I think it'd be interesting to have a small CNC but sacrificing the space for it would be difficult. I do woodworking to stop myself from sitting behind a screen all day long so a CNC would be counter intuitive. The inlay capabilities though would be limitless.
  24. I don't remember coop. How long ago was it do you think months? Years?
  25. I guess i disagree on Stanley vintage prices on ebay. I feel they are about the same now as they were 5-6 years ago but you have to be diligent. There are plenty that are trying to sell their planes for a premium but when you check recently sold those absurd prices don't show up as much. You should be able to get a decent vintage #5 for 50 including shipping. It will require some cleaning and tuning work. Others have mentioned a hand plane made by grizzly as being a good scrub plane. But i think you are off a bit on wanting a #6. Unless you are jointing boards over 2.5-3 times the length of the sole of the plane you don't really need to go longer. A #5 is 14". a #4 is 9.5-10?