Chestnut

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Everything posted by Chestnut

  1. Yeah that doesn't sound like it hold up to random alcoholic beverages being spilled on it. It'd be easy for me to refresh but I'm not the end user. The people i sell these too use them camping and outside so i need a finish pretty bullet proof.
  2. Drop it off at my place i can make sure that doesn't happen. Especially as I'm using every excuse to not work on the chairs.
  3. Check the side of your RK for burs and file them down with a diamond plate. Your RK blade should give a better cut surface than a wood slicer. I have both and once i had the RK tuned there is no matching it.
  4. I'm gonna finish those chairs .... just you wait.... maybe by 2030.
  5. How cheap is cheap? I don't think I've been able to find soft close for less than $15 per drawer. It doesn't really work to ask for walnut and expect to pay poplar prices. https://www.wwhardware.com/titus-soft-close-device-for-drawers The above link is to a soft close mechanism that you would pair with the regular garbage budget slides. (I'm bitter i have 5 failed drawers with those slides in my kitchen and i can't replace them because they are nailed in...) Otherwise these https://www.wwhardware.com/catalog/product/view/id/24268/s/blum-tandem-edge-series/category/850/ are $15 if you buy more than 8. (with the necesary clips) Another site with soft close under mount slides. https://www.woodworkerexpress.com/Undermount-Slides/?sort=price&sort_direction=0 The 12" slides are inexpensive, you could always put a larger drawer on a smaller slide? Not sure if that works with under mount i know it does for side mount. I honestly never use under mount, don't really get the hype.
  6. With all the little dimples in the board it's really really hard to brush. Each spot grabs a bunch of finish off the brush and causes a buildup in the hole. Shellac is a great idea as is lacquer, I'm also not sure how well they'll hold up over time with it being a heavy use item like a board game.
  7. Yeah spaying indoors so solvent is out unfortunately. I can't spray outside as its like 8F. I lugged the hvlp in from the shed. I'll just have to do it this way. Maybe i had a defective can. I'll see if i can return it. After it dried the surface finish was garbage and I'll have to sand it off.
  8. I did PVC and boy am I glad that I did. Megan's work has been harassing her about relocating. I told her heck no! I don't want to have to redo my dust collection system.... Well and the very minor aspect of moving my jointer...
  9. I needed to spray one of those game boards I make. I didn't want to lug in the HVLP for 1 board and make a mess of the shop so I figured I'd just use the rattle can version and knock it out fast. WRONG. The stuff in the aerosol can is awful. I spent more time trying to get enough down to flatten out than it would have taken me to brush on from the can. If I didn't lay down a heavy coat the surface finish would have looked like 60 grit sand paper. I don't want to give a complete don't buy because it has it's place. It is still marginally easier than digging out my HVLP and spray proofing my shop though. The over spray from the can is less than from the HVLP so i guess it could be used in tighter quarters. Has any one had good luck with any aerosol polyurethane?
  10. I don't think that the right tilt will be any more or less convenient that a left tilt. For bevel operations that require the fence close to the blade you will just have to move the fence to the left side of the blade. There really is nothing saying that your table saw top has to extend to the right of the blade. You could put the longer extension win to the left. Honestly for some operations that might not be a terrible idea but that might depend on your shop setup.
  11. I was making a handle for real this time and figured out a good tip. Make sure your fill material is if anything slightly under. I found that i could put a clamp along the length and close a slight gap. If the material is too wide it holds the kerf open and you don't get a good glue bond in the center. DAMHIK. I don't want to talk about it.
  12. I was thinking once i get sick of my joke knobs on my bench it might be interesting to see If i could make this work there. I might make the knobs a bit larger than they currently are but I'd be OK with that. I want to try some segmented stuff but my trouble right now is i have other things I should be working on.
  13. Just gonna throw this one out there. If you can get access to a bunch of free computer monitors.
  14. Part of the motivation to explain this was the fact that my sources didn't do a good job of explaining it. I agree the other fill options are a good idea this was just a quick test. I may prep some material in the future. The stuff i used to do this was material i use for splines which might also benefit from the look.
  15. Wow the Kumiko looks awesome! Defiantly tedious but the end result is pretty neat. Are each of the lengths unique or are you able to batch some stuff out? Being able to batch out would make it a lot easier. I don't know if I should laugh, be offended, or take this as a compliment .
  16. I've been watching too much Frank Howarth wood turning lately but from it I stumbled upon the Celtic Knot on youtube and it looked both easy and awesome. Much more attainable than some of the things Howarth does. Beings that not many turners post her I figured why not create a dedicated post. I found a tutorial that makes it really easy. You start with a piece of square stock and set your miter gauge to 45 or 60 degrees. Really I'm not sure the angle matters a whole lot the outcome will just look a bit different. Se your blade height so you don't cut all the way through. Leave about 1/8" of material. Have a stop block set or if your fancy like me and have one of these over the top miter gauges use the built in stop. First cut. Then take some wood or something else that you have prepped to your saw kerf width. I'm using birch stock and walnut fill. To glue the filler in get CA glue in the slice as well as coat the sides of the infill piece. I used gloves to prevent myself from having to call for help after gluing myself to my table saw or something. After the in fill piece is in I hit the outside of the piece with some activator and sanded everything flush with my belt sander. Yes i have a belt sander, no I don't use it often, this is the first time in about 2 years. After the first cut rotate the stock 90 degrees spindle style and make a 2nd cut. Same thing with CA glue on the infill and belt sanding. This is what my piece looked like after rotation 90 degrees. You can also see the miter gauge setup and stop block After the infill is glued and flushed. Rotate 90 degrees again spindle fashion, cut, fill, sand. This is what it looks like before the 90 degree rotation. As you can see the saw blade is lined up on the walnut from the previous cut. I was rotation counter clock wise from the picture below's perspective. Make sure to always rotate the same direction either clockwise or counter clock wise (anti-clockwise if your from Europe). After 3rd cut. The other side. As you can see the top face does not have a diagional. My last cut will position that side down. After all 4 sides are cut you should have a top line and bottom line with a diagonal on each side. You would see an X if you use other methods where you cut all the way through but those methods leave you with a more difficult glue up. Once you turn the area down a bit you'll see this. This was just a test. It only took me about 2 hours from first picture to last picture. Gotta love how fast you can make things on the lathe.
  17. On this installment, I worked on the benches for the bench as well as the lumber for the bench seats and the table top. The lumber I'm working with, as I've mentioned, is on the thinner side. Most of the pieces are at 13/16" in the rough. It was dried outside in a pile that wasn't really laid flat not stacked particularly well. Getting strait lumber over 36" long has been tricky and requires a good selection process to find nearly strait boards, which there are few, or removing material to the point where the boards are quite thin. I need some parts 50-51" long so drastic measures were necessary. For the rails of the bench i ended up with some bowed and twisted wood. I rough cut the boards to size to minimize as much jointing as necessary. In the end i only ended up with about 9/16" material. For a bench structure that made me a bit uncomfortable, so i glued a piece to the back but only on the ends for joinery. The long rails are 3.75" tall so i know bending strength wise they will be ok but I'm worried about joinery. In the picture above you can see how i added material to be able to get a tenon in the rails in a way that doesn't leave a very thin skin over the floating tenon. This worked out well and stiffened the boards a bit as well. Because the short rails were only 9" long, I was able to mill a hair over 3/4 material there so i didn't have to double up on those. After milling and mortises it was just a simple glue up. The table top and bench seats were another trick. Some of the boards I have are pretty wide at 9.5". Unfortunately just like everything else they have some serious cup and twist. The nice part about cup and twist is that ripping the boards narrower not only allows them to fully fit on my jointer but it also reduces the amount of wood needing to be removed to eliminate the cup and twist. So now that i took some 105" long 10" wide boards and made them 52" x 5" we're good to go. My goal is to keep the boar parts together and then glue them back together after jointing in hopes that the seam down the middle of the board isn't noticeable. For the most part it worked out quite well. One bench i needed to reduce half of one board down to 2.5" wide because it was just that twisted. Then some epoxy knot filling. The board below has 4 glue lines on it. The table top it's self worked out much better. I cleaned it up with a card scraper and it looks pretty dang good. My plan is changing for the better. I was able to keep the table top thick enough that I'm not going to add material to the edge to make it look thicker. I'm just going to leave it as is and give it less of an edge treatment.
  18. Wow these are going to be quite the quick Christmas gifts. I thought that my Quick table and benches was going to be a lot. You know you only have like a week left right? I'm starting to get worried that finish will be cured in time.
  19. are they anything like these hoses? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0197S2LJ8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Just curious. When i get a few $$ i'm gonna trust you guys and try one of these flexzilla things. I need another air hose for replacing tires. It's nice to not have to move my aircompressor.
  20. How do the flexzilla's handle cold? My big issue is that when it's -10 is usually when i need to fill a tire and want my air hose easy to work with.
  21. This on is staying pretty close to the design. Last night I was working on getting the rails for the benches milled and joinery cut. Tonight and this weekend will be seats for the benches and the top for the table. I need to mill everything as the material just dipped under 10% MC. I've had to be strategic because humidity is dropping in my house fast. Just this week it went from 45% to 35%. I do have my acclimation pile located in such a way that the furnace blows on it. So i can dry wood pretty fast, but it can't enter that pile tuneless it's down to 18%-20% or it'll dry too fast.
  22. I agree with avoiding the urathane ones. Also to add they don't seem to flow as well as the 3/8" rubber. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0030EU5Y4/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_7?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1 The above is what i use, rubber 50' good year. Probably the same hose in Chet's reel just without the reel. That is if reels aren't your thing.
  23. If you buy land make sure you do all the research on the land before you buy. Check with the county/township/city to make sure you can get a building permit on the property. I can't tell you how many times I've had to have tense conversations with a person that bought a parcel before realizing that they couldn't get a building permit on it for various reasons (access, hydric soils, flooding, ect.). If you are in doubt call planning and zoning and ask first. Make sure to check the ordinances, they may not allow you to do things in the order you want, eg build shop first and house second. Get familiar with websites like this for example. https://www.sierracounty.ca.gov/487/New-Residential-Construction This is Sierra County just north of Tahoe. More often than not the county is going to be the zoning and building authority. Some times that gets delegated to the city/township but that is more typical in dense urban areas but not necessarily always true. Example of Zoning from same county https://sierra.county.codes/SCC/15.10 Note that if you build a shop with living quarters, if the shop has garage doors it may be considered a garage and footprint limits will be enforced. Personally I'd buy a lot with a house and a garage and then build a shop/secondary dwelling. To do the shop and secondary dwelling in 1 from my example county you will be limited. It honestly seems that a separate house, shop, secondary dwelling would be the best cost effective way to go. This will vary by county. My opinion is that additions to buildings are generally less strict than accessory buildings for size requirements. I'd consider making the shop an addition to the primary dwelling building it to said primary dwelling standards as am "entertainment room" and when sale of the house happens in the distant future it could add more value than a detached shop. Just a thought not necessarily a good one. I do like my shop in the house though. Edit: I got off on a tangent. I think the most cost effective way would be house with garage, build detached shop, secondary dwelling could either exist or not but i think having the shop separate from secondary dwelling makes most sense. This way your shop would''t need to meet conditioned space building codes which may be more strict than accessory building codes. (I don't know CA building codes). You may want to build to those standards but it would allow you to do it over time and complete some of the work your self. So probably A) would be your best bet but make sure that you can build the secondary dwelling and accessory building for the shop all on the same lot. Also keep in mind codes change and if you wait too long to build the shop zoning may change to limit what you can do.
  24. How are you making it square. I get a machinist square and hold the fence and square to the blade and then tighten the screws. leaving the screws with a bit of snugness so you have to tap the fence to make the adjustment helps as well. I got both of mine dialed in so over a 4' cut (using 5 cut method) they were 1/32" out of square this way and called that good enough.