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Everything posted by Chestnut

  1. My bet is Norway maple. My Norway doesn't turn red and the bark looks like an ash tree. WAG, probably 50/50 heart sap. Maple heart wood is a light to medium brown almost the color of fresh hickory. The pith is very small 1/8" either side of center but that's probably more than enough. More if the pith wanders around but for the small stuff you are thinking about that's less likely.
  2. I use compound on my stop and think it makes a world of difference. I use a horse butt stop from tools for working wood. I know Shannon Rodgers has talked about it a lot. The leather is nice and sturdy and i find I don't need to attach it to anything. I also stop my kitchen knives with another strop that is dedicated to kitchen use. It turns cutting tomatoes from being a chore into a pleasure.
  3. Information on teak color change. Another thing to keep in mind is that all wood is a natural product and is going to have color variation from one board to another. Even in the same tree wood will exhibit color variation. The odds are higher that the veneer is from an old growth Forrest and the boards are from the plantation stock. Though plantation lumber is a good thing as it's given optimal conditions to grow under and the forests undergo proper maintenance to allow for better lumber with fewer defects. If you wan your color to match perfectly veneer the other parts of your work with the same veneer that you are using for the cabinet. You can mess around with dyes but they will adjust and alter how the wood changes color with time and will probably make the 10 year result uneven. The other option is to accept that wood is a natural product and contains various colors and appreciate it's natural beauty. If you want a man made manufactured look a natural product may not be the best choice.
  4. Trying new finishes is fun to me. There are quite a few that I've identified that I WANT to try but cant' because they are just too dang expensive.
  5. A new iron should always be flat. If it's not flat it should go back. The big trouble with the ruler trick is removing the bur. With a flat back i flip the iron over and 1 swipe takes care of it. Also i use a strop so the ruler trick would make stropping a pain. That said I'm fully in support of people using the method that works. If the ruler trick works for you and you are getting results in a fast enough manner than go to town. I just advise against it because it removes the benefits of having a flat back on a chisel and hand plane iron.
  6. Chestnut

    New Table Saw

    This reminds me of my dealings with warranty work and my 1 year old GM vehicle. Constant finger pointing, and I'm stuck with a defective product.
  7. This is just what i remember from stumbling across the ruler trick from time to time. It's used to create a clean cutting edge in the event that the back of the plane or chisel is damaged and you have nicks or scratches on the back of the iron. The other application is in the event that the back of the iron isn't flat and the cutting edge is curved slightly down or up depending on your point of view. The ruler trick helps overcome these issues without having to buy a new iron. My opinion is that plane irons are cheap and go buy a new better one.
  8. Also on second look, I like to have a forward fence to increase the rigidity of the sled.
  9. You did not sell that as a cross tie ....
  10. I like to use hardwood or plywood for sled fences as i feel they have better rigidity performance compared to MDF. They also will take a screw and not break apart like yours did. Your fence looks nice and fancy though. Mine is ugly enough to work as a halloween prop.
  11. If you do some of the shaping like Bmac points out before you glue the seat up it really speeds things up. I was able to get the seat carved more accurately more quickly using his method.
  12. This is the one that marc recomends on friday live. Or here I personally use and quite like it except the depth stop can damage the wood surface if you aren't careful.
  13. I think if you are doing this commercially you really need to contact the manufactures for the products you are using and get their recommendations on the proper means and methods. Most of what people on this form use is furniture related and the flooring products are quite foreign to us. As a note all shellac is dissolved in alcohol. The alcohol evaporates and leaves the shellac on the surface of the wood. A de-waxed shellac removes the wax from the shellac resin. Shellac comes in flakes of various colors blonde Amber and garnet from light to dark respectively. Each of the colors are offered from various suppliers in waxed and de-waxed varieties. You can mix your own or buy a commercially available product. Most of us are located in North America and the products we have available could be vastly different from those offered in other parts of the world.
  14. I'm not sure what the products you are referring to are. If you are going to apply a shellac, make sure that it's dewaxed. If you use a shellac that isn't dewaxed the wax will not allow the varnish to adhere and it will flake off over time. Dewaxed shellac is labeled , so if it's not stated it's not dewaxed.
  15. Huh, no one ever wants to hang out in my shop long. I think they are all afraid I'm going to put them to work or something.... My dad put a cup down on cast iron. I explained to him that it could leave a rust ring on the cast iron and he never did it again. He gets a pass on all non-safety shop rules as he had to put up with me messing up all his things for a good 12 years. Now that i have my own shop i get his frustration with me when i was a teenager.
  16. Welcome, i love the wood turnings. I'm trying to stay away from buying a lathe so thanks for not helping with that. They may need to be rotated on your computer/phone before you upload.
  17. What I would do is remove the middle bulge from both of the legs. Create an even curve that goes in from top to bottom on each side of each leg. I'd do the same on the stretcher underneath. I like the curly maple wedge idea and the painted base with wood top as well. Another option is a diluted paint. I've done this before on pine where i mixed paint 50/50 with water and it ended up looking like an old fashioned whitewash. (I chose white but i suppose any color would work) The wood grain still showed through but it still had a feel of paint. Kind of the best of both worlds. Shou Sugi Ban is all the rage right now. Could be a consideration as well, though it's not without it's major risks.
  18. +1 This is a very very important thing!
  19. LED lights are awesome. There are some I get from the box store that are like $15 each and they work awesome. I don't know if you follow Mattias Wandel but his advice about placing lights at random angles is money. It really helps prevent shadowing as the lights aren't placed parallel to benches or objects. If you want i can probably dig out the video where he explains it well. My dad had a dust collector like that too. For some reason he always complained about it talking back to him....
  20. I would use a spray bottle to raise the grain on the whole chair and then sand back smooth. After you wet the grain and sand smooth the wood shouldn't raise again. If you want to play it safe you could try wetting the surface again to see what happens. You could use alcohol with the dye, the fumes will be pretty strong. I wouldn't use lacquer thinner, it will probably work but the fumes would be deadly. Even coloring is going to be achieved by an even coat of a well dispersed dye. The dye mixes well in water and alcohol and not so well in oil solvents aka mineral spirits. If you want a perfect application I highly suggest to apply the dye via HVLP. Maple blotches in a not so attractive way sometimes so that is something that doesn't suit the best to wiping but isn't an issue spraying. I don't think you'd need something like a Fuji, a conversion gun would probably work great but I'd practice. Best part is you can practice with water and raise the grain at the same time. Also applying dye with the shellac is possible but it can be tricky as well. If you get a dry edge and overlap you could get dark lines etc. Drips while applying on the chair may be very hard to manage. That said Dave did a bang up job above.
  21. I use a micro bevel on the bevel side of the iron. I much prefer a micro bevel on the bevel side to the ruler trick as it allows me to remove that micro bevel should I choose. Sharpening is something that takes some practice to become good at. Once you figure it out it gets easier and your results get much better. Something that goes a long way in helping go over that last edge is stropping. I know this is as highly debated as is the ruler trick but plain and simple i get great results from it. A leather strop and some compound will take a sharp blade and make it razor sharp. Following someone's method is a good start but don't be afraid to find your own method that works for you after all everyone is different and what works for you may not work for me.
  22. That vanity is quite interesting I like it.
  23. SS on aluminum, I wonder if that body isn't going to wear down over time and lose it's ability to lock or lose it's square. I'd never make a tool like that out of aluminum, At first I was hoping they were red stainless or something.
  24. The back slats jig takes a bit of trial and error i found on mine. My slats were long enough that I was able to do the testing on the ends of one of the slats to get things dialed in. I then cut them to length and did the tenons.
  25. I'm not quite close on symetry yet. It looks uneven. I was goign to use a quick template like Marc does in the rocker video just to give a good starting point. I was hoping to make more progress on both of my current projects but it's still in the peak busy time of year for me. It's also peak fishing season and i haven't been out once yet.... I should move my boat further in the driveway so i can't help but hook up to it and take off.