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Everything posted by Chestnut

  1. I'd use a bandsaw with as thin of blade as you can get. I'd make the cut with a resaw king blade not clean up either side and glue it back together and i'd bet you'd have a hard time finding the sea. Board selection is critical as well. Some grain patterns no matter the thickness the material removed will look disrupted.
  2. I haven't worked on a project that requires them yet but soon. I'm going to make a handtool cabinet based off of Matt Cremona's guild design just like the couple current builds on here. My narrowest chisel before this was an 8mm i think so fairly wide. It was also fairly thick so yeah. I could probably have made it work but i didn't want to. I wanted a set of 3 nice Japanese chisels and if i was going to do it i might as well get the dovetail profile. I can confirm what Derek said about the white steel on these chisels they take an edge that is unlike anything in my shop. Other than maybe the old O1 steels but they go dull quite fast.
  3. Goober I'm sorry to hear about your injury but i appreciate that you shared it with us. It's not always easy to share mistakes like that but if it helps one person to be more careful it might making sharing something like that worth it. It's reminded me to be more careful so thank you. I wish you a speedy recovery.
  4. Movie reference. Big daddy with Adam Sandler.
  5. Cherry and walnut go together like lamb and tuna fish.
  6. I send out anything carbide to be sharpened. If it's tool steel of HSS I'd sharpen it myself. Steel is better to stay on top of and keep the edge razor sharp. If you don't damage the edges and stay on top of things a 1,000 & 6,000 grit stone is all you'd need with a strop for that final edge. There are a lot of schools of thought on sharpening and none of them are wrong. There are a lot of jigs for sharpening out there. Most of them work great. Depending on where you are located, it's possible there are woodworking groups that will put on presentations and hands on how-to classes. Sharpening is usually covered a few times a year around here.
  7. I have a small compressor that is rated for continuous duty would adding a larger air cylinder to the system help? I know the air compressor can only flow so much but i was thinking a larger tank might even things out enough.
  8. I don't know anything about the finish you are using but I'd pare the droplet off with a sharp chisel, sand the area flat, scuff the entire object and give it a light coat being careful not to do this again. When i finish the game boards i make (pictured below) I spray finish in the holes witch leaves a raised area around them. I let the poly dry and then sand it flat with 400 grit. I do a single coat on top of that.
  9. Welcome looks like a good solid table.
  10. Well I've done enough projects that very little of what i do is new so that helps the pace huge. I'd say i put maybe 35 hours of work into the whole thing. That may be a high estimate because i don't really track my time on such things. I also usually work on a couple projects at once to minimize wasting time while glue dries.
  11. Lol, the mental image of watching a guy swinging away trying to split a log that just won't yield is entertaining.
  12. It's mounted to the wall through the back to studs. That was a pain. The studs were steel and the sheetrock was 2 layers of 5/8" fire so finding the studs was difficult. I cut the miters are my table saw with my cross cut sled. With a little testing i'm sure i could have done it with the track saw as well.
  13. Chestnut

    HVLP Dye

    It's an interior only finish so no. General does make outdoor oil which i've used and is ok they also make outdoor 450.
  14. Chestnut

    HVLP Dye

    I've used it on the aggravation game boards that i make and it holds up to abuse well. The boards get slid around on tables transported in cars and used at campsites. It's a beautiful finish that is only tarnished by it's price tag. But i don't use it on them unless they are for me as i only make about $15 per board for a few hours of work.
  15. I recently had a friend request to have a media console made. He moved in to a hip condo downtown that was a remodeled space in some factory or warehouse. I asked him what style he wanted he sent me a picture we decided on dimensions and i started building. I got to pick the wood. Beings that i didn't really care to do oak and stain and light wasn't what he desired cherry was the obvious choice. I didn't take many pictures of the construction because it was very similar to the drawer system i made for my closer but I thought the end result would be appreciated. In the following picture you can see the completed case. I used 1/2" Cherry procore ply. It had a center core of fir surrounded by 2 mdf cores that had the cherry veneer on top. I picked up the ply off craig's list for a mere $35 a sheet. I used some home sawn edge banding to make the front edges. The top corners were mitered. It was my first time doing a long miter like that and i'm quite happy with the result. It was the biggest source of stress for the project. For ease of construction the back was 3 pieces and i glued everything together starting from 1 side to the other. Planning everything was tricky and fun. The holes on the bottom are for fans to cool the central cabinet. He didn't want any shelves. The dimensions of the sides are 20" x 20" x 12.5" deep. The only other thing that my friend insisted on was that the front had to have continuous grain. He originally thought plywood but my first thought jumped to how I would edge plywood and make that look good. My 2nd thought was where i'd get 3/4" ply beings that the one yard that i knew carried it had closed. I found another yard but learned that it would be cheaper to do solid wood. Luckily i knew of some 10.5" wide cherry boards that were just what the doctor ordered. I found some nifty brushed aluminum and to maintain the clean lines mortised them into the door. Here is a shot that shows the side and the top highlighting the most important miter. This is the first thing you'll see walking into the condo from the front door. Because of the lenght i wasn't able to do a waterfall edge :(. He wanted it to be 7' long and 20" tall so ..... that was a missed opertunity. And i was holding what i think is the best for last. The continuous grain front. To make sure that i maintained the continuous grain but also didn't short my self on material i made the center doors as 1 unit and cut the whole thing an inch long. I dind't know how the kerf was going to shake out and didn't want to take risks. Luckily i noticed that there was some strain grain between doors 3 and 4 if you number left to right that would allow me to loose at least an inch if needed with out being noticeable. So i did just that. Other wise the other doors are separated by a kerf width. I don't think the picture does it justice so if it seems life it falls short it may just be the crappy camera phone picture. I'll someday get a better one with the TV in place for scale. I also added in some cable management as well as a permanently mounted power strip that is wired in place. I don't really like making money off my friends but this one made me a good chunk. I priced fair but scored some cheep material.
  16. Chestnut

    HVLP Dye

    I snapped a few pictures of the completed board today in the sunshine for those that are interested in the final result. The dye looks very purple in direct sunlight but more brown in shadded areas.
  17. This is the one you accelerated the aging look on right? How long was it allowed to dry between aging the cherry and applying the poly?
  18. Chestnut

    HVLP Dye

    I used the 1.3mm standard cap. It's all i have. Fuji's site suggests the 0.8 mm cap set for dyes but i found what i had worked well enough. Shellac is a different story. They suggest the 0.8mm - 1.0mm and i can see how that would improve the finish. Shellac dries so fast getting enough on the surface fine enough to level out but not too much so that it runs is tough. I should note i used the shellac more as a color additive to add a hair of amber and less as a barrier. Beings that i was solely spraying i could have gotten away with going from WB dye to WB poly. Next time I'm going to try adjusting the color with dye and doing just that. I don't like spraying shellac. Cleaning the gun is a pain, the stuff dries so fast and the nooks and crannies are difficult to clean. The over spray cloud is nasty and left the close adjacent surfaces gritty feeling. I'd also agree with Jewitt. Unfortunately I didn't have the luxury of that kind of time. I raised the grain, applied the dye, and shellac all between getting home late from work and before i went to bed so 6pm to 9pm, on a humid day to boot. I only put 1 thin coat of shellac down and figured with 24 hours of dry time that it would turn out ok, and it did. If this was furniture and not corn hole board's i wouldn't have taken the risk. As i noted above I put the boards to use very quickly. I started setting up to spray the WB poly at 4:30 pm had both coats on by 5:15 pm and was using the boards at 5:45pm. Nothing but HIGH praise for Endurovar.
  19. It looks short or is that just illusion? If you struggling for time i'd spare us the details on the dovetails and try and make it to your show. Like you said you've documented it here already in awesome detail.
  20. Chestnut

    HVLP Dye

    So I've been meaning to try spraying dye with my hvlp as a means to do something with the curly maple that i have. Megan doesn't like light colored wood, or light colors in general so using maple becomes difficult as I don't care for the blotchy look from wiping on dye. Recently i had a request for some corn hole boards and figured I'd use this as a good opportunity to try out some hvlp dyeing. I figured I'd share with you all my process to either get some good feedback to get better or to help someone else along. I should start with my test pieces. I wanted to make sure that this was going to work the way I had in mind. So I took a pint of water and took approximately 1 tbsp of Transfast powered dye and made my spray solution. I wanted to test multiple things: how well that mixture would cover, how far a pint would go, if there would be any blotching, if it would cover without running, would i need to put down a barrier coat of shellac. So i sprayed on the water dye solution and it laid down evenly no splotching, but not quite the color i wanted. Rockler was closed and I didn't have time to run and get anything or order something anyway so i just dealt with it. Because i was spraying on bare wood there was good coverage and no running. The color was also good and dark. I thought i had taken pictures of the test pieces but it turns out i hadn't. I started with raising the grain with water. I may not have done this well enough because after the dye the surface was quite rough again, more later. I sanded back to 320 with the ROS and let the boards dry for about an hour (not nearly enough). The top of the boards are maple ply, the good American stuff not the #@$(@ import stuff from that one country we love to hate. I edge banded the tops larger than needed and flush trimmed them to the base. With everything prepped i mixed up a solution of water and Transfast powered dye. I used Dark Mission Brown, because that's the only color i had and it fit the request of Megan, aka the client. I mixed approximately 1 tbsp with a pint of hot water. The previous day I did my tests was sunny with no wind. The day i sprayed was windy and rainy so i had to move the vehicles out of the garage. I laid down the dye a little bit lighter than i had for my test pieces. I also had an idea for solving the color issue. I figured some yellow would help tone down the blue that i wasn't liking. I let the dye dry for an hour or so while i cleaned the gun then loaded up some dewaxed shellac. After i sprayed the shellac on the boards were very blue and hazy.... dang. I figured it was just some traped water from the grain raising and dye that i didn't allow to dry off. I also noticed that the surface was very rough. Not sure if it was raising grain again or if I'm just no good with shellac. Either way i brought them inside and down to my shop where the humidity was low to dry. The following day they had dried and the blue has had disappeared. I brought them outside again and sprayed them with 3 heavy coats of endurovar. I was having friends over for grilling and yard games so i was iffy on these being dry in time. 35 min later the endurovar was dry and hard to the touch. So i set them up and we threw bags at them not an hour after the last coat of finish went on. Man i love water borne poly out of an HVLP. I got compliments on how smooth the finish was. Gun settings, i turned the needle vale all the way off and then came back 3/4 of a turn. The fan setting was set halfway between full fan and spot. HVLP is a Fuji MM4 & gravity feed gun. I used this setting for both the dye and the WB poly. For the shellac i went to 1 full turn as it wasn't laying down as wet as i'd have liked. It looked like it was half dry and hitting the surface.
  21. I had a blue haze recently under some shellac i sprayed. It was moisture. I only had 1 light coat on the haze worked it's way out over night. I've also had wiping poly haze in rougher areas. Is the area kind of rough to the touch? For these some extra coats in that area solved the problem. It filled in the roughness and cut the haze.
  22. We have honey locust trees around here as well. I'd like to grab one some day and chainsaw mill it just to see how nasty it is compared to something like the exotics or hickory.
  23. Ahh I see it now.... how could i have been so blind.
  24. Gotta figure out those jointer tricks. I was using some 10-11" lumber the other day just fine on my 8" jointer. I draw the line at 12" material, it gets hard to fit through my 13" planer with the hook sled at that point. I don't mind the look of the chair originally but it's going to look better with curves. I assume you are goign to do a sculpted seat?