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Everything posted by Chestnut

  1. I guess i disagree on Stanley vintage prices on ebay. I feel they are about the same now as they were 5-6 years ago but you have to be diligent. There are plenty that are trying to sell their planes for a premium but when you check recently sold those absurd prices don't show up as much. You should be able to get a decent vintage #5 for 50 including shipping. It will require some cleaning and tuning work. Others have mentioned a hand plane made by grizzly as being a good scrub plane. But i think you are off a bit on wanting a #6. Unless you are jointing boards over 2.5-3 times the length of the sole of the plane you don't really need to go longer. A #5 is 14". a #4 is 9.5-10?
  2. Seems like a PITA to use. I just flick the wheel on my benchcrafted
  3. Where i grew up miles upon miles of road ditches would be flooded. No need to get the boat we just hopped on water skis behidn the pickup. It's funny how must pickups have a really awesome place to fasten the tow rope.
  4. Um turn the damage into a feature and try something like inlay? I'm not sure the end resting place for the table but if you damaged the show side you could try a bowtie inlay or even something a bit more complicated. For the edge, that's a bit more difficult I think some of the others above have had good advise.
  5. Looks like a great space. You folks with your big overhead doors make me a bit envious.
  6. Not necessary. I've experimented with sacks or boxes under plastic on the counter in the sun it's all about the same. Big thing is if ones start to go rotten to get them away asap. it might happen to 1 or 2 out of 100.
  7. Sure will. Place them somewhere cool ish like 65F and in 1-2 weeks they'll taste like they just came off the vine. I ripened about 20 lbs of green ones like this. The pasta sauce they made is amazing.
  8. Ya know how ladies get mad when you leave the seat up ....
  9. That's incredible! I really like the idea of a water scape inlay that's cool.
  10. My favorite is the hippo, I'm not sure why but it conveys a personality and I like it. The ostrich and giraffe I really like as well.
  11. Don't ever do it with a table saw. I'm sure there are plenty of reasons you shouldn't do it with a bandsaw too... i just don't know those reasons. If you have questions or want more details let me know i have more pictures that I didn't share in the B roll.
  12. Chestnut


    That No 8 is worthless you should just send that to me and I'll dispose of it for you. j/k They are defiantly worth using if you are willing to put in the effort to clean them up. They are worth selling as well if that's the route you decide to go. I'd suggest cleaning them off before posting them for sale. A clean tool will fetch 25% more than a dirty tool. I don't know if they are worth a ton, I'm not sure about the production the 8's but it looks like there are some missmatched parts on it though that could be how they came. Does the small stanley in picture 4 have a number? It looks like a no 3, that and the 8 are probably the most valuable of the bunch. I don't know much about the sargents.
  13. Interior or exterior? Interior middle of the road I really like Varathane Satin, It's a high quality finish that i have a hard time differentiating between General Finishes High Performance. General Finishes High Performance is the sky is the limit finish. One is $13/qt the other is well not.
  14. Seat carving process has started and it is going a LOT faster than I thought it would. I was able to get the first seat done in 4 hours and that wasn't overlapping glue drying time. If I do other operations while glue is drying I could easily get that down further but I won't bother timing it because it doesn't really matter. First step is to select material. I had some nice 10" wide boards from my order of 6/4 Cherry. I figured I'd use 2 pieces to make the seat. In order to do the pre-sculpting though that board gets hacked into parts to be glued back together. Spoiler the grain turned out quite nice despite cutting and gluing back together. I'll be able to spot the glue seams but an average observer probably won't look close enough. In the picture above the center of the board is missing. The pre-sculpting works best of the center of the seat is a board about 4" wide. This sets up the pommel area, as well as the main seat area. To make the 4" center I took 2" off of each board, jointed and glued them together to make a 4" board. To start of the pre sculpting and ensure the chairs end up roughly similar, i made a template with index marks to make sure that the profile is accuraly placed on the center board of each chair. The profile is then cut on the band saw. To set the pomel area I needed to cut an angle. I didn't want to tilt my band saw table to do this as that would be a hassle as I use the glue up time to back out the milling for the next seat. Also this doesn't allow the wood to sit long in a partially milled state which may cause movement I don't want. The angle was achieved by setting my fence at 2_1/8" and using a 1" spacer. After the center board is pre-sculpted, I align all the boards and draw on the outline of the sculpted area with my template (the picture is old and the template needed to be cut yet.) Because of the curve on the backside you have to be careful with the profile of the pre-sculpting. It's possible to cut into an area that should be left. The boards just to the sides of center are the main boards that your legs sit over so they are recessed 1/4" from the pomel and sides of the chair. It's kinda hard to see below. The seat area I think is about 5/8" which leaves around 3/4" under your rear. The outside boards are the most complicated to pre-sculpt. It's not really easy to do it on the band saw as you can't do a through cut so there are some weird compound angles and well it's easier to just do as @Bmac instructs and take the outside pieces to your bench and sculpt them with your sander/grinder. This is a step that Mar doesn't do in his rocker videos and it's immensly helpful as you have more room around the part to maneuver your tool to get the perfect shape. I also use a very high tech measuring device to set an offset from the outside line. This tells me about where I want the curved side to stop. I remove the bulk inside the line and then setting the grinder on the angle blend from my rule of thumb line to the outside line. This has helped prevent me from trying to make the sides too steep which doesn't work very well and isn't very comfortable. The outside part after pre-sculpting, next to it is an untoched piece. After this point the seat is ready to be clued together and shaped. With all the pre-sculpting there isn't a lot to be done. Really it's just even everything up. This is why pre-sculpting seems like the cheat code to do this. After I use the RAS with 24 grit paper I go over the seat with a goose neck scraper. This is where I deviate from others. I know Bmac uses 50 grit and the moves into the RO90, while I don't have the RO90 and every time i went to buy it I had a really hard time pulling the trigger. I did one of my trials with the goose neck scraper and found it was an excellent way to get between 24 grit and 80 grit with an interface pad. It may be hard to see in the picture above but after sculpting there are some high spots and some deeper scratches. Trying to level all this out with sanders left a surface that felt like it undulated a lot to me. When i used the scraper I was able to remove those high spots and the surface felt far more uniform. Both were smooth it's more the difference between laser flat and slightly scalloped. The scraper did not leave a perfectly clean surface though. With the changing grain directions there was some tear out and other issues. Goose neck scrapers and difficult to sharpen and get tuned up well so that doesn't help either. So I started sanding at 80 grit on my 125mm sander with the foam interface pad. This generally goes well. but the sander is VERY under powered so care has to be taken to not stall the RO movement. After 80 grit i jump to 120 grit on my 150mm sander with a foam interface pad. Using the 2 sanders back to back it's very apparent that the 125 ets needs more power. Due to the curved surface the 150 nearly jumped out of my hand numerous times. I ended up turning it down from 6 to 4 as i found it almost unwieldy at full power. After 150 is 180 than 220. Next up is finishing touches and round over to the seats then finishing and mounting. The end is near. My goal is to eat dinner Friday on one of these chairs fully finished. If I don't meet my goal so be it but it's my goal.
  15. I had 10 I only got about 6 tomatoes off of them. The deer ate the rest, like spoiled todlers they took one bit and then threw the rest on the ground.
  16. Do you only do fried green tomatoes or do you let them ripen off the vine?
  17. Defiantly not. Poke around and you should be able to get free. If someone is asking money for a log on craig's list offer them free haul away and they might take it. Only time i'd pay for something is walnut and that's a HUGE maybe, there is just too much risk involved with nails, rot, insects ect. 10" i just did flat sawn because anything else is too complicated. If i had an easier way to quarter logs i'd have done that but then you need bigger logs and that makes things more difficult.
  18. Chestnut

    Domino Time

    The assortment kit is a good way to keep stuff organized. By my math the assortment saves you $10 over buying separately. The systainer is $99 so you really save $109. The cheapest way to buy tenons is to buy the big packs if you use that price per tenon it doesn't make as much sense to buy the assortment. Using the big packs you get the $99 systainer for $23 still not a bad deal. Though you don't really need 2 5mm cutters so If you buy seperatly you could save that.
  19. Chestnut


    I did and i got overwhelmed very quickly. They seem simple but yet not. It'd be easier if I had a view camera to model it after.
  20. It is odd to me to have the cherry be on the bottom but it's what the client wants. Someone is going to find that in 100 years and be confused as heck.
  21. 2.5' I tried 3 feet and it was just too heavy.... I've milled some logs on my bandsaw and had it work great. I've milled some logs and it turned out aweful. It's a tough process.
  22. Chestnut

    Domino Time

    Some day I shall test it and have an answer. If i ever exhaust my project list i shall create a testing rig. I've wanted to do some strength testing for a long time just to see how far a person can go with designs to make more delicate furniture. The bent lamination is a drastic comparison. That is a large area compared to a tenon, and is not really a fair comparison. By that argument I could say that everything is flexible including rocks and glass (as that is ultimately true to one extent or another).
  23. Heat is the only sure fire way to kill wood bugs. I think the board has to hit 130 or so. It's possible the holes were there from bugs while the tree was alive or before it was dried. If you see piles of sawdust around the holes that's an indication that there is a current infestation or that it's ongoing. Towards the end of this episode the wood boring pests are covered in detail. The details start around 32:00.
  24. Chestnut


    There is a camera shop not far from my house that does LF lessons for both camera movements and darkroom procedures. It's like once a year but I still think it'd be interesting to take the course. It's not cheap but i think it'd be worth it. I have all the stuff to setup a simple dark room and do contact prints but i never bought a LF camera. I was goign to develop B&W from my hasssie 503 c/m but i devote most of my time to woodworking. Photography is one of those fun projects I want to get to some day but furniture needs to be made for the house.
  25. So the boiling water test is just on 1 toy right? Every toy doesn't need to undergo this test before it gets sold does it?