Chestnut

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Everything posted by Chestnut

  1. I never said there was anything wrong with the TV i miss those things. They just worked and you didn't have all this unnecessary junk in them that just breaks. If you do ever want to get rid of it make sure to try and sell it. I know people that are paying $100-$200 to buy them so they can play old school video games on them.
  2. Coffee table looks great. I like the design. Also how old is that TV? Did you steal it from a museum?
  3. First time veneering so lets make this as difficult as possible eh? From my view it looks like you did pretty well.
  4. Man that look really good. I agree it looks like you need more planes to fill up all that empty space.
  5. Hey I've only broken like 3 or 4. It's not my fault they insist that it should work on a 14" saw and keep replacing it for free . I'd never be able to get anything bigger than a 16" in my shop as much as i agree with you.
  6. Man that thing is a beast. I'm jealous i think I'll only ever have my 1 14" saw. It'd be nice to have a16" saw but I'm limited on space. That will be awfully nice for resawing and bent lam work.
  7. This looks like a fun project. Definitely different than the origional but i think better.
  8. Learning pains. If you included the pictures and never mentioned the issues I'd never have guessed. It looks good seriously. All you need is more projects under your belt for some confidence and you'll be constructing like a pro. I think you have a good eye for design. I had quite a few spectacular failures in the beginning.
  9. Chestnut

    Sabre

    I don't care for yellowing finishes on hickory/pecan I'd just shoot high performance. Multiple coats of endurovar will give a good Amber tone though if that's what you like. This is walnut with a single coat of endurovar
  10. It's a hair narrow maybe if i use a 4mm and then just do an integral tenon. I messed up a leg and have to make a new one.
  11. I think 3 narrower slats is the ticket. I might have to make a traditional mortise. ... Gasp!
  12. Yeah it doesn't sound like one of my first projects where i did frame and panel but with a twist where the braces were in the center and the corners were unconfined. It was cool but tricky. Couldnt find a picture
  13. I've never done carving. The only thing that i know about carving is that a Lady names Mary May does online classes. Another place would be to search for fan carvings on youtube and just adjust that to fit letters.
  14. I'm not sure how the larger needle and cap will work, if you cut down the flow it'll probably work the same. I think it's best to grab a piece of scrap and give it a few tests. I make some board games so they are 18"x18" flat surfaces and make perfect test platforms but a piece of cheap ply would probably work the same. For the short coats i leave the poly in the gun. I usually bring it in side some where cool and protected. I've gone as far as a few hours leaving finish in the gun. The only worry is getting a little bit of finish hardened on the tip of the needle. So when i set the gun down i make sure to clean the point where the fluid comes out. I then also spray a bit before i go back to the work piece.
  15. GF makes good poly. I know in the other thread i recommended Varathane WB the only reason for that is i continually get good results and it's $15 a quart. I should buy by the gallon like you did i could get a better product for the same price but i don't use a ton so I'm worried about it goign bad. You send me a message about thinning. I don't personally thin but i use a FUji MM4 so a 4 stage turbine hvlp which has some decent power. I use the 1.3mm needle and cap set and to set the amount of material sprayed turn the needle all the way closed and then open it 3/4 to 1 full turn. Knowing your spray setup will help with some suggestions there. I personally just sprayed some WB poly last night. I do all my spraying outside in direct sunlight and get coats to dry in about 10-15min. If i have to sand between coats i generally let them go a few hours. I don't sand between every coat. My typical approach is 3 thin coats let it sit for a few hours sand flat and spray a final thin coat. Spraying WB poly is pretty easy. When the film builds you get a slight blue haze on the surface if it gets too blue you applied too much. Not a big deal it's just going to take longer to dry.
  16. Awesome job i really like the outcome. I've wanted to make an instrument for a long time but i can't play any of them so I'm kinda stuck.
  17. Sorry this was the concept for the one table that is goign to be different from the rest. It's not the slats for the side in question. I was thinking just 1 larger slat similar to how a 2 panel A&C door would look. though 3 narrow slats may work as well i might have to look at that tonight. I'm not sure... For the final piece I'm going to try and find something that is pretty strait grained and just go for it. If it breaks down the road so be it. Can't learn from failure if nothing fails. Though I'm not puling very hard on it to get it to open up like this. It's fairly simple I made slices from different directions on the band saw that went 7/8ths the length of the board and stopped. Then you just pull the piece apart and i put spaces in to stop it from pulling back together like a slinky.
  18. So one of the tables i'm making is going to be quite narrow 11" top so the base is 8.5" to allow for overhang. Most of the A&C furniture in this room has side slats like above but generally a bit beefier like the Morris chair. So my question is. Should I put a slat on a narrow side like the one pictured below? I tried setting a piece of material behind it to see if that helps visualie it at all.
  19. I'd build them like an interior door. Make the joinery on the rails and stiles Mortise an tenon and use thicker material .... 30mm? . I would do this over installing some sort of internal bracing. The internal bracing isn't goign to be as effective as gluing the MDF panel like Mick said nor making the rails and stiles beefier. By my estimates using hoop pine a random pine species my internet search found to be common in NZ your door will be in the 40 lb range and Blum suggests 5 hinges with that weight and height. Even if you beefed up the door as i outlined above the weight will still be within tolerance.
  20. As always the wood nerd Shannon Rodgers has an answer. https://www.mcilvain.com/wood-color-changes-explained/
  21. Wood as a material regardless of species has pretty good tensile strength (pulling strait along the grain) It has good compression strength it most directions. I don't know what the X bracing is called, as an engineer i just want to call it a truss.
  22. Excellent work as always Chet. I agree with Rick about something boat related. I really need to torture myself and try out this Wenge stuff. It looks beautiful! As always the photo stand looks awesome .
  23. Man that picture hides it well it needs a clean.... I must have gotten it's good side. It's 1 year old this week and i only put on 16,500 miles which is about 4,000 less than i was expecting so i'm happy. I guess there is a time and a place for sandpaper....