Chestnut

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Everything posted by Chestnut

  1. I bought it and it's included in the reference post. Check back on the first post in this thread that's where the references will be posted. That one has be bouncing around my suggested panel a bit. Let me know how it goes. The other one that i've been eyeing is this one https://www.amazon.com/Esherick-Maloof-Nakashima-Master-Artisans/dp/0764332023/ref=pd_sim_14_4/147-6585434-4636760?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=0764332023&pd_rd_r=a9149273-77e3-11e9-a045-19daa5a404f5&pd_rd_w=7xvMT&pd_rd_wg=fAbXI&pf_rd_p=90485860-83e9-4fd9-b838-b28a9b7fda30&pf_rd_r=VZE6DQTRCDR7K1JQ3XHH&psc=1&refRID=VZE6DQTRCDR7K1JQ3XHH It covers Esherick Maloof and Nakashima. It's hard to buy these guys when they are $35+ each.....
  2. Are we talking casework miter or picture frame miter? They are different worlds that require a different approach. Both an accurate 45 degree square is a must. The other option is to remove the 45 degree angle from the equation. If the blade is set to 43 degrees for example one side cuts 43 the other side cuts 47. I cut my miters at a table saw with a jog that holds the parts at 90 degrees and cuts the miter on opposite sides of the blade. Can't mess it up that way. Reference for picture frame miter Reference for casework miter (bevel)
  3. I received my copy of the book last night and did a flip through. It looks like there are a lot of good pictures. I need to dig in to read a bit. I was kind of hoping that it was going to be more pictures and less words....
  4. I know a lot of people get plans from one of the wood working mags, i think it's fine wood working, Otherwise most of the stuff i do is from my own plans.
  5. That's why it's there. Except it's just left over from building the shed last year at this point. I usually buy a couple when ever i need to transport thin easily broken material like sheet rock of 1/4" ply or pink board. Put the studs underneath and you don't have to worry as much.
  6. Mold doesn't make sense. Graphite from the pencil makes a lot more sense. The other thing is a reaction between something in the wood and something in the glue but then you'd think it'd be on all of them. So it's probably graphite.
  7. Probably. It'll probably go away when you clean the side up. I know i've seen some bad looking glue lines disappear as soon as i hit them with some sand paper.
  8. Do your best and if it comes out poorly just put some 3/4" trim at the top. Nothing fancy just like a chamfer trim. No one will know it's there to cover up gappy dovetails. There is no better time to try than right now.
  9. This post is how my shop sat for about a year. I finally got sick of the lumber storage. I touched on it a bit in another thread that i bout some racks and was working on changing my storage around. It's been a week of moving lumber around in my shop and also moving some out to the shed. I have a good bit in my shed and a good bit still in my shop. As the stock in the shop decreases i'll use some of these shelves for other storage and keep most of my lumber in the shed. So the lee valley lumber rack is AWESOME!!!! It's super expensive but in my opinion after owning it it's totally worth it and then some. If you can get a good solid attachment to studs ect the system will hold more weight than what ever you attach it to. The brackets move around easier than most systems and the don't wobble and take up a ton of space like the other high capacity systems. I can do a pull up on the 18" brackets and there is no shifting or creaking what so ever. I'm not saying this hypothetically i did a couple to prove it. The pic below is where my 2x4 lumber rack used to sit. It was 8' long 6' tall and stuck out from the wall about 28". What i replaced it with leaves enough room for me to get a 2nd bandsaw and a small lathe or a large lathe if I so choose. The long storage is high enough that i can walk under it. Which is to say most/all of you would hit your head i'm 5'6". I also had a weird space by my dust collector that didn't have a lot of utility. It was just long enough that i could fit 8' lumber there and have space to change the bin. This also meant that i needed a place for the 10' and 12' boards that i have. There just so happens to be a convenient space above my jointer for such lumber. I was able to nestle the boards between the 2 drops on my collection system. The 12 foot boards tuck between the drops and the wall. The rack system that i used for these 2 is the standard box store stuff. It's capable but it's not even in the same league as the lee valley system. Now that the lumber is against the wall better i needed to address my clamp storage finally. I figured it was time to do some against the wall storage for the clamps. After going through all my lumber and finding the odd species and random pieces i had, i grabbed some hickory, sycamore, and Russian olive and made some clamp racks. I have all of my parallel clamps in one spot now which is nice. Before the 4' long clamps had to be scattered around the shop in order to be out of the way. The 4' clamps sit about 1/4" off the floor which was a bit tighter than i wanted to cut it. Here is a shot of the construction. It's very simple just some slots cut in a board. After seeing the live edge deadman on @bleedinblue deadman i learned that the shop is a great place for the live edge. This brings some natural contour to a very concrete shop so i appreciate the idea! Here is a view of the russian olive top. The shelf is to store small clamp related items like the extenders that i made. I left a few spaces for expansion but i haven't been emptying my clamp rack lately I've purchased a few clamps here and there and can safely say that i probably have enough. I noticed i didn't have a picture of my 3rd rack that is also all 8' and 6' boards. I guess i didn't want to show off my collection of box store 2x4's .... errr ebony, bocote, and rosewood.
  10. Probably. I don't have you ears for good or for worse . I don't know how hearing loss and different frequencies effects precised hearing. I also don't know if that effects the pain threshold. It'd be interesting to note if pain from loud noise depending on frequency of noise as well. This is a tangent and more of a thought. Also perception is a weird thing. I've often wondered if the red i see is the same as the next person. Do we like different tings because our senses pick things up differently?
  11. I would do a draw bore M&T. If getting long enough tenons is an issue maybe practice a new method? The length of the tenon is one of the benefits in breadboard ends to keep the end from getting too squirmy. Also like stated above I'd stop the mortise before it gets to the end as well. You want to prevent moisture from getting into the joint and causing the wood in there to expand and contract. I may be radical and suggest not using the breadboard ends. Except for aesthetics they are generally used in situations where they aren't needed.
  12. You guys are holding out on me..... It's hard to expand the reference when I buy stuff that you all already have . Philosophy isn't so bad. Impractical Cabinetmaker is also covered under the alternate title the joy of cabinetmaking. I bought it but i don't want to make cabinets. I realize I'm missing the point and i can get a lot of style cues form him and just not make it a cabinet. I guess these books are part of a trilogy. Impratical Cabinet Make Cabinetmakers Notebook Fine art of cabinet making. Might as well collect all 3.
  13. I guess it's not clear how far the meter is from the sound source that has a HUGE impact. That NIOSH finding interests me. I have a one of the aps on my phone and it tells me the sound right next to my planer is 68 dB but outside my shop with doors close it's 65dB. Must be per phone manufacture and app as well cause I'm sure the hardware matters and how it's calibrated with the software. For comparison sake it works yes. I'm just skeptical when the reading is as far off as it is especially on a log scale.
  14. That's a wonderful storage space! I just went through my lumber storage and it was a sobering event. I dind't realize how much lumber I've accumulated over the years.
  15. Yeah I'm not sure Jay's video is nearly accurate. He used a phone to measure and 69 dB is just not giving the planer credit it deserves should be more like 120dB I measured near a 10 dB decrease in mine but that was with my phone which isn't accurate. I get your apprehension but the noise difference is more than you'd expect. It was more than i expected.There is a lot of air raid siren noise from strait knife cutter heads. Have you watched Cremona's video on replacing the cutthead in his machine? He used a legit meter to measure the noise. On his griz planer he had a 14 dB drop.
  16. Ewww pine.... contrary to the saying it is not fine.....
  17. I want to sell it and will. It's a matter of when not if. I need to get the money accounted for before i hit buy. I have a couple for profit jobs ahead i might bake in a few extra dollars and blame it on the lumber yard closing and not being able to source material any more. In reality it'll be for a planer. It's not like they are goign to lose on the deal any way. I probably only make $5 an hour on my for profit work.
  18. i'M STILL FOLLOWING ALONG INTENTLY EATING MY POPCORN. bah caps lock.... #@*$ it i'm not retyping that.
  19. Updated with gallery i've found purchased https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0442245513/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 will update once i read through it a bit.
  20. The machine is extremely easy to work on. When i replaced the standard head to HH on mine I was elated the attention to detail that was taken in the design to make the machine easy to assemble from the factory and easy to work on. I respectfully disagree. The noise reduction was huge.It went from foam ear plugs with ear muff style over top to just using some reusable 20 DB plugs.
  21. The LN one is leaps and bounds ahead of the WP one. You can attach plates to sharpen short irons as well as skew irons. Also SS > Aluminum. The amazon one does suck, sucks alot, but it works good enough for the once every 3 years when i need to reset an angle on a plane iron.
  22. Well if i ever get around to figuring out tinting maple I'll like it a lot more..... Naa air dried. It was pretty green yet, doesn't bother me i have enough stash that i can dry my own lumber. For air dried I'd rather pay less and dry it myself. Gives me the ability to make sure that it's weighted right and that it's dried slowly. I just wanted to get a rise out of you. It was mill run lumber so it was ungraded and was kinda junk. After waste it came to about $4/bf and i had to dry it myself.
  23. It's not my fault you live 1,000 miles away. I'd be there to help buy a 16 hour drive is a rough commute just for discounted lumber. Plus i don't know that you'd want to compete with Minnesota prices . I bought some walnut for $2 / BF.
  24. Chestnut

    Used SawStop

    If you hired you'd want to find a company that moves gun safes but they are probably goign to use the machine you linked. At that weight even the typical stretcher style i use to move table saws would be iffy. I'd do it because 215 lbs a person isn't that terrible when you have good hand holds but I'm young and dumb.
  25. Angles up to 12-13" wide i can get with a miter gauge on the table saw. Beyond that i feel that marking out and sawing to the line is more accurate. Also the way i work exact angles isn't necessary. If i needed 2 45 degree miters to make a 90 degree corner I'd get close have the parts over sized and then trim the critical edge square after the fact. if it's 47 and 43 who cares no one is going to measure it and tell me my miter is slightly off.