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Everything posted by Chestnut

  1. I just follow along mouth half open in awe and smash the like button on every post.
  2. With all the reports I hear about gas stations watering down gas ect nothing would surprise me.
  3. It shouldn't. I can't make a guarentee on that as it depends on the brand you get if there happens to be a bit of water or something in there. Mineral spirits alone should not raise the grain though. Otherwise oil based finishs would require pre-raising the grain and sanding back.
  4. Your lucky i wasn't drinking coffee. I'd have sent you the bill for a screen cleaning.
  5. I'm leaning towards directly in the middle on the opposite side of the bench from the leg and tail vise. I don't really want to straddle a bench leg with it.
  6. I didn't take the best pictures but i have a couple slots that have bottoms to serve as storage areas. I also have a fairly wide area that is sort of an open slate. I expect to glue some thin strips to the sides to make a narrow opening for smaller tools as the need arises. I'll see if i can remember to take a picture.
  7. I never set up the base. I just made my own table.
  8. Chestnut

    Dealing with HOA

    If the lady is that immature I'd bet the HOA doesn't much like getting endless complaints from her. I'd talk to them explain the situation and see how you and the HOA can work it out. I'd ignore your neighbor. If anything laugh because it's pretty entertaining all things considered, It's not like you live next door to a meth house. If all else fails run for a position on the HOA and change the rules. It might take a while but it's cheaper than selling and moving.Bake a bunch of cookies make a bunch of cuttings boards for people and BAM you can do what ever you want. Reindeer go over really well around Christmas time. When all else fails bribe the people with the power or become that person.
  9. Probably walnut as walnut lightens with age and exposure to UV light. A couple good websites can be found below. The first one is ran by a member of this forum and he commonly helps ID wood. Wood database is an ok resource but doesn't have near as many pictures specifically end grain to help in identification. End grain is the best way to identify wood.
  10. Yeah the plastic pads are a complete joke. I tear them off from day 1 and use the clamps naked. I use cauls or other clamps if i need to clamp on finished pieces. That said mine don't mark the surface much, I never really tighten these all that much If i don't need to.
  11. I'm quite happy with mine. I've had it set up for wow almost 2 years now. It's held it's calibration well. At least i believe it has. Performance is quite good and I've not had any issues. I use it quite a bit as well.
  12. Got the material for the table legs rough cut. Finished thickness was between 3/4" and 1/2". Instead of taking everything to the same thickness I pulled boards as they became clean. This allowed me to keep some thickness and mix and match boards to get around the same dimensions for everything. I know I'll have to joint and further clean up these glued up boards so i wanted to keep as much thickness as i could. I made sure none of the boards were drastically different so it'll be hard to see the varying thicknesses. Glue up was easy but used a LOT of clamps. I almost emptied my 12" and 6" clamp racks, there were only a few 12" LD jorgs left. I don't grab them much any more these mastercrap eer masterforce clamps are awesome not even considering their price. If you don't live within driving distance it's the one product offered my Menards that may be worth paying shipping for. On sale they get down to $8. I also used every 24" jorg clamp I had.
  13. Gap stop was next on the list to get done for the bench. My gap ended up being a bit wider than what was called for in the plans. I used this to make some dedicated tool storage that will sit below the surface of the bench. This why when I'm using chisels i can drop them in the center and they won't roll around or get knocked off the bench. I made the holders by drilling different sized holes with a frostner bit. This allows the handle to drop down enough but will catch the top metal of the blade. To make a space for the blade i just cut the filler in half and spaced it to allow the blade of the chisel to drop through. I made holders for my Stanley chisels, my 2 marples chisels and my 3 Japanese chisels. To attach everything together I used the super glue and wood glue trick. A couple dots of super glue with activator and then a line of regular wood glue.
  14. My confidence inn sculpting the seats is low. I have some of the routing jigs done just need to make another prototype.
  15. I'm struggling on the chairs. I don't know why but i just can't get into them.
  16. Yes there will be. Attachment of the legs at the base and top. Probably shoot for 1.5-2". I have no hard and fast plans on this. I was thinking 2 wide floating tenons. I have some pre-made stock that is near 2" wide. I think so too... the angled half laps are giving me pause though. Not an easy thing to do.
  17. *face palm* I've done that before. I made some serving trays a long time ago. I think this is the ticket.
  18. Really depends on milling. The rough state is 1"ish the boards are pretty consistent but it's from a backwoods mill. Guy knew how to run it though I'll give him that, he sawed for grade pretty well.
  19. Ahh i misunderstood your comment i get it now.. I like Bmacs idea as well Maybe I'll do a trial to see how things work out.
  20. Works to minimize blotching makes color a bit lighter.
  21. Thought about this but the end grain would create issues and the lumber is seriously cheap like practically free. My other concern is 3/4" thick top on a 42" span. I wasn't sure if there would be enough strength there. The way the legs are designed it doesn't leave a lot of options for aprons. I suppose i could do 1 to 2 intermediate supports like Marc's knockdown trestle table. Both situations are going to e face grain and edge grain glue. All end grain will point out the end of the table. Think of it like 2 tops glued together to add thickness.
  22. Solid tables no gaps between boards? I'd either do 2x12s or plywood. Plywood is tricky because I'm assuming you want like a ~28" wide table and that doesn't fit real well with 48" wide sheets. Beings that it's just a wedding you could probably get away with 24" plus edge banding though. 1x12s are goign to be too flimsy and likely to cup or distort. I've worked with them in the past and they never seemed to stay flat. I don't think it matters 1 lick where you get them pine isn't dried low enough to prevent movement after purchase. Just my opinion.
  23. I have the dining table I'm goign to make for my sister. Unfortunately the lumber that is slated to be used for this project is just too thin for the top. I wanted to get some advise or feedback on gluing up 2 layers of material to turn 3/4" thick material in to 1_1/2" thick material. My plan is to do an under bevel that will disguise the glue line from view when standing or most angles other than strait on. My concern is that there will be some stability issues with gluing material together like this. I'm not sure if i should glue up a bunch of boards (A) to the thickness i want and then treat them like they are 8/4 lumber, or If i should do something different . My other thought is to stagger the seams (B) so a seam on the top surface doesn't match a seam on the lower surface. The image below might help clarify. Thoughts?