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Everything posted by Chestnut

  1. I'm not sure how the larger needle and cap will work, if you cut down the flow it'll probably work the same. I think it's best to grab a piece of scrap and give it a few tests. I make some board games so they are 18"x18" flat surfaces and make perfect test platforms but a piece of cheap ply would probably work the same. For the short coats i leave the poly in the gun. I usually bring it in side some where cool and protected. I've gone as far as a few hours leaving finish in the gun. The only worry is getting a little bit of finish hardened on the tip of the needle. So when i set the gun down i make sure to clean the point where the fluid comes out. I then also spray a bit before i go back to the work piece.
  2. GF makes good poly. I know in the other thread i recommended Varathane WB the only reason for that is i continually get good results and it's $15 a quart. I should buy by the gallon like you did i could get a better product for the same price but i don't use a ton so I'm worried about it goign bad. You send me a message about thinning. I don't personally thin but i use a FUji MM4 so a 4 stage turbine hvlp which has some decent power. I use the 1.3mm needle and cap set and to set the amount of material sprayed turn the needle all the way closed and then open it 3/4 to 1 full turn. Knowing your spray setup will help with some suggestions there. I personally just sprayed some WB poly last night. I do all my spraying outside in direct sunlight and get coats to dry in about 10-15min. If i have to sand between coats i generally let them go a few hours. I don't sand between every coat. My typical approach is 3 thin coats let it sit for a few hours sand flat and spray a final thin coat. Spraying WB poly is pretty easy. When the film builds you get a slight blue haze on the surface if it gets too blue you applied too much. Not a big deal it's just going to take longer to dry.
  3. Awesome job i really like the outcome. I've wanted to make an instrument for a long time but i can't play any of them so I'm kinda stuck.
  4. Sorry this was the concept for the one table that is goign to be different from the rest. It's not the slats for the side in question. I was thinking just 1 larger slat similar to how a 2 panel A&C door would look. though 3 narrow slats may work as well i might have to look at that tonight. I'm not sure... For the final piece I'm going to try and find something that is pretty strait grained and just go for it. If it breaks down the road so be it. Can't learn from failure if nothing fails. Though I'm not puling very hard on it to get it to open up like this. It's fairly simple I made slices from different directions on the band saw that went 7/8ths the length of the board and stopped. Then you just pull the piece apart and i put spaces in to stop it from pulling back together like a slinky.
  5. So one of the tables i'm making is going to be quite narrow 11" top so the base is 8.5" to allow for overhang. Most of the A&C furniture in this room has side slats like above but generally a bit beefier like the Morris chair. So my question is. Should I put a slat on a narrow side like the one pictured below? I tried setting a piece of material behind it to see if that helps visualie it at all.
  6. I'd build them like an interior door. Make the joinery on the rails and stiles Mortise an tenon and use thicker material .... 30mm? . I would do this over installing some sort of internal bracing. The internal bracing isn't goign to be as effective as gluing the MDF panel like Mick said nor making the rails and stiles beefier. By my estimates using hoop pine a random pine species my internet search found to be common in NZ your door will be in the 40 lb range and Blum suggests 5 hinges with that weight and height. Even if you beefed up the door as i outlined above the weight will still be within tolerance.
  7. As always the wood nerd Shannon Rodgers has an answer.
  8. Wood as a material regardless of species has pretty good tensile strength (pulling strait along the grain) It has good compression strength it most directions. I don't know what the X bracing is called, as an engineer i just want to call it a truss.
  9. Excellent work as always Chet. I agree with Rick about something boat related. I really need to torture myself and try out this Wenge stuff. It looks beautiful! As always the photo stand looks awesome .
  10. Man that picture hides it well it needs a clean.... I must have gotten it's good side. It's 1 year old this week and i only put on 16,500 miles which is about 4,000 less than i was expecting so i'm happy. I guess there is a time and a place for sandpaper....
  11. Got some crotch on the top.
  12. So in my style search I stumbled upon Seth Rolland and was instantly drawn by some of the work that he created. I don't think I'm going to go quite as far as he did but something along these lines. I'm not even sure if the piece will fit but it's going to be the one oddball piece in the room so i figure why not try something new. If i don't like it i can always put it somewhere else or maybe try and sell it.
  13. If it's naturally darkened I'd do some experiments to make sure that it can be close. I hate to say if but if it went naturally to a dark color why not just let the new project go naturally to the same point. Could accelerate it with some time in the sun outside prior to finishing. I'd be concerned with it looking similar now but 5 years later start going in a different direction. Or Baking soda. Or Lye like @wtnhighlander has done.
  14. I have a few living room tables to make. Most of them are going to be my typical style that runs with the theme of the room but there is going to be one oddball that will be fun to make and i want to try something new. The first table on the list is the easiest. I just need to copy an end table i made a few years back. The main goal was to use up some reclaimed cherry from a bedroom door someone gave me. It was a solid cherry door that they cut some pieces off of so it was no longer usable as a door. Not bad for a reclamied wood project eh? First step was to make the MDF fence for my miter gauge that i've been meaning to make for a while now. After that was done it was as simple as cutting parts to get kinda close to the same size as the other table. I used the domino for the joinery. and also to attach the side slats on. It's the same techniquie I did for the last one. Used the drum sander to sand the slats to fit perfectly in a 6mm mortise. I used the table saw to establish the shoulder on 2 sides and cut the rest back until they fit. Next was to get everything finish prepped. #4 to the rescue! Marc mad a post on social media about rounding corners with a sander. I've never had that problem with a handplane and it's a ton faster to get perfect finish ready. I don't sand much any more after my smoother because it honestly makes the surface look worse. After finish prep it was a pretty painless assembly. Then it was on to making the top. The previous table has an ash top that came from scraps from a build i did a LONG time ago. Luckily i always planned on making 2 and kept the scraps. I ran it through the drum sander after it was glued up to even everything out. Because the grain is kinda crazy and i get a lot of tear out on this wood I took off the drum sander grit marks with a card scraper. Took me maybe 10 min to go from 80 grit to finish ready. Total time was about 10 hours. Just need to apply finish.
  15. Tried it didn't see the point..... putting marks on project parts and setting them together ensures there are no mistakes. I also use stop blocks and plan my cuts out.
  16. Ok i like that. I might just get a pair of those when i buy that 9' track and keep it in my garage. I'll mount it to the back of m garage door. Brilliant!!!
  17. I've gravitated away from making templates as i hate template routing. If i do make a template to keep curves consistent I'll make them out of 1/4" mdf but i really only use them for a pencil line. Then i just saw close to the line and clean up with hand tools. So it depends on how you work. I've never made nor used a story stick. I can see how they'd be useful but I usually just end up using project parts. Why use some other wood when the project material will work all the same and leaves less waste.
  18. The change is so slow and minuscule that i doubt you'll notice it. It's not like 19 years 355 days you'll be ok with the color but at 20 years your going to say "nope too light time to go". But no it doesn't really bother me. Most of what i make is cherry so it's only going to get better looking as it ages. Walnut gets a lot of hype and for good reason it's a beautiful wood and is wonderful to work but i think the fact that it ages lighter is one of the very few drawbacks one other being the price with the final one being that it tends to have more knots than cherry. The other thing is i tend to celebrate that wood changes color instead of dread it. I love natural processes and think that if this is how nature designed it, i'm happy to be along for the ride.
  19. Hum i don't think that you mentioned that FreeCAD was free....
  20. That's good to hear that after 2 checkups everything is well. I can't imagine how scary that must be. As far as the wood working class i feel i must say pic or it didn't happen . I hope you get a chance to go back and finish what you started. I also hope that you can share a picture with us of the end result.
  21. Combine is what you are looking for. It's a tool that is used to subrtract a solid from another solid. Fur turnings revolve is your friend and combine (subtract or cut) is how you'd remove the portions in the quadrants like you typically do.
  22. That board doesn't look like oak to me but it's hard to tell. The fastest method is smell. When cutting the wood there is a very obvious difference between them. Good clean end grain pictures are the most accurate. As far as value it all depends on if you can find the right buyer. Also how clean you can get the boards would be a big factor as well. If they are caked in dirt and full of nails not many people will want to buy.
  23. The polyurethane glues will stick to anything but i think scraping the finish off is your best bet as well.