Chestnut

Supporters
  • Content Count

    6897
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    93

Everything posted by Chestnut

  1. Seat carving process has started and it is going a LOT faster than I thought it would. I was able to get the first seat done in 4 hours and that wasn't overlapping glue drying time. If I do other operations while glue is drying I could easily get that down further but I won't bother timing it because it doesn't really matter. First step is to select material. I had some nice 10" wide boards from my order of 6/4 Cherry. I figured I'd use 2 pieces to make the seat. In order to do the pre-sculpting though that board gets hacked into parts to be glued back together. Spoiler the grain turned out quite nice despite cutting and gluing back together. I'll be able to spot the glue seams but an average observer probably won't look close enough. In the picture above the center of the board is missing. The pre-sculpting works best of the center of the seat is a board about 4" wide. This sets up the pommel area, as well as the main seat area. To make the 4" center I took 2" off of each board, jointed and glued them together to make a 4" board. To start of the pre sculpting and ensure the chairs end up roughly similar, i made a template with index marks to make sure that the profile is accuraly placed on the center board of each chair. The profile is then cut on the band saw. To set the pomel area I needed to cut an angle. I didn't want to tilt my band saw table to do this as that would be a hassle as I use the glue up time to back out the milling for the next seat. Also this doesn't allow the wood to sit long in a partially milled state which may cause movement I don't want. The angle was achieved by setting my fence at 2_1/8" and using a 1" spacer. After the center board is pre-sculpted, I align all the boards and draw on the outline of the sculpted area with my template (the picture is old and the template needed to be cut yet.) Because of the curve on the backside you have to be careful with the profile of the pre-sculpting. It's possible to cut into an area that should be left. The boards just to the sides of center are the main boards that your legs sit over so they are recessed 1/4" from the pomel and sides of the chair. It's kinda hard to see below. The seat area I think is about 5/8" which leaves around 3/4" under your rear. The outside boards are the most complicated to pre-sculpt. It's not really easy to do it on the band saw as you can't do a through cut so there are some weird compound angles and well it's easier to just do as @Bmac instructs and take the outside pieces to your bench and sculpt them with your sander/grinder. This is a step that Mar doesn't do in his rocker videos and it's immensly helpful as you have more room around the part to maneuver your tool to get the perfect shape. I also use a very high tech measuring device to set an offset from the outside line. This tells me about where I want the curved side to stop. I remove the bulk inside the line and then setting the grinder on the angle blend from my rule of thumb line to the outside line. This has helped prevent me from trying to make the sides too steep which doesn't work very well and isn't very comfortable. The outside part after pre-sculpting, next to it is an untoched piece. After this point the seat is ready to be clued together and shaped. With all the pre-sculpting there isn't a lot to be done. Really it's just even everything up. This is why pre-sculpting seems like the cheat code to do this. After I use the RAS with 24 grit paper I go over the seat with a goose neck scraper. This is where I deviate from others. I know Bmac uses 50 grit and the moves into the RO90, while I don't have the RO90 and every time i went to buy it I had a really hard time pulling the trigger. I did one of my trials with the goose neck scraper and found it was an excellent way to get between 24 grit and 80 grit with an interface pad. It may be hard to see in the picture above but after sculpting there are some high spots and some deeper scratches. Trying to level all this out with sanders left a surface that felt like it undulated a lot to me. When i used the scraper I was able to remove those high spots and the surface felt far more uniform. Both were smooth it's more the difference between laser flat and slightly scalloped. The scraper did not leave a perfectly clean surface though. With the changing grain directions there was some tear out and other issues. Goose neck scrapers and difficult to sharpen and get tuned up well so that doesn't help either. So I started sanding at 80 grit on my 125mm sander with the foam interface pad. This generally goes well. but the sander is VERY under powered so care has to be taken to not stall the RO movement. After 80 grit i jump to 120 grit on my 150mm sander with a foam interface pad. Using the 2 sanders back to back it's very apparent that the 125 ets needs more power. Due to the curved surface the 150 nearly jumped out of my hand numerous times. I ended up turning it down from 6 to 4 as i found it almost unwieldy at full power. After 150 is 180 than 220. Next up is finishing touches and round over to the seats then finishing and mounting. The end is near. My goal is to eat dinner Friday on one of these chairs fully finished. If I don't meet my goal so be it but it's my goal.
  2. I had 10 I only got about 6 tomatoes off of them. The deer ate the rest, like spoiled todlers they took one bit and then threw the rest on the ground.
  3. Do you only do fried green tomatoes or do you let them ripen off the vine?
  4. Defiantly not. Poke around and you should be able to get free. If someone is asking money for a log on craig's list offer them free haul away and they might take it. Only time i'd pay for something is walnut and that's a HUGE maybe, there is just too much risk involved with nails, rot, insects ect. 10" i just did flat sawn because anything else is too complicated. If i had an easier way to quarter logs i'd have done that but then you need bigger logs and that makes things more difficult.
  5. Chestnut

    Domino Time

    The assortment kit is a good way to keep stuff organized. By my math the assortment saves you $10 over buying separately. The systainer is $99 so you really save $109. The cheapest way to buy tenons is to buy the big packs if you use that price per tenon it doesn't make as much sense to buy the assortment. Using the big packs you get the $99 systainer for $23 still not a bad deal. Though you don't really need 2 5mm cutters so If you buy seperatly you could save that.
  6. Chestnut

    Photography

    I did and i got overwhelmed very quickly. They seem simple but yet not. It'd be easier if I had a view camera to model it after.
  7. It is odd to me to have the cherry be on the bottom but it's what the client wants. Someone is going to find that in 100 years and be confused as heck.
  8. 2.5' I tried 3 feet and it was just too heavy.... I've milled some logs on my bandsaw and had it work great. I've milled some logs and it turned out aweful. It's a tough process.
  9. Chestnut

    Domino Time

    Some day I shall test it and have an answer. If i ever exhaust my project list i shall create a testing rig. I've wanted to do some strength testing for a long time just to see how far a person can go with designs to make more delicate furniture. The bent lamination is a drastic comparison. That is a large area compared to a tenon, and is not really a fair comparison. By that argument I could say that everything is flexible including rocks and glass (as that is ultimately true to one extent or another).
  10. Heat is the only sure fire way to kill wood bugs. I think the board has to hit 130 or so. It's possible the holes were there from bugs while the tree was alive or before it was dried. If you see piles of sawdust around the holes that's an indication that there is a current infestation or that it's ongoing. Towards the end of this episode the wood boring pests are covered in detail. The details start around 32:00. https://www.lumberupdate.com/episode-20-trees-as-crops/
  11. Chestnut

    Photography

    There is a camera shop not far from my house that does LF lessons for both camera movements and darkroom procedures. It's like once a year but I still think it'd be interesting to take the course. It's not cheap but i think it'd be worth it. I have all the stuff to setup a simple dark room and do contact prints but i never bought a LF camera. I was goign to develop B&W from my hasssie 503 c/m but i devote most of my time to woodworking. Photography is one of those fun projects I want to get to some day but furniture needs to be made for the house.
  12. So the boiling water test is just on 1 toy right? Every toy doesn't need to undergo this test before it gets sold does it?
  13. That era SUCKED. but i have maybe 10,000 primers because of that. I bought as many as i could when stock finally hit shelves. That era was great for gun makes they made a lot of money back then. Interesting i used Green Dot for my .45 acp loads can't remember why i chose it over red dot. I never thought about pistol powders being good for shotgun but i suppose they operate similarly. Burn the powder as fast as possible. If you keep posting reloading picture you might motivate me to set up my own bench.... .
  14. Chestnut

    Photography

    Maybe but a true photographic print is something that can't quite be reproduced by a printer. I've seen some Ansel Adams originals and they have an almost 3d quality to them (I've seen other photographs i just can't remember the artist that captured them...). The digital will be a LOT easier . I stitch panoramas, and idk what you call the square version of a panorama, quite often but it's difficult to control your focal plane the same way as you can with a view camera. The different movements a view camera makes changes so much about the pictures and keeping subjects in focus.
  15. Chestnut

    Domino Time

    The trouble is glue isn't flexible. You can say that having a tight mortise offers strength but if the tenon moves inside the joint at all to take advantage of that "strength" the glue inside that joint has already failed and the shoulder will separate from the base causing a gap. All joint strength tests are flawed but in them they all generally get 1 thing consistent. Glue area is the key for a strong joint. If you take 2 boards and glue them together at 90 degrees (a half lap with out the lap). There is no shoulder or anything supporting that board and I'd be willing to be that is stronger than most if not all M&T joints. If you want to set up a Mattias Wandel testing rig and prove me wrong I'd love to examine the results. If the above bothers you never use a domino. The systems success hinges around making a mortise that is larger than the tenon to allow for accurate alignment in 1 direction. The Domino is just a mortise maker similar to a drill bit and chisel, a router, or a hallow chisel mortiser. I make traditional M&T joinery with the domino all the time. You use a router or chisel to cut a mortise i use the domino. Even using floating tenons you are still technically creating a M&T joint. Don't think of it as something different or a different joint because it isn't. It's just another tool to make a mortise.
  16. Chestnut

    Photography

    I'd love to shoot large format film. I hope when my life gets a chance to slow down in 30 years the equipment and film is still available. Being able to play with the tilts and swings has always interested me.
  17. Chestnut

    Domino Time

    Not goign to lie I didn't even include the time it'd take to make the tenon.... now that you mention that yes way longer. If I didn't include setup it wouldn't be that drastic of a difference. Though to make a tenon i use a dado stack and have to get my router setup that right there is most of the time required. I find rounding tenons to be a practice in futility. The rounded corner does not add any strength too the joint so to make tenons faster I just chop the tenon square down to the cheek size that fits within the non rounded portion of the mortise. The rounded portion of a standard mortise is all end grain and it's unlikely to get a good surface off the tenon and end of a mortise to get any sore of solid glue bond. This is made apparent by the domino and the fact that you will generally cut a wider mortise than the domino stock most of the time.
  18. An hour of that I used to shower and eat. Another hour when to getting trapped in some youtube videos. Luckily today is a new day and I left work after only 10 hours of slaving behind my computer. I was able to get the remaining chairs together tonight. It didn't take more than 45 min or so to hit the last 2 chairs worth of parts with my #4 sanders and then glue the chairs together. I brought them up stairs and positioned them around the table to get an idea of what they will look like. I think I'm gonna like these chairs quite a lot. Getting finish on them is going to bring out a word of character. I also inherited 4 dining chairs from my grandmother. She asked me a while back If i wanted the chairs and not knowing much about them said yes. I knew I was only going to make 6 chairs for a table that potentially could seat 10. I didn't really know what to expect but was presently surprised when I picked them up. She told me that they were her grandmothers and estimated their age around 100 years but that was a guess. There are no makers mark on the chairs so they could have been locally made but who knows. The thing that i really like about the chairs is how delicate they look. The legs are very thin and have some nice subtle details. The downside is they were stripped and refinished, not a bad thing, but when doing so they glue let loose. When the refinisher put them back together they were not very careful removing squeeze out around some of the joints. They stayed on the safe side of just not removing it at all....
  19. This is a mighty fine looking step stool. I like the sap wood addition. There are some instances where it can be used as a feature that adds to the project. I think you did a solid job. The instances IMO when sap is frowned upon is when it's put along a glue edge with heart wood and the sap draws attention to the glue seam and strait line between the 2.
  20. Chestnut

    Domino Time

    I did some router based M&T and forget that.... the domino is SOOO fast. I cut M&T's for all the joints in 6 chairs in about 2 hours including setup and mistakes. I really doubt i could have come close with a router. Also don't get locked into thinking the domino is ONLY floating tenon. There is nothing stopping you from using it as a handheld mortiser and then doing an integral tenon. I've done this many many times as well. I'll plunge 2 mortises side by side so they are 1 large mortise and make a part with an integral tenon. I should keep a portfolio of projects where I use the domino atypically to share with people the tool is VERY versatile. Some people use it to attach table tops to aprons. I even used it to make through tenons in some locations. I just used a chisel to square off the rounds and cut a tenon to fit. Router with a bottom bearing bit is still my favorite way to do through tenons though. It's made worse by the fact that the cords and hoses come off the router in the worst spots. Though the DC on my PC890 series router is dang good for mortises all things considered. Not as clean as the domino but that's not a fair comparison.
  21. Chestnut

    Domino Time

    I use my 500 a LOT but I've been thinking about adding the 700. It is worth noting, I mostly use my own tenon stock. The reason for this is the tenons that festool provides are just too narrow. I'll plunge 3 mortises in a row for a 2.5" wide mortise and then use a home made floating tenon. The flexibility of using home made stock is worth the 30 min i spent feeding material through my drum sander. Here are my thoughts. In favor of the 500: The DF500 is small can be used somewhat 1 handed where i hold the tool with one hand and the work piece with the other. The 700 may be a bit too large to do that. I use 8mm tenons 95% of the time so the extra thick tenons don't offer me much. If i work with 8/4 wood I stack 2 8mm tenons in there which gives more glue than a larger tenon and in theory a stronger joint anyway. 8mm and 10mm tenons are pushing the upper limit for tenon size in 4/4 stock. 4mm tenons are far more useful than you might initially think. They are cheap and good enough for panel glue ups and make life easy. Less expensive so you can get started with a tenon kit and it's cheaper than the 700. In favor of the 700: Additional mortise depth. I've ran into this only 1 or 2 times times where the depth on the 500 isn't quite what I wanted. A 28mm deep mortise is the deepest you could go on a 1.25" square leg. Most of the furniture I'm making is around that size so the additional depth isn't as critical. M&T is all about glue area so if you can't go deep go wide. Additional stops on the machine. I never use the stops. I mark a pencil line and use the targeting mark on the unit. Very few mortises are on edges anyway most are towards the center of a board any way. Larger mortise sizes. For large projects like doors or massive tables the larger tenon size could be a benefit. My solution with the 500 has been to stack tenons in larger material. again M&T is mostly about glue area so 2 1.25" long and 1" wide 8mm tenon offers more glue area than a 1.25" long 1" wide 14mm tenon. (there is a lot more to this as well separating the 2 8mm tenons provides a better pull out resistance and better sheer performance than a single 14mm tenon. I may have just talked myself out of ever buying the 700....
  22. Steal away. I got the idea from a commercial furniture piece but improved on it. Their idea was too simple and could have been missed easily. I was planning on having all 6 chairs glued together last night but ended up having to work a 15 hour day...
  23. All of the episodes are available on the podcast website https://woodtalkshow.com/episodes/page/5/
  24. Why's he planing against the grain? I guess maybe those fancy infill planes can plane in any direction?
  25. Chestnut

    Lumber Cart

    I have a 24" x 24" cart that is on wheels that I roll around my shop. Floor to top is about 29" but that is less important. I'd set the height so it can roll under your table saw extension wig or something. I have drawers on my cart and store random stuff in there but you could easily just do cubbies for shorts wood storage. If you want a bit longer storage either orient the storage vertically or make the cart bigger. I used to have my planer on it but I have since changed that. Now it's just a material cart, I put project parts on top of it when I move from machine to machine. It's a lot easier to stack 30 different pieces in an organized fashion than trying to carry them and maybe drop a few.