Chestnut

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Everything posted by Chestnut

  1. There are a lot of ideas floating around. I think a few pictures would probably help. We can make a lot of guesses but that doesn't tell us the story.
  2. I could keep bumping it to the top or another option is to politly ask if it could be pinned or stickyed?
  3. Ebay is a great idea. I linked to amazon because they often sell used books as well for really cheap. Also it's a stable link so someone (probably me) can read about the book. in the future. Yes exactly what i was looking for. I'm wondering if i shouldn't add some text about the book and then leave the handle of the person that recommended it. If any one is not ok with getting taged in the post let me know and i'll remove it. I'll leave the quote anonymous.
  4. Man this reminds me of my childhood swing set. Most parents would think "better make it low to the ground so when they climb on top they wont' get hurt". My dad's method was to build ours 12-13 feet tall so we were to afraid to climb on top. I wanted to put 20 feet because that's how I remember it. He made it from cedar 6x6s for legs and laminated 3 2x8s for the beam across the top. It never moved because each post was 5 feet in the ground and then had concrete poured around each leg..... I think it had room for 4 plus the slide.
  5. I just cleared up some space in my shop that oddly enough is the perfect size for a lathe.......
  6. I started this because it was pointed out to me that this could be a good reference spot if someone else has questions like this. So throw stuff out there and lets see how much information we can compile. I'll update this post with links ect This way we can hijack and still have a solid post to reference with out our inevitable bickering. Tom King mentioned Ebay as an excellent resource for used books. Some can be had for $3-$5. I left links to amazon out of ease it is by no way a plug for amazon. If you are going to buy a new book I URGE you to try and buy direct from the author. You may pay a bit more but from everything I've heard a larger percentage of the cut goes their way if you buy from them. Side benefit they are generally signed. 17th 18th 19th Century (period furniture) Albert Sack: Fine Points of Furniture "For period furniture" -Tom King Verna Salomonsky: Masterpieces of Furniture This is quite a good reference that covers mostly Queen Ann, Chippendale, and Hepplewhite styles. There are a few William and Marry pieces as well. The text is brief but the pictures come with a detailed dimensioned drawing. -Tom King Franklin Gottshall: Simple Colonial Furniture "This one is very worthwhile, if for nothing more than the first 18 pages on the "essentials of design". " -Tom King Norman Vandal: Queen Anne Furniture "´╗┐Hundreds of pictures, scale drawings, and various others such as tools being used. Also for anyone thinking about building any kind of furniture"- Tom King Arts & Crafts / Mission Robert Lang: Shop Drawings for Greene and Greene Furniture Mid-century Modern / Variants Mike Pekovich: The how and why of woodworking " It's not as cerebral as the Krenov or Nakashima I've listed, but well worth the time to read. " -Bmac James Krenov: The fine Art of Cabinetmaking "not only gives practical advice but he talks of how to excel, be your best. The photos are inspiring and his attention to detail is incredible." -Bmac James Krenov: A Cabinet Makers Notebook "First in the 3 book series by Krenov" James Krenov: The Impratical Cabinet Maker "Third in the 3 book series by Krenov" Sam Maloof: The Furniture of Sam Maloof, and Sam Maloof, Woodworker "Not how to books but books for inspiration. You can find out the how to through other avenues, but you get the inspiration in these books" -Bmac George Nakashima: The soul of a Tree " To me no other book connected me more to the medium woodworkers work with than this boo´╗┐k " -Bmac Shaker Tom Moser: How to build Shaker Furniture " It's a really good book for ideas... there are measured drawings of a number of Shaker pieces, and it goes into some detail on design elements." -Minnesota Steve Tom Moser: Artistry In Wood "Covers design and inspiration for shaker and Arts and Crafts furniture. He discusses his love for exposed joinery." -Bmac [Could fit in A&C section as well] Other Bill Hylton: Illustrated Cabinet Making Reference for cabinet styles and construction -Ronn W Julius Panero: Human Dimension & Interior Space "If you've ever been wondering what size or what proportions something should be this book has the answer. It covers everything fro residential to hospital and everywhere in between." -Me Furniture Gallery's https://thekrenovschool.org/projects/ "Most of it is leaning toward gallery pieces but the Krenov school's gallery might give you some inspiration." -Chet https://www.nwwoodgallery.com/ There are a lot of categories and higher end pieces that span a lot of styles. -Me Material To Review Oscar Fitzgerald: Studio Furniture of the Renwick Gallery " <place holder> " -Me Shop Drawings For Craftsman Furniture Shop Drawings for Craftsman Interiors Material Not Yet Purchased Stickley Furniture: 1912 and 1915 Furniture Collection *Udated: Update Post
  7. The miter gauge idea is pretty clever but yeah you won't be able to get all 4 sides tthat way. The nice thing about tapers is that they don't need to be 100% identical. slight variation in size and angle goes completely unnoticeable. The big thing is to make sure that the point where the taper begins is at the roughly the same height all the way around. I've been 1/4 " off and it's been ok though. Save the offcuts and use them as shims for other tasks in the shop like if you ever have to run a twisted board across your jointer or if you hare having binding issues with cutting something with your track saw ect. I have a stack of shims and use them often then they hit the scrap bin after use typically. Or dare i say if you ever need to shim a door. My last house all of the doors were shimmed with custom 1 of a kind walnut shims. Super bespoke, it's probably why i made as much as i did when i sold it.
  8. Band saw? I do all my tapers there and then cleanup with the jointer or hand plane. I thought we were talking small legs. Anything that gets over 2.5" I feel gets dicy on the table saw. If you are going that thick all the time i'd do a rip blade.
  9. If you get a good finish off your combo blade i'd go that route so there is less clean up. Otherwise i'd say rip blade.
  10. I feel like there should be more than 1 bolt thingy in the red circles. It takes 2 to resist twisting and you want them as far apart as possible. Also agree if you brace the slide area thing it'll increase the rigidity.
  11. I think i missed this? I think the 1hp motor is a bit weak. If you stepped up to a 2hp blower you'd have better luck. Dust separates from getting flug to the sides of the cyclone so if you put more air in the velocity is higher and the dust separates better. Again if it was missed you might need to install a wye near the inlet to the collector and have a blast gate half cracked to add some additional air. Reducing any inefficiencies in the system will help as well. Also as a note make sure that your SSD and the dust canister are 100% air tight. Any air the leaks into the canister is going to draw dust strait up the cyclone. This is the most important part of the DC system. I have a 3hp system and while i don't vent outside my filter stays a lot cleaner when i run with 2 blast gates open.
  12. That is awesome looking. I thought it was knotty hickory at first. For the pictures i'd say how you connected the boards in the panels worked out wonderfully. I like the added depth that the V groves add.
  13. I don't vent outside. My cyclone also separates most of the dust. Even still i have to take my filter outside and hit it with the leaf blower once a year if not twice depending on the amount of drum sander use. A smaller filter and a less efficient cyclone is going to plug a filter fairly quickly. You might be out there monthly cleaning it out which is going to be a lot more of a nusience than exhausting. I deal with residents often for work and i hate to say it but being proactive is a practice in futility. It's easier to do the minimum, which is a viable end product that meets all industry standards, and wait until a squeaky wheel comes and address them individually. If they get a say in the solution they are more happy with it regardless of what the outcome is. Most often the solution they decide on is less than extents you are willing to do to solve the problem. If you do the maximum every time even though they aren't a part of the solution they are going to complain. Having input means more to people generally than the outcome for the situation. Like i said before most people are oblivious and they probably don't even notice. Have the conversation first stress after you know the outcome. It's hard to solve something when you don't know the scope of the problem or anything about the issues at hand. The only reason i say this is as covered at the top filters and drum sanders don't get along very well unless you have a very efficient cyclone and if you are seeing dust in the are you probably don't have the most efficient setup.
  14. I don't know why your worried about it. 1 windy day will put a heck of a lot more dust in the air than a drum sander. I doubt your neighbors even notice. Adding a filter is going to bring you nothing but headaches. My best advice is to get over it. It's some sawdust it's not going to hurt anything. Hit the area with a leaf blower after, once the rain hit's it it'll go into the environment as fertilizer. I'm not sure where the capacity of your machine is but a 1hp might struggle to move enough air to separate the fines. If you can get some more air in the system you might have a better removal efficiency. When i run my drum sander with my 3HP cyclone i always run with 2 ports open. But that's pulling nearly 12 amps @ 240 volts. I guess i don't know how close your port is to your neighbors and what the environment is like at the outside vent.
  15. I'd like to hear what you think of it. Can always turn tool handles and non furniture related stuff like pens and cheese knives, bowls ect. Well maybe not so many bowls on that small guy.
  16. I don't really clamp untill it's over 2" but that point comes with experience. I'd say anything over 1" the trouble is it depends. A spade bit is more likely to catch as it exits so i'd clamp on smaller diameters of that. Also as pointed out before it also depends on your work piece. If it's 2" x2" clamp every time if it's 10" x 96" i can probably drill in that and hold it steady. So again experience.
  17. I'll give ya $44 each if they are curly cherry or cow pee walnut
  18. Grew up 75 miles north of Fargo and got my engineering degree at NDSU. This depends on the phase you are in. For someone starting out i recommend doing what your are doing. Draw a plan and get everything laid out the way you want it. Then break the build into pieces and take it step by step. It's good to plan like you do but once you are done being the designer and put on your peon hat it's good to focus and take things 1 step at a time especially if the steps are daunting and new to you. You don't worry about the color of shingles the roofer is going to install when you can't get that danged surveyor to finish platting the lots.
  19. Just be prepared for a cover their butt type response.
  20. Yeah .... more shellac might not work there. Dining tables get abused pretty heavily and if you spill you vodka while mixing your martini it will damage the shellac as it's alcohol soluble. I had to read up. If your current top coat is an oil basied gel stain. You will be able to apply Seal Coat which is a dewaxed shellac as a barrier between the stain and the top coat. This should help solve some adhesion issues. Thinning is a good practice it speeds up dry time. I don't know why they don't recommend thinning, probably further Cover their butt language. Also as a note shellac when applied melts into the previous layer so sanding between coats is necessary to level the finish and isn't necessary for adhesion, like between coats of polyurethane. I often apply 3 coats of shellac with minutes in between and then let it dry for a few hours then sand level. There is a LOT of technique to this and i'm still learning. Don't fret over owning a can of dewaxed shellac and waxed shellac iprobably have 3 different cans of shellac sitting around and they get used in different situations. The shelf life is pretty good and the tops of the cans are dated from the factory so you can always know how old the shellac is.
  21. More shellac. I don't know that there is anything that adheres to wax except more wax. I once read somewhere that if you let the can sit for a week or 2 the wax either settles or floats so if you open the can carefully you can pour off essentially a de-waxed shellac. You may be able to lay a coat of dewaxed shellac between waxed shellac and poly but i'm not sure how that will work i've never done it. You didn't mention the use of the project so it's hard to tell if shellac will be durable enough or not. It's a pretty tough finish as long as moisture and cleaners stay away.
  22. There can be a lot of good advice here. When you go to assemble think of each of the sides as a separate assembly. Then connect the sides together. Breaking things down into pieces makes things a LOT easier. Also each project is just a series of steps don't get lost trying to focus on step 39 when you really need to focus on step 2. After you get all the basics out of the way complex projects are just combining those basics together. If you flip through projects in the Project Journal Section of the forum there are TONS of tips in every project. Also i don't think you should ever use an auger bit in a drill press again. They aren't really meant for that. The screw on the front is meant to feed the bit and it won't stop until it goes out the other side. A drill press runs continually so once it starts it'll run away on you. They were originally meant for old hand powered bit and brace drills but are also useful in modern powered drills.
  23. Welcome, good thing you didn't end up floating down the river this year I heard the flooding got dicy in some areas. I remember setting the chuck in my drill press taking an extra try or 2 to get right. I'm not sure if yours came pre-installed but check those instructions again and make sure the chuck is installed with as little run out as possible. The RPM you are running is still really high. I almost always error on the low side for my drill press. I drill most everything at 600 rpm or lower this is 1/8" bits and up. I recently had to drop that for a tapered plug cutter but that's a different story. Most of the time slow isn't going to hurt you it'll just make things a bit slower. If you ever decide to graduate to hardwood the guy that runs valley hardwood in Dillworth is a super nice guy and humored me for a few hours one day. If you feel more comfortable with pine as you get started i get that. If you have a table saw and can rip boards I typically get some 2x10s and rip them to width. The wider 2x material is a bit more expensive but generally gets a higher grade of wood and is usually dried a bit better. Also I have better luck buying pine from the box stores and storing it for a few months before using it. It usually comes in pretty wet and should dry a bit before making indoor furniture related stuff. IIRC there is some new guy in Fargo that was specializing in urban timbers or something as well. Think they were downtown but they may not have made it, nope guess they are making it, Dakota Timber. never mind they are way up north by the dome.
  24. Hey blue, just curious how long about it took you to go from start to finish either in days worked or hours? I have some PTO i need to use or loose and I'm thinking about taking it to make either a bench or a hand tool cabinet. I don't know how i missed the live edge deadman you installed. I think that's a fantastic idea. I'm meh on live edge furniture just because i think it's a fad that is about to end but in a wood shop i think it will always fit. Ok maybe i'm just hopeful the live edge slab fad will end soon because their markup is absurd!