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Everything posted by Chestnut

  1. My confidence inn sculpting the seats is low. I have some of the routing jigs done just need to make another prototype.
  2. I'm struggling on the chairs. I don't know why but i just can't get into them.
  3. Yes there will be. Attachment of the legs at the base and top. Probably shoot for 1.5-2". I have no hard and fast plans on this. I was thinking 2 wide floating tenons. I have some pre-made stock that is near 2" wide. I think so too... the angled half laps are giving me pause though. Not an easy thing to do.
  4. *face palm* I've done that before. I made some serving trays a long time ago. I think this is the ticket.
  5. Really depends on milling. The rough state is 1"ish the boards are pretty consistent but it's from a backwoods mill. Guy knew how to run it though I'll give him that, he sawed for grade pretty well.
  6. Ahh i misunderstood your comment i get it now.. I like Bmacs idea as well Maybe I'll do a trial to see how things work out.
  7. Works to minimize blotching makes color a bit lighter.
  8. Thought about this but the end grain would create issues and the lumber is seriously cheap like practically free. My other concern is 3/4" thick top on a 42" span. I wasn't sure if there would be enough strength there. The way the legs are designed it doesn't leave a lot of options for aprons. I suppose i could do 1 to 2 intermediate supports like Marc's knockdown trestle table. Both situations are going to e face grain and edge grain glue. All end grain will point out the end of the table. Think of it like 2 tops glued together to add thickness.
  9. Solid tables no gaps between boards? I'd either do 2x12s or plywood. Plywood is tricky because I'm assuming you want like a ~28" wide table and that doesn't fit real well with 48" wide sheets. Beings that it's just a wedding you could probably get away with 24" plus edge banding though. 1x12s are goign to be too flimsy and likely to cup or distort. I've worked with them in the past and they never seemed to stay flat. I don't think it matters 1 lick where you get them pine isn't dried low enough to prevent movement after purchase. Just my opinion.
  10. I have the dining table I'm goign to make for my sister. Unfortunately the lumber that is slated to be used for this project is just too thin for the top. I wanted to get some advise or feedback on gluing up 2 layers of material to turn 3/4" thick material in to 1_1/2" thick material. My plan is to do an under bevel that will disguise the glue line from view when standing or most angles other than strait on. My concern is that there will be some stability issues with gluing material together like this. I'm not sure if i should glue up a bunch of boards (A) to the thickness i want and then treat them like they are 8/4 lumber, or If i should do something different . My other thought is to stagger the seams (B) so a seam on the top surface doesn't match a seam on the lower surface. The image below might help clarify. Thoughts?
  11. So I'm running a bit late for something of this size, but here goes nothing. My mom informed me that a great Christmas gift for my sister would be a new dining table. My sister's kitchen is very small and is dominated by a 78" x 44" monster dining table that they were able to get for free. My sister apparently has wanted to ask me to make something for a long while but reportedly was always too sheepish to ask. The table area in their kitchen is around 9' x 6' but also includes the main walkway from their primary exterior door and the rest of the house. So my mom did the leg work got me to agree to the table and helped my sister get dimensions. The big thing wanted is a table around the size of 48" x 32". This should be a good sized table for the family of 4. The above is my idea that she thought looked nice. So I'm going to move forward with this plan. I haven't decided If I'm goign to do half laps or bridle joints for the legs or just do regular M&T.
  12. How did you measure the MC of the slab? A pin meter set on the surface is only measuring the surface moisture. You'd need to drive pins deep to get a good reading, also the reading should be towards the center of the slab not the ends. The ends are not sealed and that's why it's cracking at the ends, well in addition to the pith being included. If you have a pin less meter they tend to be able to measure deeper into the board. Also wasn't mentioned when the slab was cut. If it was this summer and it was outside until now it's not as dry as you think it is and I agree moisture could be causing those spots.
  13. The factor that causes movement is the difference in expansion or shrinkage between the radial direction inside the board and the tangential. Radial is the change in diameter of the log and tangential is the change along the growth rings. This is often expressed as a ratio. The closer to 1 of the ratio the more stable the wood is going to be. Also the lower the percentage of shrinkage in either direction the more stable the wood will be and the less it will change size. If the ratio is 1 and the percentage is 15% it'll move a lot but would in theory be stable. Wood is natural and theory goes out the window so don't count on that. Some common hardwoods are screen shot below from wood database. Cherry and Oak are on the more unstable size with TRs of 1.9 & 2.2 Walnut is quite stable as is Mahogany. Despite walnut having a low TR it's higher shrinkage tend to give it a worse reputation as far as stability is concerned when compared to Mahogany. Mahogany is well known for being a very stable wood. Below are the SPF softwoods with WRC included for comparison. In conclusion it's not clearly cut and dry this is also a small sample but on average softwoods have lower shrinkage numbers and better TR ratios. Like everything that depends on the species and most importantly how the log is sawn. From my under standing spruce is more common in smaller boards like 2x4s and it's specs reflect the reality that those boards move a lot more. Fir is more stable and has better properties all around which is why it's more common in larger lumber. This is all regional dependent. SE everything is likely to be SYP west coast is likely to be fir. This is all information learned from listening/reading Shannon Rodgers. Lumber Industry Update has a lot of good information on all things wood though it's from a single person with their bias in it so i can't say that i have multiple sources and multiple perspectives. I shouldn't have included Mahogany, that wood is very well known for it's superior stability.
  14. This reminds me I have to flatten my old workbench... .
  15. Chestnut

    Spoke Shaves

    I've ran into curves that were too tight for the convex spoke shave . I don't have my OSS set up so i don't really use it and resort to other measures. I feel like i should buy the flat bottomed now to try and understand what I'm missing.
  16. Chestnut

    Spoke Shaves

    Yes, A LV one with the convex curved bottom. I use it more than i thought i would. I use it on anything concave curved. You can use it on small strait parts that have curves leading in or out. I've found many times where some curves were tighter than the plane could handle. I thought about getting the flat bottomed but after using the convex one I haven't really found a need as it works flat and convex surfaces just fine.
  17. Bucking the trend. Table saw isn't that important. It's a good tool but you can do good work without it. I can't think of a single operation the table saw can do that i couldn't manage with another tool. Yes some of those operations are a bit faster with the table saw. Track saws are an awesome convenience when it comes to working sheet goods. I built an entire set of kitchen cabinets with a track saw as my main and only saw for casework. My table saw was right there the whole time. lifting and moving full sheets of ply onto a table saw can be difficult and dangerous. Breaking them down is pretty important hence circular saw or track saw.
  18. If the frown looks the best go with that. I think it could be heavily debated which is best and no real answer would be had.
  19. Chestnut

    Twin Turbo Vise

    Man that looks awesome. Seems like it was a pretty easy install. The jaws look far larger than your previous vise. I know Andy mentioned something in the install video about checking for resistance, have you done that? Mine gets delivered Thursday. I"m excited to use it. I'm going to have to figure out where on my bench I'm going to place it. My options are either in the middle or on the end opposite my tail vise.
  20. Ooo i hadn't thought of that. That's a good idea... I'm gonna borrow that. Thanks!
  21. From my very very limited experience with a sauna, i though the wood was supposed to be unfinished. My parents have a sauna in their house and the wood is unfinished. I'd use a card scraper to remove the bulk of the finish and a sander to clean up the rest.
  22. Oh yeah never thought about that. The stuff i make with plugs I usually run a cord inside by taking the power strip apart so I don't have to pass the plug, This way I can keep the hole small. But that doesn't work if people want to use their own stuff with plugs and what not.
  23. Chestnut

    Twin Turbo Vise

    I watched the installation video today and it appears to be pretty easy to install. I emailed Mr. Klein about not needing my mounting brackets and 3 hours later received a shipment notification. Have you had a chance to get your vise mounted and running yet?
  24. Just out of curiosity what do you drill holes in that you need 1 hp for? I don't really use my drill press for more than a 1" forstner.