Chestnut

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Everything posted by Chestnut

  1. General Finishes Arm R Seal or Minwax Wipe On Poly, 4 coats would be what I'd shoot for. I'd set drinks strait on it no coasters and never flinch. If that's epoxy in the center you'll want to sand it to a pretty high grit to get it to look good under any finish.
  2. Chestnut

    Wallaba

    Never heard of it. Personally I wish that they'd just use Cherry, maple, or Walnut. It'd probably be cheaper and they'd be using a domestic hardwood that is unlikely to become trade listed. I never really liked the look of the bubinga they used any way so in my opinion this could be a step forward.
  3. I have my bulk plywood stood perfectly vertical in my garage and then strapped in place. It's a good place to store it as all I do is park cars in there. I personally find that a sheet good cart would occupy more space than it'd save. Unless you pushed the sheet goods around your shop out of the way of what ever tool you needed to use. Small chunks og ply float around the shop and get used for random spaces or test pieces and then tossed. Sheet goods are a PITA My shop is not in my garage. I also have some ply stored in a 16x12 shed in my backyard but that is more long term storage as it's a PITA to get sheets up there and back.
  4. I like that, though i'm not sure how well that will work attached to a 1hp DC that i'm guessing uses 4" hoses?
  5. Oh yeah that'll work great for sure. Heck that pictured thein baffle will separate quite a bit of fine chips as well and even some dust. I assumed when you were talking about lathe stuff you wanted a bigger dust canister than a 5gal pail.
  6. I've built a thein baffle and they work but it's awfully fiddly. The place where the thein baffle doesn't work as well is on the fines. Figuring out the diameter needed for a 3hp cyclone might be tricky. Making one from a trashcan might be a bit to big. There is a super dust deputy XL that has larger pots that may work better for a 3hp collector. but i think it's a bit more expensive as well. https://www.woodcraft.com/products/oneida-air-systems-molded-super-dust-deputy-xl-cyclone?via=573621bd69702d0676000002%2C576455d369702d2f2f0013a2%2C5764562369702d3c42000be9
  7. There are trash can lind seperators that will work well for big chips. https://www.amazon.com/WOODRIVER-Trash-Can-Cyclone-Lid/dp/B0035YD23K
  8. How does this compare to the Oneida cyclone? Oneida has one for a 3hp collector but i'm not sure how it compares price wise and if it comes with a collection bin. Make sure that anything on the cyclone or collection bin seals extremely well any leaks on the bin will cause the cyclone to overload the filter with fines.
  9. Chestnut

    more power!

    More power is great. My house had a 100 amp 20 space panel when i moved in and it was full. I upgraded to a 200 amp service with 42 spaces and life seems great. I really don't understand how a new 3,000 sq ft house was able to be built with a 20 space 100 amp panel in the 90s.
  10. Yep that is how I'm reading it. Don't have to worry about toxic compounds if you don't add anything to the surface of the wood. Wood is cellulose and isn't classified as a toxic substance for ingestion. Cellulose is added to food products as filler after all. To put a finish on that will degrade quickly and never last through a wash, is just begging for negative product feedback. Trying to educate the consumer on finish reapplication isn't going to be easy or will turn away customers. I'd use a hardwood that would hold up well for a good many years and would take well to sanding to a high grit. Hard maple, cherry, or some other small pore hardwood would be my choice.
  11. Did you try opposite sides of the blade to see if the blade was warped at all? As in leave the dial indicator stationary and rotate the blade 360 degrees and see if the reading changes.
  12. If you want to wipe on with a cotton rag get a wiping poly (Wipe on Poly, Uncolored danish oil or Arm R Seal). Brushing poly is difficult to apply with a brush let alone a rag. Interesting I've had some microfiber cloths that were terribly linty. I've had some that were ok though.
  13. I'm not sure why unfinished is impossible. Hardwoods that are sanded to a high grit will have surface properties similar to a finished piece but you'll never have to maintain anything. Where I live in the US I have yet to see a wooden kids toy's that had a finish, unless they are painted. Bee's wax and mineral oil will require maintenance, if this were my business i wouldn't want to deal with the inevitable negative product feedback. It'd be what I'd use for my own stuff but a consumer isn't goign to adhere to refreshing the finish regularly.
  14. They both applied the same to me. I just picked based on the color I was looking for.
  15. This winter has been so warm i began to wonder if I'd have to start worrying about termites or cockroaches. After the last 2 days we should be good....
  16. I don't know that it got above zero up here. My shop got a bity chilly dropped all the way down to 62 degrees.
  17. Taken as such. I agree spraying would be the best, that's a hard suggestion to a novice that doesn't have spray equipment though. This is one of those difficult situations where advice to take the piece to a professional may be the fastest and most cost effective.
  18. I'd vote unfinished as that is how most of my wooden toys were when I was a kid. There are products but I'm no chemist so i have zero idea what is going to be classified as a "toxic compound" This is made more confusing by the fact that water can be a toxic compound in a high enough dosage. If you can get a list of compounds they test for check the SDS of any finishes to make sure the finish does not contain that compound. Osmo is a well regarded finish, possibly roubio monocoat.
  19. I really wish i could help you, General finishes makes good products, but i never had them available to me when I did most of my gel stain experimentation. I usually used Varathane and Minwax and bought the tiny 2oz containers. Do you have a small board that you can do some tests on so you don't have to sand down a large piece of furniture each time? I'm not sure if you can contact the person that made the piece and see if they have a scrap from that project or a scrap that is from similar wood that they could supply you if you don't have a test piece available. Ben Moore stain is an exterior product that is geared towards decks and what not. This is why i personally don't like using the word stain. It doesn't really convey all of the details behind the products. The marketing departments of these finishing companies are making things more confusing lumping too many products under 1 name. An exterior stain is a film forming finish that has a pigment similar to paint in it this stain is designed to sit on the surface. Interior stains have a finer pigment that absorbs into the wood or sits more thinly on the surface. While they are both called stain they are as similar as apples and zebra.
  20. That's a dang fine looking drill press. I really like your mobile mount for it. Nice and WIDE!!!!
  21. I agree with Wtnhighlander above. The finely sanded surface is goign to absorb less reducing your blotching. I've also in the past had good luck with a sanding sealer (Varathane and Minwax offer products by this name and are essentially the same) reducing the amount of blotching. It WILL make the stain lighter in color. This will require coats of stain and it might be best to use a gel stain. IIRC most stain companies that make liquid stain make the same color in a gel (or similar). Make sure to follow the directions of the sanding sealer. If you sanded the wood to a higher grit then their recommendation for sanding after application use the higher grit. The best results come from taking your time. Be patient and make sure to give plenty of drying time between coats. I wouldn't worry about wearing out the wood or sanding so much taht something bad will happen. The boards appear to be quite thick. The only adverse effects from sanding are thinning out the material, and it'll take a LOT of sanding to do that. You are tackling a project that isn't easy by any standard so being frustrated isn't out of order but you are doing a good job. If you feel like you can navigate an aerosol can spray able poly shades (https://www.minwax.com/wood-products/one-step-stain-and-finishes/minwax-polyshades-aerosol) is a decent option to add some more color. Do this after stain but before clear. I will advise to only use this product out side. If you do decide to go this route less is more. Spraying on thin coats multiple times is far better than spraying on too thick and getting a run or uneven color. I don't advise that either the pitch and sap can be hard on chimneys and even lead to chimney fires... pine is best left inside walls While i agree with the sentiment it's best to deal with what you have and try and make the best of the situation. It's possible to get a passable result.
  22. Does it collapse the flex hose a lot? Have you tried it adapted down to a 2.5" house? The promotional material makes it seem like it pulls as much vacuum as a shop vac but moves far far more air volume. Be careful with tape measures and dentures near that beast.... I really wish i could just drop in and see how that performs. I've always been interested in that unit.
  23. @wtnhighlander Brings up a good point. Download speed is not the same as upload speed. Being able to watch netflix doesn't mean that you have enough speed to upload many large images before the connection times out. Try with 2 small images first then see how it goes? Most ISP have like 30 Mbps down and only 1 mbps up (this is an example your numbers will vary) upload is usually much MUCH slower. There is a good chance if you have a solid 4g connection that your phone service is faster.
  24. If you do a pail, do one of the drywall mud types with a lid. Attach the lid to the bottom and then stick the pail on the lid. Should make getting in and out easy. If you do an enclosed space yeah make sure that you use DC in that enclosed space for safty reasons obviously. If it's easy to take on and off the times that you don't need under table DC just don't install the pail. I like traditional DC vs a shop vac for router stuff. The higher volume of air seems to do a better job of grabbing the dust than a shop vac does.